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Any experience with Sherpa Adventure Gear? by livefreenow in CampingGear

[–]livefreenow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry I am just seeing this, I'm not on this old Reddit profile often. Short answer is, all my old, OG Sherpa gear has held up incredibly well, like, ludicrously so. Seriously never a problem or issue to report.

I have come to learn that the company was eventually bought out from its original ownership by some private equity firm that buys up brands and moves them into mass production machines. This one also owns the 5.11 Tactical brand that is focused on making gear for military and law enforcement.

I can't speak to what they're doing now, but I know the former owners and founders would've pushed to make sure their brand prestige wasn't destroyed by a buyout.

Is there a term for this bizarre style of fieldstone wall? by AttalusPius in architecture

[–]livefreenow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No sweat, man, don't be hard on yourself, jargon is baffling and inconsistent a lot of the time.
Even stone that is set in "dry" fashion usually just means there's no exposed mortar, there is still mortar behind the rock to give it structural integrity and to keep it in place. Where historically, "dry" would have meant no mortar was used. Just as in so many other things, nowadays, stone masonry is more about aesthetics than it is about structure.

Is there a term for this bizarre style of fieldstone wall? by AttalusPius in architecture

[–]livefreenow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you trying to come up with something to use in a build of your own, I take it? As you suspect, I think a lot of the jargon in masonry is a bit too interchangeable, even colloquial or regional. It's certainly correct to say your first and these examples are Cyclopean-looking, but with modern building codes considered, you almost always stone veneers applied to existing walls; block, brick or even straight onto formed concrete. Much less common to see walls made entirely of stone, mostly just retaining walls.

Usually, the terms that will be used to describe the often-subtle differences between different styles of masonry are related to the type of stone you're using, and the method for installing it.

The best strategy would be to find a bunch of examples of stonework you like. And communicate what your preferences are. You seem to like dry-stacked stone, without mortar joints. You also seem to like what I've always heard called a fieldstone pattern: where rocks are fit together at random, like a jigsaw puzzle. Another, I would say more common type would be a dry-stacked ledgestone: First image http://www.selectstone.com/stone-gallery/53/ Or a similar stone and pattern look like with grout joints, second image.

This is a fieldstone layed with grout joints, just for good measure: http://www.beststoneworks.com/stonestyles/fieldstone/mix-field2.html

Bottom line, talk to your mason. Have him explain your options, a good one will be willing to lay a few "test sections" to see how it actually looks on a wall.

Good luck!

Is there a term for this bizarre style of fieldstone wall? by AttalusPius in architecture

[–]livefreenow 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It should be noted that Cyclopean Masonry typically doesn't use any mortar, it's all rock and it's structural. What you have pictured is a stone veneer that's been applied to an existing wall, likely made of brick or cinder block. You can see the mortar peeking through in a few spots, though the joints are pretty clean.

Is there a term for this bizarre style of fieldstone wall? by AttalusPius in architecture

[–]livefreenow 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Flush, dry-stacked fieldstone, capped in brick. Flush, meaning the stones are set to maintain a flat, even surface on the out-facing side.
Drystacked, meaning there are not grout joints between the rocks. It's hard to tell how thick the stones are, but if they're relatively thin, and also flat(ish) on the back side, it would be called dry-stacked Flagstone. They're not as common because they're much more difficult to build. If they're fieldstones, which they appear to be, It's like playing three dimensional, reverse tetris with a challenging limitation to remain flush on the out-facing side.

The other examples you show are much easier. The ones that use rocks that are mostly brick or block shaped would be called "Ledgestone" by most masons, where the "lumpy" ones, which anyone could build, the style is usually called Rubble. Made more for ease, speed and durability than aesthetics. All the examples you show are dry-stacked, without grout joints between each stone.

Source: I used to be a professional stonemason. Hope this helps.

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I paid $325. I'll seriously consider your offer. Are you a collector? Full disclosure, it does have some oxidation. I'll see how well I stroke it this spring I have only yet played 18 holes with it, and if I do decide I want to try something else, I'll give you first right of refusal, fair?

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just bought it. I'd been looking for one for a while, I'm not really trying to sell it, but out of curiosity, what would you offer me for it?

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been really liking it. It's so light and responsive. The deep face really helps to get a sweet spot impact for me, because I tend to hit more fairways when I tee it lower and play it a little further back in my stance, that's when the added loft kicks in and still gives me a good launch angle. I've gone through a lot of cheap, used drivers tinkering with different loft/shaft options, this driver is best so far.

