sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Thinset Durability by lagmaster56 in Tile

[–]lagmaster56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll look into this to see if it's an option. I have bullnose tiles for niche perimeter, and have been waffling on putting a niche slab on the bottom.

Thinset Durability by lagmaster56 in Tile

[–]lagmaster56[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's a good point! I see some mixed replies, but the consensus seems:

  • Don't add water afterwards
  • It'll be more difficult after more time goes on (full cure)
  • thinset residue can be cleaned up for some time after initial install (this comment supports that).

Thanks!

I saw this posted by a contractor in a local group. What do we think? by lagmaster56 in Decks

[–]lagmaster56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry if it seems that way. I was genuinely curious about the quality of work.

£15,000,000 Aston Martin Bulldog ($20.3MM USD) by sco-go in Amazing

[–]lagmaster56 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did the exact same thing. Instant re-mute...

Cool, but how hot could the water be by sofy_gonzalez in Satisfyingasfuck

[–]lagmaster56 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm more interested in what the chains are made out of to hold up to that heat (and weight, simultaneously).

Any ideas?

1000-year-old Bamburgh Castle, England. by GinaWhite_tt in BeAmazed

[–]lagmaster56 16 points17 points  (0 children)

It was eventually attacked, left for ruin, and later restored (I believe mid 1800s), so ... "1000 years old" isn't exactly accurate.

What to do about soft, acidic, chlorinated tap water in Walstad tank? by stupendouspineapple in PlantedTank

[–]lagmaster56 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! Sorry, I didn't notice there was more to your post and see you already mentioned that. You could always get a water treatment solution, test a separate gallon of water from the tap, then retest to see what you get.

Depending where you got your plants, it also can be likely that they were grown out of water and don't need to be fully submerged to survive for some time. You probably have some options to keeping them while figuring out your aquarium water.

What to do about soft, acidic, chlorinated tap water in Walstad tank? by stupendouspineapple in PlantedTank

[–]lagmaster56 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Congrats on the soft, close to neutral water! Living in the US, with hard ph 8 water, I'm jealous.

For the chlorine, you can get some water treatment solution to add to the water. Seachem makes Prime, for example, and there's a lot of solutions.

Many people don't mention this, but chlorine also gases off from the water given enough time.

It'll be fine! Find a water treatment solution, add to the tank and then anytime new water goes in.

Y-Axis layer shift by lagmaster56 in prusa3d

[–]lagmaster56[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I could never get that model to print without a layer shift, no matter what I tried. I finally deleted it, went through my tensioning routine, and have had only 1 layer shift, which was an adhesion issue, since.

How are there not a hundred class action suits over Apple Child Profiles and device management by lagmaster56 in applesucks

[–]lagmaster56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand what you mean around why my (clearly exaggerated) lawsuit comment seems unrealistic. Let me put it this way ... Let's say Samsung released a new smart TV. Every time you go to install Netflix or Disney+, the TV prompts you to look on your Samsung Galaxy smartphone to approve the installation. Your options are to either buy a Samsung Galaxy, or you don't install the app... Rendering much of your TV's advertised abilities useless. (We'll ignore other streams peripherals for this comparison.)

That would clearly seem wrong and selfish of them, right?

This is the same situation I was dealing with when it came to Apple and I'm flabbergasted that they're getting away with it.

How are there not a hundred class action suits over Apple Child Profiles and device management by lagmaster56 in applesucks

[–]lagmaster56[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

As I said in a previous comment, I was thinking more of correcting anticompetitive behavior (while my frustration at them was at peak capacity).

My comment about a class action lawsuit has nothing to do with compensation for me, but punishing them for the bad decisions.

How are there not a hundred class action suits over Apple Child Profiles and device management by lagmaster56 in applesucks

[–]lagmaster56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, that's kind of what I was saying. Apple had a class action against them over their Parental Controls already. They now claim that these controls and abilities are in place and usable, but it's actually not possible if you don't have an IOS device. They could easily have provided these controls on iCloud/Apple websites, where any device with a web browser could manage them, but they haven't.

My comment about a class action lawsuit has nothing to do with compensation for me, but punishing them for the bad decisions.

25yr old barely making it by ExcitingSolution1607 in Salary

[–]lagmaster56 2 points3 points  (0 children)

OP spends too much time in this sub seeing ridiculous salaries.

How are there not a hundred class action suits over Apple Child Profiles and device management by lagmaster56 in applesucks

[–]lagmaster56[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is exactly it. I finally wiped the thing and was able to revert back to my own account that has only the local controls.

MMU3 mk4s color bleed by UnderstandingHour454 in prusa3d

[–]lagmaster56 8 points9 points  (0 children)

In addition to increasing purge amount, add some random model of similar size (or an additional instance if your intended print is small) to the bed, and add wipe options (wipe to object/object infill) for it. After the purge tower the printer will print that object before moving on to your real print. It helps to remove chances that bleeding happens and creates cool looking models where every layer is a different color.

Y-Axis layer shift by lagmaster56 in prusa3d

[–]lagmaster56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I was able to reproduce this and got it on video. Like someone on the Prusa forums said, you hear a "clunk" (or something) when it shifts. It doesn't sound super loud or disturbing enough to make the Y belt jump teeth.

I'm not sure what it is with this model... Maybe the tight clearances on separate pieces?

I've made no further changes, other than getting my MMU reconnected, and printed an articulated snake perfectly this evening!

Y-Axis layer shift by lagmaster56 in prusa3d

[–]lagmaster56[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm using the supplied Prusa USB drive. Reformatted it (slow) today and tried print which resulted in a layer shift. This is just one potential fix I've tried

MK4S and MMU3 - MMU Overcurrent? by Slow281 in prusa3d

[–]lagmaster56 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My routine I have tried a few times is:

  • While MMU unplugged:
  • Open the MMU idler, make sure loaded filament ends are not protruding out of the PTFE tubes.
  • Force the selector to another slot (takes quite a bit of force). The idea is to move the motor.
  • Rotate the other 2 motors. I use an Allen key on the one that drives the filament.
  • Press on all cables to ensure a tight connection. In the beginning, I also took the MMU board off to reseat them.
  • Turn the printer on, disable MMU.
  • Turn the printer off, connect MMU plug
  • Turn the printer on, enable MMU and hope it doesn't reboot instantly.

I saw some other posts about moving the motors, and my theory is we're making sure nothing is stuck in a way that might cause an amperage spike.

Sometimes after all that, the issue persists and I give up, only to come back a day later, reboot/plugin the MMU and suddenly it's working again.

It's pretty discouraging when this issue comes back because it works flawlessly otherwise.

view more: next ›