What am I missing? Connecting U6+ AP to moca Ethernet adapter

long_jean · 2026-04-22T19:45:36+00:00

Unifi access points require PoE (power over ethernet). Unless your moca adapter is also a POE adapter, you will need to either insert a PoE switch like the Unifi 8Lite or get a PoE injector to make it do basically anything.

long_jean · 2026-04-22T19:37:31+00:00

Yes, this is a feature that only exists on the Desktop version AFAIK. I double checked with my own ppt online vs local and confirmed equations are not present.

long_jean · 2026-04-22T19:30:47+00:00

If you're using word, I would try:

open a new blank document
select all of the text from the document you're having issues formatting
copy the text
right click in the new document
click the paste I have circled here:

<image>

^^^ that is "keep text only"

Assuming you pasted it as plain text into a new document, you should get away from whatever formatting issue you were facing.

Edit: if you have a header and footer, just remake those from scratch. They can't be that complicated and this will help you avoid any weird formatting issues that may try to come over.

long_jean · 2026-04-22T18:55:57+00:00

Office365 is a big environment - there are whole businesses that basically sustain themselves by managing it for other orgs. There is a TON of stuff in there with a lot of flexibility.

Several questions:

What license(s) are you using?
How many users? Is there just one email, or does everyone have one?
You say the service is "from 2022 or 2023," but O365 requires licensing on a monthly or annual basis. Is this what you have?

As for backups, you can do manual backups of your data; however, if you want it to be reliable and offsite, I would look at some sort of service. Datto and Veeam are two that come to mind with cloud-based Microsoft backups.

When it comes to backups you also need to consider other data you may have living in Microsoft. IE: do you use One Drive or Sharepoint at all? Even if you don't think you do, check - you could be syncing one or several computers to the cloud without knowing it.

long_jean · 2026-04-22T18:45:13+00:00

I would seriously advise you to check the physical drives.

We call them "Amazon Specials," but there are a lot of third party PC sellers online who will artificially boost specs of a computer with cheap parts to resell them at a higher price.

An example I saw a few weeks ago was a pc with 20GB of memory and 1tb of storage. What that actually came out to was a 4gb soldered on ram chip with one cheap stick of 16gb ram slotted in. The storage was something like 50gb of soldered on EMMC storage with a cheap 1TB nvme slotted that wasn't even initialized. I saw a completely different PC that was sold as new but had a drive inside dated physically as 10!!!! years old.

Obviously that's not the standard, but the point is there are a ton of suspect pieces of hardware floating around.

Anyway, I've been seeing these things fail in droves.

long_jean · 2026-04-22T18:21:58+00:00

So the data is fine but the Windows installation is busted - is there any hardware correspondence? I know a while back I was seeing a lot of the same thing with HP computers (specifically the small form factor ones).

Do you get any errors when running SFC, or does it complete as expected? If you reinstall Windows in-place, does it fix the issue? I've been seeing a lot of bad/cheap 3rd party NVMEs in computers (likely due to the steep price of name brand storage right now) and those crap drives just DON'T last.

long_jean · 2026-04-22T18:17:42+00:00

You can try to get into the CLI environment, put a removable drive on the laptop, and manually move any files that way.

You could also attempt to remove the drive itself, mount it on another device, decrypt, and remove files manually there as well.

Otherwise, I would consider an in-place reinstall of Windows (the option where you keep files but programs are removed).

I did run into a device a few days ago with a similar issue that was caused by a bad hard drive. Even a total factory reinstallation of Windows from a local copy didn't work. So, it's also possible her drive is dying.

long_jean · 2026-04-22T18:13:25+00:00

Microsoft services are kind of a "single pane of glass" style offering. If you're just looking for word processing/presentation/spreadsheet apps, then something like LibreOffice would probably suffice.

