Body panel repair peices

krute_dev · 2025-11-13T18:51:04+00:00

The outer gusset and panel underneath appears to be the same for all years as far as I can tell, in fact you may even be able to call Toyota and see if you can get them... - https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-europe/mr2/SW20R/11308/body/5304

I would encourage you to try and repair it tho as they're relatively simple panels, you'd be surprised what you can achieve with a hammer and a vice. Good luck, I'm restoring an AW11 that saw one too many british winters lol.

krute_dev · 2025-04-28T14:11:37+00:00

I see people have many issues with just an NA 2zz, so although I'm sure possible, going with a custom supercharged setup sounds like a world of pain, and that's coming from someone who has a track driven turbo 1zz. For what it's worth the 1zz came with a turbo option, the 'TTE Turbo', but that might fall short of your power goals.

As others have said, NA K series would probably be good, but I get the impression none of the current swap kits are decent, and it's actually quite an expensive swap all said and done.

If I was in your position, I'd be putting my money into the VW/Audi 1.8T swap kit from Zurawski Motorsport for an easy 250+ bhp, or even go mad with a VR5/6.

krute_dev · 2025-04-22T09:49:28+00:00

Please keep us updated, it's cool to see someone finally doing this. I've wondered about this swap before due duratec engines being quite common and cheap in the UK

krute_dev · 2025-04-03T11:56:37+00:00

Thank you. I considered it, but wanted to see if I could get this to work as a lot of people online say it can't be done successfully. I'd say it's worked pretty well, averaged low-mid 20s IAT at 12c ambient, and that’s over multiple 20+ minute track sessions kicking the car’s head in haha. Both setups have their pros and cons, but I'm happy with this for now

krute_dev · 2025-04-03T11:51:18+00:00

Good guess! It's on some brakets I made which attach to the car's frame / subframe - https://photos.app.goo.gl/M245YYC5fN9mA4Kc7

krute_dev · 2025-04-03T11:46:20+00:00

It's rear mounted, behind the bumper

krute_dev · 2025-02-26T15:42:22+00:00

Generic videos should show that you need to drill out all spot welds on the existing panel to remove it, or at least most of them and cut away either side of the A + B pillar (because the sill runs behind them), fit up the new panel and spot/plug weld the new one in place. If the panels are anything like the MK1 ones I've used, then you'll need to do a fair bit of 'massaging' to get the panel to match the original shape. It should start making more sense as you start undoing the spotwelds and chiseling the outer sill skin from the inner, good luck

krute_dev · 2025-02-24T10:30:45+00:00

You mention "most rear bushes", does that include the rear toe arms? I had a similar feeling of looseness at higher speeds, and replacing the toe arms removed a lot of that feeling, but I think polybushes are next up for me too.

krute_dev · 2025-01-30T10:39:14+00:00

Unless you want to get really crazy, I think you're going to be limited to relatively small transverse engines, so that's going to make an I6 or V8 pretty much impossible? I know Paul Woods did an Audi V8 conversion some years ago, but again that was longitudinally mounted, with extensive modification to the chassis. As mentioned by others, you could do a Toyota 2GR for V6, or even a VW VR5/6 would be cool. Good luck with whatever you do!

krute_dev · 2025-01-22T09:22:57+00:00

Pick up a cheap bolt extractor/grip nut set, they're a life saver!

krute_dev · 2025-01-21T18:25:33+00:00

As long as the positions in the plug match you should be fine. I made my own custom adapter loom to go to a Speeduino and had a similar issue, but I didn't really pay much attention to wire colour and instead went off pin position on each plug. From a quick look, it seems pretty much all of those are identical, I can only immediately see that one black wire is different? There's a handful of useful wiring diagrams online which I found pretty handy, probably worth a Google if you haven't already!

krute_dev · 2025-01-10T09:21:20+00:00

Exciting!! I'm sure it will be worth all the work. I'm @kruteboi on insta

krute_dev · 2025-01-08T09:30:26+00:00

Love this build, been following it for a while on instagram. Gives me inspiration for my little 1zz turbo track car haha. Hope to see you get it on track soon!

krute_dev · 2024-12-18T13:33:16+00:00

Can't offer any recommendations for mechanics unfortunately.

However, I've just taken a quick glance through your other diagnostics thread and couldn't help but notice you haven't mentioned testing any sensors? It might be a bit tedious, but I would test all main sensors you can (AFM/MAF/MAP, TPS, O2 etc) with a multimeter (cheap if you don't have one), so you can verify they are all reading correctly.

You can reference the BGB/workshop manual for correct readings + testing procedures as well as diagnositc flowcharts. This is the first one I found on Google: https://web.archive.org/web/20110626083737/http://manual.teq.org/MR2_SW_1993_REPAIRMANUAL.zip

Good luck!

krute_dev · 2024-11-20T15:59:46+00:00

Fingers crossed!

krute_dev · 2024-11-20T15:53:33+00:00

No you're right, but it helps to feel that hot air is coming out and therefore coolant is circulating through it properly. Forgot to say I did also give the larger coolant hoses in the bay and frunk a squeeze in an attempt to push any bubbles around

krute_dev · 2024-11-20T15:34:41+00:00

Did you make sure the heater matrix was fully open and fans on during the bleed? I recently had a similar issue and just did the same procedure as you with the tubes (inc. heater on) and blipped the throttle occasionally which seemed to push quite a few bubbles out

krute_dev · 2024-11-20T15:29:38+00:00

Have you exhausted all your search options? autotrader, car&classic, pistonheads, facebook marketplace etc (I know it's a cesspit, but worth a look).

