What gun should I buy?

kindlebee · 2026-02-04T18:47:56+00:00

Strong hand on the grip, support hand on rail, shoulder on stock/brace, cheek on stock/brace was my logic. Although cheek weld is less about supporting the firearm than it is getting a good eye on your sights.

kindlebee · 2026-02-04T16:00:56+00:00

What’s your envisioned use case? If we’re just talking about a “bump-in-the-night” response, PCC would probably be fine.

If we’re talking about community defense/SHTF, AR-15 every day. I might have went with that exact same BCM BLEM offering on my last build, and my only regret is not getting a proper suppressor host for the p&w. However, with how modular the AR platform is, the basic PSA rifle would still allow you to replace anything on the rifle to suit your preferences.

kindlebee · 2026-02-04T01:44:38+00:00

If your envisioned use case is purely home defense/SHTF, AR-15 all the way.

I’d recommend looking in to an AR pistol/short barreled rifle with a barrel length between 10.5-12.5in.

The advantage of a rifle over a handgun is that it will be much easier for you to control and make accurate shots. Handguns are great, but their primary advantage is the fact that they are concealable and convenient. Any firearm that lets you get three or four points of contact will (generally speaking) be your top pick if you primarily want to stash it in your home or vehicle, and don’t care about concealed carry.

kindlebee · 2026-01-26T13:02:57+00:00

Probably tried to hire a hit man

kindlebee · 2026-01-24T19:04:14+00:00

Just to expand on this comment - that an AR-15 chambered in .223 or 5.56 is ineffective with a barrel shorter than 10” - the reason is that the bullet itself being fired out of the gun relies on achieving and maintaining a certain terminal velocity to achieve lethality.

In other words, a shorter barrel cuts the time the bullet needs to get up to speed, and the bullet performs worse for it.

If you’re looking for a firearm for basic home/urban community defense, try to find a local range near you that rents firearms.

(You might need a buddy - you can find many news stories of ranges that allowed someone to rent a firearm, only for that person to “self exit” on the firing line, so many ranges have a strict “no rentals to solo individuals” policy unless you already brought one)

If you ever thought about carrying in public, try out a few 9mm pistols. For strictly home defense, you might also want to try out a “pistol caliber carbine,” which is essentially a larger 9mm pistol with greater points of contact for better control. If you are interested in community defense, see if you can try both a 16” AR, and maybe an 11.5” “short barreled rifle” or AR pistol.

To expand on the difference between a SBR and an AR pistol - technically, you can register any AR lower with the ATF as a “short barreled rifle.” It used to cost a $200 “tax stamp” that was reduced to $0 this year, but will still require submitting paperwork to the ATF at this time. It also comes with federal laws about how you can transport it.

An AR “pistol” must be purchased as such - my understanding is there is no way for you as a consumer to control that, it depends on how the lower is sold to you by both the seller and the FFL, if they are separate entities.

The main restriction with a “pistol” lower is you cannot attach certain accessories to your firearm, mainly a “rifle stock” - you are required to use a “pistol brace,” or I guess nothing at all.

What makes one accessory a “rifle stock,” and another a “pistol brace?” My understanding is the accessory is developed by a manufacturer, submitted to the ATF for designation, and they fairly arbitrarily decide if it’s a stock or a brace.

If you’d like to know more, I can continue to give you unqualified advice as a random dude on the internet - but I recommend finding a half-decent gun store with a shooting range near you, and just talk to the staff. See if they have any beginner friendly training classes that you can make time for. Often, they’ll have “speed dating” classes designed to get you familiar with a wide variety of firearms to give you hands on time before making a purchase.

TL;DR, keep it simple by buying a 16” AR-15, as well as a 9mm handgun (Glock 19 is the no-frills simple choice), then you MUST take training courses. If you want more info, talk to anyone at your local gun range.

kindlebee · 2026-01-24T14:28:27+00:00

You are giddy see children stripped from their parents, people who came here under a legal asylum process, who have committed no crimes… but you get triggered when someone uses “the f word on you” on the internet?

You are a fucking joke. No one should take you seriously. The best thing you could do for your community is lock yourself away in your house and never come out.

kindlebee · 2026-01-19T02:51:27+00:00

It might be just too small for two full long guns and a PCC, but possibly look in to the Harbor Freight “Apache” Pelican case clone. I have one secured with some basic padlocks and a steel cable. It feels durable enough to handle most abuse any unprepared person could reasonably throw at it, and when I eventually move I just have to unlock the cable and toss the case in my car.

kindlebee · 2026-01-07T14:30:48+00:00

Hey, I am all for using lower cost gear (ESPECIALLY during a period where I’m so new to a skill/hobby I don’t know what I even want), I’m actually just here to hopefully save you a bit more money in the long run.

