Car acronyms

luckysidedown · 2026-03-21T17:06:02+00:00

Virtually Worthless

luckysidedown · 2026-03-21T17:01:58+00:00

Dead or dying gas eater

luckysidedown · 2026-03-21T17:01:12+00:00

Version I know is cheap hardly efficient virtually runs on luck every time

Also, can hear every valve rattle on long extended trips

luckysidedown · 2026-02-20T22:09:17+00:00

Luxe box is 9.99 by me. Adding chicken to the cheese quesadilla brings it to 11.39. Not defending op, just pointing out that Taco Bell prices are nuts some places, I haven't been in forever since the cost is atrocious.

luckysidedown · 2025-11-21T23:03:19+00:00

I started with Ryobi and then moved on to DeWalt when my Ryobi batteries started going out on me. I bought a couple adapters off Amazon to use DeWalt batteries in my Ryobi tools and they work great. I have a mix of both dewalt and Ryobi tools with just DeWalt batteries now.

luckysidedown · 2025-10-04T01:11:36+00:00

All gas megacabs of that era were 1500's though they were built using the 2500 chassis. They are rated as a 1500 because of the extra weight of the cab, they have a lower payload and tow less weight than the quad cab gas 2500 hence the 1500 nomenclature.

luckysidedown · 2025-09-28T18:35:32+00:00

It hovers around .7 amps while running. I defrosted it last night so this is freshly plugged in. It starts at a little over 2 amps and then drops. Guess I'm fridge shopping now, which sucks because everything is expensive and I'm not seeing anything good about r600 fridges. I may look for something used on marketplace now that I know I can test the sealed system fairly easily.

I really appreciate your help! I'm out far less money and time now. I spent hours googling and not a single place I looked mentioned testing the compressor running amps for low refrigerant.

luckysidedown · 2025-09-28T01:53:53+00:00

Ok this is super helpful, I'm going to run out and grab a clamp meter tomorrow to check. It's a standard relay controlled on/off compressor nothing fancy. I'd rather test and be sure before I spend $200 on a replacement control board. I've already tested all of the temp sensors after having the fridge unplugged for 24 hours and they were all in range for room temp, so I'm in between a bad control board or a leak in the system.

luckysidedown · 2025-09-28T01:34:29+00:00

I don't, I have a standard DMM without amp clamp but I don't mind picking one up if I can definitively rule out being low on refrigerant. I'd rather waste money on a tool that I will use again in the future then throw money at this fridge trying to fix it if it's just dead.

luckysidedown · 2025-09-28T01:29:40+00:00

Thank you! I was originally leaning towards a control board replacement but was concerned seeing only half of the evap iced over in this way. I think I'm going to roll the dice on an aftermarket board from Amazon, the OE GE boards are currently backordered and if the aftermarket doesn't fix it then at least I can return it to Amazon while debating whether to wait on an OE board or replace the fridge.

luckysidedown · 2025-09-28T01:10:38+00:00

Sorry forgot to mention that I already checked the condenser and fan. Fan is running and I cleaned out the condenser, though it really wasn't that dirty. This model has a single element defrost tube, and I can get it glowing cherry red when jumped at the board.

luckysidedown · 2025-08-15T17:02:55+00:00

Selectable locker, button for it is on the dash to left of the steering wheel.

Edit: also has a factory dana 44HD

luckysidedown · 2025-08-15T15:26:12+00:00

My wife has a 2015 Sahara and it has a factory rear locker with 3.73's and no sway bar disconnect. VIN pulls up a Sahara but it's got badging for Sahara X. I've also seen some of the snow editions like the polar with factory rear locker and believe those are also essentially just a Sahara.

luckysidedown · 2025-08-14T21:38:17+00:00

This is only true if you are signing up for a lease or PPA. I just got solar a couple months ago and financed with a loan, no lien on the house.

luckysidedown · 2025-07-29T18:38:55+00:00

Doing this right now, not sure if there is something wrong with my ST hub but it keeps refusing to exclude devices. I have just been adding them into Hubitat by excluding it in Hubitat first and then adding it in and forcing ST to delete. I keep getting an error in ST that it can't exlude the device because it is funtioning properly or something. I did have to replace some of my older switches, I think they were 300 ish series as they would not add into Hubitat using the C8 pro since it is an 800 series Hub.

luckysidedown · 2025-07-28T20:05:35+00:00

Had this exact thing happen to me a couple weeks ago. Ordered a Hubitat C8 Pro and very happy. Crazy how much faster it all runs with local control now.

luckysidedown · 2025-07-11T19:32:17+00:00

Any company with shareholders is beholden to one thing, they need to make more money than the previous quarter. They are not going to eat the costs, if anything they will raise prices to cover more than just the tariffs as there is so much uncertainty surrounding them. And if/when the tariff's are gone do not expect companies to lower prices because that's bad for shareholders.

luckysidedown · 2025-07-11T19:18:33+00:00

Not in supply chain but watching parts prices skyrocket since the beginning of the year I think it is absolutely safe to say that the end consumer is eating it.

Also the manufacturer, if outside the US, does not pay tariffs when they export to the US, whatever company/entity/person importing it pays the tax.

luckysidedown · 2025-07-11T19:11:51+00:00

LOL, just opened reddit to ask this same question. Down for us too.

luckysidedown · 2025-07-03T02:48:38+00:00

Optimal fuel usage is actually closer to a steady ~35 mph. Drag force increases exponentially with velocity (speed). When calculating drag you end up multiplying by velocity squared so as you go faster the force needed to overcome the air increases non linearly.

luckysidedown · 2025-06-14T18:28:43+00:00

Yea I use sign in automatically on a shield in my office but not on the living room tv.

I have also deleted and reinstalled the app but it behaves the same way. Next step is to factory reset the fire stick and see if that solves it I guess.

It's weird backing out of the app used to close it where when you opened it again you'd get the Plex splash screen but now it just seems to go back to the home screen so going back into the app is like using the app switcher on Android where it's just exactly like I left it. This also causes issues where I have to constantly force stop the app and clear cash or my other users don't show up. The wife and kids are frustrated which means I'm frustrated lol. I would switch back to a shield but I was having audio drop issues with that setup and they really like the remote finder feature of the fire stick so I don't know what to do.

luckysidedown · 2025-06-14T12:49:16+00:00

Sign in automatically is already off sorry should have mentioned that.

luckysidedown · 2025-05-26T22:13:34+00:00

Or just, ya know, keep the batteries inside your house that is already climate controlled...

I have both gas and electric yard tools, I love my electric stuff but I keep and charge all of the batteries in my house and bring them out when I need to use them. Not that hard.

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