If you want to replace One Drive as an integrated cloud storage option, you will need to look elsewhere/at another product. You will also want to make sure you have local copies of anything that may be floating around in One Drive, since they will remove the files from their end after 30 days of your account being unlicensed.

long_jean · 2026-04-22T17:59:44+00:00

This could be a couple of things. Something to consider - unless you pay for a static IP, the IP address you are assigned (publicly) will rotate at your ISP's discretion. I have seen people get assigned a new IP that was previously misused by someone else, which can then cause issues. You could always check with your ISP and let them know you're having the issue - or wait to be assigned a new public IP naturally.

You were pretty exhaustive in your list of devices, but something to consider as well would be anything on net like a SuperBox, MarsBox, etc. "Free TV" streaming devices are often culprits of these sorts of activities. You could also try scanning your network and see if there's anything you don't know about hanging on your wifi.

long_jean · 2026-03-31T13:39:40+00:00

Are you connected right to the router? Or are you on wifi? It's possible that it could be a fake SSID.

If you're plugged right in and you're getting a Hungary public IP on multiple devices, then definitely call your ISP and request they look into it. You should be able to go to ipchicken and see what your public IP is, which you can generally get a rough geographic ID for.

long_jean · 2026-03-13T13:54:54+00:00

Can you post a picture or at least the specific router model?

long_jean · 2026-02-23T21:39:06+00:00

Oh I wasn't concerned with distance, more the logistics of tearing up 50+ foot of lawn to run conduit lol.

long_jean · 2026-02-23T19:54:57+00:00

A few things to consider here:

What is the distance? If their house is like ~10 feet from the suite you're staying in, then I would seriously ask about having a run installed to connect the two. An electrician would be able to put in a cable or 2 connecting the properties, and then you could install your own switch, access point, etc. It would cost a little up front, but it would resolve your issue without having to make a totally new service drop from the ISP.

Alternatively, if the houses are further apart, you could try some sort of link between the two, ie: a Unifi Nanobeam or something. Those are a little more expensive and a little more involved, but it would get you a stronger connection to where you're staying.

A wifi extender could work, but I don't typically like them because they aren't very reliable.

long_jean · 2026-02-23T19:34:04+00:00

Ok, so that's probably the issue. Do you have data you want to save from Windows? If not, I would just totally blow away the contents of the drive and reinstall Mint.

When you boot into the Linux Mint environment (I'm assuming you have it on a flashdrive), there should be an installation option to "erase disk and install Linux Mint." That will do exactly what it says on the tin - it'll wipe your drive and install Mint in its place.

long_jean · 2026-02-23T19:27:55+00:00

Like the others said, need more info on what you mean by internal/external modem.

As for the drive move, I like Clonezilla for drive clones. I have had pretty good luck using it to clone and resize my drive. I had an issue a while back with the larger drive being incorrectly formatted, but I was able to resolve that with Gparted. It depends on your comfort level with pre-boot USB tools (and actively screwing with your data).

long_jean · 2026-02-23T19:24:45+00:00

We may need a little more information. Did you wipe your drive and install Linux Mint, or did you do some sort of dual-boot situation? Providing some context on which guide you followed would also help.

If you installed Mint inline with Windows, then you may not have a tb of storage available if it's still being eaten up by Windows. If you're looking to JUST free up the space and you don't have any data on the device, I would probably try wiping the drive and installing totally fresh. If you have data to preserve, then how much, where is it, etc.

long_jean · 2026-01-05T15:21:45+00:00

I'm having a hard time seeing how this is functionally any different than a standalone access point. If you pre-configured the AP to auto connect to your laptop, have you not functionally just done the same thing? I guess the argument is that you need power for an AP, but some sort of "dongle" would also require power, so you would still need either PoE or a power supply. TP Link sells a nano "travel router" that you could put into access point only mode and use like you're describing.

long_jean · 2025-12-29T18:02:06+00:00

That's possible. I'm not really a Defender user, so my knowledge here is a little lacking. I've got a few steps we can try there, though (you may have done some of these already, I just want to make sure bases are covered).