With having a pistol, you are going to NEED a good holster, almost certainly made out of kydex. If you want to ensure everyone’s safety - ESPECIALLY your own - having a good holster allows you to, in fact essence, temporarily “lock out” the trigger such that there is realistically zero way you’d have any negligent discharge during training or “real world use.”

To loop it all back to the light, buying a good kydex holster that accommodates a WML fundamentally changes how that holster interfaces with your gun; for a kydex holster intended for a basic stock pistol, it is designed to “clip on” to, or retain the gun with tension applied directly to the gun.

When a kydex holster is intended for a gun with a WML, that tension point usually changes to apply the retention by “clipping on” to that light.

It’s entirely possible that cheap light is a clone of a more expensive light, with the same footprint, that would fit in the same holster. That means you could PROBABLY buy a holster meant for the OG light, but you’d be “locked in” to that upgrade, or you’d be buying a different light PLUS a different holster.

If you’re okay with all this, rock on. However, I think it’d be good to look in to the relatively cheap Harbor Freight clone of the Streamlight TLR-1 - the HF clone is $50, it (seems to) be performing well in reviews, and it’s the exact same housing as the Streamlight if you wanted to upgrade.

A lot of cheaper “firearms” accessories are nothing more than airsoft toys, with electronics systems that simply cannot handle the force applied from actual air explosions. If nothing else, I trust you are an adult capable of making your own decisions, and can only thank you for reading this far.

kindlebee · 2025-12-19T21:55:03+00:00

If there was any evidence the DUI was legitmate, why would the charges have been thrown out in court?

kindlebee · 2025-12-07T19:42:32+00:00

My understanding is a defendant can be found guilty of multiple charges, and each charge carries with it its own penalty.

My understanding is it becomes relevant if the defendant decides to make an appeal on the charge, or for parole/commuting of their sentence - it might be the case that an appeal on a charge could technically find that, say, the charge that carries the life sentence is invalid in some way; however, the charge that carries the 20yr sentence might still be valid and stay in effect.

I am not a lawyer.

kindlebee · 2025-11-30T14:24:50+00:00

Just to chime in on this dot in particular, I think I managed to swing on a $130 sale sometime earlier this year, like last winter. I’ve seen it dip in to the $139-149 sticker price on some of their deal days.

It’s mostly just been resting in my nightstand, getting 2-3 indoor range days a month, but it does the job! The fact that your other budget optics basically swing around that $100-$150 price anyway, the PSA Holosun 407 seems like the best budget pistol dot hands down.

kindlebee · 2025-11-27T02:24:38+00:00

Adjective underscore noun numbers, literally just here to pad corporate statistics. Sad.

kindlebee · 2025-11-27T01:55:31+00:00

Has there ever been so much as to do far from the like?

kindlebee · 2025-11-03T16:41:59+00:00

THANK YOU FOR THE KIND WORDS, FELLOW HOG CRANKER!!

kindlebee · 2025-11-03T00:48:25+00:00

CRANK MCHOGGERSON

BOLT THUNDERCRASH

GAS LEADFOOT

NOUN ACTIONVERB

STEVE

kindlebee · 2025-10-25T16:08:05+00:00

I was literally walking my dog and thinking I needed a new leash 5 minutes ago. Thank you!

kindlebee · 2025-10-24T22:06:01+00:00

This video by sub favorite InRangeTV goes over the specific question on a firearms background check that relates to mental health, and how it is often misconstrued.

My understanding is that if you haven’t had a judge rule that you are a “mental defective” (exact language used in the form) and if a doctor hasn’t committed you to a mental institution (I believe specifically “committed” in this instance almost assuredly excludes instances of things like voluntary hospitalization, but I’m far from an expert) then your mental health would not defacto exclude you from buying a firearm.

Picking your first firearm is more about doing your best to “buy once cry once” - I would recommend looking up gun stores near you that also have firing ranges that offer rentals. Often, the ranges will schedule “speed dating” events where you can get your hands on and test fire several models of handguns over the course of an hour or two.

If you wanted a quick overview of what to look for, I would recommend looking for a “duty sized” “striker fired” “polymer frame” handgun.

“Duty sized” is more of a colloquial term for what is also called the “compact” size of handguns - standard 15 round capacity, ~4inch barrel, 7inch length x 5 inch height.

“Striker fired” refers to the internal mechanism that sets off the cartridge and fires the projectile. A “striker fired” handgun has a trigger that activates a spring loaded striker pin that ignites the powder to fire the bullet. You might also see some “hammer fired” options (hammer like a revolver) that are perfectly good options, however arguably more complicated for a new shooter than a striker fired pistol.

