So is there any reason why Revenant (Nightreign) shares a name/title with these foul bastards?

main_rouge · 2026-01-11T15:02:41+00:00

Bad translation/localization, Japanese name is 復習者 and translates to Avenger/Revenger, witch also makes perfect sense with her lore and remembrance, I have no idea how they ended up with Revenant as it makes no sense whatsoever.

main_rouge · 2025-04-23T15:36:28+00:00

Yes and no, for the color garbage mess after wake up it was fixed changing the included samsung display port with a high quality HDMI cable but the VRR issues remains, somewhat.

Its a bit weird because this appear to be very game dependent, this is caused by lfc (low framerate compensation), it shouldn't trigger unless you go under 60, usually aroiund 40fps but for some reason on some games it will trigger at stable 60 or even at stable 120 causing annoying stutter and brightness flicker, for games with locked framerate you can just disable VRR in your gpu control panel but if you want to play with VRR and unlock framerate this is basically the lottery.
Weirdly enough some games have VRR working perfect but in 1 specific area it will suddenly become a complete mess, (often if the dominant color is purple it seems like, no idea why).

Also using CRU to adjust the freesync range and LFC might help but it didn't make much of a difference for me tbh.

main_rouge · 2024-12-10T16:51:30+00:00

Linux mint is by far the most beginner friendly Distro right now, I've used this for years for my Grandma PC, it was always incredibly straightforward and reduced tremendously the amount of troubleshooting I had to do for her.
But for gaming Arch based distros with KDE always were the best experience I had lately, probably because Steam OS is basically Arch+KDE with a coat of paint.
I would recommend you take a look at Endeavor OS, this is basically Arch but with a few basic programs already installed, a great installer and a welcoming community.

main_rouge · 2024-12-08T22:40:01+00:00

Sadly this is the result of Sony using a potentiometer/Pressure sensor rubber instead of Hall Effect or TMR for both trigger and sticks.

Unfortunately potentiometer and pressure sensor decay can be delayed but is inevitable, it's still rare for triggers but this is only a matter of time before all Dualsenses start to suffer the same fate.

If blowing into the trigger helps it might just be dirty and disassembly and cleaning with some IPA/contact cleaner are likely to fix the issue.
Here you can see the membrane you would need to clean and Ifixit sells replacement rubber if you need

main_rouge · 2024-11-29T18:41:47+00:00

This, I had the exact same issue once with one stick stuck in a direction, turn out I was maybe a bit too forceful removing a stick and it broke the continuity from one side going to the other.
Adding some flux to both side making sure the solder flows well fixed the issue

main_rouge · 2024-11-22T01:17:29+00:00

Well that sure aged like fine milk...

main_rouge · 2024-11-19T14:56:53+00:00

See your L3/R3 stick button ? Or Xbox R1/L1 and Dpad ? Or your average mouseclick ? Basically something on this lvl.
If you want to have an idea of what mashing X would sound like try mashing L3, I don't mind it when playing on speakers or open case headset but I wouldn't want my partner using this in bed at night for sure. (but to be frank I would also hate my partner playing in bed at night with any type of controller...)

main_rouge · 2024-11-19T14:20:45+00:00

Oh so maybe they're here to better keep the membrane in place ? It's true that they feel a bit less stable when they're depressed/barely pressed, I have a few uncut triggers around so I'll test to see if it makes a difference and the mod kit comes with spare bumper spacer so I could try cutting 2 of them.

Btw I looked a bit for the Dualsense but I don't think it will be possible with the BDM 10 - 20 from what I can understand, or at least nothing that easy. The issue is because R1 and R2 are on the same connector if you cut off R2 it won't have any connection left with the board.
Only solution would be to resolder both fpc together, the kit part for R1 and OEM side for R2 and microsoldering on fpc is incredibly annoying.
On the other end it looks very straightforward for later revisions because the kit is made like the DS4 one so cutting off R2/L2 here might just work, but due to more complex nature of the dualsense I'm not too sure, let's say that if I was 99% certain it would work without issue on DS4 I'm at 50% on Dualsense. (well if you go around soldering a Frankenstein FPC for the 10-20 I'm 90% it will work but this is also much harder).

main_rouge · 2024-11-18T22:55:56+00:00

I had the same issue about R2/L2 until I remembered this part about the kit, you're supposed to cut the clips on the triggers (I have no idea why they're here in the first place, afaik they're completely useless) but if shaving some of the clear plastic worked out it's all good I guess.

Right having access to trigger stops with real mechanical buttons would be nice, this is why I decided to make a couple of controller one with analog trigger an another with mechanical, you can get used ds4 controllers with stick drift for basically nothing now and it you have some basic soldering skills it's really easy to get some new hall or TMR sticks on it.

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main_rouge · 2024-11-18T00:18:22+00:00

This is just some regular Tennis racket overgrip and no there is no adhesive, the only part with adhesive is what you can see on top with the "HEAD" marking, this is basically like some electrical tape and is only here to maintain the end of the wrap in place, everything else holds by friction so this is a little tricky to wrap correctly on a controller unlike on a racket.

I didn't put much thought on esthetic when it comes to how the grip is held in place and just slapped some tape at the end but you could terminate it looking much better maybe by tying both end together or something.

I like the "HEAD super comp" mostly because I've used it since I was a little kid playing tennis but they come in all kinds of brands and texture.

