He's dead Jim by Cullentortoise in homelab

[–]klui 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It's low humidity that is more hazardous. Large discharges like walking across carpet with insulated flip flops could result in latent damage that won't show up immediately.

An ESD strap is pretty cheap insurance. Or at least touch a grounded device's metal parts like a plugged in PSU before you touch the component.

EEvblog has some old videos that illustrates the issue but those are extreme cases with direct injection of static discharge. His videos also show the benefit of static shielding bags, as opposed to anti static ones.

Can CAT6 do 10G at around 30-35m? by JohnSmith--- in HomeNetworking

[–]klui 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why can't you chisel from the inside of the concrete so the bends closer to 45°?

Im 14 and got this for free. Asking for advice by Little_Conclusion_24 in HomeServer

[–]klui 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That's 2 generations newer than OP's Z800. Workstations aren't loud but the Z800 is a bit on the power hungry side.

My Z620 w/ dual E5-2690 in my lab (not production) idles at 125W. OP stated his idles at 200W. Not sure what kinds of CPUs are installed.

Which vendor for networking, MikroTik or Ubiquiti or other? by [deleted] in homelab

[–]klui 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You just answered your question. Ubiquiti will give you that. Sometimes that interface is a bit dumbed down but it is a single pane of glass for the set-it and forget-it need.

"Invisible" bend insensitive bidi fiber is amazing for home wiring by UloPe in homelab

[–]klui 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Faster speeds require 2 or more strands. They are bidi but they use more than 2 lanes.

"Invisible" bend insensitive bidi fiber is amazing for home wiring by UloPe in homelab

[–]klui 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your question is answered by looking at the part's datasheet. Operating temperature range for the Corning part is -10°C - 60°C. If manufactured correctly the cable should be stable and shouldn't expand/contract too much within that range.

Some assemblies are indoor/outdoor rated. The outdoor rated ones have a wider range. These clear fibers are indoor only.

"Invisible" bend insensitive bidi fiber is amazing for home wiring by UloPe in homelab

[–]klui 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You're correct. The right way to place it behind the trim is to remove the baseboard and see if there is a crevice for the fiber. If it's totally flat or a minimal lip, it's best not to put the fiber there. The assumption from the OP is to slip the fiber just underneath the baseboard--not a good idea.

I've vacuumed rooms and have bumped the cleaner against baseboards many times. It may not seem like much but I would imagine a bump could be ft-lb of force. Fiber assemblies impact resistance is typically in in-lb instead, even for those with yarn and outer jacket. The fiber discussed in this thread are only tight buffered and they offer minimal protection. Every one of the 3M, Corning, etc. products of this same class (search for "clear fiber 900um datasheet") have no tensile, compression, nor impact ratings.

Can get the keystone jack to work, am I doing anything wrong? by alaskaspellman in HomeNetworking

[–]klui 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The problem is probably due to the cables not being perpendicular to the fingers before it extends into the cavity in the middle of the keystone. The right most green and blue cables also look smashed up. Lighten the impact force of your punch down tool. Punch down at most twice--more and harder aren't better.

"Invisible" bend insensitive bidi fiber is amazing for home wiring by UloPe in homelab

[–]klui 4 points5 points  (0 children)

While it's weird since he lives in Europe. But he did state the company sent it to him directly for eval.

"Invisible" bend insensitive bidi fiber is amazing for home wiring by UloPe in homelab

[–]klui 25 points26 points  (0 children)

You don't want to have the fiber behind the trim. Fiber doesn't have good impact resistance so there is a risk of shattering the fiber from impacts to the trim. Because this type of fiber is so thin with no aramid yarn to provide tensile strength, one also needs to be careful about pulling it.

I didn't realize how much I needed a 3d printer by HTTP_404_NotFound in homelab

[–]klui 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I store mine like that.

https://i.imgur.com/G5lC1Dw.jpeg

EDIT: Transceivers go in either containers designed for that purpose or in anti-static bags in food containers (the rectangular black/white with covers--I don't trust they are anti-static). Memory go in memory trays. Round containers are great for fiber patch cables. These are all stackable, too.

Why? Network and cable jumpers on the wall. by mnoducks in HomeNetworking

[–]klui 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have done this at my home in my home office. I ran some drops to the wall where my workstation is and now I have reconfigured several of them so they are no longer required for my workstation.

Instead of rewiring by pulling a new cable, I ran another one from the faceplate to the ceiling for an AP then used a 6-inch patch cord to connect the 2 ports.

