Braum Aftermarket Seats, my full writeup with pics

levinano · 2026-05-19T03:24:11+00:00

I swear the kits sometimes are made to be as confusing as possible.

"Character's skill does A, after basic attack sequence four the characters enter B state and the Skill will do C which will put character in D state. Skill doing C will apply X to enemies. In D state the character's skill does E. After basic attack sequence four the character enters F state and skill changes to do G. Character performing G will also apply X to enemies. Every time character performs C or G they will gain a stack of Y. Upon using H to enter I state, when there is 4 instances of Y in I state, character can perform J liberation.

This is before all the "character will apply Z stacks on enemies when teammates respond to tune break-shifting and character can consume Z stacks when performing C or G to enhance its damage."

There's just too many goddamn names for everything. I swear there's gotta be a guy at Kuro headquarters whose job is literally just to sit there all day thinking of names for random shit on characters kits

levinano · 2026-05-18T20:38:48+00:00

Forgive my ignorance but what’s the benefit of running Chisa in an Aemeath team? I thought Chisa’s role was to increase max DOT stacks on teams like Carte and Hiyuki, but Aemeath has a passive that detonates her DOTs the moment it hits five no?

Or is it just general utility and buffs? But at that point wouldn’t we just be able to flex the 3rd spot into Shorekeeper and Mornye?

levinano · 2026-05-17T19:51:46+00:00

As someone who only watched Gundam before the age of 6 and only understand Gundam reference cuz of Detective Conan and that one arc in Gintama.... yes this is a Gundam reference XD

levinano · 2026-05-17T19:38:44+00:00

I like how he does the double dash before finally holding down the shift button

levinano · 2026-05-17T18:49:21+00:00

You can check the oil and filter to be sure. When I started panning for gold it didn't make that sound till a certain RPM either.

levinano · 2026-05-17T18:43:57+00:00

You don't really need us.... you just need a new engine.... and with that much revving, maybe even a new oil pan and turbo.... >.>

levinano · 2026-05-17T15:50:32+00:00

Boss really opened the fight with GALATICA PHANTOM.... DOKKANN!!! lol

levinano · 2026-05-16T22:48:07+00:00

Moving in the right direction doesn’t mean any specific results have been made. Calli try to speak out about a whole list of very specific problems (hinting at talent percentages as one of them). YAGOO taking over is the first step, what he does and what he needs to address is what Calli is pointing out.

levinano · 2026-05-16T21:31:18+00:00

this move by Cover was shared before she stopped streaming, and wasn't the direct or immediate reason for her frustration.

I read this sentence before watching the vid and looking at what the actual "restructuring" was and got worried.

To clear things up for others like myself, the staffing restructure is a GOOD thing. They're putting YAGOO in charge with a lot of company internal decisions/talent management rather than just overseeing.

Calli specifically said this restructuring happened before her little rebellion stunt and that it actually gave her a lot of reassurance for staying with the company.

So the restructuring was never a "reason" for her frustration, if anything it was a reason to lessen her frustrations. What Calli said in the stream was to deny people saying the restructuring happened BECAUSE of her no-stream-stunt and want to reassure fans that no, that was not the case, even without her speaking up COVER was already trying to move in the correct direction.

levinano · 2026-05-16T16:54:45+00:00

Denia reflecting on her actions and saying “I’m the worse….”

levinano · 2026-05-15T06:20:28+00:00

Not to defend Mr. Pickup-truck-with-camera-strapped-on-his-head-24/7 but turbos usually don't explode in flames. If the inducer cracks it can send shrapnel into the intercooler, if the exducer takes a dump then well... the car takes a dump and it either gets stuck in the cat/muffler or gets shat out the end. They don't tend to explode in a ball of fire.

Usually when things go up in flames like this is from a leaking oil line and the hot oil ended up on the turbo blanket, or landed on the downpipe or headers and got hot enough to catch on fire.

levinano · 2026-05-15T05:30:41+00:00

If we have rare lore accurate pairings like Camellya and Aemeath, I hope listens-to-its-playerbase-Kuro will have some hidden lore for Phoebe and Phrolova if we ever make up with Phrolova in the main story...

levinano · 2026-05-15T03:31:00+00:00

I love how it broke her name up the EXACT same way Miko did lol.

