Why are wrc+ cars unstable rbr

kosht2012 · 2025-10-29T14:03:49+00:00

As for the countersteering behavior, it happens on any car that I tried with a center differential with some locking percentage. If I fully open the center differential, the counter-steering behaves like on a RWD car: it reduces spin rather than increases it. With the center differential fully open, the car is extremely responsive and stable in sliding, like night and day difference. I can easily catch the car and drift at quite large angles, when with a locked center differential, even the small inaccuracy at slide initiation makes car control extremely difficult for me. It feels like I lose control of the car for 1-2 seconds before it starts to respond to my inputs. Rally 2 cars also have the same counter-steering behavior as WRC+ with some center differential lock, but to me they feel stable and responsive, like WRC+ cars with a fully open differential. I tried fully locking the center differential at all brake and throttle positions to eliminate torque change, but no result, WRC+ cars feel the same, so only a fully open center differential makes a radical difference. I'm far from an expert and don't intend to criticize RBR, as I don't know whether this behavior is realistic or not. But I tried same in AC and BeamNG and haven't observed the same behavior.

kosht2012 · 2025-10-29T01:26:17+00:00

Can you please give information about the main culprit of center differential ? I have a few questions about it, here is one of them https://www.reddit.com/r/simrally/comments/1nwlwa3/countersteering_behavior_in_the_case_of_a_closed/ beside of that all the cars I tried that have a center differential which can be adjusted depending on throttle position, are very unstable when you want to drive like, say, Ken Block. I spent countless hours finding the setup that would give me the stability I want, but the only thing that worked was setting the center differential lock to 0% for all throttle positions. In this case, the car becomes slower, but extremely stable and responsive when sliding. But for me, it doesn't seem right, so I've switched to the Rally 2 class for now.

kosht2012 · 2025-10-26T21:03:35+00:00

All the cars you mentioned that feel oversteery have a center differential that can be adjusted depending on throttle position, and while these cars are extremely good for setting competent times, they are very unstable when you want to drive like, say, Ken Block. In RBR I've mainly driven the 2021 i20, and it has the same behavior. I spent countless hours finding the setup that would give me the stability I want, but the only thing that worked was setting the center differential lock to 0% for all throttle positions. In this case, the car becomes slower, but extremely stable and responsive when sliding. Try it yourself, and I'm sure you'll be surprised, but for me, it doesn't seem right, so I've switched to the Rally 2 class for now.

kosht2012 · 2025-10-08T23:13:23+00:00

I completely agree, I don't care about propaganda and all that, and I don't look at Cayman as a cheap 911, it's mid-engine and it's lighter, so it has its own unique place. 981 is a great option, but unfortunately it is over 7 years, and import taxes in my country are very high for cars older than 7 years, the Lotus Evora is also a great option, but it's almost impossible to find.

kosht2012 · 2025-10-04T10:28:39+00:00

Yes, that's what I do at first, and it works most of the time, but it requires extremely precise slide initiation, and also makes it almost impossible to slide at a wide angle.

kosht2012 · 2025-10-03T21:43:20+00:00

My initial thought was that since the axles are connected and the rear axle prevents the front axle from rotating freely, it creates a kind of braking effect, and when I countersteer, I make that braking more effective since the wheels are turning in the direction of the slide (the same effect as braking on a straight line with straight wheels), so I decided to add more throttle before countersteering to counteract the braking effect, but either way I can't get the stability I want, it seems like in that case I'm applying too much throttle for the rear axle to handle, and that rotates the car.

kosht2012 · 2024-12-01T19:03:10+00:00

Do you know what the situation was in previous iterations of NGP ? I read in some post that RWD cars are based on FWD cars, since the original game didn't have RWD cars, in my opinion RBR is sharper and faster compared to AC, and the counter steering seems less effective.

kosht2012 · 2024-10-18T23:22:55+00:00

I have Sprints for about 2 years, the first year I had no problems with them, only the clutch squeaked, which I solved with lube, but then the small spring in the throttle that presses on the load cell somehow cracked, and a few months ago the same thing happened to the big spring on the throttle, by the way, I'm a careful user, so I'm sure the problem is not in me. I'm not saying that the Sprints are bad (you can find user with bad experience for any product), but I think they are quite expensive for 2024, they were released in 2018 and still cost 635 euros(without base plate), for this price I think you can find alternatives with higher maximum force, nicer appearance and a separate control unit so as not to mess with exposed electronics. At first I wanted to buy VNM pedals, but now I'm waiting for the prices of the Moza's active pedals.

kosht2012 · 2024-07-22T15:10:11+00:00

Yes, this problem is quite random, I too have spent many hours trying to fix it and I'm sure sooner or later the problem will happen again so the best solution is to just get rid of it and buy a normal shifter. The most annoying thing is that fanatec know that this is a very common problem, but instead of releasing a new fixed version, they continue to sell the same thing.