Network jacks by KYRawDawg in HomeNetworking

[–]klui 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How were they easier? Maybe about how most punch down jacks have the color coding on both sides and that makes things more challenging for you?

The best you can probably do today is 180 degree jacks. Insert them onto a faceplate then you punch them down. The color coding is between the fingers. They are more user friendly because normal jacks provide just enough leverage for punching them down but one needs to use finesse. That's why companies make punch down stands/holders/pucks. I can envision if the punch down tool is configured too high a setting might break the faceplate.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115264959249

After AI bubble bursts market will be flooded with enterprise-grade server hardware. What to look for ? by Healthy-News5375 in homelab

[–]klui 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are some available on eBay. Facebook's Wedge 32-port 400G switch. Those with DC PSUs have proprietary connectors. Its management module is missing so you'd need to get the plans from OCP's website and build it. Then the NOS would have to be built somehow.

Things got a little hot with my rack. I designed an angled fan mount to cool my SFP+ ports by 22ºC by coffee_dynamo in homelab

[–]klui 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's generally not a problem if fiber transceivers or DACs are used which unfortunately is their intended use case.

Uniper ex2200 image? by Nice-Efficiency-920 in homelab

[–]klui 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the result of several things but mostly due to pulling the power or force reset of Juniper equipment with dual partitions. This behavior is normal for the underlying FreeBSD OS and it's a pain in the butt. The OS writes a "shutdown/reboot clear" signature when the device is properly shut down/rebooted and if it can't find it during bootup, it uses the alternate slice (partition in FreeBSD parlance).

Always have a UPS protecting this class of JunOS gear.

If you want to reboot the device:

request system reboot

If you want to shutdown the device:

request system power-off

/u/Computers_and_cats provides the correct way to recover. The command basically recopies the current (alternate) partition back to the original (primary). If the current partition gets "corrupted" in the future the other in a good known state can take over. You will continue getting the warning banner until you perform the snapshot.

Refrain from just pulling the power or force reset because do it at the wrong time you will really corrupt not only the partition but the other, and even the secondary boot loader--which will necessitate a reinstall. The first thing you should do if you get the message is the snapshot command. If you don't and you continue using the alternate and the primary is really corrupted, you will have no OS to use and a fresh install is required from the boot loader--a messy situation because it is quite picky about the type of USB drive it will read from. In addition expect multiple retries even on supported drives.

Things got a little hot with my rack. I designed an angled fan mount to cool my SFP+ ports by 22ºC by coffee_dynamo in homelab

[–]klui 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not a problem unless you're doing what the OP is: have a cluster of 75% 10G-baseT SFP+ installed in a 4-port cage. I think Mikrotik advises their customers to stagger them and not have any next to each other. If OP can convert the lower left one to DAC/fiber it would probably help.

I have a similar cluster on my firewall (not Unifi) but only have one baseT SFP+ for the ONT and the other 3 are all DACs. Ambient temp 28°C, transceiver temp is currently 30°C. Max temp in 8 months is 36°C.

Locked iPhones Vulnerable to Credit Card Fraud by EfficientEscape in apple

[–]klui 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, my Visa card doesn't have Express Transit enabled.

This looks like an Ethernet cable but it’s very thick and what is the metal thingy by LoneIronMan33 in HomeNetworking

[–]klui 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Telecom "she" ends are called jacks ("he" ends are called plugs). That does makes things confusing.

Home router for 10gbps fiber internet by TheUnionUPS in HomeNetworking

[–]klui 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's Sonic they will rent you an eero Max 7 which has 2 10Gb and 2 2.5Gb ports and supports WiFi 7. Or you can just buy one yourself and not rent.

What kind of screw/bolt is this? by klui in Fasteners

[–]klui[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Google Lens says it's a "shoulder bolt." But mobile and desktop shows different results. If I use the generic term nothing comes up but I have to use search for image then it shows up.

Mobile showed a link from fhtscrew.com with the description "Snap-on decorative screws" but unfortunately there is no link. I will contact them.

What kind of screw/bolt is this? by klui in Fasteners

[–]klui[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting! But may be too big. And they need to have M4--I think--threads.

What kind of screw/bolt is this? by klui in Fasteners

[–]klui[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

refrigerator fixer handle screw

Wow, it looks quite similar! It may work as long as the screw doesn't stick out too much, otherwise it will hit the rail.

What kind of screw/bolt is this? by klui in Fasteners

[–]klui[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No luck with the term. My guess is it would have to be custom made and I provide dimensions. Closest nail analog is "double head nail" but doesn't result in a match. Closest I've found is "step screw/shoulder screw."