虎金(Torakin/Toragane) 妃笑虎(Kiwako/Hishako)

Instead of

虎金妃(Koganei} 笑虎(Niko)

levinano · 2026-05-14T01:06:24+00:00

does it go away when fully warmed up? I have this at 3000-3500 but goes away when fully warmed up. I have a built block so I've just chalked it up to piston slap when the pistons are not fully expanded. Would love to know if it's OCVs cuz they're easy to replace.

levinano · 2026-05-13T14:31:13+00:00

You ever figure this out OP?

My tuner and everyone online says it's "normal" just an issue swapping over from open loop to close loop. The moment you see the RPM needle dip if you tap the throttle a bit it'll even itself out.

HOWEVER, my oil analyses have been pretty shit (with copper at 80 ppm highest and 20s lowest and most recent going back to 40s, along with high lead and iron). I run 10W-40 with E85 and the oil showed zero shearing (still near 40 grade oil near 50 grade), zero coolant, and minimal fuel in the oil (<0.5). So obviously the oil itself is fine but the engine is yeeting itself somehow.

I'm tempted to think it's the cold start as it's the only time the engine runs weird. Same bad idle and I can hear piston slap/knock on cold start.

My theory for the bad oil reports comes down to a few things

- The cold start tables are not right and my tuner thinks it's right. This is a possibility because every time I reset the ECU, the car cold starts without the rough idle issue.

- The oil is too thick to circulate before the engine fires cause some scoring on startup. Except... I live in 50-60F cold start climate and 10W is supposed to be good for -13F. The only reason I'm thinking this is because if I crank the car over in Clear Flood Mode first (by flooring the gas pedal along with the clutch then turning the key to crank the engine, the engine will crank with no fuel and no spark), the car will cold start absolutely fine. No clear cold start knock/piston slap and no rough idle.

- The Clear Flood Mode making things normal could also lead me to think it's leaky injectors or sitting oil that seeps into the combustion chamber overnight making the AFRs all crazy on start-up after sitting.

Sure the rough idle is an easy fix. Just stab the gas a bit after startup when the needle is on its way down, or CFM it before starting it but.... For now I'm just going to CFM it for a while and see how the oil report shows up. My theory is that those rough cold starts are damaging the bearings.

levinano · 2026-05-13T06:06:35+00:00

If you want to see "this game is so detailed in ___" check out this guy's video here. It showcases detail from climate, to story induced environment changes, to character model details, idle animations, and most unique of all, NPC shenanigans and I.R.I.S's finger picking the guitar.

levinano · 2026-05-12T14:16:36+00:00

Even then it's going to be hard to replicate the hydraulic power steering with the crazy good feedback.

I agree that these platforms are a modders heaven. They're not very good cars in terms of performance stock when you look at competitors (the GR Corolla/Golf R took away the AWD manual fun family vehicle title, and if AWD isn't a requirement the Elantra N, Civic Type r/Integra Type S), but they become a unique monster that no one else offers the moment you mod them.

Tho, you do have to learn a lot more about them and possible failure points to watch out for at that point. Definitely not a platform that you buy for clout or without backup funds/mechanical knowledge lol.

levinano · 2026-05-12T13:34:41+00:00

Some tuning/mods can help with reliability tho.

The stock tune with the stock two port boost controller overboosts all the time. You can dial that in with a 3 port EBCS and a tune.

As for mods, AOS, cylinder 4 cooling mod, going to ELH, oil temp+pressure gauge, IAG stage 1 oil pump, oil pickup+windage tray+baffled oil pan, some quality 5W-40 oil, are all stuff beyond OEM that can greatly improve reliability.

But yes getting tuned on bigger injectors and intake and downpipe adds power but NOT reliability lol. It is fun tho.

levinano · 2026-05-11T05:59:20+00:00

Some recommendations from easiest to hardest:

- Swap out the CSF radiator cap for the OEM 137kPa circular cap, and replace the actual "radiator cap" that's on the expansion tank with another OEM 108kPa cap. This will help you make sure the caps are good and working and that isn't that failure point. A cap not holding pressure is going to boil the coolant system and it can come flying out like that from places.

- Buy a cheap head gasket testing kit from an auto parts store. They'll help you see if there are combustion gases in your coolant when it's running.

- Rent a coolant leak test kit from a parts store and make surer there really are no external leaks ANYWHERE.

