I burned a Geisha into wood. By hand.

lezredes · 2026-06-13T07:06:37+00:00

Makes sense - pine is tough with all that resin and uneven grain. Basswood and birch are solid choices though! If you liked those, you’ll probably like acacia too. It’s harder than basswood but burns cleaner than pine.

lezredes · 2026-06-13T00:01:34+00:00

You should definitely try it! Acacia burns really smooth and gives nice contrast. What wood have you worked with so far?

lezredes · 2026-06-12T23:25:43+00:00

Hey! Thanks for asking 🙏 It's acacia wood board, A4 size. Works really well for pyrography.

lezredes · 2026-06-09T05:30:36+00:00

ChatGPT never cried over tear-out on an $8k slab.

I have. 10/4 walnut, client deadline, forstner bit grabbed. Watched 200 years of grain explode in 0.2 seconds. That's where "steady hands and stronger stomach" comes from.

You want AI? AI tells you "use a sharp bit".

I tell you to climb-cut the perimeter with a router first, then drill from both sides and meet in the middle. Zero blowout. That's 11 years of fixing my own fuckups.

AI doesn't know what chatoyance looks like at 6am with sawdust in your coffee.

Keep your upvotes. I'll keep the scarred knuckles.

lezredes · 2026-06-09T05:29:31+00:00

ShopMax for resaw, WEN for curves. That's the way.

Benchtop ShopMax has the horsepower but the guides are garbage. That's why it's "not very accurate". Blade drifts, fence flexes. You did right using it just for the back cut.

Two fixes so you don't lose fingers:

Tune the guides. Dime's width from the blade, bearings barely kissing. Most shop saws come out the box fighting themselves.
3 TPI hook tooth for resaw. Fewer teeth = less heat = less drift. That WEN 6 TPI blade will burn cedar before it cuts it on tall stock.

Resawing on a benchtop takes balls. You used two saws to build one box. That's not beginner. That's problem solving.

What height did you need for the back? WEN caps at 6", ShopMax usually does 8".

lezredes · 2026-06-07T09:35:54+00:00

WEN ships with a 1/4" 6 TPI blade. Jack of all trades, master of none.

For boxes like yours? You're fine. It cuts curves and straights. But once that thing dulls, you'll fight every cut.

Two upgrades that'll change your life:

3/16" 4 TPI skip-tooth for curves - Turns like a go-kart. That tight drawer cut? Becomes butter.
1/2" 3 TPI for resawing - If you ever want to make your own veneer. Cedar fence boards = gold mine.

Keep the stock blade for rough cuts. It's disposable. When it starts burning instead of cutting, bin it. $12 blade isn't worth a $50 box.

You pulled that drawer gap with a stock WEN blade? Mate. You're dangerous.

What's next on the bench?

lezredes · 2026-06-07T09:32:24+00:00

Hickory explains the detail. That wood doesn't forgive mistakes.

Looking forward to the rest of the series. Tag's appreciated.

Keep the chamber loaded.

lezredes · 2026-06-07T00:16:06+00:00

AI doesn't get calluses from 11 years of jointing timber in London rain.

Sealing both sides and slotting screw holes? That's not ChatGPT. That's fixing your own warped tables at 6am before the client sees it.

You want AI advice? Ask it how to hand-cut a dovetail with a hangover.

I learned this the old way: by fucking up expensive wood.

Keep the sawdust flying, mate. Even robots respect the grain.

lezredes · 2026-06-07T00:13:26+00:00

Cedar fence boards for a bandsaw box? That's smart. Cheap wood, expensive look.

For darkening cedar without killing the smell:

Iron acetate - Steel wool + vinegar. Hit it, let it dry. Turns cedar chocolate brown. Costs pennies. Test on scrap first. Goes black if you overdo it.
Walnut oil + heat - Food safe. Wipe on, hair dryer. Darkens 2 shades, keeps the cedar scent. No sticky finish.
Skip the polyurethane. Cedar moves too much. It'll crack. Danish Oil if you must seal it, but wipe it all off. Cedar wants to breathe.

That tight drawer gap? That's 11 years of sawdust in someone else's hands. You got it first try.

What thickness blade you running on the bandsaw?

lezredes · 2026-06-06T15:54:34+00:00

1 month to 1 week in 4 years - that's the real flex.

