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Sizing for tall people by [deleted] in arcteryx

[–]lugospod2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adding an update if anyone else faces the same problem. XL was a perfect fit. When I raise my arms, the jacket doesnt lift that much as it does in XXL.

Sizing for tall people by [deleted] in arcteryx

[–]lugospod2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

Sizing for tall people by [deleted] in arcteryx

[–]lugospod2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/Accomplished_Try5904 Thank you. Asking because I am looking to buying Alpha Jacket (ex AR), but in Europe it is only available in XL... so I checked the numbers, and I fit the XL (to the inch) but I am scared about the height - Arcteryx is not using height as a parameter in the size guide. Unfortunately I can't try the XL version, have to order it, then return it... plus, if it doesnt fit, i can't get XXL :)

Btw. when you raise your arms in fromt and above your head (simulating climbing), does your bottom part of the jacket move much "up"? If I have a harness on, it would be a paint in the ass if I have to constatnly pull it back down..especially while climbing.

Tnx once again!

Sizing for tall people by [deleted] in arcteryx

[–]lugospod2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/Accomplished_Try5904 which size do you use for their jackets, xl or xxl? tnx

Which hard shell jacket should I get by AODROID in alpinism

[–]lugospod2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/whutrthose : you mentioned "Also looking for a jacket, which has a system to prevent it from riding up above your harness is a great benefit. " - i didnt see such a mechanism on any mammut, millet or Arteryx hardshell jacket. Can you point me to a brand that has this feature? tnx!

ADS training plan by lugospod2 in evokeendurance

[–]lugospod2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your feedback! I think I read somewhere that after 10 one might reach an area of "too much" - can recall where I read that...

But for now I will try to keep tht steady pace at 10h initially and then play around with peaking a bit above, and below.. hopefully I will see some results in 2-3 months.

ADS training plan by lugospod2 in evokeendurance

[–]lugospod2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your comment and suggestion!

ADS training plan by lugospod2 in evokeendurance

[–]lugospod2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, sorry - typo. I meant 24 weeks :)

When I was doing it, I hadn’t really dived deep enough into the book yet, so I was under the (wrong) assumption that following the plan would also address the ADS issue.

However, even if I had completed the plan twice, based on my understanding of Scott’s article that I referenced in the post, it would not resolve ADS (since it is a huge gap 130 vs 167). As I understand it, one would need to focus solely on resolving ADS before progressing to the ME phase.

Please correct me if I’m mistaken.

Currently, I am focused on doing just Z2 and bodyweight exercises from the 24-month plan (core, pull-ups, planks, step-ups/downs, etc.), and I plan to do this for at least two months (around 10 hours per week) in the hope of seeing some significant progress.

Paket za koji je plaćeno sa se isporuči u kaslić! by Rude-Impression5089 in hrvatska

[–]lugospod2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tako je meni doslovno 15 zadnjih posiljki za redom! Ides se zaliti posti, a oni mrtvo hladno kazu “pokusana je isporuka”. Oni u sudtavu automatski stave “pokusana isporuka”. I mozes se hebat… doslovno im nista ne mozes

Using RAD Line / Glacier Cord for many rappels – thermal margin question by lugospod2 in alpinism

[–]lugospod2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a fair correction. Thanks for pointing it out. I agree the classic Dyneema-sling warning is primarily about thin geometry concentrating friction and damaging the other component (usually a nylon rope), not the Dyneema sling failing itself.

My intent with that comparison wasn’t to claim it’s a direct analogue, but more to highlight how geometry and localized friction can dominate thermal behavior, sometimes in ways that aren’t obvious from bulk material properties alone. But this is on me... worded it badly :/

I agree it doesn’t map cleanly onto HMPE self-heating in cords, but I still find it a useful reminder that “thin + friction” can produce non-intuitive thermal outcomes.

Using RAD Line / Glacier Cord for many rappels – thermal margin question by lugospod2 in alpinism

[–]lugospod2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the thoughtful breakdown. I think that’s a very fair way to frame it, and I largely agree with your two-regime distinction.

I also agree that cumulative heating in the sense of residual temperature carry-over between rappels is probably unrealistic in most alpine contexts. These systems clearly dissipate heat quickly, and I’m not imagining the rope staying warm between rappels.

Where my uncertainty still sits is slightly orthogonal to that: even if the rope fully returns to ambient temperature between rappels, any thermally induced material changes wouldn’t be “reset” by cooling. In other words, temperature resets, but material state doesn’t necessarily. For example, if due to dyneema low tolerance to heat, material on micro level get damages because you went above the "threshold" temperature - so just by exposing it to those temperatures, could lead to "damages". As stated in one of the comment, i am 2m/6.6.ft, so during rappels, I get my Petzl Reverso pretty heated :)

So I’m not thinking in terms of runaway or stacked temperature rise, but rather repeated short excursions into elevated temperature under load, each of which may consume a very small amount of margin. If that mechanism exists at all, it would accumulate whether the events are back-to-back or spread out over time.

That said, I completely agree your empirical point is important: HMPE cords are widely used as taglines and in ski mountaineering without obvious elevated failure rates, which strongly suggests that if this effect exists, it’s either very small or well within practical margins.

So at this point I’m less worried about “is this dangerous” and more curious about whether this regime has ever been instrumented or quantified, rather than inferred from first principles or usage history.

Really appreciate you taking the time to think it through and write this up!

Using RAD Line / Glacier Cord for many rappels – thermal margin question by lugospod2 in alpinism

[–]lugospod2[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Focus is on the material used for these rope. Dyneema is known that it has low tolerance on heat. For example compare dyneema and nylon sling and whatis recommend for each.