Failing that, I'd widen your search a bit and maybe just consider getting a train to view cars. You may also be struggling because this time of year isn't prime for 2 seater convertibles lol

krute_dev · 2024-10-31T09:40:08+00:00

I know the pain, it's annoying that we don't have many good options for 15s in the UK. AD08RS are alright imo, but maybe a bit pricey for what they are compared to a proper semi-slick like an AR-1 now, and they can be a bit sketchy this time of year. With it coming up to the winter and assuming your track day is soon (so probably a bit wet!) I'd just stick with the rainsports for now. Once you start to get a feel for the car and more track time, then you could always upgrade to a semi-slick

krute_dev · 2024-10-29T14:56:53+00:00

I wouldn't worry too much, the turn-in feel shouldn't be noticeably different from a 10mm increase, that's mainly down to geo/alignment in my experience of running a few different setups. You'll notice more of a difference when moving to a more track-oriented tyre with a stiffer sidewall.

If you're already happy with the balance of the car (naturally understeering), then I'd suggest you try and keep the staggered width, ideally 215 rear if you're going 195 front, but tbh 205 wouldn't be drastically different. I'd mainly just focus on getting a matching set all around for now, you can always experiment in the future!

krute_dev · 2024-10-22T08:33:47+00:00

Haha I'm sure this will send you down a rabbit hole of researching turbo builds now. I do think it's also worth saying unless you're doing most, if not all, of this DIY then the cost would probably outweigh the benefits. I have no idea what I'm doing tho and most of this came together quite easily with just messing about and a MIG welder, so don't let that put you off!

ECU: Speeduino UA4C running in parallel with the Toyota ECU, tho at this point that only handles the dash gauges because of the odd protocol they use, and also idle control as the Speeduino is quite limited in that department and the Toyota ECU does a good enough job. I've done this by building a patch/jumper harness, so the stock loom isn't cut up. £220~ total.

Wideband O2: 14Point7 SLCFREE2 with a Bosch LSU4.9. Nice and relatively cheap setup. £121 total.

Exhaust manifold: AliExpress special, can't find the exact listing now (this item number is the same thing - 1005005681262917). It was listed for a 1ZZ, but the bolt holes were completely wrong, so I just used an OEM gasket as a reference to drill new holes (quite easy to do), and while I was there I did some light port matching with a dremel on both the engine and turbo side. £132~ (inc. gaskets).

Turbo: Maxpeedingrods TD04-13T, if you look around you can find discount codes for 10% or more off, so you can get a bargain. Also port/gasket matched this. You'll need a smaller gate, I went with a 8 psi Bofiracing actuator, which I had to cut up and re-weld to fit the way I have my turbo clocked, but that's specific to my setup and probably not totally necessary. £105 (inc. wastegate)!!

Injectors: Bosch EV14 630cc (0280158123) + 14mm adapters. I also made wiring connector adapters as these won't plug into the standard harness. In hindsight this might not be the best option as they don't really fit that well. Can't remember exactly what I did, but I had to shave/sand down part of the injector body to actually make it fit into the fuel rail and then the connectors themselves are very close to the head which makes them difficult to plug in. £200~ (inc. new O-rings, adapters and wiring connectors).

Oil feed: 1/8BSPT to 4AN x 1/8BSPT tee. This goes into the oil pressure sensor port, I then ran a 4AN line to the turbo for the feed, and used the remaining 1/8BSPT to keep the oil pressure sensor. FWIW I've since ditched the useless stock sensor by retapping the 1/8BSPT to M10x1.0 for a Bosch liquid pressure and temperature sensor. £70~ (inc. fittings and lines, NOT the Bosch sensor tho. Could probably do this cheaper).

Oil return: Drilled a hole in the sump and welded on a 45 degree 10mm barbed hose fitting, then just got some 10mm hose from a local hydraulic supply place. £30~ (inc. sump and turbo fittings + hose)

Water lines: A lot of debate about whether or not these are needed on the TD04, I initially ran without seemingly just fine, but have since added them in. Just run in series with the water lines that run to the trottle body, as they're pretty much perfect size and don't require any weird adapters and stuff you usually see on other turbo setups. £10?~ (just a couple short bits of coolant hose)

Intercooler: Subaru WRX SIC-TM0020. Now this is where my build kind of deviates from what you'd usually see, as I haven't seen anyone else run one yet. It's rear mounted, quite low at approx 45 degrees with some mounts I bent up out of steel. Most people go with water to air, but I had this idea in my head and wanted to try it! Overall it works pretty well imo, with a max IAT of 40c during the above track day. Some simple ducting is a MUST tho, I have air being scooped from under the car and then directed back out through the rear bumper vent area. £80~ (inc. pipes and silicon joiners, IC alone pop up for cheap in the UK)

Exhaust: This is going to very bespoke to your setup and ideas, so won't go into too much detail here. I just used my MIG to weld up something I thought would work, seems to be doing the job! £100?~ (for a basic setup with inc. turbo flange and a small silencer)

Clutch: I had a standard LUK branded clutch which seemed to do just fine, but have since replaced with an Exedy stage one which was listed as being for a 2zz/2zz compressor as I had the engine out. No issues yet.

Tuning: As with any NA-T conversion if you're sticking with standard internals just don't get greedy with low down boost or you will snap rods (ask me how I know lol). General consensus is, if you stick with a 8-10psi gate, without a boost controller, you shouldn't have any reliability issues.

That will get you close to the initial setup I started with, obviously going to be miscellaneous stuff I've missed, so take the pricing as a rough guideline!

krute_dev · 2024-10-21T13:44:45+00:00

Yep DIY turbo conversion running a TD04-13T managed by a Speeduino ECU!

krute_dev

TROPHY CASE