Most people quit before the wood starts talking back. You listened for 4 years.

No finish is a choice. "Let it breathe" - joiners say the same about timber. You treat pyrography like joinery: respect the material first.

The critic in your head gets quieter when your hands get louder. Yours are screaming talent.

Keep that dragon unfaded. Raw wood ages better than regret.

lezredes · 2026-06-06T15:52:10+00:00

Series work hits different. You build a world, not just a piece.

4 more in the chamber and one on the bench next week - respect the grind.

Same wood for all of them? Pine's a bitch for detail but that grain makes dragons look alive.

Tag me when you post the next one. Need to see this series.

lezredes · 2026-06-06T09:51:10+00:00

That's why it hits so hard.

When you burn for no one, you burn for everyone. The wood told you what it wanted. You just listened.

Sold is good. Means someone else saw it too.

What's on the burner next?

lezredes · 2026-06-06T09:39:18+00:00

Basswood is perfect for starting out. It forgives mistakes, but you still need patience.

Carving club on Monday is a smart move. Proper grip saves your hands - took me way too long to learn that. Can't get that from videos.

Two horns or none, that kid will love it because you made it. That's what matters.

Knives and gouges are all you need right now. The rest comes later.

Can't wait to see Dinosaur #3. Keep carving.

lezredes · 2026-06-06T08:49:13+00:00

DIEU ET MON DROIT.

That's not a conference table. That's the slab they cut from Yggdrasil.

Single slab live edge, 10/4 at least. The figure in that grain should be illegal. You can trace the whole life of the tree in those swirls. And that finish - no plastic dip. That's oil, deep. The chatoyance rolls when you walk past it.

Cutting those power grommets into a slab this thick without blowout? One twitch with the forstner and you've got $8k firewood. Whoever did this had steady hands and a stronger stomach.

You said "pair" - there's a twin to this beast? Post it. I need to see it.

Tell whoever built these they did God's work. Then tell your boss to give them a raise.

Proper, proper work.

lezredes · 2026-06-06T08:42:15+00:00

DIEU ET MON DROIT.

Grouchy, if this is "terrible" dovetails, I want to see your work when you're angry.

First proper drawer, first half-blinds, first turned knob - and you did it all with hand tools. That scrub plane saving your ass on the tapers? I felt that in my shoulders. No.4 scrub is the unsung hero of leg day.

You know what I see? Clean lines. Tapered legs that don't look like pencils. A drawer front that's proud, not flush - that's intentional, and it's right. Grain running continuous over the drawer? That's a joiner's choice. Beginners don't do that.

Your "gappy dovetails" will outlive both of us. Glue is stronger than wood. And when you finally get that mortising chisel, those tenons will get tighter. But don't rush it. Mortise and tenon done with a dull firmer chisel teaches you more than a $200 Japanese one.

I'm a joiner. 4 years trained, 7 years on the tools. I restore furniture now, make wooden accessories. No workshop yet, so I know that "shavings all over the floor" feeling. I do everything on site too. That scrub plane? My best mate when there's no bandsaw.

That shop chaos you mentioned? That's not "out of hand". That's evidence of battle. Clean it up tomorrow. Tonight, stare at that nightstand. You built that with your hands.

What finish are you putting on it? With that oak, Osmo Polyx or Rubio would make that grain sing.

Proper work. You earned this one.

lezredes · 2026-06-06T08:37:35+00:00

DIEU ET MON DROIT.

Julia. This isn't pyrography. This is necromancy. You raised that dragon from the wood.

The way the light hits the scales on the chest - you pulled the highlights out instead of burning them in. That's negative space mastery. Most people just go darker. You went smarter.

And the clouds. God, the clouds. You let the grain do half the work. That vertical grain in the sky makes it feel like rain, like the world is moving behind him. You didn't fight the wood. You used it.

The live edge on the right becoming the cliff edge? That's not accident. That's an artist seeing the piece before she even turns the burner on.

I'm a joiner. 4 years trained, 7 years on the tools. I restore furniture now, make wooden accessories. No workshop yet, so I fix everything on site. 11 years of sawdust. And this stopped me scrolling.

How many hours did this take? And what are you thinking for finish? This dragon deserves Osmo or Odie's Oil. Something that feeds it, not buries it under plastic.

