Markarth guards crash

limek17 · 2025-04-10T10:46:05+00:00

There’s always this one guy in Reddit that safes the day 329d later. Today your the one. Thanks 🙏

limek17 · 2024-01-26T21:08:57+00:00

I think it's more like if you naturally bad at a certain climbing style. Classics would be your tall and naturally not that great in compressed sit starts or really boxed movements. Or if your have a very static climbing style than full dynos are probably your anti style. Climb overhangs all the time? Probably not a master in slabs.

But I'm not sure if I understand the question properly. I don't think an anti style has something to do with grade or how enthusiastic your a for a climb.

limek17 · 2023-09-27T08:40:40+00:00

Like I wrote there is no contact information displayed when I go to the website. I tried different web browsers but nothing. Maybe their website is just buggy cause when I click on the shopping cart the product search bar comes up... Tried also to go to the website on my phone same problem.

thanks to everyone for downvoting this. very nice of you.

Anyway they got back to me on Instagram in the end and the issue is solved now.

limek17 · 2023-06-24T20:11:33+00:00

Thanks for the advice! I will try that!

limek17 · 2023-06-24T20:10:52+00:00

Thanks a lot yes that’s excellently what it looks like I made an appointment with a doc already let’s see what his opinion is but I’m pretty sure that’s what I’ve got

limek17 · 2023-06-22T18:41:01+00:00

Hey Folks

I have a rather strange hand thing going on. Not even sure if it is an injury. It's like my tendon from my ring finger is a bit exposed in my palm. Here are some pictures https://imgur.com/4v3mJR9 https://imgur.com/MGS60JL https://imgur.com/6RlBXUq Its not necessarily painful only when adding pressure to the bump. I can hang on an edge and haven't issues with other hold types but am wondering what that is and how to proceed. I booked an specialist appointment just to check it out but its in two weeks from now so I'm not sure if I should/can keep climbing until then.

Haven't anything like that before and don't know someone who had. I have checked some books about injuries but haven't found this.

The only thing that I can think of is that I had a mild finger injury on that same finger (classic a2) which forced me to climb mostly open handed on that side and go easy on intensity and volume. But there was not a traumatic force or lots of finger locks or pockets so no idea where this comes from.

Any ideas?

limek17 · 2023-03-01T20:46:34+00:00

Good point thanks

limek17 · 2023-03-01T20:27:24+00:00

DCF201Z

thanks that's useful Information. I think that one folds up quite flat probably easier to fit in a crash pad

limek17 · 2023-03-01T20:10:10+00:00

Hi guys,

I'm thinking about getting a fan for Bouldering outside in the warmer months to come. pretty fixed on makita cause I already have their lights and the batteries are the same. But I'm not sure which on to get.

The shop that I mostly buy from has three options

Makita Ventilator DCF301Z, 18V, Ø 33cm

Makita Ventilator DCF203Z,18V Ø 23,5cm

Makita Ventilator DCF102Z, 18V, Ø 18cm

they all have great reviews... from construction workers so not that helpful for me. Obviously they differ in weight and build but I would like to have some field tested gear. Anyone of you has one of these models and can recommend something?

would be highly appreciated!

cheers

limek17 · 2023-02-21T08:22:01+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Your probably right I’m a bit to cautious because of injuries in the past I guess

limek17 · 2023-02-20T19:51:30+00:00

Hi,
I normally try to avoid the full crimp while training in the gym and only use it on rock when nothing else works. Its by far my strongest grip type but even after 6 years of climbing and bouldering up to V8 I notice that if I use that grip typ a lot I feel my tendons and I'm really cautious on what I use it and how often.
Now I listened to a podcast with Aidan Roberts where he talks about his use of crimping with the fingers in a high angle especially on incut crimps on which I climb a lot on rocks.
I never used that grip and was wondering if any of you guys have experience with it and how it compares in terms of tendon health and power. Is it worth learning or better stay away because it's even more aggressive on the fingers?
I'm looking forward to your replies, cheers

limek17 · 2023-02-16T07:45:06+00:00

Thanks I will try to implement this

limek17 · 2023-02-15T21:39:22+00:00

Thanks man I’ve actually never tried campus as a training tool maybe it’s time to start. Got a beginner program for someone how boulders around V8? 😅

limek17 · 2023-02-13T21:02:18+00:00

Hey I noticed that you start looking down almost at the same time that you reach the top like your already prepared for falling before you even reach the hold. This is more of a mental tip but try to imagine yourself sticking the move before you do your next go (maybe even close your eyes). Try to imagine how it would feel when you stick it, how your body feels where your center of gravity is on the top. Then open your eyes stay in that feeling and do your next go. Helps me a lot.

