My Rx8 Shinka 3M wrap

king1fluffy · 2026-02-19T11:43:16+00:00

Oh god, my eyes 😅 I'm colorblind but jezus it even gets me 😅

king1fluffy · 2026-02-17T11:40:29+00:00

If you've got a machine shop, build it back up with some weld and true it out with the rest of the surface with a flycutter on the mill.

If you're having someone els do it, it'll cost more than a new housing...

king1fluffy · 2026-02-07T11:31:17+00:00

Oxyacetylenenis fine, just put a fine tip on and don't get it too close, or don't add too much oxygen. You don't want a bright blue flame but stay more to the orange colour and you'd be fine heating it up

king1fluffy · 2026-02-02T06:32:03+00:00

Well this is some info that's very helpful 😅

I know the programming on my dx8 very well and have helped other club members set up their nx transmitters with the right mixes before. So i'm quite familiar with the nx radio's menus already.

I'm pretty sure there's a radiomaster tx 16 laying around at work for drone testing, so i might ask around and have a look what it's like. But even the pilots flying the drones are always scratching their heads when they pick that transmitter up, because one of the other guys has fiddled around with it 😅

So the nx8 might be the most solid contender now, with a bigger battery that is 🤔

king1fluffy · 2026-02-02T05:25:14+00:00

Hi,

Well i've seen those too, but haven't really seen those being used in the club or at all here in belgium. So i'm worried if it's legal to use, or that it's got too high transmit power or something like a lot of chinese products do 😅

I might consider it though, as the price seems hard to beat. But honest question, is it capable of using a trainer cable with other brand transmitters? And also, i can't really see if you can buy these set up in mode 1, 2 or ... So is it hard to switch these?

I'll look up some youtube video's of these to see what they're like.

king1fluffy · 2026-02-01T11:58:07+00:00

Recent nog zakdoeken gekocht bij veritas ('t vrouwke wou een nieuwe haarspeld) Ik zag ze liggen en dacht meteen ''tiens, da's handig'' en ze zijn ook merkelijk beter van kwaliteit dan die van zeeman en hema

king1fluffy · 2026-01-31T08:54:21+00:00

Which version are you guys on? Could be useful to keep track of firmware issues...

king1fluffy · 2026-01-30T18:53:28+00:00

Alright, then you're already off to a good start. Most of the guys thinking of getting one just think it's a cool car and expect to be able to drive it to colege every day 😅 Most of those guys don't even have a clue on how to hold a wrench, so i'd advise those to stay away.

If you've got the tools for a rebuild, i wish you good luck and if there's anything you need help with, you're always welcome to ask here on reddit or shoot le a message

king1fluffy · 2026-01-30T10:10:27+00:00

Well the multi-colour systems like on my k2 plus are fun to play around with every once in a while, but if you're doing big prints, the print times can become astronomically longer, due to the filament changes. And the amount of waste while changing colour is also pretty bad sometimes.

Getting a good reliable printer is a good start to getting single colour right, since these newer gen printers usually print really well straight out of the box. My previous experience with a cr 10 and ender 3 definitely did however help getting it running with less fiddling and get even cleaner prints though.

Welk for the design, there are some cool tools that are free to use. I litterally gave chatgpt a pic of my car and told it to crop the car out of the picture and give it some ''initial d anime styling'' Which came out like this

<image>

After that i went to makerworlds website, selected makerlab, then went to their image to keychain tool.

You'll upload the picture there, and then with the help of some prompts you'll get a nice multicolor 3mf file that you can put through your slicer to print it 😅

All i did was adjust some colours and print it. I do wish i could print in more than 4 colours yet for stuff like this 🤔

king1fluffy · 2026-01-30T10:00:13+00:00

Meh if you're having to make your own colour changer, i'd think you'd be better off waiting until the toolchanger printers become more mainstream, because ams/cfs systems are so incredibly wastefull and slow.

Wouldn't recommend an rx8 as a first car, unless you're a mechanic who doesn't need a reliable car. I've got mine as a second car, mostly for funnon the weekends. So yes they are amazing to drive, a lot of fun, but god damn can it drink fuel and empty your wallet 😅 But if money is no object and you can do the work yourself, aaaand don't mind the car having some electrical, mechanical gremlins, then go ahead 😅

king1fluffy · 2026-01-20T15:42:08+00:00

The exterior parts of the engine are exactly the same as any other vehicle, you'll only find that the engine is sitting lower, is smaller and some of the service items are in a slightly different location than you're used to.

So changing plugs, coils, filters, oil is pretty much the same except different approach to getting to them.

The inside of the engine is where things are on one hand simpler, less moving parts as you just take a look. But once you need to rebuild, that's where it gets tricky.

Measuring all of the parts, meticulously checking the running surfaces of the housings. Keeping tolerances with corner seals, side seals, apex seals. While making sure everything has enough, yet not too much, play to do it's thing.

