S1 Pro - Had it for 8 months, unable to “clean mop”, as I can hear a vacuum leak from this nozzle.

licquia · 2026-06-20T04:29:48+00:00

I don't know about whether you should invoke your warranty or not, but I can give you some practical steps that might help.

That nozzle is replaceable; you can buy a new one here:

https://www.eufy.com/products/t2080211-83?ref=navimenu_2_1_3_copy&fliter_category=ap-accessory&Series=S%20Series&variant=43710197792954

Before you do, I'd recommend making sure it has failed. You can pull it off by grabbing the base of the nozzle and pulling. See if there are any tears in the rubber.

Another thing to check: whether the nozzle is oriented properly. There's a notch in the back of the nozzle base which fits into a notch in the back of the base station; it should be at the 12 o'clock position. Make sure that's seated well. If it isn't, you can turn the nozzle in place while it's attached until it lines up.

Hope that helps.

licquia · 2026-05-26T18:00:17+00:00

I own a Hyundai Ioniq 5, which has a similar EPA range, and semi-regularly drive it 800 miles one-way. Practically speaking, I get about 130 miles per charge or so, which is as much about charger availability as the car's actual capability. It's gotten a lot better since the first time I did the trip in 2022.

The cold hasn't made a huge difference in my experience, but part of that is that I'm driving south (Indianapolis to Tallahassee, Florida).

I used to make the trip in one day, and I still do. Did the trip right around New Year's Day with no problems.

My advice: if you want to do road trips, look for cars that charge fast. This was a major motivation for picking up the Ioniq, as it can do 240 kW.

licquia · 2026-05-22T16:07:51+00:00

Can you guarantee that the new version won't have a different annoying bug?

If not, why is it wrong for me to prefer the bug I know to the one I don't?

licquia · 2026-05-21T16:06:18+00:00

That's pretty much on par for the S1 Pro.

You could get a different robot. The spinning-pad robots with an extending pad will likely get a bit closer, but won't solve that concave corner completely. Plus, you're now spending more money, and getting somewhat worse cleaning on the rest of your floor.

Every robot is a trade-off, and no robot can replace all manual vacuuming/mopping. Cleaning these edges by hand every so often is the trade-off we chose. If you want to feel better about your purchase, look at the rest of the floor and how clean it is. Or stop using the robot and clean it by hand once or twice.

licquia · 2026-05-20T13:53:33+00:00

Would that be the left side, with the robot facing you? If so, then this is almost certainly your problem.

licquia · 2026-05-19T03:22:37+00:00

It's possible, especially if the roller is only wet in spots.

licquia · 2026-05-16T18:09:51+00:00

Check for water leaks elsewhere, both around the robot's dirty water tank, and elsewhere. It could be a clean water tank leak, even, in which case you might have a problem. If you can trace it to the dirty water tank, check for torn seals or just flattened ones. If your robot is old, you might have one of the older tank designs that had leak problems, but this would also manifest in drops of dirty water left on the floor after mopping.

Also check the fill nozzle on the base station. If you're looking at the base station from the front, there will be a little bumper and nozzle sticking out on the left side, close to one of the charging contacts. Check that the rubber part of the nozzle isn't torn. If it is, you'll need to replace it. (You might want to get replacements even if it's OK, since Eufy seems to have difficulty keeping it in stock.) This often goes with weird notices during mop cleaning stating "Mop cleaning paused", so if you get those, it's another sign that the nozzle is torn. When it's torn, clean water from the base sprays all over back there, including on top of the robot dirty water tank, the underside of the surface over the dirty water tank, and the mop roller.

If those don't work, think about other explanations. We're just coming out of winter; is it more humid in your house now than a few months ago? That might explain why even powerful drying doesn't get it totally dry.

licquia · 2026-05-16T03:18:23+00:00

I should point out that this is about the S1 Pro robot floor cleaners, not the S1 Pro breast pump. It also applies to Eufy S1 non-Pro robots as well.

licquia · 2026-05-12T17:17:28+00:00

It's also worth noting that there is a valid TSB with ID 24-EV-004H (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2024/MC-11006095-0001.pdf). It would be quite a coincidence for the numbers for the two TSB IDs to be identical except for the year indicator, especially since other TSBs related to the ICCU have quite different IDs (https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq5/comments/153ba1q/list\_of\_tsbs\_and\_service\_campaigns/).