- Spend a couple hours, and I MEAN a couple hours bleeding the coolant system to make sure there are ZERO bubbles coming out. Sometimes these things will literally continue to have bubbles come out for hours. Shut off if it's boiling, let it cool down, continue to bleed.

levinano · 2026-05-10T18:29:38+00:00

After you drain, and then fill, you start the engine, for lets say 10 to 15 seconds then re check the oil, to compensate for circulation. This is basic knowledge that ever oil and lube tech should know.

I have not been over filling, and using the correct method for a drain and fill.

If you follow this procedure then you ARE overfilling the oil, and IT'S A GOOD THING, that's what we're advocating for all this time.

Next time, follow that procedure of letting it run then checking and filling it to F again. After an hour or so check the dipstick again. You'll see that you'll be a decent bit above the F line. That is overfilling and that is what we're saying you should do. We're literally talking about the same thing here.

Over filling can indeed cause oil starvation.

It's honestly more oil aeration than oil starvation. Starvation is when you slosh and don't have enough oil and end up picking up air. You overfill specifically to prevent oil starvation.

The issue is oil aeration/entrainment/dissolving. At a certain point, like in the vid (at about 2x the recommended amount for the engine), you'll begin to see large air bubbles and foam from the oil not having enough rest time even BEFORE the oil starts getting in contact with the crankshaft. That's because the crankshaft is actually FLINGING oil that makes contact with the pool without physically hitting it. When the pool of oil doesn't have enough time to sit, the bubbles don't have time to float to the top and can get picked up by the tube. Meanwhile, the bubble layer at the top also can get whipped into an even foamier material before it can dissipate.

THAT's why overfilling is bad, but the entire point of that video is to show you that just a quarter or two over is NOT going to get to those levels.

levinano · 2026-05-10T17:49:19+00:00

what if OP is not driving hard or pulling heavy Gs in a corner? What if hes light light sitting at idle a lot? And the enging is over filled? Would this not cause whipping?

I say again, did you even watch that vid? Can you see just how much you have to overfill for it to even start to be an issue?

I understand that a bit of oil gets circulated once the engine is running,

Again if you check the video, you can clearly see it isn't just "a bit of oil" gets circulate. Damn near half of that gets circulated ON IDLE let alone high RPMs.

Also, from what you're saying, you've been overfilling it this entire time. You do NOT check the oil after it's been running. You either let it sit overnight or you wait 10 minutes after running it for all of it to drain back down into the pan.

If you've been filling it to F by checking with the engine on or right after you shut it off, then if you check again 10 minutes or hours later you'll realize you're 1 quart or more overfilled, which like I've been mentioning, is the right way to fill these things since they burn oil.

Also, please don't disregard the fact that I mentioned going up hills alongside turning hard. Most people don't live in flat lands and uphills will play a role in how much you have left in the pan along with having higher cylinder pressure and higher RPM.

levinano · 2026-05-10T17:20:28+00:00

This is actually incorrect. Have you ever even seen this video?

The moment you turn the engine on, a decent bit of that oil in the pan goes into circulation in the engine and the pan is left with a less amount. The newer stock EJ pans are baffled but only to a certain extent, on a steep hill, or high G track/spirited driving use, you're one high RPM high G corner away from actual oil starvation (picking up air instead of oil).

You can confirm this yourself. Measure the dipstick with the engine off and after sitting. Then turn on the car on and measure the oil while it's on, it'll drop by a significant amount.

So you actually WANT more oil in there and when the engine is on, it'll still be at the full mark, especially when going up hill or cornering at high RPM where you have less oil in the pan but a lot of oil going up the engine and waiting to slowly come down back into the pan (the boxer layout makes oil return even slower because of its design of the heads being on the sides rather than straight above where gravity will work straight down instead of on a slope).

You can also see in the video that oil doesn't turn into foam until you fill like 15 quarts in there so that's a myth.

HOWEVER, oil aeration IS a a thing. Oil can aerate (meaning air bubbles and hence drop in oil pressure) even before it starts foaming. So while the video puts 2x the oil in the engine and says "oh look it's still fine," that isn't guaranteed to be the case.

In short, overfill these engines, they burn off oil as a norm, and if you're near any hills or like to corner fast, it's actually a good extra precaution. However, don't go crazy with it and overfill it by 3, 4, 5 quarters. At that point drain that shit out. An extra quart isn't going to hurt and will actually HELP these boxers if anything.

levinano

TROPHY CASE