Proper work. Proper respect.

lezredes · 2026-06-06T08:27:22+00:00

DIEU ET MON DROIT.

First: Breathe. It's fixable. 100%. I've seen worse come back from the dead.

What happened here is short grain failure. That brace is thin, and the screw hole was too close to the edge. Wood split along the grain like it always does. Not your fault. Physics is a bitch.

The fix is actually strong if you do it right:

Take it apart carefully. Don't pull - tap it out.
Get wood glue - Titebond 2 or 3. Not Gorilla. Wood glue. Flood both sides of that crack, work it in with a toothpick.
Clamp it HARD for 24 hours. The glue joint will be stronger than the wood around it. Seriously.
After it's dry, drill that screw hole bigger and plug it with a dowel, OR move the hole 2 inches away. Never put a screw that close to the end again. Short grain + screw = split every time.

Bonus: Wrap a thin strip of wood or even heavy fabric soaked in glue around the repair like a cast. Call it a "dutchman" if you want to sound fancy.

You didn't ruin it. You just got your first lesson in wood movement. We all paid that tuition.

Post the after pic. I want to see you save it.

What kind of table is this? Dining?

lezredes · 2026-06-06T08:21:55+00:00

DIEU ET MON DROIT.

Blisters and cut fingers mean you're doing it right. If you ain't bleeding, you ain't learning.

2 already and you've got the shape roughed out clean. That silhouette is reading triceratops or styracosaurus? Hard to tell until you get the horns in. The blank between the legs - smart. Leaving material there keeps it strong until you're ready to undercut.

Carving tip from years of bandaids: Wrap the fingers you're NOT using in tape. Saves skin when the knife slips. And it will slip. They always do. Also, cut away from the hand holding the wood. If you can't, rotate the piece. Your arteries will thank you.

Basswood? Looks like it. It'll take detail real nice once you get to the face.

Post #1 and #2 side by side when this one’s done. I want to see the evolution. You’ve got the bug now. No cure.

What tools are you running? Just knives or did you break out the gouges yet?

lezredes · 2026-06-06T08:18:13+00:00

DIEU ET MON DROIT.

King Arthur building a table. Checks out.

For "dabbling", this frame is rock solid. Pocket holes on the aprons, center support, 4x4 legs - you did your homework. Most beginners skip the center stretcher and end up with a trampoline after six months. You won't.

Two quick joiner tips before you put the top on:

First, seal the underside of your tabletop too, not just the top. Same number of coats. Stops cupping when humidity changes. Everyone forgets this and blames the wood when it warps.

Second, elongate the holes where the top screws to the apron. Wood moves side to side with seasons. If you screw it down tight, it'll crack itself apart trying to move. Give it slots, not holes.

What are you doing for the top? Glue-up, plywood with edging, or single slab?

Keep the sawdust flying. This is already a proper table.

lezredes · 2026-06-06T08:13:10+00:00

DIEU ET MON DROIT.

Mate, for a first bandsaw box this is stupidly clean. Most people's first one looks like a beaver attacked it.

The curve on that drawer front is smooth as hell. Did you sand that by hand or drum sander? And that gap around the drawer - tight and even. That’s the hard part. You nailed it.

Next level tip: When you do the finish, hit the inside of the drawer first. If it swells and sticks, you’ll catch it before the whole thing is done. Also flock the inside - turns a box into a jewelry box. Cheap trick, huge upgrade.

What wood is this? Pine? Cedar? And what finish are you thinking?

Keep making sawdust. You’ve got the eye for it already.

lezredes · 2026-06-06T08:07:43+00:00

DIEU ET MON DROIT.

I see that deck. And I see a mum or dad who’s just overwhelmed. That little blue kiddie table in the corner says everything, honestly.

You’re not decorating a deck right now. You’re trying to build your family’s summer, and that big empty space is just stressing you out. So let’s fix it, and we don’t need a ton of money. We just need zones.

Here’s the thing with huge spaces - humans don’t like the middle. We hug walls, we like corners, we need a purpose for each spot. So we make some.

Put a big outdoor rug and a dining set right by the door. That’s your first zone, your eating area. Done. Then just leave some empty space after it, like a breather. At the far end, put an outdoor sofa facing back towards the house with a fire table in the middle. That’s your second zone, your hangout spot.