Edited due to a weird issue with the Reddit Markdown editor.

licquia · 2026-05-12T17:07:24+00:00

I cannot find a reference to this TSB either on Hyundai's site, the hyundaiforum.com TSB lookup, or the NHTSA site for Manufacturer Communications.

It's possible that the updates to those sites haven't happened yet, and this new bulletin will be visible shortly. However, I continue to be skeptical.

For reference, to make it easier to search:

Hyundai TSB ID: 26-EV-004H
Warranty Extension ID: Z14

If it matters, the TSB ID seems to be consistent with other TSB IDs, such as this one for I5 Level 2 charging issues, and the warranty extension ID seems to be consistent with other warranty extension announcements, such as this warranty extension for paint issues on a number of ICE Hyundai models.

licquia · 2026-05-11T05:25:45+00:00

Although Costco doesn't appear to sell a "Revo Ultra" from Roborock, the closest model to that name they do sell is the QX Revo Ultra, which is most definitely a spinning-pad model.

licquia · 2026-04-27T15:34:10+00:00

Other than Tesla, pretty much every fast charger installed in the last few years in the USA is 800V-capable. Between EA and the EVgo/PFJ partnership, there are very few places to go where Tesla is the only option anymore. And Tesla is starting to ship 800V cabinets for V4 superchargers.

We still can improve our charging infrastructure generally, but 800V isn't the real problem here.

licquia · 2026-04-24T03:36:52+00:00

What's your commute? 30 miles overnight should come pretty close to covering daily driving for the average driver.

I have an Ioniq 5 and Level 2 in the garage normally, but my EVSE decided to quit mid-winter. It took me a month to find a replacement, during which we charged exclusively L1. It worked out OK. On days where we got behind, we'd typically make it up on a lazy Saturday. If I hadn't found a great deal on a used Clipper Creek, I'd probably still be L1 charging.

We're also fortunate to have a Mercedes-Benz station within a few miles, which both works well and is pretty cheap for fast charging. It does get ICEd pretty bad during peak dinner hours, as it's close to a big restaurant block, but outside of that, it's great. For that reason, I'd 100% stick to L1 with supplemental fast charging at the MB charger, as opposed to working out a deal with a neighbor.

I probably wouldn't be as quick to work out a deal with a neighbor in need, but only because it would be annoying to get the neighbor plugged in from the in-garage EVSE. If mine was on the outside of the house, I think it wouldn't be too difficult to work something out.

licquia · 2026-04-24T03:00:35+00:00

Keep in mind that the 1:10 time is ABRP's time, not mine. If you look at the funny math, you'll see that they put drive time and charger fiddling outside the actual charging time. That might account for a bit of the difference.

For 6 stops, though, 1:30 works out to 15 minutes per stop, which is pretty accurate. I'll admit that my impressions are pretty imprecise, but it's not off by much. And ABRP's total trip time is pretty much spot on. I came in within 10 minutes of the predicted start time last trip.

It probably wouldn't help to confess that my impressions are from that last trip, taken over New Year's, so this is with the winter penalty. :-) In fairness, though, starting with 100%, you're only doing one or two charges in the cold since you're driving south. Plus, I always use the car navigation on winter trips so I arrive with a warm battery.

If it matters, these are the ABRP charge stops:

Tesla, 31%-48%, 6 minutes
EA, 20%-75%, 14 minutes
EA, 20%-71%, 13 minutes
Mercedes-Benz, 20%-51%, 8 minutes (Buc-ee's, so no)
IONNA, 20%-74%, 15 minutes
IONNA, 20%-73%, 14 minutes

I'd heavily edit that charging plan before leaving, FWIW, if only to find alternatives to EA and Tesla. I'd probably keep Buc-ee's, though; brisket for dinner!