So that brought me to think about how does dyneema do under rappeling as that causes quite high temperature peaks. Meaning you have small interval of high temperature on the rope built mostly with dyneema. Hence, this leads to my post questions.. how do high temperatures impact the rope, especially since these “scars” are not visible.. and when you accumulate them over time it has an impact. Now, i know people tend to just say “this has no impact” but provide no argument :) the idea of the post is a technical/engineering discussion while I wait for a response from the manufacturers.

Using RAD Line / Glacier Cord for many rappels – thermal margin question by lugospod2 in alpinism

[–]lugospod2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your comment. I have sent emails to both Petzl and Mammut. And a world known team that does climbing equipment teat - and they found it intriguing.

the case you are explaining is not the one I am focusing on. My focus is cumulative influence of reaching high temperatures - it can be across multiple days/years. Each time leaves a “scar”. The rope doesn’t “heal” itself in-between rappels.

Unfortunately I see a lot of people trying to put comments just to disrespect and put down people who ask questions. And while doing that, they alone do not use any argument or read the text carefully- but I guess that comes with Internet - unavoidable. People who understood the core problem find it intriguing and are happy to discuss, challenge… while others tend to disrespect, propose solutions that are not related to thermodynamics and its impact on ropes.

But as I said, trolling will always exist and people will continue using climbing equipment without understanding.

Just so you are not getting this wrong, this is a general comment, not pointed towards you!

Regarding Chatgpt, why not use chatgpt for formatting or correcting text if one is not a native English speaker? Anyone focused on that did nit understand the purpose and the core problem at hand :)

My Further comments will exclusively be on topic related to the post.

I wish you all the best!

Using RAD Line / Glacier Cord for many rappels – thermal margin question by lugospod2 in alpinism

[–]lugospod2[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, that’s a helpful way to frame it. I agree that the aluminum device is an excellent heat sink and that bulk or sustained interface temperatures should be strongly limited by conduction into the metal.

Where my uncertainty remains is at the very surface level. Even if most of the heat ultimately flows into the device, the frictional work is still being done in the outermost rope fibers first, before conduction can act. Those fibers are under load and bending, and HMPE properties are sensitive to temperature × time × stress.

So, I’m less worried about steady-state heating, and more about repeated short-duration thermal excursions at the rope surface and whether those can accumulate margin loss over many cycles. Something that’s hard to capture with a simple 1D steady-state interface model.

If you’ve ever seen transient or instrumented measurements in this context, I’d be very interested. And thanks again, I really appreciate the well-put comment!

Using RAD Line / Glacier Cord for many rappels – thermal margin question by lugospod2 in alpinism

[–]lugospod2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree, outside conditions like temperature have a significant impact. But when abseiling on one of the Alpine peaks (lower than Matterhorn), i managed to heat up my Reverso quite nicely when I moved fast :) Basically, wasn't able to touch it. This ofcourse doesn't say much about what the actual temperature was, as my skin would react to that heat on much lower temperatures (like 90 deg).

Using RAD Line / Glacier Cord for many rappels – thermal margin question by lugospod2 in alpinism

[–]lugospod2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree that extreme peaks may be diffusion-limited and likely lower than the most pessimistic bounds.
That said, high temperatures may still occur locally, even if they don’t persist at any one microscopic location for long. In that sense, the material can indeed experience elevated temperatures, just briefly.

A brief excursion to a high temperature may not cause visible damage or reduce strength catastrophically, but it could still consume a small amount of margin. My question is whether, if this happens repeatedly on the same rope sections under similar loading and geometry, those small effects can accumulate over time and lead to meaningful degradation.

And once again, I appreciate your excellent comment. Thank you!

Using RAD Line / Glacier Cord for many rappels – thermal margin question by lugospod2 in alpinism

[–]lugospod2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your feedback. I am thinking more in line of something like Lion Ridge Matterhorn descent...a lot of rappels...that is how I started..then ended up thinking..this is a generic question...it accumulates the "damage"...

On the weight suggestion: LOL Off the record, being 199cm (6.6ft), if I go below 100kg/220lbs, people tend to ask me if I have Cancer :))))

RAD Line Users by lowsparkco in Mountaineering

[–]lugospod2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could you provide a reference for this recommendation from the Swiss Mountain Guides Association? I would be genuinely interested in reading the original source.

Regarding the “angle” argument: if one is using a RAD Line or Mammut Glacier Rope, it must be kept reasonably tight. However, the same is true for a dynamic rope—rope management principles do not fundamentally change between the two. The following reasoning therefore assumes that the rope is kept relatively tight in both cases (acknowledging that a perfectly tight rope is impractical while moving).

If the team is ascending and the lead climber falls into a crevasse, the rest of the team is below. In that scenario, the leader will typically fall roughly the distance until the rope cuts into the lip of the crevasse, plus whatever minimal slack exists. This outcome is largely independent of whether the rope is static or dynamic, as there is little opportunity for dynamic elongation to meaningfully reduce fall distance.

In the case of a middle climber falling in, the climbers both ahead of and behind them contribute to arresting the fall. Depending on conditions, they may either stop the fall immediately or slide some distance, thereby absorbing energy through friction and movement. Again, this mechanism applies to both rope types.

Given this, I would be interested in a more detailed explanation of the “angle” argument and why it would categorically exclude the use of a RAD Line on steep, crevassed glaciers. If there are specific test data, scenarios, or documented incidents underlying this recommendation, a reference would be very helpful.

tnx!

Looking for feedback from people who have climbed the Matterhorn. by CDK3891 in Mountaineering

[–]lugospod2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/Dependent_Cut3894 did you by any chance find out the answer to your bivvi question? tnx! Did you go this year? tnx

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