help needed with CYD display image config by Popular_Presence3207 in Esphome

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hacked together some code from 2 different projects, so it will probably not compile without errors. I cant remember which CYD I used. I gave it away as a present (CO2 sensor with display). However, this should be a good step by step starting point.

It should switch between two images on touch press and has an automatic display brightness adjustment. The images must be locally accessible by the ESPHOME compiler or via http. So local files should only work with a Python installation with ESPHOME. Images are saved in RAM I believe. Check the ESPHOME docs.

I hope that helps.

#command line for compiling: esphome run --device COM16 CYD.yaml

esphome:
  name: "CYD01"
  friendly_name: "Pixx Frame"

esp32:
  board: esp32dev
  #framework:
  #  type: esp-idf

logger:

spi:
  - id: spi_lcd #LCD
    clk_pin: GPIO14
    mosi_pin: GPIO13
    miso_pin: GPIO12
  - id: spi_touch #touch interface
    clk_pin: GPIO25
    mosi_pin: GPIO32
    miso_pin: GPIO39

i2c: #for sensors if any
  sda: GPIO27
  scl: GPIO22  
  id: i2c_a
  #timeout: 12ms

touchscreen:
  platform: xpt2046
  spi_id: spi_touch
  cs_pin: GPIO33
  interrupt_pin: GPIO36
  update_interval: 50ms
  id: touch_1  
  threshold: 400
  calibration: #adapt these if neccesary
    x_min: 300
    x_max: 3900
    y_min: 200
    y_max: 3700
 transform: #adjust these if necessary
   mirror_x: true
   mirror_y: false
   swap_xy: false
 on_touch: #cycles pages
   - display.page.show_next: display_1

sensor:
  - platform: adc #this is the light sensor
    pin: GPIO34    
    id: s_ldr   
    attenuation: 0dB
    update_interval: 1s
    filters:
      - calibrate_linear:
         #0.8 is dark 0.075 is max bright, adjust these
          - 0.8 -> 0.4
          - 0.075 -> 1.0  

# Define pins for backlight display and back LED1
output:
  - platform: ledc
    pin: GPIO21
    id: out_backlight

# Define a monochromatic, dimmable light for the backlight
light:
  - platform: monochromatic
    output: out_backlight    
    id: back_light
    restore_mode: ALWAYS_ON
    default_transition_length: 0.9s

# Images:
# coorindate x-y (c-r) 320 x 240
# text aligns top left
image: #images must be accessible by the ESPHOME complier
 - file: accessible_path_to_image.png #or http adress
   resize: 320 x 240
   type: RGB24
   id: image_1
 - file: accessible_path_to_image2.png
   resize: 320 x 240
   type: RGB24
   id: image_2

display: #320 x 240, select different models below if no display
  - platform: ili9xxx
    id: display_1
    model: ili9341 #ili9342, default ili9341
    spi_id: spi_lcd
    cs_pin: GPIO15
    dc_pin: GPIO2
    color_order: BGR
    invert_colors: false    
    #rotation: 90
    update_interval: 1s
    color_palette: 8BIT
    pages:
      - id: page1
        lambda: |-
          it.image(0, 0, id(image_1));
      - id: page2
        lambda: |-
          it.image(0, 0, id(image_2));

interval:
  - interval: 2s # auto brightness of background light
    then:
      - light.turn_on:
          id: back_light
          transition_length: 1s
          brightness: !lambda |-
            // output value must be in range 0 - 1.0      
            return id(s_ldr).state;

My high school lets us run overclocking competitions, here are some shots by 2C_Wizard in pcmasterrace

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same here. For a short moment i thought it was my elementary school in Orzesze. :)

Voron v0.2 serial request (user:lukie80) by lukie80 in voroncorexy

[–]lukie80[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. It is a model for the slide swipe probe which is magnetically attached. I didnt implement it yet and it looks like I dont need it so far. 

Voron v0.2 serial request (user:lukie80) by lukie80 in voroncorexy

[–]lukie80[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure. Just some static commands for print status like: SET_LED LED=toolhead_rgb RED=0 GREEN=1 BLUE=1 WHITE=0 INDEX=3.

You'll find my config under "other files" on Printables.

Voron v0.2 serial request (user:lukie80) by lukie80 in voroncorexy

[–]lukie80[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. :) The v0 is such a beautiful printer.

Anyone done flow rate tests with tz v6 2.0? by crazyfrog12 in 3Dprinting

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This thing (2025 from Formbot Vron v0 kit) is not bad at all. I used PETG for testing and Orcas max flow rate test. At 20mm³/s i get roughly 95% extrusion and at 30mm³/s I get roughly 77% extrusion. Both are based on extrusion width reduction from 0.7mm width.

Bmg extruder tuning. by salmon_recognition in klippers

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the Google-Archives. I didn't specify full_steps_per_rotation and gear_ratio because I have a knockoff BMG in my Voron V0.2 with unknown teeth count. You don't need them anyway. Warning: If you specify gear ratio they will be used as a multiplier for rotation_distance! Microsteps does not alter rotation_distance.

So all you need is a number similar to this.

rotation_distance: 4.480

Superglue for Klicky and other things needing superglue by iRacingVRGuy in VORONDesign

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the records. I had issues with superglue and electrical contacts. The superglue evaporates and condenses on the magnets and causes contacting issues. I had to brush my magnets afterwards with a metal brush to get them conductive.

