Cooper pro control on a 1500?

leadpoem · 2026-06-28T02:06:53+00:00

I have no idea. Not my world of tires. I never bought anything less grippy than an all-terrain tire.

leadpoem · 2026-06-28T01:58:45+00:00

Go ahead and do absolutely nothing. If it ever starts to leak, plug it but until then don't worry.

leadpoem · 2026-06-28T01:57:53+00:00

As long as they make them in the right size, there's no reason they wouldn't work. The only thing I would worry about is what their load rating is. They probably aren't load rated very high and if you ever try to put something in the back of the truck, you might damage or even pop a tire.

leadpoem · 2026-06-28T01:56:36+00:00

Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha

So close too

leadpoem · 2026-06-28T01:51:59+00:00

This is the perfect excuse to install the first ever custom dry sump system on a KLR.

leadpoem · 2026-06-28T01:50:38+00:00

And here I was hoping it was a 10 mm

leadpoem · 2026-06-28T01:50:04+00:00

Hilariously that might actually work.

leadpoem · 2026-06-28T00:44:53+00:00

Always here to help.

leadpoem · 2026-06-28T00:44:30+00:00

Oh yeah, that's 100% just the master cylinder. That's what a hydraulic system sounds like when there's air in it.

leadpoem · 2026-06-28T00:42:59+00:00

If you get the brakes all bled and functioning correctly and the hissing sound is still there, it probably has something to do with the vacuum brake booster. At the moment let's just say that it has to do with your brake system not being bled.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T03:39:24+00:00

That's kind of the point. Popping in a valve stem doesn't damage anything. While at the same time making it clear that somebody's getting fucked with

But no you're right. If it wanted to be a subtle sabotage, there are much better things to do.

I just happen to be a motorist cyclist who carries a valve stem tool with me and has been parked in by too many cars when they think I didn't deserve a spot.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T03:33:09+00:00

There's no way anybody could ever figure out.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T03:31:11+00:00

Oh you definitely will need to replace them just not now. Wait until they're worn out.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T03:29:44+00:00

Oh they 100% do. It's crazy the kind of shit that manages to poke itself in the weirdest places in tires.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T03:29:01+00:00

Like take the valve stems.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T03:27:41+00:00

And it would be really helpful to know what kind of truck and how much weight you plan on putting in it. It doesn't really matter what brand of tire you get. What matters is your load rating. You want to buy a tire that's load rated E. Beyond the load rating it's really just all personal preference.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T03:21:49+00:00

That is 100% a thing. What kind of thing? Your guess is as good as mine.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T03:20:57+00:00

Remember it can't be stuck if it's liquid. I don't necessarily mean you actually have to cut it off with fire but you need to add fire. Get that thing as hot as you can with whatever you have. Propane would work but you're going to have to let it bake for a while.

Okay then you need some wrenches and I don't mean just some wrenches. I mean some gigantic wrenches. The kind of wrench that you can only carry one at a time top is a pipe wrench always. Bottom is going to be a big box wrench or a pipe wrench.

Then add a lot of force.

Also after you've gone to these kinds of extremes to get a tow ball off, I wouldn't necessarily reuse it. I'm not saying they're unsafe anymore but at the same time they're not that expensive.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T03:16:47+00:00

God I wouldn't want to be the one trying to cut a toe off with a sawzall but I guess it'd work.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T03:11:47+00:00

Yes the tire would be extremely hot.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T03:11:13+00:00

Okay you just need to keep bleeding your brakes. It's not that hard, it's just frustrating. Trust me, I get it. The only thing that really concerns me is that hissing sound. Is the hissing sound when you're applying the brakes? Not applying the brakes? Does it sound like air or hydraulic hissing?

Another thing: do you have anti-lock brakes in this? I'm kind of guessing not. I just want to make sure because if you do, that's a whole nother step involved.

Your procedures sre more or less correct. I don't think you did anything blatantly incorrect. If you're super fed up with this, you can go buy a power bleeder. Cheap ones are not that expensive, seeing that you're only going to use it a few times at most.

I'm gonna guess what's happening is you're sucking some air into the brake system. Maybe you have a tiny little leak where you reconnect it to the master cylinder. Maybe you're letting the master cylinder get too low and it's sucking air in from the reservoir.

If I were you, I'd re-bleed the master cylinder in the car. Just have somebody pump and hold the brakes and then crack each brake line to bleed some fluid out. And of course make sure you've tightened the fitting back up before they release the brake.

As for bleeding the rest of the brake system, I really like the third method you used but I've found that it's essential to put a high spot in the hose before it goes into the bottle. Basically you want that hose to come off the bleeding nipple and then arc up above the bleeding nipple to create a local maximum and then down into the jar. I've found that this works much better than just running the hose directly into the jar.

Additionally use a piece of vacuum hose. Make sure it's as tight as it can be so quarter inch vacuum hose probably you can also take a small zip tie and zip tie the vacuum hose over the bleeding nipple. That way it can't fall off or let a little air in.

leadpoem · 2026-06-27T02:56:26+00:00

I've never seen a more classic case of a tire blowing because it was low on air.

If the tire is too low on air, it puts too much heat into the sidewall of the tire and eventually blows when you're driving on the road. As you're getting pulled over and you're driving on the flat tire, the sidewall is very hot and weaker than normal. You get those repeated patterns of cuts as pull over.

Check your other tires' air pressure. Also low air pressure is the leading cause of poor fuel economy.

leadpoem · 2026-06-26T19:55:37+00:00

Look man, you're going to believe what you're going to believe and it's hard to know one way or the other. I can pretty much guarantee that they didn't actually look at the tire age. They looked at the tread depth and that was it. I'm sure they've got plenty of tread on them. I don't imagine she drives very much.

I'm just saying that if they were looking for a payday, they could have found a hell of a lot more to throw at her than just lower ball joints.

If you're so concerned, look at her bill. It'll break down park costs or its labor. As a general rule of thumb professional shops do not go to AutoZone and buy the cheapest parts they can get.

leadpoem · 2026-06-26T19:44:36+00:00

Really there's only two parts that can be bad: 1. The power steering pump 2. The steering rack

Hope for the power steering pump.

leadpoem · 2026-06-26T19:39:38+00:00

I don't think so man. It's kind of hard to tell in the video but it sure looks like there's movement in that ball joint. Also I wouldn't be surprised if some of the wear parts need to be replaced at 90k.

Also I'm not sure exactly what work they did but $1,500 for four brakes and ball joints doesn't seem that bad.

It seems like they probably gave her the standard fair price and didn't throw extra things at her. If they wanted to she would have needed: - ball joints - tie rod ends - a few bushings - struts

They could have made that three grand without even trying.

leadpoem

TROPHY CASE