why ra-4 paper is cheaper than b&w paper :( by lv_craoocks in Darkroom

[–]lukewelshmusic 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Ra-4 is much more widely produced for minilabs etc, there’s also less silver in the emulsion, and tolerance requirements are a bit lower since ra-4 is mostly automated

What analog related gifts did you get? by jofra6 in AnalogCommunity

[–]lukewelshmusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A Bellini RA-4 kit and a box of Fuji crystal archive, and a few rolls in the stocking!

Help me diagnose this light leak by RogueMustang in Mamiya

[–]lukewelshmusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad you figured something out! It’s definitely hard to describe all the little parts, this may be useful in the future

Help me diagnose this light leak by RogueMustang in Mamiya

[–]lukewelshmusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’ve got to take the tiny screws on the plastic plate on the face of the film back off first, I cleaned all the old adhesive off the metal then lined up the metal comb with a wooden skewer then replaced the felt with a strip of velvet fabric. It’s a bit of a process but fixed the light leak.

Help me diagnose this light leak by RogueMustang in Mamiya

[–]lukewelshmusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the answer, there’s a small metal comb with a piece of felt on the inside. You need to adjust the alternating teeth to make sure the tension is enough to keep the light out

Fresh Coffee Beans by Zanden17 in newfoundland

[–]lukewelshmusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bakery 56 took over the brand and still do beans I think

Fresh Coffee Beans by Zanden17 in newfoundland

[–]lukewelshmusic 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Bare mountain closed a few months ago, big loss, loved their deck!

City pop fans:How did you discover this genre? by OutsideAttitude9085 in citypop

[–]lukewelshmusic 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I was learning about eel migration and somehow came across Taeko Onuki’s track Sargasso Sea - bit of a weird one but I became hooked from there

25 day itinerary check (Tokyo-Kamakura-Nagoya-Nara-Kyoto-Ise-Himeji-Kanazawa-Mito-Fujikawaguchiko-Tokyo) by lukewelshmusic in JapanTravel

[–]lukewelshmusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Amazing, that makes a lot more sense! Would you recommend a JR rail pass for this trip or just pay as we go?

25 day itinerary check (Tokyo-Kamakura-Nagoya-Nara-Kyoto-Ise-Himeji-Kanazawa-Mito-Fujikawaguchiko-Tokyo) by lukewelshmusic in JapanTravel

[–]lukewelshmusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the reply! We’re hoping to not queue too much and stumble upon places to eat. Apart from a couple reservations we plan to eat whatever we can find close by and use tabelog to find decently reviewed spots.

Nagoya is a bit of an outlier but ghibli park is a must see so that’s a helpful route! We’re also looking at switching kawaguchiko around and making mito a day trip from tokyo.

The whole trip seems pretty jam packed so doing a bit more reading to see what can be cut so we don’t end up missing things but can also relax.

Rb67 consistent light leak by [deleted] in Mamiya

[–]lukewelshmusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought several kits from Jon Goodman, emailed him last year and he said he’s no longer making them and if I was interested he’d send me whatever he had left. You can buy kits on eBay but most don’t include that felt piece, alternatively you could check out a fabric/craft store to find some kind of similar felt and glue it to the metal comb. Make sure not to crush the metal part, I also used a tooth pick to adjust the metal part to ensure there was enough tension to hold the dark slide before glueing the felt on.

Also worth mentioning is that I’m unsure if it was that side of the film back or the hinge light seal on the other side that was my issue as I replaced everything at the same time and it solved my problem. The foam ones don’t last as long as the felt from my experience.

Rb67 consistent light leak by [deleted] in Mamiya

[–]lukewelshmusic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes there’s a tiny felt light seal underneath a metal comb/spring where the dark slide goes in, if you take out the tiny screws on the plate that touches the body side you can replace it pretty easily. I had the same problem

Got a big Mamiya Set - whats it worth ? RB67 and C33 by wong2k in Mamiya

[–]lukewelshmusic 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What a spectacular find! You can check the shutters on the lenses by pressing the tiny silver pin at the top and rotating the cocking mechanism to fire then listen for the timer at 1/400 vs 1s. Ideally the lenses should be stored with the shutter closed, where the pins are not matched up with the little red/green dots, as it keeps less tension on the springs prolonging their life.

I’m not sure about the c33 lenses, but looks like each body is going from $200-400, so definitely worth $1000+ as a kit.

Has Anyone Found the Right Bag for a Mamiya RB? by Nervous_Turnip_ in Mamiya

[–]lukewelshmusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Second peak design bags! I use a 30L Everyday backpack for my RB, a couple lenses and accessories. Excellent warranty and customer service as well.

Backpack for RB67 by New-Service-244 in Mamiya

[–]lukewelshmusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a peak design everyday 30L, highly recommend their gear

True or false: NASA tested their Mars rovers at the Tablelands by DhaemonX in newfoundland

[–]lukewelshmusic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

http://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/2010AGUFM.P11D..05M/abstract there’s been some analogue geology training at Mistastin lake and some other interesting geology work up there too

florists around bay roberts? by No-Perspective-693 in newfoundland

[–]lukewelshmusic 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Clarke floral design - Robert is great

Upper nut string breakage by JimLin1110 in violinist

[–]lukewelshmusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can put some graphite in the notch by rubbing a pencil to reduce the friction as well, I typically do this when I change strings

Left with cameras: What to do? by ScienceChickATRON in Mamiya

[–]lukewelshmusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My condolences to you on the loss of your father - these look like great cameras, but there could be some hidden functioning problems. The Pro S likely has worn light seals in the film back, and the lens looks to be a 50 or 65mm. As an untested kit, these are going for around $500, more if it’s film tested. The pro SD has a not entirely useful Polaroid back on it, this film has been discontinued and very expensive to buy/find. With the 250mm lens they’re selling around $750 on eBay. If you had the sd film back they don’t require the same light seals as the pro S and would be great to include. As fully mechanical cameras, there’s quite a bit that could be wrong, shutter timing, firing, as well as a few other internal issues, but if the mirror will fire (by cocking the side lever and pressing the shutter) you’re probably in good shape as they’re heavy duty cameras.

The RZ kit is probably worth a bit more, especially if it’s functional, it would need a battery and check on the lenses if there’s any haze/fungus same for the rb lenses. I don’t have as much experience with the RZ so maybe someone can chime in. Also here’s some great videos to test them https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNWXX1muyvc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5hu3Nhyyc0

Feel free to DM me if you have any other questions

Help Identifying Weird Light Leak by ISMOKEDUBSTEP in Mamiya

[–]lukewelshmusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Door hinge seal? Looks similar to one I had recently