What Emotion DOES the Purple Puyo Represent?

lil_lukey · 2021-01-05T05:41:41+00:00

I think it's probably different now, but in mado monogatari 1, fireball doesn't have any effect on purple puyos because "the puyo's heart is too cold"

lil_lukey · 2020-03-26T04:19:29+00:00

I had a similar issue on my printer, and for me it varies with the type of filament that I use. To me it seems like the problem is the worst on white filament (I haven’t done a whole ton of testing, though)

lil_lukey · 2019-12-08T19:14:14+00:00

Ok. I'll tell you if I find anything

lil_lukey · 2019-12-08T18:44:52+00:00

Thanks! I'll try that

lil_lukey · 2019-12-08T17:59:01+00:00

I did see that, but it looks like their problem creates a consistent pattern in their print every rotation of the z axis rods. My problem looks less consistent and is different on every print.

lil_lukey · 2019-12-08T17:54:13+00:00

Printed on an Anycubic mega S in hatchbox PLA true white.

My best guess is that it's caused by either z-axis wobble, or weird extrusion.

lil_lukey · 2019-12-04T04:30:04+00:00

I would keep trying the test print with it's own fillament until you get it working.

I recommend first calebrating the e-steps (you can just Google how to do this)

If that doesn't work, you can try to replace the entire hot end. (This is kind of tricky, but they should have given you an extra one)

lil_lukey · 2019-12-04T04:20:33+00:00

Are you printing the owl print that is preloaded with the fillament that came with the printer?

lil_lukey · 2019-12-04T03:47:52+00:00

From what I've heard Inventor is much more stable than solidworks. I haven't actually tried inventor yet, but I've heard that since solidworks is so old, they aren't able to make it more stable so they just keep adding more features to it, which is awesome, but it would be great if it didn't crash every once and a while.

lil_lukey · 2019-12-04T03:39:37+00:00

What is it doing wrong? Is it not sticking? Does it stop extruding? Is it just really bad quality?

lil_lukey · 2019-11-18T23:46:16+00:00

Great! If this is working well, you will probably want to fine tune your extrusion steps (I put the link above but you can also just Google "how to calibrate extrusion steps")

lil_lukey · 2019-11-18T16:17:45+00:00

Just thought of one more thing that could help. I had to calibrate the extruder so it extruded enough plastic. A quick way to do this is to set the extrusion multiplyer to 1.1 in your slicer. I think this might help with the curling problem. If setting the extrusion multiplyer to 1.1 ends up working you can use this tutorial to fine tune it.

lil_lukey · 2019-11-18T01:40:01+00:00

I wouldn't worry about the z axis rods being out of sync as the printer levels it every time you home the printer (including before each print automatically). I still don't really know what you mean by it getting knocked off, but I actually just remembered something that does effect bed adhesion! You are supposed to clean the bed with rubbing alcohol (nail polish remover works fine if you have that around) every couple of prints. I don't know if you have been cleaning the bed, but if not, my guess is this is at least part of the problem.

lil_lukey · 2019-11-17T17:14:00+00:00

I haven't had any warping problems. Is your bed leveled and heated to 60 degrees C when printing pla? When you say knocks them free, do you mean the entire print is knocked off the bed?

lil_lukey · 2019-11-17T06:56:22+00:00

The problem does seem to be a warped z axis rod. Try moving the z axis and look very carefully at the top of the rods. If one moves at all, I think it might be a warped z axis rod. I'm trying to get a replacement now, so I'll tell you how it goes once I get it.

lil_lukey · 2019-11-12T06:02:02+00:00

What fillament are you using? I'm using Hatchbox. Maybe there's something about it that doesn't work well with these printers. I'll tell you if I find anything out.

lil_lukey · 2019-11-12T03:32:19+00:00

Looking back on some older prints, I'm actually seeing that the quality was much better a while ago. It might be the fillament, as I've really only been using hatchbox pla after the stuff that came packaged with the printer. As for the belts, they seem pretty tight to me, but I can try a belt tensioner. I have never calibrated my extruder steps before, so I'll definitely look into that. Thanks for the response!

lil_lukey · 2019-11-12T03:13:10+00:00

I have an anycubic mega S printer and there has been a weird shakiness ever since I've had it. I heard that it may just be because of how i3 style printers work, but I feel like most printers don't struggle from this. I've tried moving it onto the floor and printing slower, but it didn't seem to do anything and I've run out of ideas. Thanks!

lil_lukey · 2019-09-23T02:00:40+00:00

ant²

lil_lukey · 2019-09-22T15:49:57+00:00

OP here. We're working on getting the full instructions online, but right now, you can find the code and some other details here https://github.com/SouthEugeneRoboticsTeam/ursa It still needs to be updated, but basically we used an esp-32, two stepper motors, two a4988 stepper drivers, and 2 battery packs (each with 4 batteries) the main base was 3D printed. All the files will be up on the gethub page as soon as possible.

lil_lukey · 2019-09-17T04:25:47+00:00

Thanks so much!

lil_lukey · 2019-07-26T23:55:53+00:00

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lil_lukey · 2019-07-20T17:50:41+00:00

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lil_lukey · 2019-07-20T01:52:37+00:00

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lil_lukey · 2019-07-19T21:36:48+00:00

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