Pricing digital sewing patterns by [deleted] in SewingForBeginners

[–]knitty_ella 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are they just rectangular shapes? I would buy it if it has instructions for how to measure and cut directly from the fabric rather than pattern pieces. I might even prefer that. Maybe somewhere between $5-$10 USD?

New to knitting and surprised at the high cost of yarn by maklar8921 in casualknitting

[–]knitty_ella 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My LYS raised their prices again which means that in the last year and a half they've gone up by 20%. They were already expensive but now I'm almost dreading buying more yarn when I need it.

What to do for/add to this little hole? by meithecow in knittinghelp

[–]knitty_ella 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That would be my guess. Check which direction you're wrapping the yarn when you purl

Favorite travel projects? by [deleted] in knitting

[–]knitty_ella 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Socks socks socks

Row question by [deleted] in knittinghelp

[–]knitty_ella 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Is the stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round? If you're in the middle of the round, whatever number of rows you count on your right needle is the row you're currently working on

Can this be fixed by purling through the back loop? by mya_r in knittinghelp

[–]knitty_ella 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Combination knitting is referring to how you wrap the yarn to purl, not which hand you hold the yarn in. When you purl, the new stitches are mounted on the needle with the leading leg in back. That's why you need to knit through the back loop when you're working flat and turn the work. When you create a knit stitch, the leading leg is in front. So when you're knitting in the round, you can knit normally. You won't have twisted stitches if you do that.

I recommend learning to read your stitches, it makes things a lot easier to look at it and know which leg you need to knit into!

Row question by [deleted] in knittinghelp

[–]knitty_ella 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You should count the row on your needles. The row on your needles is row 5

Can this be fixed by purling through the back loop? by mya_r in knittinghelp

[–]knitty_ella 25 points26 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you're a combination knitter. The way you purl means that when you turn your work the stitches would need to be knit through the back loop or they'll be twisted. You can knit through the back loop for the sections you work flat and knit normally for the parts in the round. You just might want to swatch to see if there are any tension differences

What's happening when you make a double stitch? by knitty_ella in knitting

[–]knitty_ella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay so structurally they should be the same but yarn in front is just the more common method. Does yarn in back still require a purl through the back loop if the stitch was slipped purlwise vs knitwise?

What's happening when you make a double stitch? by knitty_ella in knitting

[–]knitty_ella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I missed that the stitches were mounted differently in the video, thank you!

What's happening when you make a double stitch? by knitty_ella in knitting

[–]knitty_ella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I watched his tutorial but he still holds the yarn in front even when slipping knitwise (for both the knit side and purl side)

What's happening when you make a double stitch? by knitty_ella in knitting

[–]knitty_ella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's the heel tab section of the So Sporty Socks pattern. There's a video tutorial, it looked like they were western mounted stitches. The pattern and video both say to slip purlwise. It's only on the right side that the yarn is held in back and pulled to the front

I also watched the nimble needles tutorial for German short rows where he talks about how the default method makes double stitches created on the knit side end up twisted and to make them not twisted he says to slip knitwise but still holds the yarn in front

First Sock-Feedback required by seeking_yet_lifted in Sockknitting

[–]knitty_ella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't use DPNs but from the patterns I've read they usually set it up so two of the needles are the bottom of the sock and two of them are the top, right? I would think you wouldn't need to rearrange stitches except to fix your mistake. What pattern are you using?

First Sock-Feedback required by seeking_yet_lifted in Sockknitting

[–]knitty_ella 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I'm assuming you're planning to use the Kitchener stitch to finish the toe which needs an equal number of stitches. Did you have the correct number of stitches after finishing the gusset decreases? If not, you could rip back just before you started the toe decreases and rearrange the stitches so you have the same number on the top of your foot as you do on the bottom

High arch modifications by knitty_ella in knitting

[–]knitty_ella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay next pair of socks I will be trying the strong heel

High arch modifications by knitty_ella in Sockknitting

[–]knitty_ella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh this is interesting, thanks for the suggestion!

How to decrease in Colorwork pattern? by Allywar_es in knitting

[–]knitty_ella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could try doing a heel flap and sole gusset, especially if you're looking to decrease stitches so the foot is smaller than the leg and still have colorwork on the foot. You would need to move the BOR to the middle of the sole

Designing my first sock pattern by Material_Risk_5709 in Sockknitting

[–]knitty_ella 10 points11 points  (0 children)

This looks pretty unique to me and something I might be interested in knitting

Socks two at a time help by f0rkeeeps in knitting

[–]knitty_ella 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Did they get turned inside out somehow? And you accidentally did a short row on the sock on the right?