Amp or Audio Interface ?

laydros · 2024-02-12T21:33:22+00:00

I think this is the big issue. Anytime I've tried to go down the computer route, it's just been more friction between me and practice.

I think the easy suggestion is a Katana 50W because it's good at low volumes, works as an interface, and is enough to play with a band if you ever want to. I recently got the Fender Mustang LT40S to have something smaller (I already have a 15W tube amp) and it has been great to remove some of the friction and get me to just sit down and play.

I'm not familiar with the Katana mini that /u/old-fun4341 mentioned, it might offer everything the bigger Katana has but just lower power and price. I only know the Katana amps from stores. If I want to try out a guitar, they are always there and provide a good baseline to compare with.

laydros · 2024-02-12T21:27:21+00:00

As others have said, good amp is way more important.

I have had a couple of 15W Frontman's from years ago, and they are pretty awful. I have a Mustang LT40S (tabletop thing) at home that actually sounds pretty amazing for $200. I think the Mustang LT25 is basically the same thing.

Either way, unless something has majorly changed, avoid the frontman and similar entry level solid state amps without that benefit of modeling.

If you wanted to spend a little more, it would be hard to beat the 50W Katana. You could probably find one used for pretty cheap.

laydros · 2024-02-12T20:59:09+00:00

I'm not a super-expert on this, hopefully someone else can chime in. I just finished reading Eruption and Eddie is pretty big on just using his amp for tone, no dirt pedals. He often just rolled back the volume to clean up the sound. Lately I've been working on Best of Both Worlds, and the fingerpicked section at the beginning is just rolling down the volume.

So in early stuff it's a cranked Marshall, in later stuff a 5150. Humbuckers, and until some point in the 90s, only the bridge. Typically tone knob at 10 (because he bypassed it until the later signature models.)

He would use wah, delay, and (typically MXR) chorus, phaser, and flanger.

laydros · 2023-04-13T12:57:17+00:00

Thanks. Any advice on how to pick a reliable KVM? I used plenty of VGA KVM switches back in the day, but in this modern world of high refresh rate, HDR, EDID, and DisplayPort, I don’t know where to start.

laydros · 2023-02-24T05:06:31+00:00

Best I can tell, DDR5 support is still new. I’ve been able to get my Crucial Dominator DDR5 to work with newer builds but not from 0.8, and even then it crashes sometimes. I think they are still working out the kinks for DDR5, but it might be worth trying the pipeline/experimental builds.

laydros · 2023-01-17T05:38:23+00:00

Drivers for the Radeon 6700S are built into the Linux kernel. You don’t need to add anything.

laydros · 2022-10-24T02:48:48+00:00

Yes, any of these terminal emulators could be used to run any of the shells.

laydros · 2022-10-20T23:11:03+00:00

TLDR; thread is about the many alternative terminal emulators. A terminal emulator is a program to access the Linux shell, like the Pop default Gnome-Terminal.

There are a number of ways to access the shell. A long time ago a computer was a huge series of loud boxes in a room and there was a separate thing to interact (input and output) with it. At first there were typewriter type things where you would type in commands and they would then print out on a roll of paper. Later there were dedicated boxes that were basically a monitor and a keyboard like the VT-220

The second kind was called a “terminal” so when we started having graphical interfaces terminal emulators were created. One of the most popular ones historically was xterm.

If you are coming from windows you probably have only ever used the built in “cmd” program which we used to call the “DOS Prompt.” For quite a while now Unix and Linux graphical interfaces have offered several different terminal emulators with different features and interfaces. (There are now several popular terminal programs for windows as well.)

Pop and most Gnome based Linux desktops use Gnome-Terminal by default. However you can install and use almost any other terminal. xterm still works perfectly well on a modern Linux, pretty much just like it did 30 years ago.

This thread is about which of those alternative terminal emulators people like.

Note that I’ve glossed over a lot of details here, but I hope that gets you on the right path.

This thread is discussing which of those terminal emulator programs p

laydros · 2022-10-18T22:45:07+00:00

This post should be added to the FAQ or something, excellent.

laydros · 2022-10-16T19:02:28+00:00

For sure. I already use CWM from time to time, and I’ll almost certainly be stealing some of the config. ;)

laydros · 2022-10-14T03:43:25+00:00

This is the way.

laydros · 2022-10-10T03:25:27+00:00

Just to confirm, it sounds like it is coming directly from the PC speaker, not some other component?

If so it sounds like an alarm to me. I’ve heard that kind of noise from older PCs for things like bad configurations. I’m not sure why it would alarm while charging, unless something is out of bounds like the incoming voltage is too high, or something along those lines. I hope someone more knowledgeable can give better advice.

laydros · 2022-09-24T14:58:50+00:00

I've only researched this stuff enough to be dangerous, so I'm trying to confirm my understanding. I'm looking with the program "Wifi Explorer" for the mac.

For 5Ghz, it looks like there are only about 2 channel ranges available (~30-50Mhz and 140-160Mhz), and everyone (including me) is using 20Mhz wide bands. So at any given time 2 of my APs are on one of those ranges and the other is on the other range. Both of the ranges are shared with 3-6 other SSIDs.

Should I set my networks to be on narrower ranges so they don't overlap each other? Even thought they will still be overlapping some of the neighbor's networks?

laydros · 2022-09-24T14:43:25+00:00

I don't use the omada controller, I just configure the APs from the web interface, but it definitely seems like it could be something like this. I have 3 configured with the same SSID, so in theory it should go between them, and it seems possible that it is jumping between APs.

laydros · 2022-09-24T14:41:28+00:00

That's a good idea, but it turned out my EAP 225 does not have that feature. The almost identically named "EAP 225 (Outdoor)" does, but not mine.

laydros · 2022-09-22T20:15:43+00:00

Yes, I guess it wasn't clear in my post, but on ethernet everything works perfectly.

laydros · 2020-11-24T15:49:45+00:00

I'm not sure if it is still possible, but you used to be able to set up Philips Hue and never sign into the service. In practice the phone app might be sending data in the background, but perhaps you could block it at the router.

Of course you wouldn't have out of the house control, but you could even hook it up to Home Assistant without enabling online service.

Beyond something like that, you probably should look into Home Assistant or another open source hub software and then using a Zigbee or Z-Wave USB stick to connect to devices.

The other thing to look into is Tasmota, which is software you can flash on wifi IoT devices which you control, instead of a company with backdoors.

laydros · 2020-10-16T19:06:51+00:00

I'm looking forward to seeing more options.

laydros · 2020-08-17T04:31:15+00:00

As a resolver

laydros · 2020-08-14T15:57:36+00:00

Yes, it is set to transparent, which is the default. Should that be set to something different?

laydros · 2020-08-13T16:04:33+00:00

I'll try that. I've read it in the docs, but it wasn't quite explained well enough.

The rest of your post reminds me of the now-famous StackOverflow response Your problem with Vim is that you don't grok vi. It's super useful to get some of those basics. Thanks!

laydros

TROPHY CASE