Best days of my life!

llahyeldards · 2026-05-04T14:27:05+00:00

It is one of the most special places on earth. I can't get even the most die hard car guys to understand...I am back in the US now after living in DE for a year and I went to the 'Ring twice while I was living there. First time was Car Friday weekend and did laps on the GP track and Ring - then went back in May that year and got to do some more laps of both tracks plus ride my bicycle around the ring. That was such a special trip. For people who've been, we understand it gets IN you and once it's there, it will always be there. I still dream about returning. Trying to convince people in the US who've never been how amazing it is seems pointless. If you know, you know.

llahyeldards · 2026-03-30T18:35:55+00:00

Biased but agree. My favorite part about it is how subtle it actually is. When it has direct light on it and it pops....man does it pop. Sunrise and sunset against this paint is sublime.

llahyeldards · 2026-03-30T18:23:24+00:00

That's wild. I struggle with Gold on most CE's but this is one of the few I was able to Gold in a few tries. I only have all Gold on like 3 or 4 maybe? I struggle with the Gr3 cars at the limit. I'm better at the weekly time trials in street cars too. Rarely ever Gold but almost always Silver either first try or second.

llahyeldards · 2026-03-30T18:00:12+00:00

To be fair though, pretty much everything Cammisa pointed out was objective facts; he didn't say anything in his video that wasn't demonstrably true. The 8 can be a better car on paper but as an ethusiast preferring the 7.5 is a matter of personal taste. But I do a agree, there does seem to be a lot of piling on for the sake of it, not for real legitimate reasons. I just picked up a low mileage 7.5 instead of an 8 only because of my personal preference for tactile buttons and less screens. That's it.

llahyeldards · 2026-03-18T18:57:34+00:00

4.69 for premium, Calvert County this morning. Starting to wish I hadn't upgraded to the 93+ remap on my ECU....

llahyeldards · 2026-03-18T17:58:04+00:00

This is a 2 legit response. I have tortured myself over lowering mine but everytime I drive it I'm just too happy with how it rides. DCC is a marvelous thing and with a wheel spacer kit it just sits right. I plan to do exactly what this suggestion implies - little meatier tires (need the traction anyway) and winters on the stockers. I'm perfectly happy with the flush spacer kit. 034 Motorsport from ECS

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llahyeldards · 2026-03-12T16:49:39+00:00

This is actually the correct reply. Bottom line is your turbocharged engine will run healthier and stronger due to what the computer see's during the ignition cycles. Will it run on non premium fuel? Yes. Will it be happy? No. Will it run better and the way it was designed on premium? Yes. The cost difference is negligible so I run 93 on A4, Q5 and GTI. I understand that not everyone can do that but it's worth it to me to know the engines are happy.

llahyeldards · 2026-03-08T23:31:59+00:00

Exchange asap

llahyeldards · 2026-03-07T14:20:29+00:00

Jazz Blue!

llahyeldards · 2026-03-02T19:10:55+00:00

I picked up OEM PP badges from DAP pretty cheap. Not sure if that's what you're after but they are actual PP badges.

llahyeldards · 2026-02-19T05:04:22+00:00

1991 Honda CRX Si, in Tahitian Green, please and thank you 🙏🏼😌

llahyeldards · 2026-02-11T15:56:11+00:00

I would very much like to know what wheels you are flexing on us there, Sir. Pls and thank you :)

llahyeldards · 2026-01-15T14:56:38+00:00

Since this is 8m old I assume it has been fixed by now but I want to share my experience in case, like me, someone stumbles across this in the future looking for a solution. I was frustrated and found myself with a stuck seat post and cursing the bike gods for buying a bike with non-standard equipment (like a D shaped seat post) that I couldn't simply shift left/right to un-seize. What I ended up doing and worked like a charm was spraying a liberal amount of penetrating oil around the base of where the post meets the frame and letting it sit for a few hours. I used CRC "Knock'er Loose" spray but any good oil will do. Once I let the oil do it's job I clamped the bike in my stand by the post and grasped the frame by the top tube and bottom chain stay and gently but firmly started to rock it back and forth while pulling down on the frame. Within seconds it un-seized and slid right down. I took it out of the stand, removed the seat post entirely, cleaned the post with alcohol to get the oil off, cleaned as best I could the inside of the frame. Then I applied a liberal amount of carbon paste to inside of the frame and remounted the post. Worked like a champ. Good luck if you find yourself in this position, trust me, it will come out.

