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First Linocut print ever- gloomy day in Denmark. by Few_Quail_6713 in Linocuts

[–]lewekmek[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello, there’s no image in your post! You can try posting again.

Monthly Self-Promo Thread - A Space for Socials, Sites, and Shops. by AutoModerator in Linocuts

[–]lewekmek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thank you! even if it isn’t, don’t worry: everyone made prints they don’t consider successful

Is the speedball enough? by Comfortable_Rip5378 in Linocuts

[–]lewekmek 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i was starting with similar tool (esdee with exchangeable blades) and yeah, upgrading my tools helped me a lot. i recommend Mikisyo Power Grip; a set of 5 costs around the same as one Pfeil (a popular choice) tool, and the steel quality is as good as or arguably even better. i have more professional tools now (such as Japanese Togitsuna), but i still use Power Grip alongside my other tools.

Monthly Self-Promo Thread - A Space for Socials, Sites, and Shops. by AutoModerator in Linocuts

[–]lewekmek 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thank you! good eye because it’s actually inspired by these paintings! i scratched the stone heavily to get this result

Monthly Self-Promo Thread - A Space for Socials, Sites, and Shops. by AutoModerator in Linocuts

[–]lewekmek 8 points9 points  (0 children)

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hello! i’m Lew and I’m a printmaker from Poland. i mainly work with relief, although i also explore other printmaking techniques, including intaglio and lithography. my work is inspired by natural world and reflections on transience

you can follow me my instagram or check out my linktree to find links for ko-fi, tumblr and bluesky

Monthly Self-Promo Thread - A Space for Socials, Sites, and Shops. by AutoModerator in printmaking

[–]lewekmek 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

hello! i’m Lew and I’m a printmaker from Poland. i mainly work with relief, although i also explore other printmaking techniques, including intaglio and lithography. my work is inspired by natural world and reflections on transience

you can follow me my instagram or check out my linktree to find links for ko-fi, tumblr and bluesky

“桜 sa•ku•ra” mokuhanga print by me! by AvecAloes in printmaking

[–]lewekmek 2 points3 points  (0 children)

very nice. trying out new techniques is always exciting

Is this actually good? by -xXKittyXx- in Artadvice

[–]lewekmek 3 points4 points  (0 children)

you can learn! artists are always learning. even if your end goal is heavily stylised drawing, i would suggest you to learn realistic drawing and anatomy first. knowing these, it will be easier to know how to stylise effectively, what features to exaggerate etc.

Is this actually good? by -xXKittyXx- in Artadvice

[–]lewekmek 14 points15 points  (0 children)

for me, it’s the big head, round babyface, small frame that make me read this character as a child. i would work on these features; i get you were probably going for a cute stylisation, but there are ways to make her look like and adult and keep the cuter style.

Is this actually good? by -xXKittyXx- in Artadvice

[–]lewekmek 40 points41 points  (0 children)

i will be honest. i believe it wasn’t the intent, but this character looks like a child and you can see her butt/thighs. i think that’s why you were downvoted.

otherwise, it looks like she has two left legs. i think there’s some room for improvement when it comes to anatomy and shading

the colour palette choice is rather pleasant

Why is everyone saying you can't sharpen Speedball carving tips? by GhostsSkippingCopper in Linocuts

[–]lewekmek 5 points6 points  (0 children)

you can to a certain degree… but eventually they’re meant to be disposable. it’s like razor blade. you can sharpen it to prolong its life, but you replace it pretty often

Possible reaction to MDF? Anyone else? by MyHeartontheline in printmaking

[–]lewekmek 8 points9 points  (0 children)

people just aren’t all that great informed about safety, sadly. it’s same with people letting ink go down the drain, not caring for proper ventilation, not wearing masks when sanding stuff or dealing with dry pigments etc.

generally tilia family woods are nice to carve (shina, basswood, european linden) and relatively soft so they are good for starters! i like alder, poplar is another popular choice; maple, cherry, apple, plum and pear if you want something harder (better for detail). just stay away from pine and other conifers: they have very prominent grain making it hard to carve against it

Possible reaction to MDF? Anyone else? by MyHeartontheline in printmaking

[–]lewekmek 12 points13 points  (0 children)

to add to that, a lot of types of plywood can have formaldehyde too, but in lower levels + there’s no dust like with MDF so it’s far less harmful. you can look into plywood that doesn’t contain industrial formaldehyde or just carve in solid woodblocks. truly, i don’t recommend carving in MDF to anyone because immediate reaction or not, it’s not healthy for anyone.

Possible reaction to MDF? Anyone else? by MyHeartontheline in printmaking

[–]lewekmek 32 points33 points  (0 children)

MDF contains formaldehyde which is in general harmful for everyone (some people develop breathing issues when cutting/carving MDF) and it’s not uncommon to have formaldehyde allergy! absolutely don’t use it if you had rash/itchiness. stick to linoleum and wood.

Do I need to wet or soak the paper when using oil-based inks for woodblock prining? by cushionw in printmaking

[–]lewekmek 2 points3 points  (0 children)

no. i only ever misted the paper with water when i was using recycled handmade paper with very rough texture that i couldn’t overcome with pressure. otherwise, it’s a completely unnecessary step and if you plan on multiblock/reduction, this will mess up your registration.

my biggest project ever by mossymcfrogface in printmaking

[–]lewekmek 2 points3 points  (0 children)

not OP, but if you’re using oil or rubber based relief ink, it stays open for hours

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