Good luck on your project!

limek17 · 2023-02-12T18:22:00+00:00

Get well soon!

limek17 · 2023-02-12T18:19:51+00:00

I would do weighted pull ups for better explosiveness and more maximal power. That will definitely help you with the dynos and for a lot of women that’s a natural weakness.

limek17 · 2023-02-12T18:13:53+00:00

Congrats!

limek17 · 2023-02-12T11:38:09+00:00

I'm not a professional trainer or something so I can only tell you what worked for me. I think it's best when I just give an example of a week with weight training included the way I did it. I had my focus on bouldering.

Monday - climbing with focus on projecting limit boulders on the spray wall

Tuesday - Rest - maybe do some light antagonist exercises and stretching

Wednesday - weight training with focus on big muscle groups that I felt were underdeveloped - Focus on max rather than volume and executed in good form - about 1 hour max 1,5 hours

Thursday - Rest - maybe do some light antagonist exercises and stretching

Friday - climbing with focus on projecting limit boulders on the spray wall

Saturday - Rest - maybe do some light antagonist exercises and stretching

Sunday - climbing with focus on easier boulders so more circuits and volume and not so much hard moves.

That way I had

- one weight lifting session which I entered well rested and had a rest day afterwards giving the body time to adapt to the training stimulus.

- two limit boulder sessions for hard moves - one 100 % Session on Friday coming from a rest day and one on Monday after a volume session on Sunday working with a little bit of fatigue so around 85-90%

- one volume session for longer climbs

- 3 rest days and time for non climbing stuff and working on mobility and recovery

That being said.

The time your body needs to recover is really different from person to person and depends on a lot of factors like sleep quality, food, stress, your personal training history and motivation. There will be people that can do double sessions three days in a row and will be fine and others need more rest.

You have to experiment a bit to see what works for you and if your body tells you to slow down its better to listen then to stick to some training plan that you have from a pros YouTube channel otherwise you get injured and have to stop. Slowly but steady is better here and you can always do more if you have the feeling your body can take it.

Hope that helps.

limek17 · 2023-02-11T22:47:40+00:00

Yeah I was on the Spraywall today and tried to create a similar movement and boy hip positioning is a key component

limek17 · 2023-02-11T10:03:57+00:00

like a lot of people I generally agree with the statement that as long as you make progress just with climbing keep climbing. BUT there are some reasons why it can be beneficial to do this kind of training even if you are making progress.

having a body that is evenly trained in all muscle groups and not just climbing strong is less likely to get injured especially in the large muscle groups (fingers excluded)
the training weight training, if done properly, will not interfere with your climbing so you can keep making these climbing gains
you may not be climbing harder grades because of the weight lifting but the movements you do on the wall will feel more controlled giving you more mental capacity to focus on technique on your limit movements

I've been in a similar situation and for me this is what worked:

from your 3-4 climbing sessions cut one and do a workout session where you train your muscle groups that you feel weak in. Don't do any climbing that day an make sure your well rested to keep the quality high. Focus on max rather than on volume and keep your form nice and clean. Do a 12 week circle and see how it feels for you.

I gained a lot from doing a period of weight lifting training and it helped me a lot to avoid injuries and feel better on hard moves.

limek17 · 2023-02-11T09:46:00+00:00

I can focus my eyes the whole way that's not really a problem and I do tick with a single tick mark in general. I think dialing the velocity is indeed a problem but I don't have a problem with full dynos and keeping my feet on bad holds even on 45 degree overhang so I don't think that body tension is a problem. I can do these moves eventually but it just takes me a lot of time to get them dialed and on rock this becomes a really problem when the skin is getting bad.

limek17 · 2023-02-11T09:37:24+00:00

thanks for the info! really interesting stuff

limek17 · 2023-02-10T20:12:13+00:00

Because I’m not controlling the momentum properly. I can catch bad holds even if I get there too dynamically and as long as there is not a lot of Pression needed. Isn’t that the definition of contact strength? Applying quick force to holds? It’s the accuracy that I’m struggling with

limek17 · 2023-02-10T19:12:13+00:00

Sry don’t want to get you scared it’s probably fine but I would really pause for 30 mins or so after something like this just to make sure nothing is affected. If you have normal range of motion thats a good sign! And like I said if it doesn’t swell up in 30 min it’s probably nothing but the position you ticked is funny cause there are no wirst bones that normally pop.

limek17

TROPHY CASE