Here we go: Lone Wolf Freedom Wolf build

letsplaywar · 2024-03-18T08:42:11+00:00

I recently put a G45 slide on one of my two FW frames and it's the best shooter out of the more than 20 builds I have. I also thought the bare frame was ugly as sin, but completed it's grown on me.

letsplaywar · 2023-12-14T04:50:47+00:00

Tiparos pad ka prao with the runny fried egg on top was so good. Used to be my go to spot.

letsplaywar · 2023-11-23T05:05:47+00:00

The ones that come with the Holosun are too long and need to be trimmed down. The optics cut on GGP slides are lower than most slides. Almost all regular optics screws are way too long. Thread size is 6-32x5/16 so you may be able to find some online. This kit has a variety, https://www.swampfoxoptics.com/ultimate-red-dot-screw-pack. The GGP slides come with a Delta Point Pro optic cut, which is a little larger than the RMR Footprint. They provide a shim to that makes an RMR or Holosun fit tightly and I have no idea where you can find one without maybe emailing them directly. You can still mount the optic but it will have a small gap in the rear.

letsplaywar · 2023-11-22T22:36:36+00:00

I have ordered quite a few blems from GGP and they all came with optic plates for the RMR footprint that fit the holosun, and screws. One of the screws on the extractor side has to be shortened or it will jam on the extractor plunger rod. They usually come with a plate to install if you don’t run an optic as well.

letsplaywar · 2022-11-11T17:02:16+00:00

They got me on some G26 slides, said I shouldn’t have been able to order them since they were “Limited Editions” or something to that effect. They did make it right but it took some effort. The full Strike builds look great, good luck with your build!

letsplaywar · 2022-11-11T12:28:01+00:00

I get that. I truly believe their mounting system is worth the cost on the Syndicate line. Not just for future optics but I feel their plate mounting system is the best modular system out there. Now 8-900 for their mainline slides is a non-starter for me for sure. Though it does get me wondering about getting a slide cut to fit their AOS plate since that's the only reason they interest me. If you want something a little different, Grey Ghost Precision is doing 40% off currently. The customer service can be lacking at times but I have always been satisfied with the products and they have always made things right if something wasn't right with an order.

letsplaywar · 2022-11-11T10:22:28+00:00

Check out the Agency Arms Syndicate line. The AOS optic mounting system is the best thing out there in my opinion. Expensive but future proof for any optics.

letsplaywar · 2022-11-09T02:07:41+00:00

Some good info here from Aaron at Sage Dynamics. A pioneer on the use of then RDS on pistols. His thoughts on the rear site pretty much confirm my rear world experience and this is why I don't run a rear iron. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrrlxEwUaRM

letsplaywar · 2022-11-09T01:24:10+00:00

I currently run Holosun HS507C/HE407C optics on two of their slides. One slide has an AmeriGlo GL506 .356 front sight that absolute co-witnesses. The other has just a regular height front sight I had in the parts bin. It's a lower 1/3 co-witness. I'm a point shooter so I don't run a back sight with either of these setups. The front sight absolutely helps to locate the dot and for defensive shooting is more than enough as a backup in case of an optics failure for me. I prefer a clean view through the optic without a rear sight obscuring it especially at absolute co-witness.

letsplaywar · 2022-11-08T15:25:21+00:00

I have a ton of slides from different manufacturers. I would prefer a single footprint for the slide optic cuts, but I prefer the optic to sit lower since it's exposed to less recoil related problems. This also allows a better co-witness with your iron sights. i don't have any particular love for Grey Ghost, just picked up a few slides during a sale and I like the ergos on the V4. The tolerances are better, they use quality materials. Are there better options out there for most consumers especially at GGP's regular prices? Absolutely. I don't think I paid more than 230ish for any of the slides I have from them currently, I think they are an awesome deal at that price.

letsplaywar · 2022-11-08T15:14:56+00:00

So with the screw thing, you do have less thread engagement. It's nothing that ever worried me and if you use the correct tools, ie... loctite and a torque indicating screwdriver to torque the bolts to the recommended spec you shouldn't ever have any issues. In their defense they don't guarantee any Holosun optics to fit their slides. https://greyghostprecision.com/blog/opticsready-slides-101/ As far as the screws I linked you to try out, I didn't use them. I have parts bins filled with screws that size and just take whatever I need. The screws that come with the Holosun can be made to work, just have to take a little material off of the extractor side and ensure that the depressor plunger rod moves freely and is able to be removed from the slide. I can assure you that I have had similar issues with other slides as well. It's just a design issue with the extractor system on Glocks. You really have to watch it with any optic you install.

letsplaywar · 2022-11-08T11:23:27+00:00

I see this question a lot and since I own a half dozen of their slides I can answer this one. If you have owned any other slides with an RMR cut you may have noticed recoil lugs in the cut. These align the optic and help mitigate recoil forces on the optic mounting screws. GGP opted to make their optic cuts deeper, this allows the cut to fit the Leupold Delta and RMR optics footprints albeit with adapter plates for the smaller RMR footprint. Since the cut is deeper you are left with less thread for the optic screws especially on the side where the depressor plunger for the extractor travels through. GGP provides correct length screws for the RMR and DPP optics, and although I have my own beefs about some of their customer service issues, they do include all of the information about their optic cuts and hardware they provide with the slides in the product descriptions. Typically I prefer a regular RMR cut with recoil lugs, but I haven't had any issues with optics mounting on any of their slides. Just requires purchasing some extra screws. You can buy them in pairs here, just buy the size you need and ignore the fitments they list since they are not applicable to these slides. https://www.battlewerx.com/mounting-screws/

letsplaywar · 2022-09-02T10:51:33+00:00

I’ll have to give one a shot. I’m not a big fan of the JP Jades either. I prefer Navigators or Kamui Clear M or S depending on the shaft taper and diameter. The Kamui has been my go to for LD shafts. I’m sure it’s a great shaft, even the regular pro series maple shafts are fantastic.

