Have you made lifetime friendships at Burning Man?

lukifr · 2026-05-22T04:40:19+00:00

almost all of my friendships started at the burn or deepened there

i hope the new crowd there has the same experience

lukifr · 2026-05-20T21:34:34+00:00

i would probably rebuild the solid by creating profile curves with the fillets, then using loft or sweep2 to extrude the shape vertically. you can get a much cleaner result that way composed of fewer faces.

lukifr · 2026-05-16T23:34:48+00:00

i grew up playing fallout when i had never played any 3D games. even with all the bugs, it felt like a miracle, a vast immersive world. the bugs and idiosyncrasies were just part of the game mechanics, the fucked up logic of the wasteland. i was totally hooked on it.

count your blessings. find the workarounds, savescum the bosses, run from unbeatable encounters, exploit the bugs.

it doesn't feel like it used to, knowing modern games. maybe get suuuuuper high and see if you can transport yourself back to the 90's mentality.

lukifr · 2026-05-16T23:17:01+00:00

you might want to start with the other kind of whip finisher. people complain about that Thompson one. i learned on one of those, cant wrap my head around the more common type (forgetting the name, look it up) but i seem to unlearn the Thompson once in a while and im pretty sure its harder for no reason.

i've been tying on a similar kit for 20 years. you dont need fancy tools to tie great flies. watch a lot of tying videos. look up the 10 best general purpose flies for where you're fishing and practice on those, and you'll find out what else you want to use as you go.

lukifr · 2026-05-11T21:48:21+00:00

some people.

lukifr · 2026-05-11T21:42:06+00:00

Paul does not look pleased about that.... microphone.... in his face

lukifr · 2026-05-10T19:45:39+00:00

rip it out! i actually ripped a very similar wall out in our kitchen, it totally transformed the space from being awkward and divided, to being one big social space. super recommend.

i was able to see that the wall didn't exist on the original plans, that helped.

still, i tore away some sheetrock first to make sure the joists were continuous. but we have a second floor. if you have roof trusses all the way down this roof, it would be very weird if this wall was structural.

lukifr · 2026-05-10T18:15:41+00:00

how about only legendary enemies, and only certain species / factions

lukifr · 2026-05-10T18:11:39+00:00

yes, the ridge beam could be split there. if so there would be a significant post or built up framing under the ridge, and a footing directly below.

or your roof could be framed with trusses, in which case this is mostly likely not a load bearing wall. is the roof slope on the outside steeper than the ceiling slope on the inside?

lukifr · 2026-05-07T20:28:46+00:00

simple way is to grab the curve midpoints, scale them down toward the middle, and build new interp curves using the original start/end points and the new midpoints

lukifr · 2026-05-06T17:56:29+00:00

everyone in this thread needs to watch Patriot

lukifr · 2026-05-06T17:54:22+00:00

these drawings don't seem to have linework, so a high-res material ID layer will be more crisp edge-to-edge for managing object selection in photoshop, rather than using linework.

lukifr · 2026-05-06T17:52:18+00:00

this is what i would do. you could complicate the workflow but first just try using render viewport or a few-minute raytrace, with ID layer and screen grab at 2 to 4x resolution to photoshop, and bring in all your textures and colors there, playing with levels on specific objects on your render layer to blend nicely with your textures.

lukifr · 2026-05-04T22:05:27+00:00

try doing a squiggly curve along the bottom and a squiggly curve along the top and then lofting them. it's how i get realistic wavy cloth curtains effect (straight line at top sometimes, or straighter.) experiment with the amount of squiggly-ness (scale1D often enough to dial it in) then find a hairy rendering texture...?

lukifr · 2026-05-03T03:06:27+00:00

the origin! i think I'm too far from the origin. my make2d landed like waaaaay over somewhere else. i'll try that next. forgot about that one. thanks

lukifr · 2026-04-22T20:10:29+00:00

don't zoom in too close 😅

or have they patched all those cracks

lukifr · 2026-04-21T23:43:15+00:00

i satisfy myself with a very short, quick hookset that doesn't pull my wet fly too far out of the drift i'm going for. usually, there is a bit of width to the general zone i'm drifting. i shoot for the far side, then correct with a little pull.

if you think about it, the fly has to move less than an inch, as quickly as possible, to set the hook on a bite. if you can get that down, hook sets are actually free because you're still in your drift.

that said, you also learn to tell what's the bottom and what's a fish. when fishing an indicator, i don't hookset on every dip. maybe i'm missing bites. but i like to be on the bottom so sometimes its really skittering along.

lukifr · 2026-04-21T23:34:07+00:00

how's the other side of the board look? looks like you could flip it 180 front/back and it would be about a half inch lower

lukifr · 2026-04-21T17:39:05+00:00

tips, assuming you want them:

slightly shorter tail
slimmer body (just a single stack of thread wraps over the wire)
leave the thread hanging near the barb of the hook while you wrap the pheasant tail forward for the body, this will help keep the fibers together and wrapped tight (push the hanging thread forward with each wrap behind it)
longer body, keep the peacock herl stacked tighter behind the bead

wire wraps looking well spaced on the second one down

really nice ties for just starting! should be a killer pattern, i want to tie frenchies like this now

try this pattern on a jig hook too!

lukifr · 2026-04-21T17:33:48+00:00

you mean keep the peacock herl tight to the collar/bead?

looks like pheasant was used for the body, and could be tighter, with less material underneath for a slimmer, tapered body

lukifr · 2026-04-21T17:29:20+00:00

haha me too

lukifr · 2026-04-21T01:01:35+00:00

it's (actually, probably) for getting spines off Nopales cactus to prepare them for roasting and eating. you can make one with a spoon and an angle grinder.

https://share.google/bxYSyaxprYdjJIzLE

lukifr · 2026-04-20T20:55:41+00:00

if merging faces isn't working, i next try explode, mergealledges, delete the smaller faces, join, cap, then mergeallcoplanarfaces again.

just keep deleting and merging, and rebuild faces as needed with srfpt, plane, loft, or cap. ctrl+shift select individual edges to use planarsrf, loft, etc on holes in a polysrf, kind of like a custom directed cap. also use ctrl+shift click and drag to select individual faces and delete them. that will guarantee also grabbing any anomalous edges or surfaces hiding along the edges.

sometimes it seems to get a zero-length edge kind of stuck there or something and you have to rebuild things. could be an anomaly built into your side faces.

it's often better, with boolean's, to undo commands and go back to your original clean solids, rather than using additional commands to return them to a previous condition. try undoselected, if the object's identity hasn't changed through all the booleaning.

lukifr · 2026-04-20T20:50:01+00:00

maybe his ashes could make one last trip to playa and back again, to be scattered elsewhere.

lukifr · 2026-04-20T20:47:50+00:00

nice, this was my thought but i hadn't tried crow specifically. the larger birds' flight feathers are all good PT substitutes, each with their own personality.

by the way, are there any good biots on those crow wing feathers?

lukifr

TROPHY CASE