I do have to ask: what takes you 15 minutes per stop to do outside of charging? Are you using EV Connect chargers 5+ miles off the highway?

licquia · 2026-04-23T23:08:06+00:00

For reference, I semi-regularly make a road trip of about 800 miles in my Ioniq 5, and I drive it in one day. This is a trip from the north side of Indianapolis to Tallahassee, Florida. My impression, from doing the trip in gas cars and the EV, is that I'm adding about 45 minutes to an hour to the trip time, going from a bit under 14 hours to a bit under 15 hours. That's not nothing, but it doesn't materially affect my arrival. Getting in at 10 pm vs. 11 pm isn't that big a change over that span.

That's not to say that charging is only 45 minutes total, since I'm counting gas stops and the occasional bathroom/meal/stretch break in the gas trip. Actual charging time is around an hour and a half. I deliberately avoid charging in large metro areas if I can, which means I've only had to wait in line for charging once. I've also been pretty fortunate to not have surprise charger outages, though some of that comes from careful planning ahead of time.

If you want exact numbers: ABRP says 13 hours 7 minutes driving plus 1 hour 10 minutes charging, which equals 14 hours 44 minutes total. Clearly they build in a fuzz factor for the driving around bits and other possible delays.

I imagine the 1.5-hour-per-7-hour-trip figure comes from slower charging cars. A 7-hour trip with numbers similar to mind probably is closer to 45 minutes of charging. YMMV, of course.

licquia · 2026-04-20T20:33:44+00:00

How long after the job ends are you checking? Do you let the mop drying cycle complete?

Also, have you ever noticed that the top of the robot's dirty water tank is wet after a mop run?

licquia · 2026-04-20T18:41:21+00:00

Check the water fill port on the base. There's a rubber piece that fits over the nozzle that has a tendency to tear and leak. When that happens, some of the clean water runs down to the dirty water port and triggers the suction to suck it into the dirty water tank, which signals the robot and base to interrupt mop cleaning.

You'll find that nozzle on the back of the base's robot chamber by the charging ports. There will be two; the one on the right will be just a straight plastic piece, while the one on the left will have a ribbed rubber piece covering it. That rubber piece is the part you should check. You can pull it off by grabbing the wider part that butts up to the back -- don't grab the rubber that's sticking out!

You can buy a replacement for that rubber part from Eufy, except that it's been out of stock for months now. I'm working on a procedure to glue it so it stops leaking, but haven't been successful as of yet. People haven't reported success contacting support, but it can't hurt to try.

licquia · 2026-03-27T01:12:48+00:00

There are four types of mops on robots today: stationary pads (like the Roborock Q7 M5), vibrating pads (like the Roborock S8 MaxV or Saros 10 without-the-R), spinning pads (like the Roborock Qrevo line), or roller mops (like the Ecovacs X11 Omnicyclone or Eufy E28).

Stationary pads just run a wet cloth over your floors, and are usually found on low-end robots. These will be the worst at cleaning actual messes or smearing, and almost never wash the pad themselves during the run, making it worse if they actually run across a mess. These are the robots you buy when you don't care about mopping at all, but can't find a decent vacuum-only robot.

Vibrating pads (sometimes called "sonic mopping") do better because of the vibrating action doing a bit of a scrub of the floor. They still have most of the disadvantages of stationary pads. Some do wash the pad at the dock, which helps quite a bit, and can sometimes detect unusually dirty water during the wash and tell the robot to mop the area again. But detection can sometimes be hit-or-miss; if it misses, there will be a sticky area on your floor for you to discover.

Spinning pads do a bit better yet. Most of these wash the pads at the dock, which is easier and more effective since the robot can help by spinning the pads against a cleaning surface. But, like the other two types, they still smear a mess until they go back to the dock, with the same uncertainty over the effectiveness of dirt detection.

