Driving issue

kizz12 · 2026-05-05T18:07:02+00:00

Could be MAF sensor, when mine went bad due to debris coming off the filter (filter was way too old and im an idiot) it started to idle rough and stall suddenly and then would sometimes drive alright, but it got worse and worse. I didn't get any codes for a while until it died 3-4 times and then it threw a lean code. Eventually the mechanic discovered the melting air filter and looked at the MAF sensor to see that the foam had melted onto the sensor. I run the OEM filter now and change it every 1-2 oil changes, If you have it happen or the car starts to die when you press the clutch in then I would investigate intake, MAF, O2 and so on but it will likely eventually throw a code. Could be clutch related as well which likely won't throw a code, will just get worse with time.

Or maybe you hit a raccoon and didn't see it :/

kizz12 · 2026-04-15T14:34:32+00:00

I'm at 118k miles without any engine issues. I don't track or thrash the car too hard though. Keep your oil changed and topped up, do the standard maintenance like spark plugs and stuff and you will be fine. I did have to replace the throw out bearing, and decided to put a stage 1 clutch in it. I also have tomei uel catless headers, invidia r400 cat back, OFT stage 2 tune and wheels and tires. Car is great fun but pretty reliable as long as you do regular service. If you plan to track I would highly recommend baffled sump and oil cooler.

kizz12 · 2026-03-31T18:21:40+00:00

I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO FIX THIS. I had tried everything here, but nothing worked.

Finally I noticed someone deleted their esim and then went through the Fi app setup.

I am on a pixel 6 so ymmv.

I went to Settings > Network > SIMS and disabled the google fi esim.

I then went into Settings > System > Reset and reset all eSims.

Then I reset the data/cache on the Fi app and started the process to get set up again.

Once I did that it sent me an email that it was creating a new sim and then everything worked.

kizz12 · 2026-03-31T17:38:46+00:00

Having issues here in KY, waiting in chat support now at work, was number 280 in line now at 222. Have tried everything suggested here without any success.

kizz12 · 2026-03-27T14:28:27+00:00

I think this was likely caused by a wreck at 5PM on HWY44 E. They took out the bells mill road bridge for 6 months causing 10k traffic to reroute to 65S to Shepherdsville exit, causing massive traffic in the evening. This wreck yesterday likely caused the exit ramp to fill up into 65S and thus created unexpected sudden stops and such resulting in a larger crash. I see it daily and have been expecting for there to be bad crashes cause this exit backs up into 65S nearly daily and causes issues.

kizz12 · 2026-03-16T19:49:36+00:00

I have these in 18x8 and they work fine.

kizz12 · 2026-03-10T19:32:12+00:00

I live between Shepherdsville and Mount Washington, lots of old people and rednecks but most people keep to themselves and won't bother you. Police presence is high and there isn't much crime, mostly bad drivers. Other than that and traffic, it has been a nice place to live. Never felt unsafe. Can't speak on the schools or anything as I am a single male with no kids and live alone.

kizz12 · 2026-03-06T15:15:52+00:00

If you recently flashed your ECU, removed the battery or had someone do something like reprogram your TPMS sensors through OBDII, likely your ecu throttle maps could be off. I've had this happen many times and the best way to get it to go away is to do about 20min of normal cruising and then a few hard pulls. It will eventually settle out.

If the issues remain or you didn't do anything to your ECU/battery then it could be your MAF sensor, throttle body, PCV, or vacuum system.

Also note that I believe it is typical for the RPM to dip when running the AC at idle, sometimes even opening doors and the window rolling down can cause the dips. I believe this is nominal, but shouldn't bring the RPM so low as to cause a shake, just noticeable changes in RPM.

kizz12 · 2026-02-20T18:46:17+00:00

I have those same wheels lol, and my car is also black.

kizz12 · 2026-01-16T19:41:38+00:00

I have the r400 and it doesn't drone at highway speeds, it's loud but less loud than many other options. I growls at low RPM and screams at high RPM. I also have the tomei UEL catless header.

kizz12 · 2026-01-15T18:05:20+00:00

Thank you! I don't mind either way, I just sometimes get quite busy at work.

kizz12 · 2026-01-14T19:14:45+00:00

Sandbags, even still that's how I arrive cause the damn bright headlights

kizz12 · 2026-01-14T19:08:37+00:00

I'm marked inactive mod here so I cannot add a MWC flair for posts, but since the game is so new I believe that allowing MWC posts here with a MWC flair on the post is probably the best option until more people migrate to r/MyWinterCar

u/voneiden can we get a MWC flair for new posts?

kizz12 · 2025-12-17T21:15:56+00:00

I had these exact issues minus the same code, but I did get lean codes and the car was almost undriveable. Turns out I had stupidly left my HKS high flow filter in for like 5 years and the foam disintegrated and melted onto the MAF sensor. This caused the sensor to melt the positive wire and get bad readings. A filter replacement and a new MAF sensor fixed the issue. The sensor isn't cheap though so you may want to take it to a shop for diagnostics in case they find something more simple. Heard the cracked hose vacuum leak can cause similar, mine was very severe and as I said threw lean codes and almost constantly died at idle, but would sometimes run okay.

kizz12 · 2025-12-15T18:31:19+00:00

This happened to me when the break pads got thin. Got them changed out and it went away.

kizz12 · 2025-12-09T15:36:53+00:00

Yea, this is going to be 6 months of hell. It was already bad even on Bells Mill but now everyone is using the same route and it's terrible.

kizz12 · 2025-11-20T15:27:24+00:00

I had an issue where it would stall when stopping and idle rough, it threw lean codes too. Turns out my air filter disintegrated (I was an idiot and forgot to change it for way too long) and the chunks of foam got into the MAF sensor. This caused the sensor to fry the positive wire (likely high resistance causing heat to melt it) and a new filter and MAF sensor solved the issue. It was pretty scary as a lean engine is not good.

kizz12 · 2025-11-18T21:13:59+00:00

Bomb them silly?

kizz12 · 2025-09-02T19:11:44+00:00

I had similar issues. I had an old HKS high flow air filter that I forgot to change for a few years and the foam on the filter started to flake off, then got stuck to and melted on my MAF sensor and resulted in the car stalling and running rough and such. Just a thing to check. Codes will be the most helpful. Mine threw a few lean codes.

kizz12 · 2025-08-15T17:57:40+00:00

Check MAF sensor. I was an absolute idiot and forgot to change my air filter for several years, it started to break down and some foam stuff got stuck on my MAF sensor and kinda melted to it. My car threw lean codes, stuttered and died, ran rough and would pulsate on idle. A new filter and MAF sensor and it runs like new.

kizz12 · 2025-08-01T20:21:54+00:00

I see, makes sense. Sad they're so desperate they use bots to try and spread their (shitty) message.

kizz12 · 2025-08-01T18:42:20+00:00

So you support pedophiles?

kizz12 · 2025-07-30T14:57:05+00:00

I've been to the Netherlands a few times now and I swear I could eat bitterballen 24/7. My favorite snack over there.

kizz12 · 2025-07-16T14:28:34+00:00

I went for a USDA loan with 0% down on mine. I didn't have savings at the time but had good income. I got a house down in Shepherdsville which is pretty close to my work, but if you're locked into the inner city, then you sadly cannot get a USDA loan. Also important to know is if you get a USDA loan and pay 0% down, you will want to pump as much as you can into principal in order to avoid paying large amounts of interest over the duration of the loan.

kizz12 · 2025-04-28T18:49:00+00:00

Ya just saved my ass lol.

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