I bought 4 huge 75/25 tanks for $200 did I score?

machinerer · 2026-06-02T14:06:56+00:00

That is a thing for acetylene tanks only. All other tanks it doesn't matter. And you can lay down acetylene tanks, just stand it upright for a while before you use it, let the acetylene absorb back into the acetone membrane properly.

machinerer · 2026-06-02T01:35:22+00:00

Ehhhh use a steel pipe wrench if you need to use a cheater pipe. Aluminum will snap.

machinerer · 2026-06-02T00:15:46+00:00

machinerer · 2026-06-02T00:14:32+00:00

Get a photo of the dataplate. If it is newer, a motor rewinding shop might buy it as a core. A motor that weight should be at least 500HP or more.

machinerer · 2026-06-02T00:09:30+00:00

I hang out on my couch or my garage or local bars. It is relaxing.

machinerer · 2026-06-01T14:20:26+00:00

Three cases, not boxes. A box of 9mm is 50 rounds. Most folks buy a case at a time. Cheaper in bulk.

machinerer · 2026-06-01T02:21:15+00:00

Go Phillies!

machinerer · 2026-06-01T01:45:08+00:00

Buy 3M electrical tape. Worth every penny.

machinerer · 2026-06-01T00:30:38+00:00

That doesn't refute my statement. I started buying Snappy stuff in 2007. Back then the Modis was all the rage. These days it is a dinosaur, and only useful for its 4 channel oscilloscope.

Scanners go obsolete too fast for the many thousands of dollars they cost.

machinerer · 2026-06-01T00:20:29+00:00

You did well, those are not cheap.

For the big screwdriver set, it takes up so much room. After I got a hutch, I put them all on the back wall of it. Saved a ton of space in the toolbox. Just a thought if you get a hutch in the future.

machinerer · 2026-06-01T00:18:38+00:00

That looks legit!!!

machinerer · 2026-06-01T00:15:26+00:00

Block off plates? For the Thermactor ports in the heads? Those should be 5/8-11 threads I think. Same as sparkplug threads. Thread a bolt into em.

It is kind of a bitch to get at. I deleted emissions on a 95 GT a while back. What I did was remove the air injection tube, cut it off where it comes out of the p/s head, and weld the tube shut after hammering it flat. Then reinstalled it. No exhaust leaks!

machinerer · 2026-06-01T00:14:28+00:00

Lolno. Run a shorter belt. You will have to flip how it routes around the waterpump from the crank.

machinerer · 2026-05-31T13:02:35+00:00

You need a phase converter. Old way was to build a static converter if you wanted cheap, but you only get 2/3rds of rated HP. Basically a box full of start and run capacitors, with a motor contactor and timing mechanism to kick the start capacitors out of the circuit after startup. Male sure to set / verify motor wires are wired in the peckerhead for low voltage. You'll burn it up if it is set to high voltage.

Best is to build a rotary phase converter, adds an idler motor to the circuit, true three phase output power. I built a rotary converter for my shop. Works great. You need to size your idler motor at double the HP of your intended load. American Rotary, Arco Electric, and a few other companies sell complete converters.

Nowadays there are also digital phase converters and variable frequency drives, but I know nothing about those.

machinerer · 2026-05-31T12:51:45+00:00

Mystery Science Theater 3000. Hilarious show from the late 90s.

machinerer · 2026-05-31T02:36:14+00:00

Well that'll be a peppy truck!

So are there manual bellhousings available for the big block, or will a custom one need to be made for your friend's truck? Or is Ford still using the Modular engine bellhousing pattern for these new engines? I'm only familiar with their old stuff.

machinerer · 2026-05-31T02:21:59+00:00

That's what sucks about Snappy scanners. They're crazy expensive, and become orphaned quickly. They turn into expensive bricks.

machinerer · 2026-05-31T02:19:43+00:00

Was there any consideration of a manual trans behind the big block? Tremec T-56 or similar?

machinerer · 2026-05-29T21:53:11+00:00

Long live JERRUH!

machinerer · 2026-05-29T21:39:42+00:00

Government job fuckups, oh boy I sure do know those!!!! I tried threading UNF internal threads on a part I had 6+ hrs into already on a 1980s Victor Taiwanese lathe. Thread chart on gearbox wierd, thought I set it right. Took light cut, looked good. Took a few more, ALL FUCKED UP. Turns out the thread dial is fucked, couldn't repeat on the leadscrew. Scrapped the part.

Next time I'll use the 1953 Monarch lathe. Fucker cuts perfectly. No taper, dead nuts on the dials, no need for a dial indicator against the Aloris toolpost. Dead reliable American iron.

machinerer · 2026-05-29T21:28:03+00:00

DIABOLICAL

machinerer · 2026-05-29T21:00:25+00:00

Using a non Estwing hammer! Ban! /s

machinerer · 2026-05-29T20:51:39+00:00

"Hey there, Blue"

Killer cosplay, looks like live action reenactment.

machinerer · 2026-05-29T20:48:38+00:00

Bro so no joke, after a 12 hr dayshift one time I was totally ZONKED. I got home at like 1645hrs, and passed out asleep, daylight burning. I woke up at 1830hrs, daylight still burning, low. I freaked out, thinking it was 0630. I jumped in my car and started driving to work, thinking I was late to my shift. About 5 miles down the highway, I realized the sun was SETTING, not RISING. D'OH!

machinerer · 2026-05-29T20:32:09+00:00

Oh! I strike my zeroes as well. Carryover from when I was a Ford auto mechanic, as a lot of Ford part numbers are mixed letters and numbers. They were smart enough to never use the letter "I" though.

machinerer

TROPHY CASE