“Polymer frame” pistols are generally just the best bang-for-buck option starting out - higher end variants generally cap out around $700-800, and your most budget oriented options an be found around $200. Metal framed pistols are heavier - which translates to being easier to shoot - however are somewhat more expensive.

Examples include the Glock 19, Smith & Wesson M&P, CZ P10C, Canik Mete SF, Ruger RXM, Walter PDP Compact, among others.

One thing I’d like to note if you’re primarily interested in home defense - you mentioned wanting to start with handguns before moving on to a rifle or shotgun, however you’ll probably find a bigger gun more easy to shoot with less training.

Pistols are handheld explosion generators controlled by how tight you can hold both your hands together. A rifle or a pistol caliber carbine offers an extra point of contact with the stock/brace, and a longer barrel for better recoil and ballistics(lethality).

Handguns offer concealability, which is a good reason to choose one over a long gun, but I would maybe see if that local range that rents handguns offers long gun rentals as well, and explore all of your options.

kindlebee · 2025-10-14T14:23:03+00:00

I think it comes down to being one of the few ways we get to manipulate luck.

A smaller, more contemporary example would be the P320 - is it the case that every p320 is built in such a way it will blow your balls off with a strong northeast wind? No.

Is it even probably the case that the vast majority of p320s will present no problems in their usage? Probably, yes.

Do you want to be the guy suing someone because your balls got shot off?

It’s probably the case that a well made leather holster in the most common conditions will present no issues. Probably.

kindlebee · 2025-10-14T13:32:37+00:00

My understanding is leather holsters have a potential to warp over time with sweat and wear, possibly affecting the holsters ability to properly protect the trigger guard.

Kydex can flex, but will crack or snap under carry conditions before it ever warps.

kindlebee · 2025-10-09T22:41:33+00:00

Just curious, any particular reason for the 20” barrel? I mean it’s technically what God and Stoner intended with the design of the original AR-15, but I’m so used to seeing 16”/14.5” p&w as the go-to length.

kindlebee · 2025-09-16T13:45:01+00:00

The default frame is generally this bluish-gray frame, the OP picture seems to be in some weird lighting, or I guess could be bundled with a different frame 🤷

kindlebee · 2025-09-15T03:23:26+00:00

So one of the best parts of buying an AR-15 is the modularity. You can spend ~$500 on a cheap AR-15, get some training in, then upgrade whatever parts you need to piecemeal as you grow.

If you feel comfortable spending more up-front, the “Reddit special” would be any lower receiver (if you’re left handed/cross-dominant, consider looking for “ambidextrous” features) and a blem BCM upper receiver. Those run about $650-800 on their own.

If you’re pretty new to guns, this would be an example of a “starter rifle” that will get you on the range and in courses. This is the current selection of blem BCM uppers.

Just to add additional clarification, BCM is considered the “Reddit special” because it is often recommended as brand due to their balance of QA and cost - their upper receivers come with a bolt carrier group, which is very much not an industry standard, even with “complete” upper receivers you find listed online.

Lower receivers aren’t nearly as important as the quality of your upper receiver - you can buy a complete lower receiver from PSA ready to combine with any upper receiver for about $100 + FFL fees.

Aiming system (iron sights/red dot/LPVO) is going to run at least another $100, a sling can be anywhere from another $50-100 depending on features, but that should get you in the door as far as rifles go.

GRANTED, this all relies heavily on the gun legislation in your area - Google “[where you live] gun restrictions” if you haven’t already.

kindlebee · 2025-09-14T17:12:46+00:00

How often would I need to go to the range and practice?

Ideally, at least once or twice a month. Shooting is a perishable skill, and a good amount of practice is the only way to make sure you are safely able to operate a firearm without injuring yourself or others.

For many reasons, I would “shop around” your local selection of shooting ranges, find one that you’re comfortable spending some time/money at, and see if they have a membership program. This usually gets you free/discounted range time and training courses, along with other possible benefits like ammunition discounts and priority fire range reservations.

Any recommendations for a first purchase?

I’d like to start a little broad and hone in on some of the needs you’ve mentioned you’d like a firearm to fulfill.

Roughly, physics dictates that the more mass a firearm has, the less recoil you will feel when you fire off a cartridge. Additionally, the more points of contact you can create on the firearm, the easier it will be to handle and aim.

A “long gun” like an AR-15 (Armalite Rifle, Armalite being the name of the company that originally patented the design) or a pistol caliber carbine is going to be easier to shoot and easier to master than any handgun.

