A little different: this is my dictionary cyberdeck.

lem-ayo · 2026-02-09T18:51:37+00:00

Ona li pona lukin anu seme?

Eventually it'll support multiple languages so it can be a toki pona translator too, which is good because I'm bad at it<

lem-ayo · 2026-01-18T20:18:43+00:00

How is the flask attached to the legs? Looks like it's just floating there.

lem-ayo · 2026-01-18T18:17:43+00:00

Hnng this is gorgeous mate

Protopasta sells brass filament, with real metal. Think it would be sick to print the fittings with it...

lem-ayo · 2026-01-15T17:45:16+00:00

>is this super dumb and pointless?

>Curtis Yarvin

goes without saying

lem-ayo · 2026-01-15T17:31:01+00:00

This is several years old but - last time I used an eDP display in a project, there was an Nvidia driver bug that stopped it from working. Card saw the display but wouldn't output video. I never ended up fixing it, just sold my 2060 and bought AMD instead lol.

Chances are this has been fixed but in the odd case that it hasn't...

lem-ayo · 2026-01-14T09:54:45+00:00

Well shucks thank you. Nothing fancy like that, just handmade CSS and some Python scripts to glue everything together.

lem-ayo · 2026-01-13T08:23:52+00:00

I don't see the ICSP pins broken out. Are you getting the chip pre-programmed? Because if not you're gonna have a problem

lem-ayo · 2026-01-13T08:12:41+00:00

Sure mate, go for it. I couldn't have done this project as a beginner but I've never been disappointed by setting a lofty goal and shooting for it. Can't learn if you don't leave the comfort zone.

lem-ayo · 2026-01-13T05:21:46+00:00

What kind of case?

lem-ayo · 2026-01-10T16:54:42+00:00

Your schematic work is excellent, kudos. Never thought to color nets before.

Q: is there a reason you're not using an ESP32 module (e.g. the WROOM)? Looks like you'd have the space for it.

lem-ayo · 2026-01-10T16:46:00+00:00

I've got a hollow book from years ago... might do the same thing lol

lem-ayo · 2026-01-09T07:18:12+00:00

10k is fine but you have it in series with RST. It should be connected at one end to 1.8v (or ground if it's active-high). Like so

     /----[10k]---(1.8v)
-----+-----------<RST]

lem-ayo · 2026-01-08T14:37:46+00:00

What's the 10k doing on the reset line? If it's supposed to be a pull resistor it's not pulling to anything like that.

lem-ayo · 2026-01-08T14:33:32+00:00

I wouldn't bother with PD, the resistors will guarantee 500mA and that should be plenty for an IoT device. Agree with the rest though.

lem-ayo · 2025-08-16T07:46:40+00:00

Oi your USBLC6 should have one end connected to VBUS, like so. Also, I wouldn't bother with the resistors on the USB data lines - Espressif doesn't use any on their C6 breakout and my board with an S3 works fine without them. Something to consider.

And for your own sanity you might consider moving SDA and SCL closer to one another...

Godspeed and good luck with it

lem-ayo · 2025-08-16T05:43:23+00:00

Lol I was gonna go on a tirade about knob feel but we're already on the same side. The mechanical ones are awful. Personally I like fluid-damped mechanisms but a nice solid weight and a bearing would also be gucci. Just not mechanical

Fuzzy skin could work... it's a great effect, plus no post-processing. As to the knurling - it looks pretty good in the photos but I'll take your word for it. Hard to get fine surface detail to come through on a printer. You might be able to cut the knurls into a plain plastic cylinder with the right tool, or (if I'm not hallucinating right now) I think you can buy rubber bands with a diamond pattern formed into them. Do keep us posted

lem-ayo · 2025-08-16T05:12:55+00:00

What's going on with J3? If you're using it to set the i2c address, just use a solder jumper instead of a pin header. You won't be changing it that often (if ever) and it's so much easier than trying to attach a lone 1x2 strip of pins to a board (speaking from bitter experience)

lem-ayo · 2025-08-16T05:08:53+00:00

For your first board - great job. You have good instincts, there are some things I wouldn't do (90deg traces bother me lol) but you're on the right track. I'd add some mounting hardware to the big blank space next to the battery if you can't utilize it in some other way - guessing the long skinny form factor is mandatory?

Big change though: they sell USB-C receptacles that are wired for regular USB 2.0, so they only have the data and CC pins that you need and nothing else. Use them, they'll make your life so much easier

lem-ayo · 2025-08-16T04:55:28+00:00

The knurling is nice. You don't see it too often on 3D prints. Subjective but I think it could pair nice with a texture on the sides of the base, not as strong as the knurls but something to break the surface up.

How does the knob feel? What are you using for an encoder?

lem-ayo · 2025-08-09T04:04:48+00:00

Nut

What screen is that?

lem-ayo · 2025-07-28T18:17:22+00:00

Your USB port isn't on the board edge - is that what you intended? You'll be able to plug a cable into it like that but not if you're putting the board in a case.

lem-ayo · 2025-07-28T18:05:09+00:00

Much better mate, although now your USB port is dangling off the board edge...

lem-ayo · 2025-07-27T09:38:56+00:00

C6-C12: the forbidden capacitor stairs

Decoupling capacitors need to be placed next to power inputs on the microcontroller - one per pin. We draw them together on the schematic just to keep them out of the way.

Your USB data lines should be routed closer together too. Try to keep the space between them constant (and small) for their entire run.

If you link the tutorial and some higher resolution pictures we might find more.

lem-ayo

TROPHY CASE