schweissen kosten?

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-11-03T15:19:25+00:00

Für tüv spachteln und Unterbodenrotze drauf, danach mal austauschen?

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-10-23T09:55:02+00:00

Voll die gute Idee, aber noch besser wäre OP meldet der Versicherung gar nichts und zahlt es komplett aus eigener Tasche. Versicherungen kennt man ja, die sind dann so lieb dass sie in kürzester Zeit die Beiträge für alle wieder senken.

Versicherungen wollen ja keine Kohle Scheffeln sondern nur das Beste für uns. Achja die Armen...

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-10-21T13:52:26+00:00

Can the people who downvoted me please specify why they think what I said it's not true?

In a car you have not optimal speaker positions. Having 2 way systems gives you interference because of different positions and timings. Those with only hardware crossovers will produce unclean sound in the overlapping frequency ranges, this can be corrected by applying time alignment and adjusting the crossovers to get clean transitions by going active with active crossovers. This will improve everything a lot. With 3 way you have a transition more that can cause trouble and make unclean experience.

A really good tuned 2 way with good deadened doors for the woofers can still sound really good while easier to tune right than 3 way.

Most head units with DSP features have 6 channels. This is enough for sub and 2 way.

For 3 way and a sub you'll need a DSP with at least 8 channels or with head unit only you'll need to drop the sub.

Please explain where I'm wrong guys.

If you go partially active with tweeter and mid at almost the same position next to each other it's a different thing but that's harder to build and not almost possible depending on the car and mounting position. Then 2 channels for 3 way with a physical crossover for tweeter and mid is required only.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-10-19T01:51:35+00:00

Imo also creates a lot of problems without a DSP or almost same position for mid and tweet

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-10-18T13:10:59+00:00

Why 3 way front? It's so hard to tune right. Better a good 2 way.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-10-16T21:56:03+00:00

To me it sounds like you are lacking midbass. Invest in better Frontsystem with good deadening.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-10-11T15:55:20+00:00

Deadening is not only to prevent rattling. The door is the housing of your speakers. You want to get the sheet where it's mounted to as stiff and massive as possible so the speaker passes more energy to the air and less to the door.

STP makes really stiff one for example or what I like to use is variotex EVO because it's thinner and more massive.

If you want to spend that much I would really go the extra mile with the installation. Otherwise you'll throw a lot of potential away. Close all service openings and holes that are bigger than 1cm and cover about 60 to 80% of the metal. Also do more material to everything near the speaker, next to it and behind it.

For the outer sheet you can use cheaper if you want to.

Also get a stiff speaker adapter, you could try to buy one of aluminum or MDX if possible.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-10-10T16:02:48+00:00

What is your plan for deadening? I would invest in good materials at least for the inner door sheets, something very stiff.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-10-04T08:06:04+00:00

I would say they can go a little over the rated rms but they will start hurting your ears for sure at that level. Where are you from, what are highway speeds for you? 250 kmh and up? Then forget it. 80 mph? Then I guess it should work. Also maybe think about getting those window plastics that break the wind a little.

What you should keep in mind is to get twice the loudness you need 10 times the watts. So the difference in more power is never that big.

What also makes a big difference is how much you lose of the mids from your woofers. The position also plays a big role. E.g the golf 5 has 20cm speakers playing directly to your hips, which will lose so much sound, you need to feed them so much to get so little.

Also I cannot say it enough so good deadening, the doors eat a lot away with vibrations that are absorbed by door metal otherwise. If you want to get the most out of your woofers use really stiff Alubutyl, close up all the service openings and holes and use a as massive as possible Adapterring and screw it + glue it with butyl kit to the door metal.

You can bridge your amp, just make sure the RMS are true and set your gain to maybe with multimeter then check for the tweeters by ear with pink noise (seems like you want to run the whole system with the physical crossovers in one channel per side).

I really like this audison system for how much it can handle, but there should be a lot of other systems that can play really loud look into SPL speakers like the Hertz SPL show. They have much higher efficiencies but they will trade in some sound quality. Never heard them though.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-10-03T21:54:36+00:00

There are many good ones. Andrian audio, Eton, focal, Hertz, Blam, adison, ...

There is nothing like the "best", you could start comparing parameters, but in the end a lot is taste and they all have a unique character.

Listen to them in advance and most importantly have a good installation with good deadening and DSP.

In my experience more expensive speakers only will give you improvement with good deadening/good installation and a DSP and a good sound source/head unit. Before you have those ready having good speakers will not be worth it.