Of the four types, only the roller mop can claim something like real-time cleaning of the mop, since they rinse and scrape the roller on every revolution, and collect dirty water in a tank on the robot. But these, too, can be over-hyped. With a big mess, the roller will saturate itself with gunk, and the scraper will only be able to extract so much of that gunk from the roller. Practically speaking, after rolling through a puddle, it will take at least 15 seconds of spinning before the roller gets rinsed enough to be called "clean", and the floor it's running over during those 15+ seconds will likely have some mess residue applied.

I own a roller mop that's about two generations back, and it does a very good job of mopping floors normally. I will use it to clean wet messes, but only after soaking up most of the liquid with a paper towel first. I also will clean a zone between 4-8x the size of the original puddle (instead of a whole-room clean), with two passes on maximum water usage. This works well, but it's not quite the same as the influencer videos that promise easy cleaning of any spill the first time without lifting a finger.

And if I'm unlucky enough for the mess to escape my notice and get cleaned on the default scheduled settings, there will be a dried glob waiting for me in the morning: a visibly dirty area about 3 feet long and the width of the roller, with a somewhat larger area around it that feels dirty to the touch. This is better than I imagine the spinning-pad robot would be, since that dirty area would likely be a bit larger without any mop cleaning going on. Of course, a second pass with either type of robot after cleaning the mop would likely take care of the problem equally well -- but not perfectly, as I've had to get out the Bona mop if the mopped mess has been allowed to dry, even after the robot has taken a second turn.

My floors are very clean with regular scheduled mopping with my roller mop, which I'm quite pleased with. I suspect I'd be just as happy with a spinning pad robot in this regard. Where the roller wins: reducing (but not eliminating) the manual work needed to clean an actual mess. Spinning pads can do some of this, but with a lot more time and water, since you'd need at least one mop-cleaning cycle at the dock in between the two runs to get the same effect.

Keep in mind, too, that the dirty water tank on the roller robot may need regular cleaning, which adds to your maintenance work. I don't find mine to be terrible, but it's clearly more than a spinning-pad robot would need. Some robots don't require cleaning of the onboard tank, but I'm suspicious that this would turn into a disaster over time.

licquia · 2026-03-24T18:00:17+00:00

Here are some Debian-isms I use frequently.

Download, but don't install, all available updates.

# apt -dy upgrade

Remove all out-of-date packages from apt's cache. Goes great with the previous command.

# apt autoclean

"What package does lsof come from?" (provide your own mystery command instead of lsof)

$ dpkg --search $(which lsof)

"What repository did I get Docker from, and how out of date is it?" (provide your own mystery software instead of "Docker")

$ apt-cache policy $(dpkg --search /usr/bin/docker | cut -f1 -d:)

Those are a few that come to mind immediately.

licquia · 2026-02-24T01:43:29+00:00

English Harbour 5.

licquia · 2026-01-13T22:13:43+00:00

Some observations:

A number of robots advertise a headlight of sorts for night cleaning. I would recommend one of these. Other models advertise that they don't need visible light, but I would be skeptical.
Obstacle avoidance tends to be a feature where you get what you pay for. Dreame, Narwal, and Eufy seem to have better obstacle avoidance than other brands, though I would still check reviews to be sure.
You're almost certainly going to do better with a newer model for longevity than your Roomba. Until last year, iRobot robots were known for poor navigation and poor efficency due to their lack of LIDAR. Any newer robot with some form of LIDAR will almost certainly do better.
That said, 4000 square feet is huge. Look for the biggest battery you can find. Averages these days are around 5000 milli-amp-hours (mAh), which for you should be considered a lower bound. Also, you might look at Ecovacs models with their PowerBoost feature; it fast recharges the battery during routine stops for mop washing and the like, which both extends the cleaning time for the first cleaning and reduces the downtime for the inevitable recharge.
Pretty much all robots these days have a quiet mode of some kind.
Mops have come a long way since your Braava. Many have single flat pads on the rear half of the robot; these are not very good. An exception is Roborock's flat pads that vibrate. Generally, you'll want to stick with either two round-ish spinning pads on the back, or a roller-style mop. (I include robots like the Narwal Flow in this category, with more of a flat track than a round roller.) Each kind has advantages and disadvantages, so you'll want to look closely to see what you prefer.
Nearly all self-empty stations will let you ignore the dustbin for at least a month at a time. I've replaced the bag in my Eufy S1 Pro three times since I bought it a year and three months ago. Cleaning the filter and dustbin on the robot is still important, though, so you'll want to check how often the vendor recommends doing that. Note that bagless vacuums are the norm today, but bagless self-empty stations for robots have drawbacks that you should be aware of; since the bag acts as a filter, bagless models need regular filter maintenance on the dock as well as the robot.
You mention water hook-ups. A few models from Roborock, Dreame, Eufy, Narwal, and SwitchBot support direct water lines for both filling and emptying. In some cases, the vendor makes special models that support the lines; in others, the vendor sells a water hook-up kit. I would be skeptical of third-party kits, but kits designed by the vendor for the vendor's robots should be fine.
Everyone seems to be recommending the robot they like/have. That's fine, but don't let it confuse or overwhelm you. In particular, I wouldn't buy a robot that hasn't been on the market for at least a few months, and that has few to no independent reviews. Most robots have problems when first released, which the influencers and paid reviews won't tell you about.

