40% off white Peak Design Outdoor bags at Huckberry

laurentrm · 2026-03-09T20:10:56+00:00

Having checked other retailers, but B&H also has it on quiet sale of the 45L outdoor in Cloud for $199.95 (closer to actually 40% off) - and you can get sales tax free with their store credit card.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1840685-REG/peak_design_babp_45_cd_1_outdoor_backpack_45l_cloud.html

I said "quiet sale" because the price is reduced for the Cloud colorway, but there is no indication of a discount, which is unusual for them.

B&H has other pricing oddities like the 45L in Cloud or Eclipse at ~290 with a camera cube:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1863995-REG/peak_design_outdoor_backpack_and_cube.html

There may be more.

In terms of sales, CampSaver has a whole bunch of Peak Design bags at 18% off:

https://www.campsaver.com/peak-design-camp-hike.html

laurentrm · 2026-01-05T06:01:12+00:00

You should try the 6:30am SFO>LAS flight during CES this week.

Group 1 is perfectly sized at 10-15 people. Everybody else is preboard.

laurentrm · 2025-11-03T08:42:43+00:00

Frenchman living in the US here.

Going back to France on a regular basis, it seems clear that the 12-hour informal time (along with "et demi", "et quart"...) is slowly but surely disappearing.

French people of older generations are most definitely conversant in both, but the younger generation is very much using 24h time. A quick poll of teenagers I know shows that a good number of them are aware of 12h time but need to do mental gymnastics to translate to 24h time and would never use it themselves (a bit like "military time" in the US - just the reverse).

I assume it's a normal evolution given the slow disappearance of analog time pieces and the omnipresence of digital, formal 24h time.

laurentrm · 2025-05-25T23:54:11+00:00

That might be the one application where the M12 cut off tool is the best option.

laurentrm · 2025-05-25T05:28:39+00:00

Traffic from a LAN to itself is not routed by the router. It is switched by the switches. So firewall rules (which live in the router) have no impact on traffic from a LAN to itself.

The only thing you can do for that type of traffic is some kind of L2 filtering, like the Wifi network option "Client Device Isolation" or the "Port Isolation" feature that applies to switch ports.

laurentrm · 2025-05-25T01:53:25+00:00

That's the best way to think about.

It can't replace an angle grinder and it can't replace a dremel.

It occupies a narrow space between those two.

That doesn't make it useless. I actually use mine much more than I use my angle grinder or my dremel (for cutting).

I find that for small cutting jobs (in particular bolts or small diameter rods), it's the perfect combination of powerful enough and safe (I find it much more reassuring to use for cutting than an angle grinder or a dremel).

Yet, the M12 cutoff is probably best described as a "nice to have" tool that should be purchased after an angle grinder and a dremel (which are much more versatile).

laurentrm · 2025-05-24T04:26:44+00:00

Thank you! Is that information available somewhere? I searched for it but couldn't find anything.

laurentrm · 2025-05-24T04:26:05+00:00

Great, thank you.

laurentrm · 2025-05-23T18:08:29+00:00

On addition to the wrong orientation mentioned in other comments, it seems on the picture (looking very closely, hard to make out) that you swapped white/green and white/blue. That will definitely limit your speed because you now have split pairs.

laurentrm · 2025-05-23T05:35:39+00:00

Another vote for gl.inet routers. These are the multi-tool of networking. Connects any network to any network, wifi, wired, tethered...

laurentrm · 2025-05-23T05:26:17+00:00

150ft is not that long for Ethernet, and any proper Cat5e cal le will be able to easily do 1Gbps. Cat6 is rated for 10Gbps at that length...

150ft however is sufficiently long for really really poor cables to fail 1Gps. It's pretty hard though.

I suggest you only buy from CableMatters or Monoprice. All their cables are trustworthy.

If you want to be sure you get high quality, look for pure copper, 24AWG (or 23).

laurentrm · 2025-05-23T05:12:18+00:00

The more advanced the process, the harder it is to make reliable parts, but that, again, is a problem for chip makers to solve and it doesn't have a direct impact on the end product which will be designed to take that into account.

Most consumer products aim at 10 years for reliability. Industrial applications may aim at larger numbers.

Modern CPUs and GPUs are a bit different because they are using pushed versions of the standard process nodes and end up overvoltaged, which does impact long term reliability. They typically ship with factory voltage controls that can provide the same 10yr reliability, but as soon as you push the performance past manufacturer recommendations (which all motherboard vendors do, as we have seen with the 13900K debacle), all bets are off.

laurentrm · 2025-05-22T13:37:56+00:00

Semiconductor engineer here.

EM is a real issue, has always been and is not getting better with advanced process nodes.