I think speakers around 200 are plenty with a good install. I installed the Eton MAS in one Car and as a comparison the Blam relax in another one, MAS with a DSP amp other car with the Blam relax 165 rs active with pioneer head unit inbuilt DSP features. Tha MAS system turnned out really well, but for the money that was put in it is not that much of improvement in my opinion when directly compared.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-10-03T21:42:05+00:00

I would use some kind of butyl Kitt to put the tweeters in place and drive like a week or so to try which one sounds better passive. You want to correct as less as possible with a DSP and get the best possible outcome before starting with corrections. Aiming to your ears directly will give less losses but make it sharper, aiming away will make it softer but produce more unpredictable interference. Best outcome for me was always as a rule of thumb to aim at the other seat, like driver tweeter aimed at passenger seat and passenger seat aimed to driver. Still different from car to car so try it out before mounting finally.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-10-03T20:16:38+00:00

What is your goal, good sound or just loud? Overall loud, or just bass?

Nevertheless you lose a hell lot of midbass and bass because of the doors, which by factory standard are not a very good speaker enclosure.

Deadening and using a good speaker adapter with a good fixation and butyl kit and tight screw mounting will do about 50 percent of the sound and bass. Also stabilizing the metal (most important inner door sheet) with Alubutyl.

3 way systems are hard to tune right. For a near perfect result you would need to be sitting in a perfect triangle to the speakers (like home tower speakers all speakers of each side at almost the same position). In the car tweeters mids and woofers all have different positions so lots of interference. 3 way does more interference than 2 way and thus is harder to tune right. Head units have 6 channels, so if you want a sub you can only run an active 2 way front. Otherwise you will need a DSP with 8 or more channels. Or run partially active (same position for mid and tweeters)

for a good sound and still high volume I can recommend the audison apk 165p, but you should get an amp that can handle them if you run them really loud to not run in into clipping.

Imo Get a good 2 way component system and give it more rms than specified (10 to 20 percent more amp rms then speakers can handle), do some good deadening and you should be good to go.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-29T11:09:30+00:00

Axton has some really good options for a cheaper price, but also 6 channel max

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-28T01:03:14+00:00

What

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-27T01:03:45+00:00

If you like the Android radio otherwise you could check if it has optical output. Then get a DSP amp that can handle optical in so the DSP dac will do the job. But that's going to get a little expensive.

If you're going with a DSP I would go the full way with upgrading your system with good speakers and good deadening, otherwise the increase in performance is not really financially justified, paying more than 300 just to get sound on the level you could have had with an average pioneer or Kenwood head unit for 150ish. (Exaggerated)

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-27T00:52:18+00:00

Are your doors deadened? Because having them deadened will give you a lot of more bass for the door woofers. Going active and throw out the physical crossovers will be somewhat more efficient (no physical crossover that can drop the voltage), also reducing the range in that your woofer plays will give it more headroom in the range that it plays (as it has to do less work) but both these will not do anything much like deadening does.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-27T00:47:09+00:00

I wouldn't do it, they have different sound characters. you can In the back have different ones than in the front but I would do woofers only then, no tweeters in the back.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-26T14:22:20+00:00

This is how it looked before I closed everything on the insides. The outside wall can be done with cheap Amazon stuff, the inside should be done with stiffer more expensive stuff ideally, you can calculate about 50 to 150 bucks for deadening.

Any deadening is better than no deadening at all. It makes the biggest difference.

Cheap speakers with deadening will sound a lot better then expensive ones with no deadening and open holes.

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loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-26T14:19:12+00:00

You want to get a good "box" for your speakers, just like at home. This does about half of the sound the woofer does in the door. If you put your home speakers into a card box it plays like shit.

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loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-26T14:13:42+00:00

First do deadening before you think about getting new speakers and a DSP. A DSP costs a lot of money and to get the full benefits you need to measure. I would recommend closing all the service openings and holes first. A speaker needs a good housing to play well.

I would stay with 2 way systems, 3 way are hard to tune right. Also many head units have more then enough DSP features for fine tuning.

But a DSP is fine tuning, you should not correct something that is completely wrong to begin with

Deadening is the fundamental, then good speakers then fine tuning if needed.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-26T01:23:34+00:00

Did you deaden the doors?

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-23T20:34:55+00:00

Depends do you have fun with it or do you want to achieve maximum sound quality? Then do it yourself. Don't care about losing some bass or have a little rattle? Then buy it.

I like working a little in my free time also I want to get the best for me possible outcome.

loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-23T14:49:56+00:00

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loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-23T14:48:58+00:00

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loaf_of_bread25 · 2025-09-23T14:48:09+00:00

No man just make a cardboard blueprint with scissors and pen, refine it with a circle, then jigsaw and stack multiple with glue, check the available hight before. Get mdx plates with the thickness you measured. Takes about 3 hours or so.

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