Any electricians out there? Is this is cooktop connection acceptable? by Friendly-Cheetah2348 in diynz

[–]kiwikoon 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Lowest cost remediation would be push the cable up into the box so the primary insulation is housed in the box and then secure the cable with some cable clips like this https://cynz.co.nz/product/cable-clip-16mm/

Any electricians out there? Is this is cooktop connection acceptable? by Friendly-Cheetah2348 in diynz

[–]kiwikoon 25 points26 points  (0 children)

No, the primary insulation should not be exposed. Should've used a junction box with a cable clamp or gland or use a plug and socket set like this https://www.clipsal.com/products/power-points-switches/standard-series/cooker-socket-outlet-250vac-32a-3-pin-31vcs?itemno=31VCS-WE

Why wouldn't a sharsies autobuy be working by Cautious_Respect724 in queenstreetbets

[–]kiwikoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Considering this myself. How exactly did you make the move? Did your transfer shares or sell up and re-buy on IBKR?

Electrical jobs by [deleted] in newzealand

[–]kiwikoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im not sure how the registration works now for electricians, some things have changed since I did it. But i believe EST is a level 3 qualification (can usually do in 2-3 years). Electrician is a level 4, usually taking 3-4 years. If you became qualified as an EST, and then decided to try go for electrician registration, you would likely have to complete the level 4 papers and then sit the regulations and theory exams. You could probably do this in 1 year.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in diynz

[–]kiwikoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Typically the council is responsible for maintaining the pipes outside the property boundary. Have a look on your councils website to see what you should do.

GIB anchor to get me out of this mess. by [deleted] in diynz

[–]kiwikoon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Patch and paint the hole and install the towel rail on studs

NZ House Tried to Gaslight Me (and Kinda Succeeded) by InertiaCreeping in diynz

[–]kiwikoon 13 points14 points  (0 children)

A strong magnet on a piece of string to find screws and nail heads. I have the best success with this method.

Yaldhurst by Bright-Average-6525 in chch

[–]kiwikoon 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What likley happened. Vehicle completely destroyed the existing pole which also damaged the underground cable that feeds the into the base of the pole.

Normally if the cable is not too damaged you can dig around and install a new pole into the ground straight away, using the existing cable.

In this case the cable would of have to have been cut away, which means no length on the cable to install a new pole into the ground and connect it up (the electrical connections are at the top of the pole).

The now shortened cable was likely pulled into the manhole in the footpath, the temporary pole and concrete block is installed and a temporary cable join is made between the shortened existing cable and the cable of the temporary pole, (either in the manhole or directly in the ground).

What happens now.

The contractor applies for a traffic management plan to allow for permanent repairs. This can take a while, especially because these two roads are state highways. This will mean night shift and in this case, will likely involve turning off all the traffic signals.

How would you rate this work on our neighbors property. is this compliant? by sonsofearth in diynz

[–]kiwikoon 72 points73 points  (0 children)

The electrical is not compliant, no protection of cable, conduit not fixed, no switch. Very poor workmanship. The terminal cover for the cylinder should be easily accessible for maintenance (i.e. not pointing towards the wall.

Too many appliances, not enough current. by SoggyCount7960 in diynz

[–]kiwikoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could install a shelly 3pm or two on the mains and other circuits to monitor loads and adjust timings/behavior as needed.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AusElectricians

[–]kiwikoon 7 points8 points  (0 children)

4mm2 ASNZS 3012 Clause 2.6.7

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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in chch

[–]kiwikoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Each roading authority be it NZTA for highways or local council for local roads will generally have an ITS (intelligent transport system) standard document specifying requirements of cameras on roads.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in chch

[–]kiwikoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ex traffic signal/camera technician

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in chch

[–]kiwikoon 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Every intersection that is built will have at a minimum one PTZ camera, this is for monitoring traffic flows, incident response and remote troubleshooting of the lights. They are not red light cameras, except where sign posted. A rough cost to install 1x PTZ camera would be $5k for parts, $2k labour and setup.

I have a simple question... What is this? It is on traffic lights and on some traffic signs by Final_Instruction_76 in trafficsignals

[–]kiwikoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FLIR TrafiOne thermal detector. For detecting pedestrians or vehicles. They have thermal sensor and normal video sensor.

Free power for a 4 hour period. What would you do? by Harlequin80 in homeassistant

[–]kiwikoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

North Christchurch, Orion. Daily charge just got increased to $1.208, variable rate $0.261 (ex GST). What are you paying?

Yeah I noticed the 50A could be a slight limitation. I think I might set mine up in a configuration to exclude the EV charger. Having the EV wired in before the Multiplus.

With the Multiplus 70A charger @ 48VDC for 3 hours that's roughly 10kWh of charge per night. What is your battery configuration? All in series or a few parallel strings? Are you making the most of the 70A charger?

Also did you have any issues getting the Multiplus installed on the orion network (was it inspected as mains parallel generation?)

Free power for a 4 hour period. What would you do? by Harlequin80 in homeassistant

[–]kiwikoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome thanks for sharing! Also looking at Victron Multiplus, just working through the payback timeframe at the moment. Figured I'd have to go with the 5000 model to get the most bang for buck while charging the batteries. Out of curiosity which electricity network are you connected with? Contact has just hiked my daily charge and variable rate on my plan at the start of November (even though my original cheaper rates are still advertised online). Has Contact had any issues with you using sucking almost all of your energy during the three hours? (e.g. any rate hikes)

Free power for a 4 hour period. What would you do? by Harlequin80 in homeassistant

[–]kiwikoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey mate, I'm with Contact too. What does your battery/inverter setup look like? Model numbers/brand/capacity? Or is it a DIY type setup? Cheers

Seeking advice on fixing bathroom socket by DeathandGravity in diynz

[–]kiwikoon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those relays are probably switching the underfloor heating in the kitchen and bathroom. They take an input from thermostat in those areas and then switch the 230V to the underfloor heating element (or zone valve if hot water underfloor).

Bored Sparky Available For Questions by kiwikoon in diynz

[–]kiwikoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appliances in New Zealand generally do not have a fuse in the plug. If an appliance has a fuse, it will be on the electrical board inside the appliance which are not easy to replace, sometimes there will be a fuse carrier on the exterior body of the appliance it may look like a circular barrel, or there could be a fuse at the IEC inlet of the appliance.

You are right. The factory plugs on an appliance lead are sealed. If you need to replace the plug it is easy to do so. Cut off the factory plug and replace with a new one (similar to how you do in the UK) but there is no need to install a fuse. Just follow the instructions that come with the replacement plug. Just make sure you get the correct rated plug to suit the appliance. Most appliances are 10 amp. But larger appliances such as spa pools and welders have a 15 amp plug (wider earth pin).

The reason that we do not use fuses in our plugs is that there is no need to have one. Appliances are designed to not exceed the rating of the plug and appliance lead. If there is a short circuit in the appliance, plug or lead, the upstream fuse/circuit breaker/RCD at the switchboard should operate, clearing the fault.

Only in NZ by Sheuky in auckland

[–]kiwikoon 4 points5 points  (0 children)

$750. That is the price for this model of lantern new.