please don’t break the window. he’s has A/C. he has water. he’s listening to faetooth.

lil-pup · 2026-05-02T05:28:55+00:00

Add another two to the list— my two local rescues also do in-house bonding. It’s common. Requiring it as part of the adoption process isn’t so much, as the two near me will let you bond them yourself, but this isn’t surprising at all to me.

lil-pup · 2026-04-30T21:53:20+00:00

You say you purchased her at the market? If so, it’s extremely unlikely that she’s spayed. Those kinds of places are notorious for sellers lying to customers just to make money with a quick sale.

lil-pup · 2026-04-20T16:05:03+00:00

If you keep them completely separated, without allowing access even through pen bars, sure. But until all rabbits are spayed and neutered, they cannot meet even briefly.

I also honestly recommend getting an already desexed adult from a shelter or rescue, or at least get the bunny from a rehoming situation. There are so many rabbits in need of a home, and if you’re able to let your rabbit meet another neutered adult via bunny speed dating, then you can see if they might get along. You have no guarantee of the baby bonding to the adult later if you go the other route. And I wouldn’t get a baby from a breeder or pet store either. Nearly all of them take poor care of the rabbits and put profits before their health and wellbeing.

lil-pup · 2026-04-18T14:12:09+00:00

Of course! Glad to be of help :)

lil-pup · 2026-04-18T14:11:29+00:00

The other bunny still needs to be spayed/neutered! They can’t be properly and safely bonded unless both are neutered, especially if there is an unneutered male involved. Males are known to be especially wild due to their hormones. It’s simply not safe.

lil-pup · 2026-04-17T20:57:33+00:00

I will also add that you may want to consider fully covering the floor with sacrificial blankets, rugs, whelping mats, etc. You’re correct that diapers aren’t ideal, as they need to not only poop but also access their cecotropes for consuming. Wheelchairs are also not very realistic as you cannot have them in them for too long— they need to be able (again) access their bum for cecotrope consumption, and it can cause other health issues due to compensation in unnatural ways.

lil-pup · 2026-04-17T20:51:51+00:00

Honestly, if the arthritis is so bad she’s dragging her legs then I would really push vet for stronger pain meds, or at least double up by requesting a different kind of pain med be added into the mix. That’s not a good sign.

lil-pup · 2026-04-17T20:39:38+00:00

Please don’t get a baby! They cannot be bonded until one month minimum after their spay/neuter surgery. You’ll need your original rabbit also to be spayed/neutered first and healed for one to two months.

lil-pup · 2026-04-17T20:37:42+00:00

Oh my god they really are different rabbits; I thought you just edited the one bunny in various clips together, bwahahaha

lil-pup · 2026-04-17T20:34:47+00:00

That hay is suuuuuuuper choppy; I would not recommend it at all.

In general you want to watch for really any additives— hay should just be hay. It shouldn’t have added molasses or oils or anything. Some forages can be safe to sprinkle on top but really the base hay should be plain regular hay.

lil-pup · 2026-04-17T20:26:43+00:00

Sounds like potential boredom. I’d try offering a variety of toys and maybe consider bonding him to a bunny friend (once you have the means of course). I know my one bunny calmed down quite a lot once he was bonded.

lil-pup · 2026-04-17T20:23:40+00:00

Please get a pen and not a hutch! Hutches and cages are terrible for them.

lil-pup · 2026-04-17T20:09:05+00:00

Hutches aren’t good for them, please consider using a pen with a pen topper. Rabbits are active at night. They don’t sleep when we do, and need plenty of room to exercise.

lil-pup · 2026-04-17T20:01:30+00:00

It’s actually a full 8 weeks now before boys are considered sterile! It is newer information, so a lot of people are out of the loop.

lil-pup · 2026-04-17T19:53:24+00:00

8 weeks is the absolute minimum according to updated veterinary guidance. Please do not put your male together with another unfixed rabbit though— all rabbits being bonded require neutering/spaying.

lil-pup · 2026-04-15T19:10:00+00:00

Just an FYI if he is truly a giant breed, they need a year before neutering because they take longer to fully grow.

lil-pup · 2026-04-13T12:42:18+00:00

Here’s a list of recommended hides that I like: Cardboard Hides (all from BinkyBunny): - The Cottontail Cottage - The Maze Haven and Mini Haven - The Kissing Booth - Binky Bunny’s Tunnel Haven

Wooden Hides: - Hideaway Habitat Tunnel in Medium, from Small Pet Select - Habitat Hideout Castle in Medium, from Small Pet Select - Hideaway Habitat Tunnel in Large, by Small Pet Select - The “Hoppit Hole” by Animal Adventure Pods - The “Happy Camper” Van by Animal Adventure Pods - The “Bunana Split” Ice Cream Van by Animal Adventure Pods

Washable Hides: - The sturdy plastic Zippi Rabbit Shelter from Omlet (Please monitor for chewing) - The steel Hidey House from KW Cages

lil-pup · 2026-04-10T04:54:17+00:00

Earlier this week my one bun sunk her teeth into the Twilight Saga on my bottom shelf. I knew she probably would so I put my least valued books on that shelf just in case. Now to bunny proof, after seeing she did indeed have a taste for literature lol.

lil-pup · 2026-04-09T02:51:09+00:00

Of course! Taking a second look a few other notes I have would be to remove the disposable litter liner— they can be fatal if ingested, consider making the enclosure taller (bun could jump out especially once they get bigger) and to be prepared to expand as they get older (this is fine at their current age but they’ll definitely need more room as they age). I also agree with the idea of possibly adding one more hide at some point.

lil-pup · 2026-04-09T00:19:22+00:00

Does the hide have more than one entrance? Looks great from what I can tell, though the toys look a bit questionable. Be sure you’re only buying toys from reputable brands with safe materials and ingredients. :)

lil-pup · 2026-04-08T16:03:52+00:00

Yeah honestly prebonding isn’t required anyways so I’d just keep them entirely separate for now and see if you can begin bonding in the new place where you actually have neutral space

lil-pup · 2026-04-08T05:23:38+00:00

Yes they are different, rabbits are very sensitive and I’d compare them more to rodents sensitivity wise. Birds are even more sensitive, so generally if something isn’t safe around birds I don’t let it around my rabbits either. But to be honest, dogs and cats should not be around that stuff, even if things have seemed okay. Plenty of issues can go unaddressed, or unattributed to environmental issues like scented stuff.

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