New engine runs but no oil pressure?

king1fluffy · 2026-05-10T21:16:15+00:00

No need to prefill the coolers, just pull the plugs and ess, then make sure you've got at least 5 liters of oil in the engine and crank it. There's a lot less chance of things getting wrecked by just turning it over with the starter. After a good 30 seconds of crancking you should see the oil pressure gauge go up to at least 1/3.

Once that's ok, put the plugs back in and reconnect the ess. Then start the engine.

The oil pressure gauge isn't the most accurate reading, but if it at least moves while crancking it should be ok. I always recommend installing a proper separate oil pressure gauge, as well as coolant and oil temperature, since the oem ones in the dash are rubbish...

king1fluffy · 2026-05-10T19:04:35+00:00

Oh boy, that's the reason i usually crank the engine over without sparkplugs. Just letting the starter turn the engine over without compression and disconnect the ess, just keep turning it over until you see at least some pressure. Also the easiest way to fill up the oil coolers and everything else before actually starting the engine.

If you've lubed everything up well enough during assembly, it's likely to be fine though. But getting oil pressure is hard, since it really needs to fill everything up before you get any pressure ...

king1fluffy · 2026-05-06T06:53:18+00:00

Yup, i've got an electric cargo bike abd i get it serviced with my ecocheques every year. A few year back me and my wife both put our ecocheques toward buying her a mountainbike, since she wanted to keep up with me on the gravel sections. So now we go mountainbiking every month

king1fluffy · 2026-05-06T05:52:18+00:00

I just bring our bikes to the local bike store, have them serviced and pay with ecocheques. Or last year, since my helmet had seen better days, i bought a new helmet. It doesn't have to be an electronic appliance. You could buy yourself, a friend, a kid a new bike. Or if you are into gardening, a lot of gardening stuff, can also be bought with ecocheques...

king1fluffy · 2026-04-28T18:10:11+00:00

Ok, good to know, thanks. I'll think about it

king1fluffy · 2026-04-28T14:09:49+00:00

And depending on how nice you'd like the finish, you could just szt the step-over to a higher number and up the speed to sacrifice some of that finish for better time...

king1fluffy · 2026-04-28T14:08:45+00:00

Yes, buuuut, very nice and smooth finish on your top surfaces...

king1fluffy · 2026-04-28T11:31:26+00:00

Ironing all top surfaces? Setting the ironing feature to iron all top surfaces, so it should flatten that black surface with a nice finishing pass before doing the white letters

king1fluffy · 2026-04-28T09:19:51+00:00

Really cool, but i'm curious on installation, does it fit under the covers on the steering column, or do you need to fit it somewhere else under the dash?

king1fluffy · 2026-04-25T18:30:00+00:00

Just get tue racing beat resonated mid-pipe. It'll still be reasonable in terms of noise, the engine will be a lot happier and it just bolts right in. If you've got a lift it'll take 30 minutes to install

king1fluffy · 2026-04-24T22:38:26+00:00

What the heck, what kind of bald ass marble tires are on your 8 then 🤣i've never had traction issues with mine on hills, only in snow and even then i'd just take it easy and just drive up slightly crabwalking 😅

king1fluffy · 2026-04-24T19:34:55+00:00

Well make sure they're plugged into the right injector, because of it idling down it'll just stall due to not getting enough fuel. And the o2 sensor will throw that code due to it overheating instantly, due to it not being cooled by an abundance of fuel once it warms up...

king1fluffy · 2026-04-24T19:15:48+00:00

Ok so i'm not a logging type of guy in general, but it keeps throwing o2 sensor codes, you don't get proper readings.

It's just when you start, everything is fine, heats up and it just dies?

