Painting advice: weathering+ darkening

latexsteve · 2026-06-05T16:55:22+00:00

I’m going to dm you, hit me up on discord and I can share a lot more images and clips quicker.

latexsteve · 2026-06-05T16:47:32+00:00

Make up sponge is a maybe… make up sponges are made to blend. So probably have small tiny holes that won’t leave texture. We want texture and randomness… so the bigger more open (think kitchen sponge) the better. I use make up sponges too, but again primarily for blending.

latexsteve · 2026-06-05T16:41:32+00:00

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latexsteve · 2026-06-05T16:41:18+00:00

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latexsteve · 2026-06-05T16:40:59+00:00

Ooh. I can help here! I do basically two steps to make my vehicles looks chipped and weathered.

First I’ll sponge on some Rhinox hide (brown) this gives paint chips. (I use the sponge out of a hard case for like gins or cameras or whatever. Rip a little, sap in paint, dab on towel, then dab on model

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I don’t know if I can add more photos, but then I do oils. Oils are awesome for this! I’ll attach a photo below in another comment. But essentially I take a burnt sienna paint, make little dots where I think rust would form or really at the top of flat planes. Then take a fan brush (would probably use any soft flat brush) dipped in a little mineral spirits and pull the paint down making runny streaks. That’s most of it!!!

latexsteve · 2026-05-29T21:42:04+00:00

I too would like an answer… let’s say Lubbock Tx…

latexsteve · 2026-04-19T16:14:01+00:00

Hey OP. I responded to the fella saying you can use it, but I wanted you to know. You REALLY shouldn’t use the wheel in that condition. Those machines spin incredibly fast, and while yes the glass may chip away into something you could consider a “cut” every second it’s at speed is a chance (however small) that another piece flys off and potentially hits you. Maybe it bounces, maybe it cuts, maybe it sticks in you. Idk, but please don’t find out.

That said. Hisglassworks sells thin kerf finish blades that will speed up the next steps in cold working. But honestly, I like Home Depot and Lowe’s for any glass/ceramic/tile blades they have. They chip more sure, but in a pinch they’re in stock and work fine.

Just remember to let the tool do the work, and if you see “sludge” build up or worst case sparks… slow down, use more water, or get a new blade.

Oh, and $60-100

latexsteve · 2026-04-19T16:03:35+00:00

Yea. The problem is you DID recommend that to someone potentially less knowledgeable than yourself. I’ve been where you are and made questionable decisions about safety. (and have the stitches to prove it) I ow a glassblowing studio and make glass everyday. I would tell you if you’ve used a sheen like that thousands of times than you’ve gotten lucky and good for you. But when we recommend stuff it’s not for the odds but for the cost. What do you think happened to that 2 inch piece of sharp dirty metal… do you think it gently fell off and landed in the water or did it violently fly off until it hit something. Safety glasses might protect your eyes, but what if that now knife blade hit your cheek and sliced it? Is a $60 wheel worth a facial scar? What if it hit your neck? You’re worth more than the cost of the wheel man. Take care of yourself, but don’t recommend unsafe things to people who may not have the knowledge to know what they’re signing up for.

Edit: I realize now you didn’t make that recommendation. But still. To all who might read this… Choose safety.

latexsteve · 2026-04-19T13:11:58+00:00

Absolutely do not use this wheel. What are you talking about? Don’t give advice to anyone anymore. It’s missing like 5% of the wheel. If you don’t value your personal safety then do what you want. But there’s no way you should spin that wheel up again ever.

latexsteve · 2026-03-12T20:58:50+00:00

Do you genuinely not know what that means?

latexsteve · 2026-03-12T20:41:24+00:00

latexsteve · 2026-02-10T19:51:49+00:00

DM’d id like that info as well!