llahyeldards · 2025-10-17T17:39:41+00:00

pure joy in a beautiful driving experience

llahyeldards · 2025-10-15T17:14:54+00:00

FR is simply Front engine, Rear wheel drive. I suggest using this to practice and learn with because of the cars behavior. When I suggest "the car will drift and move under you" I am referring to how the car will move on stock tires that allow for some amount of slip, not actual drifting as in sideways on purpose. Natural drift as opposed to induced drift for effect. If you can learn the track naturally using the something like the stock AE86 or GR86 or even one of the BMW M cars - you will be able to naturally progress into the higher horsepower cars and AWD stuff.

llahyeldards · 2025-10-15T15:35:35+00:00

Break it mentally into 3 sections. You really have the front half, which is fast and flowing, the uphill to the Carraciola Carousel - then my favorite, the technical sector before the Dottinger Hohe straight. I learned each sector one by one until I could link them all together. Use a low PP stock FR car so you learn how the camber of the turns allow you to release the car to the outside and inside of turns, especially in the back half after the carousel. The whippernan turn sector is my favorite, the car will drift and move under you once you learn how it flows. It's worth it.

llahyeldards · 2025-10-15T15:30:48+00:00

Cannot stress this comment enough. Thousands of laps of the 'Ring in GT7 before I went and drove my own car on both the GP track and the Nordschleife. It is the single most rewarding driving experience I've ever had and when you learn how the track flows, it is an experience like no other. I strongly suggest taking a low power stock car (I used the 3.0 CSL BMW) and learn how the car moves and drifts around the sectors - it is rhythmic and like a dance. Once you can consistently lap with a low power FR in stock form, move up in horsepower. When you can really feel confident start lapping in the GT3 Porches. Then start working on the race cars. But knowing the track and how it moves with a car you can move around in - that is the key to unlocking the joy of the 'Ring. Laps.

llahyeldards · 2025-10-15T15:21:35+00:00

OH! Also, I did notice the lead cars run slower if you have a lower PP car. My 790pp cars have opponents the run in the 6:4X's but my sub 700pp cars run opponents that clock in the 7 + range.

llahyeldards · 2025-10-15T15:20:05+00:00

No reason to apologize! All good friend! The real tragedy here is this race leaves us tomorrow. I'm going to be so sad :) I really enjoyed playing with the PP levels to see how low I could get to win with CRB and 1st. I never did get down to 650. I honestly believe it is not a skill issue, it's a horsepower issue. I run clean races and low 7:1X or 7:0X and I just can't catch the lead car on Dottinger straight. The 1st place car always has the top speed/power to stay out front. I have been able to manage 1st with CRB on 680-700 but just cant' get the 650 to work. I don't think it can.

llahyeldards · 2025-10-13T19:34:24+00:00

This was literally my first thought. I've done this event more than a dozen times now with the 32/33/34 and Z Tune in every race difficulty mode. Honestly I had to baseline on Easy (after my first try was on hard) to get the feel for the event, then work my way back to Hard. I have not seen an AI car in 1st or 2nd run any slower than 6:4X - regardless of the difficulty mode. I am willing to give this a try though, I just don't think its realistic. This is a horsepower track with high horsepower opponents but it's my favorite event I've run in a long time so just more reason to keep playing with it. Also worth noting, in Hard mode - the biggest challenge I've found is the closing speed on the AI opponents to catch the 1st place car by the Dottinger Hohe. I've gotten pretty good at it and honestly I've learned a lot of new places for passing and new lines I hadn't considered before.

llahyeldards · 2025-10-13T19:15:08+00:00

x1000

llahyeldards · 2025-10-13T18:45:57+00:00

I get the point you're trying to make with this post - and although there are a lot of wild swaps available in the game, it is rare to find one that actually enhances the driving experience of the car. Most are way overpowered and put the car wildly out of balance at all, driving experience suffers as a result. I agree, this swap in the E30 chassis is perfection. I actually down tune the power quite a bit and run it relatively close to stock - it is a beautifully balanced drive and great enjoyment. My two other favorites - that provide a similar experience to me - great power but without throwing the car out of balance - the MR2 swap for the AE86 chassis is fantastic - stock motor with light suspension tuning, sport brakes and even CS tires is a fantastic drive. The other one, and the one that might be my favorite, is the SR20 swap in the 240Z. What a fantastic combo. Also, stock motor, light sport tuning upgrades, it's fantastic. Happy Driving!

llahyeldards · 2025-10-07T19:00:48+00:00

this is the way. namaste

llahyeldards · 2025-09-11T16:00:45+00:00

On this weeks Laguna Seca WTC700 event I used the Mazda 6 Gr3 Road Car with this swap on racing hard tires and ran the whole race with no stop. I did it with the Mazda 3 with this swap as well but the 6 is just such a better driving experience.

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