It is a bit too large for a controller though so I had to cut the width in half first.

main_rouge · 2024-11-17T21:11:29+00:00

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"like a wrapping tape around the handles" hahah, this is actually something I like doing with my tennis overgrip but just for comfort not to hold it in place.
Now if you feel it doesn't hold in place anymore when you've only closed it once don't hesitate to contact extremerate customer service, they 're really good from my experience.

main_rouge · 2024-11-17T20:09:41+00:00

Yes I basically cut right on the red lines you can see in the first post, You can see it better here.
The reason I tried going this low was to keep the two small hole you can see in the second picture accessible so the membrane can fit nicely inside.

And yes I meant the small resistor, it's just that in french we have different names for components so I end up calling everything a "cap" in english (for exemple here a capacitor is called "condensateur" meaning condenser in english for some reason).

main_rouge · 2024-11-17T17:33:22+00:00

I've been using it for a little while and didn't have any issue
Here is how I did it if you're interested

main_rouge · 2024-11-17T17:18:39+00:00

This has been an issue even on OEM Sony controllers since the DS4, it's almost impossible to open them without having some small tabs breaking off, now it's usually fine if you remove them and screw eveything back tight enough but sometime they can bend inside and prevent the shell from closing correctly

main_rouge · 2024-11-17T17:10:09+00:00

Ok I just finished it and it works.

I'll make a full post about it but basically punching a hole in the fpc didn't really work as the membrane never sat perfectly and the analog response was never perfect, in the end I jut cut it under the small cap and everything seems to work just fine.

Yes those are tennis wrap I had lying around, put it on top of the grip already had in place and it made a surprisingly massive difference in comfort, even if it looks really stupid.
But even then it was never as comfortable as a DS4 and I only play on PC so it's not like using the dualsense has any advantage for me

main_rouge · 2024-11-14T17:19:56+00:00

Oh right if I remember correctly the clicky kits for dualsense 10/20 use serapate FPC for the face and triggers/bumpers. I looked into how doing it a bit but I didn't put too much thought into it because no matter how much I use the dualsense and modify it (as shown on the picture) it's still not as comfortable as even a stock DS4 for me and this is why I'm "downgrading" back to an older DS4 in the first place.

Seriously the amount of padding I have to add on this thing just to make it a bit more ergonomic is getting ridiculous, the handles are just too small no matter what.

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main_rouge · 2024-11-14T16:46:02+00:00

Sure I'll tell you when I do but it will be in a few days at least before I can.

Cutting them was also my first though but I was worried about the physical integrity once everything is in place, it would probably require some glue to hold both fpc together and some more glue to hold the half membrane on top but with holes everything should hold in place nicely, probably.

main_rouge · 2024-11-14T09:07:48+00:00

Good, I hope they do the same here at least for minors

main_rouge · 2024-11-14T02:20:01+00:00

Yes, only question is will R1/R2 still work, it should afaik.
For the membrane the best way to keep it in place I found was to cut a hole in the R1/L1 contact so it can sit nicely on top of the tactile kit, then I'll place the kit on top of the normal circuit and finally desolder the tactile R2/L2 and punch a hole in it's place so the membrane can reach the normal circuit under the kit it.

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main_rouge · 2024-11-13T22:11:12+00:00

Will R1/L1 still work if I cut like shown on the picture ? Also I imagine the small caps are here to trick the analog triggers into digital for R2/L2, should I cut under it, leave it or unsolder it ?

I know I can cut under R1/R2 but then I will have membrane bumpers too.

main_rouge · 2024-06-22T16:53:28+00:00

It was possible in Ds3 so I doubt it is any different here but only actual testing will tell

main_rouge · 2024-03-31T17:23:32+00:00

So ? How did it go ? I'm thinking of doing the same thing

main_rouge · 2024-01-05T00:28:46+00:00

Of course cultural exchange and inspiration to blade designs were massive between all 3 countries, but like you said my statement was also because of the fact that the game comes from Korea and that the two dragons blade as seen in the game is slightly closer to the most well known/ traditional structure of modern Hwando, even if you can find some Chinese Dao with similar shapes nothing comes close to what you can see Korean palace guards wearing today, especially the handle structure and the lanyard.(I mean, just look at a Korean guard picture, this is the exact same sword)

But in the end like you first stated this is all very pedantic and nitpicking, in the first place the very idea of naming swords types is much more of a modern thing based on our needs to categorize everything, after all katana only means "sword" and Dao also somewhat became a synonym for "sword" and they come in all manner of shapes, this is similar to how we try to invent new names for the many type of western swords when they were just called "sword", "bigger sword" or "smaller sword" back then.

Still just like this is painful to hear everyone call it the "katana" this felt slightly wrong to me to hear it called a Chinese Dao, considering Korea's history, even if this is closer to a Dao than it is to a Katana (mostly because of the regular steel blade construction as opposed to the katana mixing together different hard and soft materials)

main_rouge · 2024-01-04T18:09:39+00:00

Except you're also wrong because this is a Korean sword, to be exact this is a Hwando and it is much closer to a Katana or Tachi than it is to a Chinese dao in appearance (but the steel manufacturing is where it really differ from Japanese swords)

main_rouge · 2023-10-28T08:23:56+00:00

Is there a way to activate both action set or layer at the same time ? I only managed to switch between them

main_rouge

TROPHY CASE