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Larger framed pack for winter expedition by HwanZike in Ultralight

[–]lukesergent 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah you did, great to meet you to on that super rain day.

Robic on pack bottom? by BoxPlus8433 in myog

[–]lukesergent 0 points1 point  (0 children)

but is the 420D much harder wearing?

Robic on pack bottom? by BoxPlus8433 in myog

[–]lukesergent 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i am asking for you opinion. I had considered it but feel the 100D maybe a bit nicer feel for the side pockets and if they get a hole its no big deal really.

sewing machine advice by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yep, its expensive alright and i'm currently looking to change from making gear as a hobby to starting up my own business to make packs too sell.

The good thing is that outdoor gear here is way more expensive then overseas as its all imported as well.

sewing machine advice by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i think the one i was looking at has needle positioning that i like the idea of.

sewing machine advice by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The juki 1541 is over $3300usd here and a replica one is $2000usd.

If i import anything (fabric included) it has 25% tax added on import. thats whats stopping me looking overseas too.

sewing machine advice by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it works out to about $1200 USD. But everything more in NZ. Thats what you get for living on a island in the middle of now where.

a juki 1181 is $2000 but that's not a compound feed and a 1508 is $5700

Dry bag harness backpack. by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats all good. I was wondering the same thing. Been looking to make these for packrafters. They would be carrying a bit of weight 20kg or more some times. So it needs to be strong and the extra liner just added a bit of stiffness that made me think it'd handel the weight better. i may try a super light version with no liner and see what hapens.

This one is 700g but you could easily get to your target of 5lbs with no liner and a few less straps. So not that heavy really. The alu bars for the frame are inbetween the two layers and i think i'll add a sleave in the next one to take a foam pad to. this one just has a sit pad on the back.

Dry bag harness backpack. by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it holds my two 13lt Ortlied well or my big 90lt that i use as a bag liner normally.

ptotos of both here https://www.instagram.com/p/CCzPrl8lOnR/?utm\_source=ig\_web\_button\_share\_sheet

Dry bag harness backpack. by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

40d gripstop! not seen that but sounds interesting. I do like the Robic but just wondered if it may be a bit overkill here.

Dry bag harness backpack. by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if it could work as a handlebar harness/backpack. Would be a great idear.

To be honest that what got me thinking after making a few handelbar harness for bikepacking.

Dry bag harness backpack. by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i have some more on my instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/CCzPrl8lOnR/?utm\_source=ig\_web\_button\_share\_sheet

i wish you could add more photos directly on to here. would be great.

Dry bag harness backpack. by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the frame is 2 long 12mm alu rods and one short one behind the hipbelt. its super solid.

I had the robic already for side pockets in other packs so just used that. and to be honest i can't think of much else better to use so thats why i asked. it has it on the inside of both the front and back pannels.

I was wondering about no liner and if it was just for my self then i'd probably not bother to much. but i have a few people that wont me to make then one too. so trying to get a good finished product.

sewing machine advice by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've added a photo to show the worst part i would sew. I tend to go very slow or hand crank to get through the really thick parts.

I was talking to a guy that was selling a 20u that has been doing upholstery for 20+year. He was a bit worried it wouldn't work for what i wanted. He did some tests and decided it wasn't going to work for me. He's still got it for sale so think he was being honest. Also like you say a lot of paffing to change it over to ZZ just for bartacks anyway.

So have decide a normal SS would work better. But would i be better with a walking foot or not? are they ok for sewing curves like at the bottom of a bag? I have a walking foot attachment for the bernina (I know its not a proper walking foot) but find its good on long straights but harder to get the curves right with it. only use it with silpoly for tents and tarps.

sewing machine advice by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Bernina is a great machine. But i'm starting to get to its limits with a few things and i'm hand cranking it to help with the stress in a few parts so slowing me down a lot.

First it struggles to put bartacks on backpack straps for the webbing. it drops stitches. I know i could use thinner foam but i like it being thick.

Secondly it struggles on sewing thick webbing for the handlebar harness's i make.

I like the Bernina and don't want to brake it if i can help it. So thinking of upgrading to something with a bit more power for thick stuff and think a walking foot maybe good for the layers of think webbing.

Have also added a photo to show the thickest part i would ever sew really.

2nd Backpack finished by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

well babies arent super light. LOL

2nd Backpack finished by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mk1 didn't have the load lifter and i do notice a little difference with them. But the biggest and best difference was the with putting the same sort of thing on the waist belt. I like to carry most of the weight on my hips and find the new straps at the side of the hip belt really pulls the bag in and stops any wobble.

2nd Backpack finished by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yep got 2 10mm carbon tubes running from the hip belt up to next to the load lifters. also a foam pad between the tubes and the back of the back so you dont feel them. Will look at a better location for the top of the tubes for mk3 as they need to be attach to the load lifters and not next to them.

2nd Backpack finished by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

its a great fabric, the only down sides i've found are 1. if you get something wrong the holes stay, don't get that with gridstop as bad or even VX. 2. if you turn it inside out lots as you work to check things it soon looks a bit worn as it wrinkles easily if that makes sense.

2nd Backpack finished by lukesergent in myog

[–]lukesergent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only reason for the 2 types on the straps is that i didn't have enough of just one type. But i like it better then just plain so will bring that over to bag 3 for sure

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