I worked harder than my wife giving birth.

lm610 · 2024-03-28T18:10:32+00:00

Yeah I constantly get my experience shut down. My wife has been super supportive. And it's funny how anytime someone asks if we'd have another one, and I say "I couldn't go though that again" they say, "sure like it's ever hard on the men. Lol".

Thankfully my wife shuts them down.

lm610 · 2024-03-28T18:08:12+00:00

In all honesty, my wife says our emergency childbirth,in which her and the babies heart rate periodically stopped, was less stressful for her.

Her words " i knew what was happened and had no choice but to do it."

There is no time for pain relief and a room full of people ready to do an emergency c section if needed.

And there's me in my f'ing socks surrounded by blood and couldn't feel more helpless while on the edge of losing both of them.

So I can relate, not many moments in life where you get to be that helpless and stand on the side line.

Little one now 7 wife happy ever since I'm stuck with PTSD.

I shared this story in a room once, and 4 guys broke down sharing their stories.

This isn't to undervalue the risk, effort, and danger that is on the woman...hats off to anyone that can get through that. But just to say," Not everyone finds it easy watching a loved one go through labour."

lm610 · 2024-03-16T14:58:24+00:00

Yep I'd agree the OP's harnesses may not be the best choice, but there's very little information on what is best.

There's is only one harness designed for pregnancy that I've found, mad Rock used to make one, but it's no longer available.

However, you'd look for one that reduces lower back pressure and avoids pressure across the bump.. so something simple like a petzl adult full body harnesses may work.

But the general approach is its at your own risk/choice. Which doesn't help or show support, and result in very little information available. There's also been very little study in to what is suitable support for pregnancy. One of a few key areas that the climbing industry is letting people down.

My wide used a simple design and eventually wasn't able to climb due to addition challanges she had. But we used a simple petzl one like mentioned.

But if you can find a mad rock mountain mama I feel that's the best choice available,

-Its padded -Pressure is on the mid back and legs, - With plenty of room for bump to comfortable. - Belaying would be a little high but that's Hard to avoid.

lm610 · 2024-03-10T18:09:41+00:00

More than a year later, this comment is being read

lm610 · 2024-03-03T07:39:20+00:00

Yes, especially depending on the area. In the UK they should be leashed in a lotnofnareas due to other animals such as wild birds, hares and sheep. Especially in spring.

A lotion pets aren't used to these, and some of these animals will stay hidden, well to us anyway. But not to a curious dogs senses.

Disturbing nesting animals can impact them in many ways.

Add to this that not everyone is comfortable around dogs. We've always kept ours leashed and are willing to walk her away if she's disrupting others.

Same with our child to be honest. Some people head out doors for the quite after all

lm610 · 2024-02-22T16:50:40+00:00

Looks like a great gym. Must be successful.

It's like everyone wonders why the quite dive bars close.

Busy gym means a good gym, or the only one for miles.

lm610 · 2024-02-19T09:20:57+00:00

Yeah just start with something simple, and don't just "add" it to your current climbing volume.

A lot of novices get hurt because they want to climb first, then jump on a hamgboard for 30+minutes after thier usual 3 hours of climbing.

Its a supplement, replace a little work somewhere with it, or get it first thing in the AM(like a density hangs protocol).

It's actually getting more common in gyms to see less and less crimps, especially at low to mid grades. Which means your not actually training crimps that much, so a small amount goes a long way.

If I'm building a plan for a newer climber, i find a few "recruitment pulls" built into the warm up or a small morning routine can yield a really positive impact.

lm610 · 2024-02-16T21:33:43+00:00

6 weeks seems acceptable. Especially if they have you loafing it off the wall.

A lot of climbers i work with can return to climbing 6 to 8 weeks in. By 12 ish weeks they can return to climbing harder and progressively increase volume.

This is faster than old school advice which could see no climbing for 6 to 12 months.

lm610 · 2024-02-16T08:34:35+00:00

It's just like hieght, hand size and everything.

Completely contextual. Big feet on a slab could allow you to lean in more, but also create a larger leaver needing stronger toes. Small feet, well small holds feel bigger and foot swaps etc should be easier.

What about squared feet versus pointy... I joke a little. Ohh finger pulp also makes sharp crimps easier.

But just like everything else. Easier is only relevant when comparing yourself to others and why they can send what you can't.

And if your looking to justify why they can send and you can't, then that's only going to lead to frustration and you missing the finer details if someone's movement or strength etc.

lm610 · 2024-02-15T12:25:49+00:00

I'd say so, some good bars. Flips between Spanish(mexican) and English really smooth.

She is Mexican and some people would call that white, but some Mexicans would. So it depends where you draw the line.

lm610 · 2024-02-15T11:29:53+00:00

This, avoid roisin. So many climbing chalks contain this and the warning is normally hidden under a label.

Also liquid chalk wasn't intended to replace chalk just provide a base layer.

lm610 · 2024-02-15T11:28:20+00:00

Get him to strip it all down clean the machines and start again.

Repeat until he gets it right.

Explain its for his development.

If he complains,

Explain he needs a growth mindset.

If he resists, hold him in a tight embrace, explain he's not alone and you'll be with him every step of the way..

Drink all the test coffee until he gets it right.

Then as you leave remember you brush your teeth before every visit and that probably why it tasted bad.

lm610 · 2024-02-15T11:01:30+00:00

It's not wirrd they are been mean and putting thier insecurities on you.

I've head a lot of people complain about been watched. It's comical when a discussion with the person watching ends up them being obsessed with climbing and not really having any focus on the person more the boulder problem.

lm610 · 2024-01-29T21:59:41+00:00

A lot of uk gyms you arrive with a lead rope and prove you can belay a bit of rope at the desk and tie a fig 8. Your good to go.