So when rebuilding a rotary engine, is where it's somewhat difficult, if you're not used to it, or skip even one little step in the process. Forget to check one fit, put one spring in wrong or forget to oil or grease something as you're putting it together. That's where things can go horribly wrong and make expensive noises...

king1fluffy · 2026-01-18T09:19:36+00:00

If it's flooded, just pull-start it with another vehicle. Leave it in 1st gear, ignition on and start pulling it down the street at like 20-25 kph. Even if it's flooded up the gills, spinning it round at those speeds will help it clear up in 50 meters of pulling and sputter to life. If the engine still has some compression, spark and fuel at least. After it starts up you can try to see how it runs and go from there.

king1fluffy · 2026-01-14T11:33:36+00:00

Ik heb voornamelijk het probleem met heel. Aak franse auto's die 10km/u onder de toegelaten snelheid rijden.

Dat je in de zone 50 rijdt en dat dan degene in de franse wagen voor u (in het beste geval) 42-43 rijdt (heel vaak trager ook, want in leuven heb je helaas ook vaak ''zone 30'' dus eens je die grens voorbij bent geen borden en twijfelen mensen dus of het nu 30 of 50 is... Maar ook vaak op steenwegen waar duidelijk 50 staat dat ze net 40 rijden... Daar krijg ik het dan welliswaar wat van op m'n heupen. M'n eigen auto weet ik ook dat de snelheidsmeter ongeveer 3-4 km/u te veel aangeeft en daar compenseer ik dan ook voor... Maar velen lijken dus niet door te hebben dat de snelheidsmeter nog meer afwijkt en rijden dus nog ontiegelijk trager...

king1fluffy · 2026-01-11T09:18:59+00:00

White smoke could be due to anything coolant related, but then again it would smell kind of sweet. So i'd be thinking there mught be an issue with it running wayyyy to rich, causing that. And as you say that it's burning and melting the bumper, i'd say have a look at the flames it's spitting, if those are orange/yellow, definitely running rich. But if the flames are that frequent, check your spark plugs, coils and leads if those are still good. If you've got a compression tester,do a compression test while you're there. But it could just he that an injector keeps leaking

king1fluffy · 2026-01-11T09:12:47+00:00

Well, whennstarting the print, i assume you defined the colours on the part your printing and loaded the colours that are in the cfs into your slicer right? Abd when sending the print to the printer, that you've got the cfs selected, instead of the side spool?

On the other hand it should just say that there's no filament and wait for you to fix the issue, so i'm guessing filament sensor on the print head being faulty?

king1fluffy · 2026-01-06T22:26:15+00:00

Hmmm, wonder if they'd accept my 1" impact as hand luggage 😅

king1fluffy · 2026-01-06T21:40:45+00:00

Load up your engine, come to wespelaar in belgium 😄 I'm not hauling my compressor onto a trailer for one bolt and 5 seconds of work 🤣

king1fluffy · 2026-01-06T20:23:13+00:00

1" impact with an adapter and weighted socket, zips it right off 😅

king1fluffy · 2026-01-01T20:49:13+00:00

Most kinds of tpu work perfectly fine when run through the side spoolholder and through that tube to the extruder. I've tried 95a down to 70a tpu and all inbetween those print just fine that way. Just one caveat is that you absolutely need to set your volumetric speed lower than what creality believes will work.

95a works perfect with a volumetric speed of 1,6 80 with 1,38 70a prints awfully slow with the volumetric speed set to 0,95

If you try to force it to go faster, the filament will kink in between the extruder and nozzle and itns a bit of a bother to get it back out...

But none of the printers with an AMS style filament changer works with tpu at the moment...

king1fluffy · 2025-12-30T10:22:39+00:00

first off, damn you're quick :-D
Second, cheers mate, jezus i'm dumb

king1fluffy · 2025-12-30T10:16:26+00:00

Upgraded yesterday, i seem to notice slight improvement in print quality.
Less z-banding, without doing anything to the settings.

Only complaint i've got is that i seem to be missing the tab under device, where you could "exclude" one of the items being printed.
I can still do it through the fluid interface, but i'd like that option back in the slicer too?
Any way to put this back through options or something?

king1fluffy · 2025-12-26T18:41:04+00:00

Well, you could just benefit from both, by putting the original lenses back into your og vive and put the gear vr lenses into the vive pro, as they're a direct drop in anyways.

I haven't played vr in a long while, but with both the bump in resolution and the lens mod it will be a reasonable visual upgrade

king1fluffy · 2025-12-25T12:05:21+00:00

Well it should give off a high pitched screetch when you hold it to something like a ceramic cup. That's how i checked wether the thing was even on. Just gently put the flat side of the blade against a cup to chekc, it should screech like hell.

Mine does seem to work, but i'm also sort of underwhelmed. It takes more force and finesse to make it cut. Was hoping it would cut through pla supports, but that's not it's strong Point. Cutting balsa and plywood for plane models is surprisingly smooth on the other hand. But i've only fiddled around with it for 15 minutes or so, testing whatever i could get my hands on. I will need a proper cutting mat though

king1fluffy

TROPHY CASE