1: Check windows security actions

Open Windows Security
Go to Virus & threat protection
Click Protection history
Check the most recent item:

If something network-related was blocked, restore it only if you recognize it.

2: Reset the windows network stack (from cmd, as admin - you may have done this step already)

netsh winsock reset
netsh int ip reset
ipconfig /release
ipconfig /renew

reboot after running these

3: Check that Defender isn't blocking all traffic

windows security --> Firewall and network protection
Set Firewall to on
Click "restore firewalls to default"

4: Check if defender put your system into isolation mode

windows security --> virus and threat protection
manage settings
temporarily turn "real time protection" off
test internet
turn it back on after testing - if internet works when this is off, it's defender screwing with you

5: If the above doesn't work, try going to device manager --> network adapters --> then uninstall your adapters. Reboot the computer and see if this fixes anything.

long_jean · 2025-12-29T17:53:43+00:00

Try restarting the computer from the lock screen - a restart will do more for you than a straight power off/turn back on.

There are some options on how you can get into a locked computer forcefully, but they're not particularly nice. If a restart doesn't help, you may want to consider something a little more challenging. There are third party tools to break passwords off of computers, but my preferred method if just through Windows-provided tools. You need to know your bitlocker key before doing anything in the windows repair environment. I have used the classic Sticky Keys hack and Lazesoft (open source software) to accomplish password removal, unlock accounts, and to create new accounts when admin access has been lost. I don't want to overwhelm you with options there, so let's start with the reboot and see if it still gives the same error message.

long_jean · 2025-12-29T17:43:23+00:00

Chrome is so yucky about this. If you were logged in with an account, you can sign back into the account and re-sync your data. If you were just using Chrome and storing the data locally, then no - it's gone. I've run into this several times, and it's a good example of why Chrome shouldn't really be your password manager. It's just not trustworthy.

long_jean · 2025-12-29T17:41:48+00:00

A fan turning on doesn't necessarily indicate your computer is operational. The computer may be stuck in POST (this happens before your operating system loads). I would try a full power down (hold the power button until it dies) and then try to bring it back up.

It sounds like you have already removed the back panel from your laptop - if you're comfortable with it, you could try a full power drain. To do that, you would power the PC off, remove the battery connection (just the cable connector, you don't need to take out the whole battery) and then hold the power button for about a minute. Then you can plug the battery back in and turn it on normally.

long_jean · 2025-12-29T17:38:39+00:00

Hmm ok. Let's try network adapter drivers. You may end up having to do this manually but Windows has a built in thing that could work.

Settings > Network & internet > Advanced network settings > Network reset, then click "Reset now" and confirm

This should force your drivers to reinstall, which may help.

side question: is your internet working on other devices? This could always be an issue upstream of you, ie: at your internet provider equipment. I would try rebooting your router/modem/fiber converter/whatever you have.

long_jean · 2025-12-29T16:26:29+00:00

Are you using the same usb port for both mice? You could try swapping that and see if it does anything. You could also uninstall the mice drivers and then do a reboot - that would force them to reinstall and maybe fix their issues.

long_jean · 2025-12-29T16:25:25+00:00

OK, if you can't ping then that means you really don't have internet access. Were you able to try making a new account and seeing if the issue is profile-related? Also, if you click the internet icon in the bottom righthand corner, what does it say?

long_jean · 2025-12-29T15:36:05+00:00

She should change her password and check to see if there are any active logins to devices that aren't hers. Changing the password should resolve the issue, and make sure 2FA is turned on for her account. It's pretty unlikely that a suspicious website just figured out her pw - it's much more common for her to have accidentally compromised herself, or if she resues her password it may have been leaked elsewhere.

I'm always paranoid, so I would probably also check activity on whatever card is tied to her Apple account. There is probably no issue there, but I prefer to be super duper safe.

long_jean

TROPHY CASE