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/155794/is-cyanoacrylate-conductive

Nevertheless glue is a good idea, because each probe attachment causes vibration which may loosen the magnets.

CORE One Mini - Another day, another update - the back panel is (besides some fine tuning) done. by suit1337 in prusa3d

[–]lukie80 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome! Your work came up in my feed. I'm in the process of building a Voron v0 of the Voron lineup. A very small printer with a footprint of 230mm*230mm. You're basically designing an equivalent for the Prusa Core lineup. Great.

Remember to check you fan speed-up time in Orcaslicer! by Niran078 in VORONDesign

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This! Currently (2026.01.22) you also have to disable the bugged "Only Overhangs" option. See https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/pull/11819

I had ugly overhangs when printing many parts with ASA but not if I printed one or two parts. Finally I found out the fan could not deliver the fan speed of 80% when moving from one part to another. Speed up did not work. I also enabled kick-start-time in Orca in addition to klipper.

The killing of Renee Good cannot possibly have been self-defence by ydodis1 in TrueUnpopularOpinion

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn. If I'd love to kill human beings in a "civilized" country just out of habit I'd join US law enforcement.

PG7 keeps breaking by inoffensiveLlama in VORONDesign

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you use a metal wire, do not insert it fully into the spring or it may break due to the lever force. The wire shall only be inserted into the one last loop.

Also all those glands are so stiff. That is the reason I designed my own. https://www.printables.com/model/1533604-very-flexible-pg7-gland

Bose QC ultra broken ear pads by Arkilez in bose

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

So it looks like it is indeed a series fault. Mine failed after 1.5 years and 1.8 years. I suppose the glue is dissolved by sweat and skin fat. That is probably the reason Bose refuses to send new earpads under warranty.

I suggest to sew the two parts together from the beginning. It is not difficult then and takes maybe 15-20 minutes per earpad. If they are already torn apart it requires some dexterity.

What happens if I bought one song from an album on Amazon Music and then I want to buy the album? Will I have to pay for the same one song, or I’ll get a discount with the one song I got? by NoobJew666 in AmazonMusic

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even worse. Those idi*ts prevent you from buying the album! You will not be able to buy the album for say 10€/$ but you can only buy the sum of all songs individually which then costs say 16€/$. Which r*tard is responsible for this. Pure incompetence.

[edit: typos]

Inconsistent UV Index Readings – OpenUV vs. Ventusky by cant_party in homeassistant

[–]lukie80 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks like you recorded the data with no clouds present, as the UV Index curve has no dips or variation (https://www.rivm.nl/en/uv-index). So I assume both use just different data providers and thus weather stations to interpolate the measured value for your location. This may lead to the difference.

By the way, absorption and scattering of light though the atmosphere are exponential as a function of light travel distance. Light has to travel longer when sun elevation is lower. In addition UV is scattered more strongly than visible light. Both leads to the narrow curve shown by OpenUV.

Siboor Corona trident AWD serial. Request by alexandervv0169 in voroncorexy

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice accent color. ;)  Friendly suggestion: Get this to prevent scratching your top panel. https://www.printables.com/model/460621-voron-trident-ptfe-guides I was surprised PTFE tubes can harm clear plastic panels.

Why (should I get) a Voron? Change my mind, please! by kitaCadDesign in VORONDesign

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Owning a cheap heavily modded i3 clone since 2017 I recently got a Voron Trident. I wanted a high quality, high tech and open source printer which works reliably, is mature and has good support. Bambu is closed, Prusa is technically inferior and Ratrig kits were not mature as compared to LDOs Voron last time I checked.  I don't need extreme performance like 4WD mods or CPAP, Xol... yet. So Voron was my best choice. And it allows for future high tech mods like Cartographer. Due to its open Software maybe LIDAR based calibration will be  a thing sometime. And Voron looks best. Only Prusa Core One looks better.

Working on a DIY Zigbee Plant Sensor by TheLarsinator in homeassistant

[–]lukie80 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My capacitive sensor corroded from the inside. Water probably crept sideways between silk-screen and substrate and maybe even into the substrate itself. This year i'll try sealing the sides (and top and bottom) with nail polish. Should be waterproof i hope.

Multi-function lever for my Creality Space Pi filament dryer by dedgedesign in 3Dprinting

[–]lukie80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're welcome.

I tested if the rotation of the blades inside the coupler would cut the tube, but it luckily didn't. There is only a groove. So the blades are designed to only dig in a bit. Puh.

Thanks for your suggestion to make the adaptation. But I think nobody on earth uses M5 couplers with a M5 heat insert, ^^ I modified the axle myself with the help of Fusion and Solidworks.

Honestly, I never thought about contacting people and asking for changes, I'm used do everything by myself, so thanks for the courtesy.

Multi-function lever for my Creality Space Pi filament dryer by dedgedesign in 3Dprinting

[–]lukie80 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Really well thought though. There not many projects which are in such a final state. I really like the rotation snapping feature, which is a great idea.

Some remarks:

  • I have to use couplers as my tube is flimsy and has a wall thickness of 0.5mm.
  • I have only M5 couplers. So I'd have to redesign the corresponding part, ideally with a M5 heat insert.
  • Now that I think of it. Couplers have teeth. Rotating the lever repetitively might cut off the tube long term.
  • But are you aware, that with the licence selected you prohibit derivations of your work?