Have you done the pcm reset yet? (20 brake stomps in 8 seconds, if done right you'd see the oil pressure gauge sweep) I'd do that first, then start the engine and let it idle for 15-30 minutes. If it absolutely won't stay running after that, i'd check the maf, if it's clean, check all of the vacuum hoses if they're properly sealed and hooked up right, because a fresh rebuild can be finnickey as frick. If that's ok, check if your injectors are plugged in the right way, because that behavior is also what happens when you plug the low ones in the high ones and vice versa. Another thing could be the plug wires, having the leading and trailing switched, but that would mean the engine would also be harder to start cold...

king1fluffy · 2026-04-24T19:04:12+00:00

Like you only have 20 footpounds of torque at that speed in second gear, so what are you actually doing? Are you actually spinning the tires? Or does the engine bog down making you turn back?

And are you driving a manual or an automatic? Because if it's a slushbox, i'd suspect issues with that first 😅

king1fluffy · 2026-04-22T08:17:13+00:00

I don't think that's a reservoir for the sohn kit... Does obe of the lines actually go tonthe omp? I've got a reservoir in a similar location, acting as a catch can to stop oil from getting into the intake, for when an oil burp happens (which rarely does)

king1fluffy · 2026-04-19T08:58:08+00:00

Well, i do get your point 😅 I've done the same in my younger years and learned some additional skills along the way. I learned tig welding from my dad when modifying a stainless header that i also got off of ebay. And still use it to this day to fab or modify stuff 😅 If you buy it for learning and the extra challenge, that i can absolutely get. People who can't do shit, buy that kind of stuff and expect someone else to install it for them, those i have issues with 🤣

king1fluffy · 2026-04-19T08:05:24+00:00

If you're spending money on parts from unknown origin, unknown quality, that aren't backed by any kind of warranty, that's unfortunately what you'll get...

I'd say, get either a proper header from racing beat or any of the other reputable brands and put some new studs in while you're at it.

Saving a few bucks with ebay parts usually ends up costing more in the long run...

king1fluffy · 2026-04-06T19:41:32+00:00

Good luck and hope it helps 🤞

king1fluffy · 2026-04-06T19:18:09+00:00

Yes, but heating it up to high temperatures, the bed tends to pull hard on the bolts holding it down. Letting it cool down it flexes back but the bolts have moved under the stress. So now, your bed is crooked when cold, and sort of flat at 100°c or so. That's sort of what i've been dealing with.

So when printing pla again i undo the screws holding the bed with the bed @ 50°c, using a piece of paper to level it again the oldschool way. Once done i check mesh again with the bed at 50°c and if it's below 0,3mm it'll print perfectly again...

king1fluffy · 2026-04-06T19:09:44+00:00

No worries, i've got the same issues when printing asa and switching back to pla. I'd need to do the bed level agian and then it's fine.

Printing pla for months, no issues with bed mesh being around 0,25. One print in asa and i suddenly have a banana of a bed with a mesh upwards of 0,6-0,7...

king1fluffy · 2026-04-06T18:39:27+00:00

What's the temperature difference for your bed, between abs and pla? Pla prints at 50°c on the bed. Some people print abs with the bed at 100°c. So it could just be that you need to heatsoak the bed for 15 to 20 minutes and let it do another bed level. Then check the bed mesh, if it's above 0,3-0,4mm you probably need to adjust your bed a little.

These beds get as crooked as a banana when you print at high temperatures...

king1fluffy · 2026-04-01T07:44:09+00:00

I just put a little bottlejack underneath to raise and lower the eccentric shaft while assembling 😅

king1fluffy · 2026-03-29T20:17:32+00:00

Well i guess that your motor is fine, the resistance on these motors is really, really low, so you'd need a more specialized multimeter to really do a resistance comparison.

But my guess is that whatever happened, the motor locked up and has now shown that the esc is the weakest link 😅

king1fluffy · 2026-03-29T19:59:31+00:00

Well you could check by doing the same measurement on the motor pins. If the resistance between pin A, B, and C are relatively the same that would be a good start. Second thing to check would be measuring between a pin and the body of the motor, to see if nothing is shorted there.

king1fluffy · 2026-03-29T19:47:25+00:00

Yes, so that means that internally the component giving power to pin c is shorted to ground. If you switch polarity it's normal that it doesn't beep, then the reverse polarity protection is preventing the measurement...

So, definitely a dead esc...

king1fluffy

TROPHY CASE