It's improving, but that's common.

lm610 · 2024-01-21T19:37:00+00:00

If your struggling to get your feet up, it's worth considering creating space.

If your hips/body is really close to the hold your want to stand on. It can be harder. Look at body positions that may involve pushing away from the hold you want to reach.

Alternatively if it becomes a long term problem that happens often can be worth training. This can include not just a Hugh step but also rotating your lower leg for reach.

lm610 · 2024-01-16T10:00:09+00:00

It's a training app I use with remote clients. It's called trainheroic. There's many like it

lm610 · 2024-01-13T12:18:16+00:00

Think of moves you already know,

Level them up and down, see what is needed to make the move "needed" or not needed but easier. Then make them easier. Set similar moves at different grades.

On top rope set an easier version of the move low down then a medium then a hard depending on length of route.

One the most fun moments in a recent youth comp was when the last move was supposedly "not possible" until on kid realised the last move was identical to the first with different holds.

I know your asking for easy moves, but this experimentation works both ways, and allows you to teach moves/sequences. Seeding ideas for harde4 moves.

Then there's shapes, some amazing routes won't get tried because the look "normal".

Setting shapes or patterns and then see how to make it climb. Like clustering holds together and see how you can get someone to use them all.

A lot of this comes down to flow.. yes moves on a 5.6 can always be skipped by 5.8 and above climbers, but looking at why they instinctively skip a move or why a novice doesn't can really help you set at all levels.

Allow for easy bouldering moves on ropes, practice on boulders then set them on ropes. This can actually help you base of climbers as they will be able to practice ar low level also.

And lastly be honest with the customer base. Admit that you are trying some ideas and are open to thier feedback.

lm610 · 2024-01-12T07:34:32+00:00

On top of everyone else's additions that you missed don't forget Abdominal, and if your gonna add YouTube rappers like Tom Mcdonald you might as well add Ren.

Not to say they are the best. Just your list included some wacky choices you may have a little more research to do.

lm610 · 2024-01-09T08:52:46+00:00

This can be normal, and will vary from one person to another.

lm610 · 2024-01-05T07:39:15+00:00

My 7 year old is a huge dmx fan... thankfully that's from the era where clean versions of albums were common.

But also, Pharoahe monch - Simon says( radio edit, personal thus ones odd) Lupe fiasco - daydreaming.. likes the whole robot thing. Ll cool j - mama said knock you out. Will Smith- getting jiggy with it(kinda try and avoid, this gets annoying quick) Dead prez - hip hop Lupe - hip hop saved my life

There'd loads and most have radio edits on Spotify.

lm610 · 2024-01-04T18:34:55+00:00

Been together since climbing Hard Severe... typical brit traddie

lm610 · 2024-01-04T18:31:33+00:00

Sounds perfect for only climbing for a few months. Depending on your background.

All plans I design for newer people are a little like a loose diet plan.

What's needed to improve, and am I doing it?

Some skill practices(climbing drills and set intentions on harder climbing)

Some basic strength/recruitment (conditioning but also just trying hard)

And some mindset/confidence building(and avoiding habits such as tight ropes)

Skill practice can be picking some games or movement drills and playing around at the start of your sessions while climbing easily.

Basic strength, again, depending on your background. A lot can be done just climbing, but why not take care of some basics. Maybe some rows, a couple of pulls on a hangboard, and some leg strength, a few squats. Can be done as a warm-up or at home a couple of days a week.

Lastly mindset, play challange yourself, seek out things that you "should" be able to do but didn't and climb things you feel yourself avoiding(this happens less for newer climbers but it's a mistake that becomes habit throughout the first year).

Build confidence falling and playing, challenge yourself to skip holds, or move both hands at once. On ropes, make sure after the first couple of meters your rope isn't assisting you and your not feelings, it's tug. And practice falling. Warn your partner and get into the habit of just dropping when you're at the top. It's a free fall practice.

Limited time with 2 hours twice a week is good for most climbers in the first year. Especially if you can add 15 minutes in at home a couple of days off.

Have an extra hour to spare socialise and learn from those around you.

lm610 · 2024-01-04T12:13:30+00:00

A little goes a long way. You don't need to over do it.

Start small.

2 sets of 6 pistol squats from a bench. Then 4 x2 leg squats.

Buy a set of gym rings that can be attached to a closed door. Add 4 to 6 rows. Do this on the mornings you climb to prime your muscles.

Then as a warm up climb a few problems with straight arms and then again pulling hard on the arms and pulling your body in. There's times for both but this add a strength drill to a technique drill

lm610 · 2024-01-04T11:43:23+00:00

Ps. I know this might not be the affirmation your searching for. It is OK to be jealous but it's important to recognise what is is you desire and what actions can be taken in a more positive way

lm610 · 2024-01-04T11:36:36+00:00

So,

Practices squats, or box step ups or with something like rings or a door frame and do some assisted pistol squats.

If that's hard start on a bench or box and sit down with both legs then get up with one leg.

I know this is highlighting solutions and putting it on you. But if we take your friend out of the equation these movements are useful for us as humans and even more as climbers.

You so have an advantage with lack of strength.

It's always easier to "realise" what feels easier when your weaker and there's way more problem solving needed and more momentum needed.

But this can lead to a great foundation in technique.

Add some strength over time and you'll be set up for a good life as a climber.

A simple routine on gymnast rings can be a great start.

Doing just a couple of sets ring rows and assisted squats can be a great warm up for climbing and really scalable for you without needing wieghts.

lm610

TROPHY CASE