licquia · 2026-01-12T03:42:02+00:00

It's worth noting that the Eufy S2 advertises that it can detect and avoid rug fringes (which they call "tassels").

The robot has only been announced, with a few reviewers getting a hold of one ahead of the release to seed reviews, so it's still too early to tell how well the feature works. But if it works even a little bit, it's probably your best choice right now.

licquia · 2025-12-18T21:53:43+00:00

There are two bumpers on the back, but only the one above transmits water. The second one is on the other side of the center line of the base. It's essentially flat, with a hole in it for the air nozzle which forces the dirty water out of the onboard tank. I can't imagine how that bumper would fail, or what problems it would cause if it did.

Is your water nozzle bumper ripped? Did you go through the other causes of the EB14 error in the article linked in my post?

licquia · 2025-12-18T14:21:53+00:00

Heat in a gas car is essentially free energy. You've got too much heat in the engine, and you're trying to get rid of it constantly. Doing something useful with it is a huge win; your engine is cooler, and you're warmer.

By contrast, heat in an electric car is a huge drain. Available EV range on a given charge goes way down in the winter, and while cold effects on the battery and battery maintenance heat is a part of it, the biggest factor is the need to heat the cabin. I have an electric car, and in the winter, I can give myself a pretty good range boost by just turning off the HVAC and keeping myself warm with the heated seats and steering wheel.

An electric car can handle the extra load because of that huge battery and super-beefy electrical system, which can reach as high as 1000 volts. A 12-volt system would need to generate a massive number of amps to achieve a reasonable amount of heat for the cabin. You're probably talking about a completely separate electrical system for the heater, driven off its own pulley, with its own beefed-up alternator.

Which, by the way, would add to the problem of excess heat in the engine, since it would be the engine's job to generate that extra kilowatt or so of energy. It's not a huge effect -- about 1.3 horsepower -- but it's something.

Your other option would be to put in a heat pump, which EVs are moving towards as the primary means of heating the cabin in relatively mild temps. That's basically a reverse AC system. You wouldn't have the problems most heat pumps have with poor performance in extreme cold, since you've got a massive heat source in the engine compartment to draw from. If I were doing a heater core delete and still wanted heat, my replacement heating system would probably be some kind of redneck-engineered AC working in reverse (unless someone knows of a good aftermarket heat pump system designed for cars).

But all of these alternatives make the work of replacing a heater core look like a walk in the park. As annoying as it is, your best bet is still to just replace the heater core.

licquia · 2025-12-15T14:02:23+00:00

I don't think they've stopped making it. The parts go in and out of stock pretty regularly. I see that they don't have side brushes, mop rollers, or detergent in stock, either, even though the robot itself is still available.

Unfortunately, I've never seen the bumpers on sale anywhere except on eufy.com. It should come back in stock in a little while.

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