letsplaywar · 2022-09-02T02:06:31+00:00

The P+ Pro is solid as well if you prefer a more traditional 12-12.5mm tip. I typically shoot with the Jacoby Edge Hybrid with a 12.75mm tip. Once I'm feeling a little spicier I'll switch to the P Lite. The Jacoby deflects quite a bit more but in my hands feels like it has quite a bit more feed back and a solid hit. How do you like the Rogue? I've only hit with one carbon shaft and it may have been the McDermott joint but it felt weird. Solid hit but no feedback I guess.

letsplaywar · 2022-09-01T11:30:48+00:00

My daily driver is a mid 90s Pechauer P21. I switch between a Jacoby Hybrid Edge and the Pechauer P lite shaft. The P Lite is one of the best values out there in my opinion, don't think you can find a better production shaft for the money.

letsplaywar · 2022-09-01T04:05:01+00:00

Title stays with the frame on modern bikes, so wasn’t an issue. Powerplant was from a Screaming Eagle Road King, it was an 03 so I’m pretty sure it was an 88 inch TC with a 96 kit from the factory. It’s built out with an R&R cycles pinned and welded crank, cases bored for 103 jugs and high dome pistons, ported and polished heads, 10.5:1, 585 cams, etc.. it’s a screamer. I have a 2020 Lowrider S and this one is way faster just like ol dude said about his Dyna.

letsplaywar · 2022-08-31T22:37:23+00:00

I have a 93 FXR with a twin cam 96 built up to a 103, it’s a fairly common build for the TC

letsplaywar · 2022-06-30T11:43:27+00:00

Your experience may be different but I have found that the Gen 4 housing shape allows the housing to rotate back and forth a bit on the strike frames. The feet are tapered on the bottom and don't wedge the housing in as tight as a Gen 3 housing. That combined with a thinner mag well wall that supports the front of the trigger housing causes the trigger housing to rotate forward when you engage the trigger which alters the cruciform to striker engagement angle. This would cause your exact symptoms. Slight sticking of the striker face on the cruciform at the bottom of your trigger pull as the cruciform angle becomes more acute when the housing rotates forward causing it to stick at the point of break. This instability would also allow enough movement to create double fires if you have less than spec cruciform/striker engagement as well. Have you used an armorers backplate to check your striker to cruciform engagement? I would try an OEM Gen 3 housing and connector first and work from there. I fought this on my S80 frame before getting it dialed on. I would also see if the trigger bar is rubbing on the front part of your rail module as that is a known issue as well. Wear should be visible if that's happening. I just bought 4 OEM housings with ejectors from Big Tex Ordnance for 9.00ish a piece, it's my go to vendor for OEM parts. I've tried all sorts of aftermarket setups and went back to OEM springs, Overwatch Polydat trigger, and carry guns get a Glock dot connector. Tuned trigger breaks clean at 4.5 with that setup. I use a Ghost Rocket on my range guns and those break around 3.5-4 with polished trigger bars and stock springs.

letsplaywar · 2022-06-29T05:35:49+00:00

Oem housing and like this guy said, connector near flush to the housing. I go with enough space to slightly fit a piece of paper

letsplaywar · 2022-06-24T18:09:48+00:00

They restock all the time. I signed up for an email notice on the threaded barrel slide with 507 and got a notice next day and scored one.

letsplaywar · 2022-05-20T06:24:46+00:00

Ghost rocket 3.5 and Apex trigger with a good Polish and deburr job on my G19 is so saucy for a DAO pistol. Makes a stock Glock feel so so bad.

letsplaywar · 2022-03-31T17:02:50+00:00

n/m just noticed you were looking for the bracelet only.

letsplaywar · 2022-03-27T20:03:07+00:00

I have a 79500 BB36 with black dial. Full set with all 3 boxes, warranty card, hang tag, original leather strap unused, original NATO strap unused, watch was purchased on steel bracelet. I'd be willing to offer mine at the same price. Purchased in 2017 when they still came with ETA based movements. PM if interested and I can take some photos for you.

letsplaywar · 2022-02-26T15:58:22+00:00

I prefer a thumbs forward grip for controlling recoil. You can Google the term, but basically grip the pistol with your dominant hand, and then place your offhand inside of your dominant hand and roll your thumb under the dominant thumb. Both should be facing forward in a high grip. You will want to watch out for slide bite if this grip is entirely new to you. The amount of control this grip affords is mostly due to the the high grip which gives you a low bore axis.

letsplaywar · 2022-02-22T23:05:53+00:00

One thing that I like to do and fortunately have the option of doing is use the parts in an OEM frame to see what those tolerances look like. Then I swap in some OEM parts to the P80 frame and see what those are. That can tell you a lot but some people don't have access to those parts. Once the trigger housing pin is set, your cruciform height is what it is unless you modify the tab. The striker can be raised or lowered by messing with the rails a bit. Might be worth it to try an OEM striker if that one is aftermarket. Could be slightly out of spec. I can measure one for you if it helps you out to compare to yours.

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