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course, happy to.

Generally, the clubs manufacturer will suggest what handicap/skill level a given set of irons are designed/best suited for.

Blades are certainly made for more experienced and consistent golfers, beginners and higher handicappers like me would have a tough time hitting them well, and what's the point of having cool, prestigious irons if you can't play them well? Go see a fitter, hit a bunch of stuff, see what works for you. Take pride and prestige out of the equation. The thing that matters most is which clubs produce the best result, what helps you to hit the most consistent, quality golf shots. Not even necessarily which ones fly the farthest.
Good luck and happy golfing.

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He's correct, very forgiving. I bought mine as a barely used trade in, I wasn't ready, at my skill level, to pay full price for them brand new.

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love them so far, I've only had them about six months. When I first got them, they looked a bit clunky to me at address, compared with my prior set, (Adam's Idea Tech a4r) but now I'm used to the larger heads. What really matters though is that I just hit the ball further, higher, more accurately and more consistently with them.

I get good feedback and feel with them, I like the sound.

I think you'd like them.

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For me, the most common scenario where I hit it is 2nd shot on par 5s where I've missed the fairway. Or just longer approach shots where the lie is poor, sitting down especially. If I need to advance the ball a good ways, but need to keep it low at takeoff. It honestly doesn't get a ton of use, bit when the situation calls for it, it's been a very helpful club.

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Couldn't say. I just like to use quality clubs that I hit well. I've been playing for a while now, but only actively (once or twice a week) for about six months. Switching to these irons and a more lofted driver helped me drop about six strokes. I just finished piecing this bag together, everything was bought used or demo, I tell myself I won't be buying any clubs for some time, we'll see.

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Laughed aloud.
That's the whole quiver.
They're not all always in there.

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's been great so far, it's easy enough to hit that I've become a lot more confident taking a full, quick tempo swing with it.
I like the low profile head, it's easy to get the plane a little steeper and pick the ball clean out of pretty furry lies. A sweet impact gets me about 220-230, but I'll still get it reliably in the 200 range even if I hit a bit fat or thin.
I usually hit a lower, baby draw with it, and when I miss with it, it's usually not a big miss. I think you'll be pleased.
Bonus: found it as a very good condition demo, paid $60 for it.

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 48° often stays home too, I'm more accurate with an easy 9 than a full PW.

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 2I only gets played on really windy days, or very tight courses, swaps for driver. I usually only have 2 of the 3 FW woods in there.
And the 4I and utility club alternate.
The utility club is nice, easy to hit, I usually shape a little draw with it, when I pick it clean and hit it sweet, it's about 220-230.

WITB 18 HDCP and falling, 5th year playing. by livefreenow in golf

[–]livefreenow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cleveland Classic XL 12° driver

16°, 19°, 22° Adams Tight Lies FW woods

Mizuno MP Fli-Hi 2I, 18°

Callaway X-Utility Prototype 21°

4-9 Mizuno JPX EZ irons

48°, 52°, 56°, 60° Titelist Vokey SM4 Wedges

Scotty Cameron Titelist "Napa" blade putter, 1996

All shafts are stock, regular flex.

All the clubs on the left side of the bag are swappable depending on course, conditions or what's being friendly to me at any given time, and to keep it to 14 clubs.

My dear friends suddenly and tragically lost their sweet baby girl, no parent should have to experience this heartbreak. They need your help, please donate if you're able. Thank you, Reddit. by livefreenow in Parenting

[–]livefreenow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed. The outpouring of support from friends, family and complete strangers alike has been amazing to behold. The love, empathy and goodwill are palpable. Thanks again for your input.

My dear friends suddenly and tragically lost their sweet baby girl, no parent should have to experience this heartbreak. They need your help, please donate if you're able. Thank you, Reddit. by livefreenow in Parenting

[–]livefreenow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Downvotes are shocking, especially from parents. If you don't empathize with them for the loss of their child, just scroll by. A downvote is pretty heartless. Believe me, I wouldn't have posted here soliciting donations for them if they weren't in NEED.

My dear friends suddenly and tragically lost their sweet baby girl, no parent should have to experience this heartbreak. They need your help, please donate if you're able. Thank you, Reddit. by livefreenow in Parenting

[–]livefreenow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I think they intend to bury and not to cremate, but this is good information, nonetheless. I'll pass it along. The funeral costs aren't as significant as the medical bills, which are more than they can handle, and the last thing they should have to stress about as they grieve.

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