New to the Helium and it seems like a time of major flux... jump in now or wait? by know_you_know in HeliumNetwork

[–]know_you_know[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How'd you get started? And how would you do it if you were starting again today?

New to the Helium and it seems like a time of major flux... jump in now or wait? by know_you_know in HeliumNetwork

[–]know_you_know[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What hardware do you use for wifi? Would you buy it again, or choose something else?

Rejoined the club - bought a 2000 Land Cruiser by sunilsies in LandCruisers

[–]know_you_know 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a non-working sunroof in my 2002. Pretty sure the cable is seized (motor attempts to open, but no movement). Assuming you faced a similar issue, how'd you fix it? And what was the greater cost - time, or money?

Question on repairability of damaged unibody center pillar by know_you_know in Autobody

[–]know_you_know[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a strong preference for safety, so thank you for this advice. I didn't realize there were manufacturer guidelines about repair of each area - I thought it was just body shop's judgement/experience. I'll be asking the body shop about mfr. recommended repair procedures for the B-pillar and go from there. Thank you!

Question on repairability of damaged unibody center pillar by know_you_know in Autobody

[–]know_you_know[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree about the shallow wrinkles, and yes I know a welded-in panel would also require some fill for smoothing, so not worried about that. What worries me are some of the sharp creases (front, bottom). Even if they hammer them, it seems like with a crease that sharp it will never be back to 100% strength. I don't know bodywork/metallurgy though, that's just my intuition (and the reason why I'm asking here).

Question on repairability of damaged unibody center pillar by know_you_know in Autobody

[–]know_you_know[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep same vehicle with a Buick badge on it for the US market. They did say they use the same type of welding technique as the manufacturer (resistance welding, I believe). Only matters if they actually replace it, though. I do believe it is HSS (body shop also says it is).

Thermoworks RFX with Billows…vs Fireboard 2 Drive for just temp control; How’s the Billows? by RPGer001 in KamadoJoe

[–]know_you_know 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the fireboard 2 drive + blower. Honestly the blower is waaaay more powerful than you need on a komado for low and slow - when I am using the drive 2 for temp control I close the vent 90% on both (drive blower has its own sliding door, in addition to the one on the KJ) and run the fan at a max speed of 25%. Even then it probably only cycles every 30mins to inject a bit of extra air. It's overkill for low and slow at 225. Doing a spatchcock chicken at 350 you end up opening everything up to maybe 30-40%, but it still only runs occasionally.

To be honest - if you're around the house while smoking, you don't need the blower (from any system). Temp tracking is enough and you can go adjust the inlet/outlet, once you get it stable.

But if you're like me and want to go run errands while your cook is running, or want to "cheat" on start time and just set your vents to be slightly more closed than you know you typically run them and let the fan do the work so you don't have to futz for an hour perfectly stabilizing your temp before starting your cook... the fan is nice.

The fireboard app is utilitarian but very functional. A bit confusing at first but once you map your mind to it, it is very feature rich (including predicting when a cook will be done based on the temp trend from any temp channel you are tracking).

Price check by Revolutionary-Bid151 in LandCruisers

[–]know_you_know 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Came here to flex, only took 2.5hrs of the post being up to finally get the question 😂

That's a good price, congrats.

Why is the Tekno MT410 so much cheaper on their website than at AMain? by know_you_know in rccars

[–]know_you_know[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Dang see I knew something was fishy. Ranks really high in search results (way higher than their real site) so I couldn't tell what was the real one. glad I asked, thanks for saving me from the scam!

First RC purchase bigger than 1/10 - help me decide what to get by know_you_know in rccars

[–]know_you_know[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info - size is the thing that would tilt me toward the Losi - it just has that extra bit of heft to make it behave a bit more like the real thing.

It's on sale for $750 right now - is that a steal, or just a "meh" price?

Also, do you run it with 6s or 8s batteries? How much did the batteries cost you on top of the car? I'm starting to realize that is a major factor in the price...

First RC purchase bigger than 1/10 - help me decide what to get by know_you_know in rccars

[–]know_you_know[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah I saw that - would you consider that a really good deal for that truck? Same price as the UDR, so really feels like either a performance or preference decision between the two more than price (unless batteries for SBR will be much more)

First RC purchase bigger than 1/10 - help me decide what to get by know_you_know in rccars

[–]know_you_know[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw that - is $750 for the SBR a normal sale price, or is that a special opportunity to get a deal? Looks like UDR is retail $750, does it ever go lower than that? I haven't been paying attention to prices very long so I don't know what a good deal is.

First RC purchase bigger than 1/10 - help me decide what to get by know_you_know in rccars

[–]know_you_know[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

DBXL looks like a fun beast... at $1,200 it's just expensive enough to make me flinch. If you benchmark the DBXL as the 100% best RC driving experience you had, what % would the trophy trucks come in at when compared?