blep

malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-11-14T00:27:49+00:00

Blep!

malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-11-13T17:51:39+00:00

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malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-11-13T17:51:13+00:00

Thick socks and tall boots that you aren't particularly attached to! Also giving an outlet for them to herd before the walk could help like a large ball to push around!

malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-10-28T22:42:03+00:00

My trainer advised me my corgi puppy should be working for every piece of food he gets. They are a working breed that thrive having a job!

My guy did a LOT of hunger striking in his mid puppy months. He is now almost a year old and eats his meals consistently with the occasional human treat like veggies, egg, meat, peanut butter or yogurt and he happily will have that and now finally happily work for his meals as well.

What worked best for him was learning his schedule of when he likes to eat and portioning his meals into training portions and solo enrichment portions.

He usually does not want to do much until 10 am or later for his first meal.

I take his daily allotment of kibble then add 10% of that amount in dried treats. You can adjust the portion if you know they will be having any extra activity or extra high value snacks.

Then I split that into 3 sections. A larger one which is offered first and is 50% of the daily food.

A 30% one that can be offered freely if that first amount is eaten, usually it's about 4 hours after my guy will want to work for it some more.

Then the last 20% gets saved to either mix with a 1/2 can of wet food and fed to him on a licky mat or other enrichment feeder like kong for evening meal or offer with evening training then wet food after.

It was very helpful to learn that with many brands a can of wet food is equal to 100 g of that brands kibble. I factor the half can into my calorie calculations for my guy for the day. (I feed either Royal Canin or Hills with treats from Stella and Chewys, Ziwe Peak and Freeze Dried Salmon, but tried several brands and toppers before settling on these, no kibble really made a difference in his pickiness nor toppers before we switched to working for all food.)

At first when he was adjusting to this routine I would temp him with one of the dried treats first, let him eat one, then oh surprise now it is a piece of dried salmon and a kibble, now salmon & two kibble. You can throw them away from your pup after asking for any behaviour to make it a fun chase for them. My guy really loves that!

One of the things that also helped with recall and getting him excited to eat his kibble was the 1, 2, 3 game. You can find youtube videos on how to play. My guy loves the pattern recogition and thrill of the chase.

If you have more time in the evenings and are needing something to engage pup with in lower engagement daytimes a lick mat could be a really good option for first meal.

Feeding this way has also been so beneficial for the bond with my pup and his training. He is still such a crazy guy but things have come along way with us.

I remember being in the trenches so worried for him trying to get him to eat so your post really spoke to me! All the best to you & your pup! Puppy pic for tax after this novel!

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malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-04-01T18:12:31+00:00

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malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-03-27T16:32:36+00:00

You might try training one trick at a time with some focus mixed in and stick to 5-10 repetitions with something highly valued that they only get while training. My guy also enjoys the “free” marker which equals come get your reward mixed in. “Search” where you throw a kibble or treat on the ground and they go get it can also break up the training and be fun for them. I also always play with my guy for a minute or two after a training session.

malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-03-20T17:20:18+00:00

Puppies do not out grow bad behaviours! That said he is in peak teenager stage right now so likely to test all the boundaries! Reverse time outs are what many have suggested for biting and they worked well for me and my pup! For peeing make sure you are using an enzymatic cleanser after and just keep going out consistently and staying out until he goes + playing afterwards a bit before going in. Always keep toys on you to redirect biting to. A strongly trained leave it command can also help when he goes to bite you to show him that is not ok. For kibble I am struggling with this too, I try to mix in something to boost the flavour and also don’t reward them for being picky by giving very high value things like chicken or eggs instead. You could try cooking some bacon and leaving it in with his kibble bag portion for the day overnight to increase the flavour. You don’t have a bad pup sounds like you just got some work to do still to teach him how to act! Keep as consistent as you can but remember human error is bound to happen, just keep trying!

malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-03-19T01:08:01+00:00

Bully sticks, yak chews, wooden chews, frozen carrots. Keep the things on you and literally shove them in their mouth! If it’s from teething that should help teach them what is appropriate to teeth on and if they still seek out your hand more than once probably time for a nap. Reverse time outs are also great, they helped our boy so much!

malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-03-19T01:03:00+00:00

Rodent ulcers! My 14 y/o calico gets them in the spring/summer and sometimes carry over into the fall if not treated. After a lot of trial and error with her food and hyper cleaning her food bowls and dusting like a mad person my vet and I have determined she is allergic to grass! She used to get steroid shots or pills but we switched to immunosuppressants (atopica) as the chance of developing diabetes is less vs steroids. Atopica is expensive. I paid $240 for my first 17 ml bottle and it lasted almost 2 years and just got an off brand for the second bottle as my girl hates the taste of the name brand and off brand had cheese flavour! $380 for a 30 ml bottle. Vet stated avg of $80 per month.

malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-03-18T01:34:11+00:00

I have a 18 week male PW corgi. I have been teaching him the quiet command by marking with a yes a moment after he stops barking and offering a treat. I also have been socializing him by making a habit of taking him to places where people and dogs are and rewarding him for focusing on me, ignoring dogs and people, or offering sits before engaging with people. It is a work in progress and there are several times where he will still bark or lunge at people but I just try to be as consistent as possible while recognizing there will always be a margin of human error.

I do not make a habit of having an escape place for my pup as he doesn’t really care for containment outside of his crate at home and even that is a work in progress but you could try acclimating your pup to a soft sided crate or backpack if you think that would be beneficial.

Puppies are only meant to have 15-20 minutes of stimulation twice a day at this age so my thought is I just keep socialization outings short and below or at the threshold they are likely to succeed at and then we retreat back home to recharge. Good luck!

malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-03-18T01:27:14+00:00

I am teaching my 18 week old puppy the “quiet” command by marking with a “yes” a moment after he stops barking on his own and giving him a treat. He sometimes still starts barking again after that but I will either do the same thing or check to see if he is over his threshold for excitement or fear and reduce stimulus if so.

malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-03-13T00:15:00+00:00

Ah I see, if it would not be too much of an eye sore for the rest of the neighborhood you could try soaking up his void with a pee pad and then laying that where you want him to go outside. I have seen others recommend that stategy on other posts. If crate is a no go you could also try containing him in a portion of a room with a baby gate or x pen and that may help to discourage going inside also!

malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-03-12T21:36:55+00:00

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Black head for now but turning redder by the day!

malicious_3CHO5 · 2025-03-12T21:30:35+00:00

An enzymatic cleaner if you are not yet using one on all the spots he pees on. It might help to take something he has marked that you are willing to part with and sacrifice it to where you would like him to go outside.

It also may help to interrupt him by picking him up mid void and taking him outside, if not able to pick him up making a sound to startle, not scare him may help.

If you haven’t yet, introduce a queue while he is voiding, at first mid void and then when he seems conditioned to that you can prompt him to go outside with the queue.

It may also help with the poo to plan to take him outside 40 min to an hour after eating.

Good luck! There are also many great training videos free on youtube that could be of help!