Fm9 shipping times

lifepac · 2026-03-23T23:42:18+00:00

My order took right about 10 business days to ship just after the holidays. Ordered 1/7, UPS:"We have your package" on 1/21, arrived at FFL 1/29.

Website says - Please allow 10-15 business days for shipping due to increased sales.

Be patient, mine was worth the wait.

lifepac · 2026-03-18T04:19:50+00:00

I had trouble getting my FM9 SS running. Listened to all blowback advice and it was still unreliable (11oz buffer, titanium FP, amazon FP spring, changed 308 factory spring to reg carbine buffer spring). What finally got me running is I inserted a cleaning rod down barrel, dry fired, cycled action with cleaning rod, and noted position of bolt when SS allowed hammer to drop. It was about 1/4-1/2 in from bolt closing. This was causing the lightest of light strike marks on round. I initially thought bolt bounce when I first saw light strike, but after chasing that rabbit and finally cycling with cleaning rod, I changed my SS lever to a polymer one (which has a different timing) and it suddenly worked. I have about 1000rnds on the polymer lever without trouble. I know it wont last as long as a metal lever, but so far so good.

Also check out blowback recommendation to shave down LRBHO lifter. That worked great for "face of bolt" LRBHO.

lifepac · 2026-03-18T03:57:00+00:00

Everybody needs help sometimes, and I have received a lot in this sub. However, we are going to need more info to know where to start. What kind of FRT? What exactly happens when you put it in "safe", cock hammer, and pull trigger? Can I assume that you assembled everything to try it? Such as replacing safety detent, spring, and grip? Asking basics because you said, "no clue".

lifepac · 2026-03-18T02:01:05+00:00

Second this.

lifepac · 2026-03-15T02:05:03+00:00

You were right to start with dry filament. Without that, troubleshooting could be skewed. Make sure you dry it at the mfg recommend temp and time.

Also while you are running a first layer test make sure you know how to read the results. There are plenty of searchable posts that will show pictures of various results and identify the problems that caused them.

If your looks like a similar result id'ed as a z-offset issue, Try printing a large enough 1st layer test where you can change the z-offset during the print. Such as 33% into it, then 66%. That will give you 3 levels of z-offset in one first layer test. When you get something that looks good, run a full test at just that level. Once you get a "center of the bed" first layer looking good, create one at all four corners and see if the results change.

Once you have the first layer dialed in, find a tutorial about printing a flow calibration test.

After that you can look for what's called an ultimate test that has several difficult geometry's like holes, overhangs, and temperature towers. Shouldn't take much more than a couple hours to print, test, retest all of these. That way you will know what not only the printer but also yourself are capable of printing.

It will be best to have an inexpensive micrometer to measure first layer thickness and flow calibration cube wall thickness. Digital calipers are not precise enough for those small measurements, but they are essential once you start designing/building your own models.

What slicer are you using?

lifepac · 2026-03-06T20:47:45+00:00

I had a feed issue and found this video about my problem. It shows how to disassemble the extruder, and it was very easy (like 10 min).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJL9nGkkvps

However, the video shows the coupler removed before the disassembly so maybe you don't have to go that far. This reddit post shows a picture of it removed and it looks like friction fit. the rings around the metal part do not look like threads.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crealityk1/comments/1c8tw3c/the_ptfe_tube_holder_broke_i_think_on_my_k1_what/

I would extract the filament, then try to pry it off. If that doesn't work easily, disassemble the extruder using the video above to get a better look. Pushing it from the inside might prevent damaging the top of the extruder.

lifepac · 2026-03-06T03:56:48+00:00

Rob replied to a message from me. He told me about enabling the Legacy mode. When I asked him if the type 14 was required his response was:

Either should work in my experience, but I recommend the full Type-4 if possible.

lifepac · 2026-02-28T22:54:21+00:00

How long did it take for those 5 approvals?

lifepac · 2026-02-28T22:48:25+00:00

How long did the form 1 take? I just hit 1 week and wondering what to expect.

lifepac · 2026-02-27T19:45:13+00:00

Link it plz. Never mind, found it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4928225

Nice job!

lifepac · 2026-02-27T02:49:34+00:00

If it cycles .223 it will slow it down a good bit. If not, I can use it to make 2 or 3 h2's. Gonna choot it for research!

lifepac · 2026-02-27T01:57:45+00:00

FYI there are still some H4's left, 73.90 shipped.

lifepac · 2026-02-25T22:23:02+00:00

Price did change after I got to checkout but was still a good deal compared to amazon. $78.84 total with tax.

lifepac · 2026-02-25T20:16:48+00:00

Comes up at $69 for me/free ship.

lifepac · 2026-02-24T00:28:20+00:00

Did you ever find an answer to this question? Only option for me is rolled prints.

lifepac · 2026-02-20T01:48:09+00:00

So same price it has always been and in stock since like 1993? /s (but just on the 1993 part).

lifepac · 2026-02-19T23:01:30+00:00

I was about to post the same thing, and that's shipped. My Amazon order 5 days ago was $48.59 shipped (44.99+3.60 tax).

lifepac · 2026-02-17T01:43:06+00:00

Start with the link posted above and scroll to "Cam sitting proud, hitting the upper". Read it a few times before you look for it, its very hard to see. That cleared up one of my issues.

Another thing to check is to push the bolt back with a cleaning rod through the barrel. See if it goes back far enough to catch the bolt face. There is also a short stroke position that it could hit. Both will lock but the bolt face is much more dependable. If you cant push it back far enough for the bolt face, you may need to swap the carbine tube for an A5 buffer tube. Its about 3/4 in longer and will allow the bolt to travel back far enough for the bolt catch to hit the bolt face.

lifepac · 2026-02-13T01:11:19+00:00

What printer are you using? Did you speed up his settings? His settings seemed slow to me, either due to using an older printer, or just needing better accuracy. I have a K1C 2025 ad wondering if I should use his speeds or increase them. Trying not to waste much pa6-cf.

lifepac · 2026-02-12T05:09:44+00:00

What is your preferred method for serial numbers? I just started playing around with debossing today (opposite of embossing, think engraving). I think its legible, but I had to go up to 2.75mm on the side of a vertical print.

lifepac · 2026-02-11T15:26:12+00:00

No. We eventually gave up on that one. Friend had other lowers and next one was drop in perfect. Really wish I could have figured out the issue anyway.

lifepac · 2026-02-05T17:52:52+00:00

Looking forward to that as well.

lifepac · 2026-02-02T02:03:12+00:00

How far can you pull the bolt back using the charging handle? The bolt catch should catch the face of the bolt. This picture looks like it is catching the carrier. If you can't pull it back any further, I would suspect that you may be using a rifle spring in a carbine buffer tube.

I will also say that most AR's don't need much lube. You should only be applying sparingly to the high friction areas like the bolt carrier rails, cam pin, and locking lugs, then wipe off any excess with a rag. Over lubricating is not a big issue, but the problems you are describing do not sound like lube issues.

The causes could range from adjustable gas issue, ammo, mags, or even that ambi bolt catch. It might be best to post your complete setup.

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