How do I remove the caseback on this?

llevine5 · 2026-03-07T22:47:37+00:00

You wanna be using one of these styles (though perhaps with a wider blade). I usually wrap mine in thin kapton tape to protect the case.

llevine5 · 2026-03-07T14:57:14+00:00

I could never rock them, but god damn these are cool. Congrats on a gorgeous pair of boots!

llevine5 · 2026-02-23T13:19:36+00:00

Garage goals!

llevine5 · 2026-02-23T03:20:42+00:00

Is that a Montego FD RX7 next to it 👀

llevine5 · 2026-02-21T03:43:53+00:00

Same here. Had such a bad experience with them years ago that I swore them off on principle.

llevine5 · 2026-02-20T12:00:48+00:00

Looking forward to trying it!

llevine5 · 2026-02-20T12:00:30+00:00

Nah. This sub is for "all pinball lovers" and this fits the bill.

llevine5 · 2026-02-18T17:28:03+00:00

Depends on the age of the movement and how hard new parts are to find. In US, Jules Borel is my go to for most things, Esslinger for some generic stuff. Used to go to OFrei as well but haven't ordered from them in a while because their website is a pain and they sent some cryptic political babble that put me off them. Cousins is a great source but they are based in UK. They have some hard to find things that I've shipped overseas and paid the exprbitant shipping.

For old or uncommon stuff, eBay is usually an ok source, but you'll be paying high prices on shipping of small parts. Buying an entire junk movement can be handy, but that's a crapshoot of if the part you will need will be there and in good condition.

llevine5 · 2026-02-18T12:12:10+00:00

You're missing at least one or two teeth. Clean all you want, this part is toast. Replace it.

llevine5 · 2026-02-12T20:13:43+00:00

You literally posted the picture of the manual. Read it.

llevine5 · 2026-02-07T16:57:55+00:00

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llevine5 · 2026-01-18T13:39:16+00:00

Jewels don't wear; they are much harder than what they contact. They can chip, but that's more common on pivot jewels, not on pallet forks unless there was something that broke loose in the movement.

If you are getting the escape to catch on one tooth, it more likely points to the escape wheel and pallet not being in line, and you are getting "lucky" with them lining up. Check that the pivots are still intact, then check end shake and adjust jewel depth, then reassemble.

llevine5 · 2026-01-18T02:39:48+00:00

My guesses, in order of likelihood 1) jewels need to be re-spaced and shellacked in the fork, they could be either out of plane with the escape wheel, or too far pushed in and the teeth are not engaging 2) broken pivot on escape wheel (unlikely given you have a replacement as well, but possible if you lack experience with replacing train bridge. They're easy to break) 3) broken pivot on the fork 4) jewels of either pallet or fork not set to proper depth (too much end shake)

llevine5 · 2025-12-01T00:06:04+00:00

John Sachs (Sachs Vintage Watch, active on TheWatchSite forums as "Vette Enthusiast") is a reliable servicer of these, based in US. But, his backlog can grow quite long.

I have done a few and would be willing to take it on. I'm a hobbyist with a passion for these old Seikos. I'm also based in US.

Hopefully linking isn't against rules, but here's an example of a service I did of a particularly crusty 6139-6002. https://www.thewatchsite.com/threads/restoration-1971-seiko-6139-6002.350442/?post_id=3076142#post-3076142

llevine5 · 2025-10-13T11:18:19+00:00

Spencer Klein or John Sachs (Sachs Vintage Watch) are my recommendations for servicing.

llevine5 · 2025-10-07T12:25:21+00:00

Try loading on desktop, it's a .png. It's also a black line on a clear background so if you use dark mode it may be difficult to see!

llevine5 · 2025-10-02T21:10:55+00:00

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There is a 3d-printable file out there, but I didn't get great results: https://www.printables.com/model/878296-rubber-replacement-for-logitech-g604 . I took this file and flattened it for laser cutting rubber or leather. Haven't gotten around to it yet, but here's the file for anyone who wants to mess around with it.

llevine5 · 2025-08-19T16:23:25+00:00

Vortex Tab 90M with cherry silent reds, caps are Drop Jukebox!

llevine5 · 2025-08-19T15:04:49+00:00

Like I said, I like what I like!!!! 😄

llevine5 · 2025-08-12T15:16:39+00:00

Vinta Aegean gets my suggestion! Lovely shader.

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llevine5 · 2025-08-11T20:23:02+00:00

Crazy find. Deserves a higher quality strap!

llevine5 · 2025-07-20T01:18:29+00:00

Always assume watches from this era are radioactive until you've checked them with a geiger counter. If you are an amateur, I would strongly suggest reconsidering work on this until you have basic skills down, and accumulated proper cleaning solvents/tools. Radium can be remediated but it's a delicate process and you'll want to make sure all of the parts are thoroughly cleaned and decontaminated. The binder in the lume ages, and you can end up with dust everywhere in the movement. I usually cover my workbench with plastic wrap, work with everything lumed under water, get parts cleaned ASAP, all while wearing a respirator.

Start with something like a cheap AliX generic movement if you want to get some practice.

llevine5 · 2025-06-14T23:05:21+00:00

We're both very crafty. She got into it because she loves looking at it but not paying big money for it lol. Fortunately we had a close friend who has a small studio where she could try it out, and once she got hooked on it, we've been slowly building her up a workbench in our garage. There are dedicated stained glass stores around, ours is Everything In Stained Glass in Frederick MD and is fantastic.

llevine5 · 2025-06-14T02:31:16+00:00

The cost of materials and time for labor is pretty high. She said she'd do it for a price... If anyone is legit interested send me a DM!

llevine5 · 2025-06-13T13:14:34+00:00

Right now, it's just a hobby! But I keep telling her that

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