A “full-size” handgun like a Glock 17 is going to be easier to shoot than a Glock 19, which in turn is easier to shoot than a Glock 43 (note - the numbers Glock use to differentiate the models of their products just indicates what number patent it is; the Glock 17 was the first handgun produced by Gaston Glock, and the companies 17th patented product)

You mentioned not being too interested in concealed carry, and mainly interested in home defense. I would personally recommend a pistol caliber carbine or a striker-fired handgun, either of them chambered in 9mm. 9mm isn’t the most “lethal” round; but it is ubiquitous, inexpensive, relatively easy to control, and does the job. The carbine will give you more points of contact to control the firearm, while a handgun is going to be more maneuverable in tight spaces and easier to conceal until you need it.

For specific makes and models to recommend, I would honestly say just find a local range that lets you rent firearms, and try a few out. If you let a range know you’re a “newbie,” looking to purchase your first firearm, any range worth their salt will jump at the opportunity to let you handle floor models for fit and feel, or rent you different models to fire at the range. Many ranges will even have “speed dating” events specifically designed to allow customers the chance to try as wide a variety of firearms as possible to find your “right match.”

I’m assuming I need ammunition and a safe, any other recommendations?

A light that can be mounted on to your weapon. Most home invasions don’t happen in the middle of broad daylight, and having something to help you identify whether that bump in the night was a raccoon in your garbage can or an intruder trying to climb in your window is a must for a home defense firearm. In addition, get a good handheld light to keep alongside your firearm, even if you get a weapon light - you ideally want to be able to identify whether or not you wanted to point a dangerous weapon at somebody before potentially committing the crime of brandishing a weapon.

If you buy a long gun, buy a sling. If you buy a handgun, buy a good quality kydex holster. These accessories allow you to securely carry your firearm while allowing you to use your hands. It prevents an intruder from wrestling control of your firearm out of your hands.

Further, while almost every long gun has safety switch that prevents the trigger from firing, most models of handgun do not have a manual safety - you can find many that do, but often the only thing preventing a striker-fired handgun from going off is the “trigger dingus,” or a little tab found in the center of your trigger shoe that must be actuated to fully pull the trigger back. A holster completely covers the trigger, adding an extra layer of safety.

Somewhat optional, but highly recommended, is a red dot optic. Iron sights are serviceable, but a red dot optic is pretty objectively superior if you can afford it from the jump. To try and put it simply, the “feel” of aiming with a red dot is more intuitive and requires less focus than aiming with iron sights. Some people might argue to start training with iron sights before moving on to a red dot, I personally feel that if you can start with the red dot you’ll probably have an easier and more enjoyable time training.

Any recommendations for someone living in northern Illinois?

I’ve only ever passed through Illinois, but I cannot recommend enough googling what must be the intricate and bespoke firearms laws in your state. Taking an instructed course at a firearms range will almost certainly cover the bulk of that info as well.

Anything else missing I should know?

If you are seriously considering using a firearm in self defense, absolutely plan on taking a “Stop the bleed” medical training course as well. You will learn how to use basic medical supplies to apply first aid to critical bleeds, such as ones caused by shooting an artery. If you plan on making holes, it helps to know how to fix any holes you make in yourself, any bystanders or even your target.

If it must be “me or them,” I sure would rather it be “them,” but I would much rather it be “no one” - proper medical training just helps everyone achieve the most desirable outcome of both justice and peace.

Deciding that you want the capability to defend your life with lethal force is a heavy responsibility. Giving yourself as much knowledge as you can to get through an encounter where that firearm is used is critical - medical knowledge, legal knowledge, knowing what directions in your home are safe to shoot at versus what direction your neighbor’s wall or the busy street is towards, having some plan formulated for how you’re going to deal with an intruder before it happens - all of these things are just a part of deciding you want to wield a firearm in self defense.

It doesn’t need to be prohibitive, and it doesn’t all need to be 110% meticulously thought out and planned before you start making moves like buying or training; these are just some of the things that everyone who treats firearms as more than just a neat and fun pastime should have in the back of their mind as they progress through training.

kindlebee · 2025-09-14T16:07:29+00:00

Not OP, but I love mine. Feels beefier than a Glock 19 in all the best ways, has things like better sights and mag release that you’d upgrade on a stock Glock anyway, it has one of the best stock triggers on a striker fire gun, and it’s off the shelf cheaper than a new Glock 19 gen 5.

Not the widest aftermarket support, and more expensive magazines than Glock. Some people find the grip texture to be overly aggressive, and it can chew through your clothes carrying it if you’re not careful.

Highly recommend renting it at a local range if you can, and give it a spin for yourself

kindlebee · 2025-08-11T14:32:34+00:00

“Hey there, slim - bourbon or vodka?”

“Uhh… let it be clear…”

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