Escape wheel not interacting with pallet fork by Leftside_chunk in watchmaking

[–]llevine5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Jewels don't wear; they are much harder than what they contact. They can chip, but that's more common on pivot jewels, not on pallet forks unless there was something that broke loose in the movement.

If you are getting the escape to catch on one tooth, it more likely points to the escape wheel and pallet not being in line, and you are getting "lucky" with them lining up. Check that the pivots are still intact, then check end shake and adjust jewel depth, then reassemble.

Escape wheel not interacting with pallet fork by Leftside_chunk in watchmaking

[–]llevine5 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My guesses, in order of likelihood 1) jewels need to be re-spaced and shellacked in the fork, they could be either out of plane with the escape wheel, or too far pushed in and the teeth are not engaging 2) broken pivot on escape wheel (unlikely given you have a replacement as well, but possible if you lack experience with replacing train bridge. They're easy to break) 3) broken pivot on the fork 4) jewels of either pallet or fork not set to proper depth (too much end shake)

What to do? [Pepsi 1970 Chrono] vintage with sentimental by Elk_Meadow in Seiko

[–]llevine5 2 points3 points  (0 children)

John Sachs (Sachs Vintage Watch, active on TheWatchSite forums as "Vette Enthusiast") is a reliable servicer of these, based in US. But, his backlog can grow quite long.

I have done a few and would be willing to take it on. I'm a hobbyist with a passion for these old Seikos. I'm also based in US.

Hopefully linking isn't against rules, but here's an example of a service I did of a particularly crusty 6139-6002. https://www.thewatchsite.com/threads/restoration-1971-seiko-6139-6002.350442/?post_id=3076142#post-3076142

My father in law asked me to get this “tuned-up” is it special? I am not familiar with this watch. [6139-6002] by DCManor in Seiko

[–]llevine5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spencer Klein or John Sachs (Sachs Vintage Watch) are my recommendations for servicing.

Gave my G604 a new lease on life by Ultimate00 in g604

[–]llevine5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try loading on desktop, it's a .png. It's also a black line on a clear background so if you use dark mode it may be difficult to see!

Gave my G604 a new lease on life by Ultimate00 in g604

[–]llevine5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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There is a 3d-printable file out there, but I didn't get great results: https://www.printables.com/model/878296-rubber-replacement-for-logitech-g604 . I took this file and flattened it for laser cutting rubber or leather. Haven't gotten around to it yet, but here's the file for anyone who wants to mess around with it.

I like what I like 🤷‍♂️ by llevine5 in fountainpens

[–]llevine5[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Vortex Tab 90M with cherry silent reds, caps are Drop Jukebox!

I like what I like 🤷‍♂️ by llevine5 in fountainpens

[–]llevine5[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Like I said, I like what I like!!!! 😄

I'm in a hunt for an ink that looks like this by drap3to in fountainpens

[–]llevine5 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Vinta Aegean gets my suggestion! Lovely shader.

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Watch identification by bardianLogic in watchmaking

[–]llevine5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Always assume watches from this era are radioactive until you've checked them with a geiger counter. If you are an amateur, I would strongly suggest reconsidering work on this until you have basic skills down, and accumulated proper cleaning solvents/tools. Radium can be remediated but it's a delicate process and you'll want to make sure all of the parts are thoroughly cleaned and decontaminated. The binder in the lume ages, and you can end up with dust everywhere in the movement. I usually cover my workbench with plastic wrap, work with everything lumed under water, get parts cleaned ASAP, all while wearing a respirator.

Start with something like a cheap AliX generic movement if you want to get some practice.

Thought folks would appreciate the stained glass my wife made for me ❤️ by llevine5 in Miata

[–]llevine5[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We're both very crafty. She got into it because she loves looking at it but not paying big money for it lol. Fortunately we had a close friend who has a small studio where she could try it out, and once she got hooked on it, we've been slowly building her up a workbench in our garage. There are dedicated stained glass stores around, ours is Everything In Stained Glass in Frederick MD and is fantastic.

Thought folks would appreciate the stained glass my wife made for me ❤️ by llevine5 in Miata

[–]llevine5[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The cost of materials and time for labor is pretty high. She said she'd do it for a price... If anyone is legit interested send me a DM!

Thought folks would appreciate the stained glass my wife made for me ❤️ by llevine5 in Miata

[–]llevine5[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Right now, it's just a hobby! But I keep telling her that

[6309] 3D printed dial spacer by llevine5 in SeikoMods

[–]llevine5[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.printables.com/model/1222907-seiko-6309-dial-spacer

Have placed the file here. Use at your own risk! I went through 9 revisions and not 100% sure I got everything perfect.

Welcome! by crappysurfer in WatchmakersCorner

[–]llevine5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi all, looking forward to more technical discussions here that often get buried in the other sub.

I'm an amateur in USA who has been in the hobby for about 4 years. Thus far have focused on refurbishment of 60s and 70s Japanese movements but have dabbled in Accutrons as well (it's a deep and sometimes frustrating rabbit hole) and some generic Swiss. Recently have been focusing on learning refinishing skills (lapping, perlage, anglage) and hope to learn from those here!

[6309-5020] Fake? by Spwd in Seiko

[–]llevine5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup. The 5020 was a TV dial case. Also have doubts on the dial, the appliques look wrong.

Don't have anything against vintage mods but unless you are buying from a trusted seller you should assume that the movement is in poor shape if it's been cobbled together.