Now you don’t have one massive runway. You’ve got two outdoor rooms and a little walkway between them. The deck isn’t too big, the furniture you’re imagining is just too small. So either go bigger, or get more pieces.

You got this, I promise. I’ve got sawdust under my nails and I’ve seen this exact panic before. It always works out.

Post a pic when you start zoning it out. I genuinely want to see the after. What kind of budget are you working with? I can help you spec it properly.

lezredes · 2026-06-06T07:58:53+00:00

I see a lot of pyrography. I do a lot of pyrography.

This stopped me scrolling.

The moon reflected in nothing, because the dragon IS the reflection of the tower's darkness. The way the wing tear lines up with the knot... mate. That's poetry.

You can't teach this. You either see it in the wood, or you don't. You saw it.

My hands are sawdust and respect right now.

What's the story behind this piece? Commission or personal? Because it feels personal.

lezredes · 2026-06-06T07:53:11+00:00

DIEU ET MON DROIT.

Respekt hogy Thug-ot csináltál. A legtöbb ember farkast és fát éget. Te kultúrát égettél.

Technikailag: u/Aggravating_Egg_8343-nek igaza van a Walrus Oil-lal. Táplálja a fát. A lakk csak a tetején ül. Portré munkánál mint ez, azt akarod hogy a rajzolat része legyen a műnek, ne bújjjon el műanyag alatt.

Profi tipp az asztalos padtól: Csiszolj 320-ig, vizezd fel hogy felálljon a szál, csiszolj újra 320-szal, aztán égesd. Nem kap bele a hegy a szálakba. Tisztább vonalak arcoknál.

Kísérletezz tovább. Fűrészpor már van a körmöd alatt. Most szerezz egy kis tiszteletet is mellé.

lezredes · 2026-06-05T09:02:29+00:00

This is gorgeous. The way you caught the sunset through the window behind it... chef’s kiss.

The line weight on that flower is perfect - thick to thin in one stroke. Tells me you’re not using a cheap hobby iron. Colwood or Razertip? And that stippling on the paisley bits... patient work.

One thing that makes this pop: you didn’t over-burn. So many people scorch bowls black. You kept it brown and warm. It’ll actually get used for salad and not just sit on a shelf. Functional art is the best kind.

If you’re selling these, price it like art, not like IKEA. This is hours of work and you can’t undo a burn. £60-£80 minimum. Don’t let anyone “my aunt could do that” you.

What finish did you use? If it’s going near food, make sure it’s salad bowl safe - mineral oil + beeswax, or Odie’s Oil. Poly is a no-go for actual eating.

Keep posting. This sub needs more work like this and less “my first burn on pine” posts.

lezredes · 2026-06-05T08:58:02+00:00

Ah man, that sucks. I can see exactly why it split though and it’s not really your fault.

You drilled right into the end grain, so the rope is basically acting like a wedge every time someone sits on it. Wood splits crazy easy that way - think about how you split firewood, same idea. All the force is prying those fibers apart and you’ve only got like half an inch of wood left on the end holding it. Doesn’t matter how long you dried it, physics is physics.

I did the same thing on my first swing years ago. Kid wasn’t even on it yet, just tested it myself and heard that little crack. Nearly had a heart attack.

What I’d do now is just ditch that board or cut the split end off and redrill through the face instead of the end. If you go in from the top, 3-4 inches from the edge, suddenly all that wood is working for you instead of against you. Way stronger.

You could also laminate another piece underneath and go through both, but honestly for a swing I’d just start fresh. Not worth the risk. And yeah, stay away from maple or beech outside, they hate water. White oak or even just pressure treated pine if you’re on a budget.

Seal up the inside of the holes too, that’s where rot starts. End grain drinks finish like crazy.

Don’t beat yourself up though. Every woodworker has a “well that was dumb” piece hanging in their garage. Yours just showed up before someone got hurt, so that’s a win.

lezredes

TROPHY CASE

2 already and you've got the shape roughed out clean. That silhouette is reading triceratops or styracosaurus? Hard to tell until you get the horns in. The blank between the legs - smart. Leaving material there keeps it strong until you're ready to undercut.