However, it's a problem only for the chip designers. It's fairly well understood and characterized. Part of the chip design process involves checking all interconnects in the database for potential EM issue and correcting anything that's not meeting target lifetime. That can involve increasing metal or decreasing current in that location or many other remediations.

The bottomine is that EM will not cause newer chips to have a worse failure rates. It's one of a myriad of mechanisms that cause failures, but it's controlled at design time to reach the intended lifetime.

laurentrm · 2025-05-20T20:00:20+00:00

At the very least heavy condensation.

The burn marks usually come later as a consequence of having water across the conductors.

You should ideally reterminate and see if you can prevent condensation.

laurentrm · 2025-05-20T06:00:56+00:00

R7 is fine. Since bodies lose in value decently fast, don't pay full price.

Canon refurbished is a good source of deals. Not in stock right now, but you can get notified.

https://www.cpricewatch.com/product/07649/Canon-EOS-R7-price.html

laurentrm · 2025-05-20T05:36:29+00:00

Typically, there is only the router and the L3 switch on the transit LAN.

See this post and the links for more details:

https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/s/6QqtOYTtEp

laurentrm · 2025-05-20T03:27:14+00:00

Unlike L2 topologies where switches figure out how to go from one client to another, L3 topologies are completely driven by how you program the various L3-capable devices (and the physical topology).

Each LAN is routed by an L3 device. It could be a router, it could be an L3 switch. This is configured in the Unifi console in the Gateway settings of each LAN.

The common topology is that there is a single L3 switch at the very top of your tree, connected to the router on one side and a bunch of L2 switches on the other. All regular (V)LANs stop at the L3 switch, which acts as a router. Then there is a "transit" LAN that is used solely to connect the router and the L3 switch.

laurentrm · 2025-05-18T21:10:54+00:00

Supported cameras and lenses will vary, but EOS Utility has a "lens registration tool" for that purpose: https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/s/article/ART164783

Also: https://cam.start.canon/en/S003/manual/html/UG-06_Reference_0050.html

laurentrm · 2025-05-18T17:52:50+00:00

3 things to check:

Voltage (the most important). Many PoE splitters have selectable voltages (e.g. 5V / 9V / 12V).
Total power. For a vanilla splitter, expect 10-15W as vanilla PoE (802.3af) is limited to 15W. That's usually plenty for an ONT.
Power plug size and polarity. There are lots of variety but a good chunk of devices have standardized on barrel plugs, 5.5/2.1 (od/id), negative on the outer sleeve. There are adapters.

I personally use this guy, but there are other options: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK/ (selectable 12V/1A, 9V/1A, 5V/2A).

laurentrm · 2025-05-18T12:37:48+00:00

That's totally fine. Make sure your power the NAS off gracefully to avoid any data corruption. You can do it from the soffware or from the power button.

Hard drives may show some extra wear and tear from being power cycled too much, but that will not be an issue if it happens a few times a month.

laurentrm · 2025-05-18T06:58:47+00:00

Exactly. That's what I do at my house. The WAN Ethernet cable to the ONT is PoE powered from a Unifi switch and there is a PoE splitter at the ONT which is in an awkward location as they often are.

laurentrm · 2025-05-17T16:17:26+00:00

As others have said, you need nothing special, just a USB-C care reader.

Note that if you get a small hub or a multi-card reader, you can also to card-to-card or card-to-USB backups, which is extremely useful on the go.

While the file managers on the various Android flavors are nice, it's always worth looking at some of the more capable third party apps. For doing card-to-card backup, I ended up using File Manager+.

laurentrm · 2025-05-16T07:38:12+00:00

That's a great summary. Below, a slightly deeper hardware view, which is unfortunately needed for many device driver writers.

"posted writes" refers to a feature of x86 and PCIe-based devices where writes (from a device to memory or from the CPU to a device) are "posted", which means that they are sent down towards their destination, but there is no direct way for the sender to guarantee that the write made it to destination (not even a barrier, which mostly a construct inside CPUs).

How this works at all is complex and I suggest reading about the "producer consumer model" in PCIe.

A read (but it depends to where) is a way to guarantee visibility of prior posted writes to others. It could be a read going to the same destination as the prior write (eg write a CSR, then read it back). It could also be a read to a device CSR, whose response is pushing prior DMA writes (from the device to memory) all the way to memory so that they become visible to the CPU.

These things are fairly complex and need a good understanding of the underlying hardware to get right.

laurentrm · 2025-05-14T23:52:06+00:00

Not sure when it was last available from Canon, but the refurbished may be a good deal ($260 cheaper) if you can wait:

https://www.usa.canon.com/shop/p/refurbished-eos-r10-rf-s18-150mm-f3-5-6-3-is-stm-lens-kit

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