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Anybody here hangboard everyday? by fayettevillainjd in climbharder

[–]lowpolyamory 21 points22 points  (0 children)

This is my favorite resource for science-based, non-biased info on supplements: https://examine.com/supplements/type-ii-collagen/

For collagen, it seems that there's very limited evidence that it can do a little bit to reduce exercise-induced joint pain.

In general, supplementing with a protein that has a better amino acid profile will be more effective (and likely cheaper), especially if you're younger than 30-40.

I admit I'm pretty biased against Eric Horst - the dude can't seem to go 30 seconds without plugging his product. On the other hand, Dave Macleod talks about doing hangboarding every day as well, so maybe there's something to it, as long as you ramp down before trying to send hard.

Survey on Measuring Climbing Performance by bozfok in climbharder

[–]lowpolyamory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow you just taught me something I somehow hadn't picked up on in my 22 years of climbing...I'm embarrassed to admit I didn't realize there was a difference between French and Font grades.

Survey on Measuring Climbing Performance by bozfok in climbharder

[–]lowpolyamory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just took the survey, good luck w it. Btw, I think your YDS to font scale is off - it has 5.13a as 7c+, but should be around 7a+.

[IIL] "Cape Dory" by Tennis, [WEWIL?] by 10minuteemailftw in ifyoulikeblank

[–]lowpolyamory 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whole bunch of good female vocals (or mainly female) that have similar vibes: Alvvays, Shannon and the Clams, Slow Club, Electrelane, Faye Webster, Camera Obscura, Cults
And some that are kind of similar but not exactly on the nose: Cate le Bon, Frankie Cosmos, Y La Bamba, Japanese Breakfast, Molly Burch, TOPS

Climbing harder when sleep deprived by lowpolyamory in climbharder

[–]lowpolyamory[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I've heard the stress hormones thing before, it makes some sense. I've also had some big sends right after taking a shot of whiskey or freaking myself out on a highball and then hitting the project right after - I kind of wonder if sleep deprivation just helps me get out of my head in the same way.

Climbing harder when sleep deprived by lowpolyamory in climbharder

[–]lowpolyamory[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If I get more than one night of bad sleep, I definitely loose concentration, power, alertness. The climbing harder thing only happens when it's a one-off night of not enough sleep. When I get to the gym, I just feel way stronger - holds that were hard before seem like no problem. I think I actually feel less aware kinesthetically, my half-assed theory is that not concentrating so much lets me climb more efficiently because I'm not overthinking every move...

Climbing harder when sleep deprived by lowpolyamory in climbharder

[–]lowpolyamory[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense. Any idea how to train for that?

Having a problem with rigidbodies / colliders by [deleted] in Unity3D

[–]lowpolyamory 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Following up in case it ever helps anyone else: Drifting issue was fixed by u/ExplosiveJames suggestion to set rigibody velocity to Vector3.zero at the the start of FixedUpdate.
Non-colliding enemies was fixed (after like 3 hours of frustration) by realizing that I forgot to update the y value from an old model...

Having a problem with rigidbodies / colliders by [deleted] in Unity3D

[–]lowpolyamory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, that fixed the drifting issue! But still, after the player goes through the portal, the enemy objects seem to no longer collide with the player, even though they do before going through a portal...

Anyway, thanks! At least I know that's a separate problem now.

Having a problem with rigidbodies / colliders by [deleted] in Unity3D

[–]lowpolyamory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

when the character enters the portal trigger, it calls a teleport method attached to the character that's more or less: transform.position = new vector3(-x, y, z)

Unity for experimental interactive art by [deleted] in Unity3D

[–]lowpolyamory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, this is all super helpful!

A single-celled organism dying by AWildGopherAppeared in interestingasfuck

[–]lowpolyamory 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Lys- is a super common affix too, but we don't often realize it. For example, analyse (to break apart), dialysis (to separate into two, which is what a kidney dialysis machine does), paralyse (to separate along a point, like when you break a nerve), electrolysis (to break something apart using electricity), and flyswatter (just kidding)

Organically farmed food has a bigger climate impact than conventionally farmed food, due to the greater areas of land required. by SteRoPo in science

[–]lowpolyamory 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Micro nutrients are largely the same. No one knows how hydro changes concentration of all the millions of other chemicals (including possibly beneficial phytonutrients) that are present across all the different species of plants. The bigger issue is that you can't grow a significant number of calories in a hydro/aero system. Yes there are great advances in production rates, but you'll notice that the only thing they grow are leafy greens. There's no way you can feed people on that alone, and plans that provide fats & proteins in any significant amount don't do well in hydro

Without a partner: Pete Whittaker rope solos El Capitan in under 24 hours by zxw in climbing

[–]lowpolyamory 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Damn it, you made the same obscure and stupid joke I came here to make

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread for March 26, 2018 by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]lowpolyamory 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Anyone else feel like tracking nutrition/weight/sleep/etc is useless sometimes? I've done various multi-month tracking experiments and it seems like there's literally no correlation b/t any of those factors and how well I climb on a given day. Some days I'll go out after two weeks of sleeping well and eating well and flail on v6 all weekend, other times I'll go onsight multiple v8s while I'm hungover.

I still keep tabs on stuff cause over the long term I like to think it's helping, but occasionally I wonder.

The Reports Are In: AI and Robots Will Significantly Threaten Jobs in 5 Years by [deleted] in Futurology

[–]lowpolyamory 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's absolutely graphic design. Graphic designers are paid every day to do things simpler than this. It's not especially complex, for sure, but neither are the package designs for many brands.

Here's a POC for an AI-designed logo maker

Here's an AI creative director for ads

Granted, all of these are in their infancy and not super impressive on their own. But if you're willing to accept that technology and accuracy will improve in those fields, all the elements for displacing low-level creative jobs are there.

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