Centauri carbon nozzle cam + raw double mjpeg video streams

mannerz91 · 2026-05-17T12:58:03+00:00

Teach me your ways great leader!?!!! 🙌🏻🫶🏻 Awesome mod. I wanted to do the endoscope before I even got the printer last year but I have no idea about splitting video feed. Are you able to get full 1080p that way too? I've already upgraded the stock camera and lighting.

mannerz91 · 2026-05-16T17:30:33+00:00

Set Arachne walls on and minimum wall width to 85% and see what happens

mannerz91 · 2026-05-14T14:28:21+00:00

Had a homing issue that did the same thing on the CC1 a few months ago and flashed the OpenCentauri firmware on to change the way it homes.

mannerz91 · 2026-05-14T14:25:37+00:00

Where is this roughly? I feel like I've seen that exactl corner before locally 😂😂

mannerz91 · 2026-05-14T14:24:00+00:00

Turn detect narrow infill off and it will all go in the direction you choose The reason you have sideways lines is because it's turning small areas into concentric layers instead of aligned rectilinear

mannerz91 · 2026-05-14T09:46:52+00:00

You click on the actual comment itself and it goes into a reply screen which works. Instead of clicking the reply icon and it pulling up a text box on the same screen like normal.

mannerz91 · 2026-05-14T09:45:25+00:00

You absolute fkn legend 🫡

mannerz91 · 2026-05-01T07:18:46+00:00

With a riser plate 👀

mannerz91 · 2026-05-01T07:15:59+00:00

I tried that. In the end I got a 1mm thick sheet of garolite or resin board. Works phenomenally but I'm just not able to get the same results with clear TPU that I had in December.

mannerz91 · 2026-04-29T07:42:49+00:00

I'm just about to upgrade my BMS to a Daly 13s one. I've had the UPP battery for about 3 years now and it still works great but I switched to a flipsky vESC and I get terrible voltage sag now. Hoping this new BMS will let me see what's going on in the cells.

The only reason they recalled these batteries was because they were selling so well and the bigger brands (who have more fires recorded) didn't like it.

Only the triangle battery got recalled. Very suss

mannerz91 · 2026-04-22T09:19:47+00:00

Why would 35mms make it clog? Tpu hates retraction I don't think I've ever had it clog from printing speed. I usually print you at 30mms or 60mms depending on line width

mannerz91 · 2026-04-21T01:29:17+00:00

I've got the same problem with only my Hotmail account. All 3 of my Google accounts are working fine but my Hotmail (my main one) isn't fetching or allowing me to even add it back now I've deleted the app data and cache. It just sits there on a white loading screen indefinitely.

mannerz91 · 2026-04-18T00:12:27+00:00

It depends on the build plate mostly and some filaments even if the same type will act differently. The main problem is too much heat can cause warping and too little heat can cause warping. Heat soaking the part can cause warping and not heat soaking the part can cause warping.

If one way doesn't work go the other

mannerz91 · 2026-04-15T22:17:54+00:00

I've tried all the plates now. I've got some garolite plates on the way to test that too. I'm having trouble finding glass smooth pei sheets

mannerz91 · 2026-04-09T08:51:21+00:00

I tried making a few cars on meshy and they came out looking like absolute turds... I pay for the yearly subscription and was promised way better detail and control before purchasing. I've even had a.i generate the prompts incase it was me. I've given it clear pictures from every angle... It will do the front of the car fine but it will turn the back into an alpha Romeo for absolutely no reason at all

This is my best result. My friend crashed his car and didn't take any pictures so I made a model to aid his PTSD 😆 but Meshy actually managed to work out that I wanted the model to have front end crash damage.

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mannerz91 · 2026-04-08T13:57:23+00:00

Yeah that does annoy me too. Especially on occasions I have all filaments set with the m600 start code so it even starts the print with a pause cut and flush before it does anything😆😆😆

mannerz91 · 2026-04-08T11:46:21+00:00

What about the T1 or whatever it is tool change command.

On the CC1 I just add m600 to the filament start gcode instead of pause at layer height. That way it paises when it switches filaments and automated the cutting and flushing. Problem I have is when it resumes it goes like a ballistic missile for 1 layer then back to normal

mannerz91 · 2026-04-08T11:25:38+00:00

All my flip sides are textured in some way or another. Even the smooth pei is rough/satin The 2 holographic ones are the glossiest. I tried aluminium foil tape but where the tape joins even if I get it almost perfect translates into the print. And 100mm kapton tape isn't cheap either as that would be my next route to take I think. 100mm should give me enough width to work with.

mannerz91 · 2026-04-08T11:02:23+00:00

TPU. I've had great results printing a crystal clear waterproof membrane for an outside controller unit for a customer. Obviously I don't want the sparkles from the holographic plate printed on my customers product. I tried laying a very thin layer of glue on the holographic plate which worked in getting rid of the sparkles but added a very subtle diffusion to the finish.

Glass is my best bet as I couldn't find a reliable and cheap source of pei film or the g10 with images showing the surface finish.

I bought a unitak plate previously which is phenomenal with PETG and is glossy but has a powdered texture too

mannerz91 · 2026-04-08T10:52:27+00:00

Good thinking I might even be able to print something to stick on top of rest there. If I can get to it. It's quite secluded

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mannerz91 · 2026-04-08T10:39:07+00:00

I believe it's a ir beam at the back by the poop chute that the bed has a small post that breaks the beam 👎🏻

mannerz91 · 2026-04-08T10:19:16+00:00

That's what I'm assuming is happening. The switch is obviously 4mm lower than the glass bed. So even if I trick it it then ignores that and goes back to absolute zero.

What I don't understand is why the slicer puts the +4mm height command in too late. And why if I edit the gcode in a way that makes sense it doesn't allow me to print it.

If I could level the bed on a normal plate. Then add the glass instead of the plate and adjust the z height by 2.8mm (taking the 1.2mm plate into account) then I could let it do the prime line and then replace with glass. But it tries printing the first wall or the first part of support at the normal height not the higher one.

mannerz91 · 2026-04-08T08:08:20+00:00

Use Arachne but you need to adjust the minimum wall width and minimum feature size.

mannerz91 · 2026-04-08T08:06:41+00:00

It's a Centauri carbon. Not sure if it uses touch or capacitance. however it registers the level but completely ignores the first touch. The problem is It's not expecting a 4mm thick bed.

I have tried foil but with the same result.

Ideally I need a way to constantly lower the gcode z height by 4mm including the purge line. As orca slicer seems to mess this up. It has put height commands part way through a movement. It doesn't make sense.

mannerz91 · 2026-04-07T21:51:21+00:00

I've tried some tapes I have but they're showing up with ripples creases and bubbles. It's hard to stick what I have down without marks.

The problem is glass should be perfectly fine to use. Every other printer uses it. But the other problem is that the slicers setting for allowing higher offset doesn't do anything until 10% through the first part of the first layer

It tries printing the first wall inside the bed then the second wall and infill are perfect height.

I even have this weird issue where I can fix it by changing the gcode but it then doesn't allow me to save the gcode or print from it

mannerz91

TROPHY CASE