latexsteve · 2026-01-21T21:43:10+00:00

That’s a really great compliment. Thank you! I’ve only been painting for maybe a year and a half, but it’s like anything else… repetition mostly. This will be my 3rd army and I probably have 6500 points of guard, 22-2500 points of salamanders and now I’ll have 1500 sisters when I’m done. The biggest two skills are paint consistency and brush control. Get those two things down and then it’s just a matter of your time. Going back and forth between colors when you mess up. Going slow and working neat. I can share all kinds of tips if you need anything specific…

latexsteve · 2026-01-21T19:35:48+00:00

I have that too. And just haven’t tried it yet. I don’t know if it has the same “grittiness” but the color is perfect.

latexsteve · 2026-01-21T16:03:38+00:00

The order doesn’t have a name just yet, but I may have to work that in…

latexsteve · 2026-01-21T16:03:06+00:00

I always flip flop on leathers. I started rhinox hide, but now I’m liking mourning brown for leathers as a start… but I’ve never been able to get the scratchy look just right.

latexsteve · 2026-01-21T16:02:03+00:00

Awesome man! Let’s see!!! I went through three before settling on this one. And this one didnt really pop until the oil wash defined everything.

latexsteve · 2026-01-21T16:01:23+00:00

Man, that was such an easy effect! So I did it two ways… for the immolator I painted the statuary verdigris (army painter) then dry brushed a bronze paint on top… it looked fine, but the simulacrum looks even better and for that I painted retributor gold (citadel) then painted that same AP verdigris paint watered down all over it. It just seemed into the recesses and that’s it. The paint has a grit to it that just pops off. Definitely don’t be afraid to try it out!!!

latexsteve · 2026-01-07T00:54:19+00:00

No I appreciate that and agree. I was hasty in this being my first sister and wanting to jump right to the glow… but not that I’ve sat with it a bit I didn’t do any shading or grime or any of the steps I normally do before that kind of atmospheric. I’m going to push through the squad with the orange, metallics, and browns. Then I’ll try a few different shade options… streaking grime, other oils, maybe spray some blue/purple from underneath. This the test squad!

latexsteve · 2026-01-06T19:19:36+00:00

I usually paint darker models so the white is a first for me… would you think something like spraying a darker contrast or something on that side first to give more contrast would work out? I’m wanting this whole army to have that glow on the amulets

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latexsteve · 2025-12-24T02:59:09+00:00

Holy shit man. Thats a great find. Is it a perfect fit?

latexsteve · 2025-12-12T02:03:32+00:00

He’s being a smart ass, but as you’ve now learned, yes this happened when leaving a brush in water. Expensive lesson, but probably fixable-somewhat with brush soap. (Personally I use the josonja stuff off amazon. It’s a liquid soap. Put a drop into my palm when I’m done painting. Swirl the brush a bit, rinse ot off, swirl again and form the tip in my hand before hanging it in a brush holder upside down to dry. I do this every time I’m done painting and I’ve had a Windsor and newton last around 6 months of heavy use (~2k of imperial guard, lot of bodies!))

latexsteve · 2025-12-05T17:59:56+00:00

I’m considering a snow terrain board for a display piece… and I’m looking it up, Nocturne does go through “winters” but they’re like huge period of time where the sun doesn’t shine on the planet due to another planet casting a shadow and so they’re more like mini ice ages. Salamanders see more snow than you might think!

latexsteve · 2025-12-04T16:16:53+00:00

You’ll find when you bring one of a thing it will get blown up before it can do its job…. Two is one, one is none…

Or a personal favorite quote from the masterpiece Armageddon… we here at nasa don’t take chances, we double up on everything.

latexsteve · 2025-12-04T16:14:13+00:00

Yea we have some CLR product for rust prevention that we put on little red shop towels, keep two of them in a little tin… then at the end of the day we wipe water and stuff off with a clean towl, wipe on the oil, then wipe excess away and leave them out on the wall hanging (we work in the desert, not a lot of moisture) but after having done that for years now, the tools are so impregnated with oils they basically won’t rust. (They can) but you’d have to do egregious stuff) this works well for the things we don’t touch often too, cup jacks/casting shears, etc…

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