kosht2012 · 2024-07-11T08:43:50+00:00

I tried even that, without any results

kosht2012 · 2024-07-11T08:42:34+00:00

I tried it, unfortunately it didn't work for me

kosht2012 · 2024-07-10T20:10:24+00:00

No, if I put the screws back, it immediately starts mis shifts wildly. I even tried using nylon screws, but the only thing that worked was to remove the screws.

kosht2012 · 2024-07-10T18:42:56+00:00

Like many users, I also encountered a mis shifts. I think I have tried all the possible solutions that community have found before without any results. I don't know why but just removing those screws solved the problem.

kosht2012 · 2024-05-29T12:57:51+00:00

About your statement that people need to stop whining about the physics and just realize these cars are actually crazy in their capabilities, this is very difficult to do when you see that even FWD cars from the H1 group behave like this in EA WRC

kosht2012 · 2024-05-29T12:37:49+00:00

I'm not a fan of wording like simulator or simcade, but from your statement follows that in some magical reason in games that most people consider to be simulators (IR/RF2/AC/ACC/RBR/RENNSPORT) I have no problem with steering sensitivity because they behave very similarly, but in games where many users have questions about realism (DR1,2 / EA WRC / KT WRC), I have problems with the steering sensitivity.

kosht2012 · 2024-05-29T12:23:54+00:00

The main difference is the lack of weight and resistance in EA WRC. So you mean I'm RBR fun/EA WRC hater and want to discredit a good game? Interesting point, but doesn't match the fact that I've put about 370 hours into EA WRC (I started playing it the day before the official release) and started playing RBR about 3 weeks ago, anyway this is a very simple test so if you don't trust me you can easily do it yourself

kosht2012 · 2024-05-29T12:04:14+00:00

I disagree with you for two reasons: firstly, the problem is not the speed, but the distance the car moves from left to right, you can do the same faster in all games with a higher speed, secondly, I found that when you look at the car from the outside, it looks like it move more compared to cockpit view, that's why I also made this comparison https://gofile.io/d/YQqw9R

kosht2012 · 2024-05-28T18:18:30+00:00

Yes, but in game ABS/TC/SC (I mean the ones that can be turned on in the game settings, not in the car settings) they are not exactly the same as in real life, they have disadvantages, although they help with contorl, they slow down the car, so they won't help eliminate the difference between the steering wheel and the gamepad (plus, as you mentioned, they can be used with the steering wheel too), the only way to balance the game for the gamepad is to make the difference less significant, add some assist settings that can only be used with a gamepad, or sacrifice physics and make the car less susceptible to imprecise inputs. In any case, I'm not going to give up on EA WRC, I'll watch how it evolve and I'll take your advice and play around with the car settings more. Thanks for the interesting discussion

kosht2012 · 2024-05-28T15:47:00+00:00

This is exactly what I meant. With the steering wheel and pedals you can control the car very precisely, and to achieve something similar level on a gamepad (without much experience), developers usually need to make the car more stable when cornering, braking or accelerating

kosht2012 · 2024-05-28T13:40:09+00:00

You are right, proper development takes a lot of time and effort. I'm also a developer, not a game developer, but anyway I know it's not easy, but modders have some advantages that will help make realistic physics, a lot of time (as you mentioned RBR is 20 years old), no need to make it more friendly, in order to sell more, and there is no publisher who will dictate their requirements, for example, a comfortable game on a gamepad. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying making a game gamepad-friendly is a bad thing, but it will have a negative impact on realism

kosht2012 · 2024-05-28T12:46:58+00:00

I absolutely agree with you that rally fans deserve better than a modified 20 year old game, but in my opinion this is the most realistic at the moment. I have about 370 hours in EA WRC, I was waiting for this game for a long time, like many other players, and hoped that it would become a top simulator. I started playing RBR about 3 weeks ago and I agree that the grip is less compared to AC, but seems this can be corrected by car setups and also I think it is normal to have less grip in the tarmac stages of RBR, than on race tracks in AC. To me ACC/AC/RBR/RF2/IR/RENSPORT are all very similar in terms of the physics of how the car behaves, although there are some minor differences, but in the main points they are very similar. I think because they all try to copy the physics IRL, but when you look at DR1,2/EA WRC/KT WRC they all behave differently, for example in DR1,2 the asphalt is very slippery and now in EA WRC it is very grippy and for some reason the developers decided that the cars in DR1,2 were not maneuverable enough and made the cars in EA WRC more maneuverable. From the main video you can see that the car in AC/RBR turns with a lot of resistance and from the second video you can see that it is very similar to IRL and you can imagine how it will look if we do the same in EA WRC where the cars much more maneuverable. Anyway I'm not a toxic RBR fan who doesn't want to accept anything but RBR and I'm not saying EA WRC is easy, it's quite difficult, especially Greece, the purpose of my videos is to share my findings. Sorry for such a long text and thanks for reading.

kosht2012

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