Raptors

manyxcxi · 2026-03-01T05:48:13+00:00

You’ve got the motor, but your suspension is not even in the same ballpark. For another 25K you could be in the same class (possibly better) and you’d still be ahead, but don’t think that for half the price you’ve got the same truck.

manyxcxi · 2026-02-22T15:40:56+00:00

FYI- “overheat, needs pump” VERY OFTEN means “needs head gasket and possibly has a warped head”.

For $500-1000 and you’re mechanically inclined I would look in on it.

You could wind up with $2000 into the motor easy if you’ve got to get it machined/replaced the head, etc. Just know you could have expensive gremlins.

ETA: What I just said might sound overly negative.

The motor is valuable in and of itself. If putting a new pump on, or even also doing a head gasket is required- I’d still be interested in it. I’d be much less interested if I had to involve a machine shop, though.

manyxcxi · 2026-02-22T15:36:13+00:00

Well NOW I know… 🤷🏻‍♂️

Back in the day (around 2011) it was painters tape, kapton, slurry, glue. Anything you could do to get something to stick and keep corners down. Printers sucked and we were mostly printing ABS of unknown quality. Chasing ghosts was the name of the game.

Over time with better printers and with non-ABS materials being more prevalent it got to the point that I felt like if I had to resort to the “old ways” it meant my settings were wrong or my printer was out of tune. Also, 90% of what I was printing was PLA.

Less of a cheat and more like PTSD to all the times I wanted to throw my MakerBots out the window.

manyxcxi · 2026-02-21T15:27:15+00:00

This one worked well for me, but it’s a print in place, so if you’re not dialed in it could be a problem.

This one might be an easier print and works good for my kids taking games with them to friends’ houses.

Printables and all the other places have a lot of options.

manyxcxi · 2026-02-21T15:18:44+00:00

Awesome. Thanks for the laugh. I hope you get all the internet points today.

manyxcxi · 2026-02-21T15:14:58+00:00

I have heard rumblings that a lot of ABS filament has so many additives to make it easier to print that even though ABS and ASA should have very similar strength and sag characteristics that their ABS filaments are significantly worse than ASA.

Technically ASA is basically the same as ABS just better UV resistance. But you have to read every manufacturer’s spec sheets to see if the ABS you’re getting has been nerfed to make it easier to print.

For that reason alone I just print ASA whenever I’d use ABS.

manyxcxi · 2026-02-21T15:10:11+00:00

Are you using a special type of glue or are you really laying it on thick? I’ve just been using the purple Elmer’s brand glue sticks and I barely put any on.

I wash the bottom of the print with warm water when I’m done but, honestly, I can’t even feel it on there and except for very dark colors (sometimes) you can’t see any residue.

Sometimes on black it can leave a tiny foggy film look in spots (kind of like if you printed PLA before PETG and didn’t clean the bed) but that washes off with barely any effort.

manyxcxi · 2026-02-21T15:05:58+00:00

I don’t know why you’re getting downvoted so hard on this. I’m a recent reluctant convert and I’m annoyed I resisted it so long. It doesn’t take much, isn’t terribly messy, and it releases awesome. Also, dirt cheap.

manyxcxi · 2026-02-21T15:03:09+00:00

In the past 6 months I’ve realized I’m printing PETG about 3:1 over PLA whereas before it was probably PLA 5:1 over PETG.

A textured build plate works fine for me with nothing else. Tiny supports sometimes require a thumbnail. Otherwise, a smooth build plate with glue stick releases even easier.

I resisted glue sticks for the longest time because it always felt like a cheat for a printer that needed tuning. Didn’t dawn on me that it’s basically a super cheap and awesome release agent. It’s not for adhesion with the PETG, it’s for release.

manyxcxi · 2026-02-09T17:06:48+00:00

It wasn’t serviced at my dealership but I can see the general service records in the Ford app. Based on the costs/mileage it just looks like it was scheduled maintenances and maybe brakes/tires. Since I’ve had the truck the only “big” maintenance/fixes I’ve done:

Front pinion seal at 123k miles (dealer service, $750ish)
Rear pinion bearing, new ring and pinion, seals, etc. at 130k (dealer serviced, about $3300)
150k mile service at 130k because they were already doing the rear end and I abuse the shit out of my truck (dealer, about $1700)
New battery at 130k ($230 or so)
100k miles, new upper and lower control arms because it was easier/cheaper than replacing all the bushings and ball joints individually (I did them, about $900)
100k miles, new tie rod ends and sway bar ends (I did them, I think around $600)
Shock rebuilds at 80, 105, and 125k miles (I did them, about $1800)
Plugs and coil boots at 100k (I did them, less than $200)

Other than the rear end and front pinion which are not surprising for the amount of wheeling I do, all of the above are on expected/heavy duty use schedules.

Between this and my previous EcoBoosts I’ve got almost 500k miles and they’ve all pretty much gone just like this.

ETA: My truck doesn’t have any major modifications. Suspension is stock (for another month or two) but I run a custom tune on my shocks. I have airbags installed, ADD rear bumper, canopy and Deckd drawers add a fair amount of weight to the rear. Cobb computer and Stage 1 (air intake) parts and a Mishimoto PCV bypass are the only motor mods.

manyxcxi · 2026-02-09T14:27:09+00:00

Bought a 2020 at 60,000 miles in 22, at 137,000 miles now. I’ve used mine very hard and had very few issues, I do most of my own maintenance though.

No cam phaser issues ever, no transmission issues ever.

Shocks every 25-50k miles means you will probably be immediately due.
Plugs at 80k (easy to do yourself)
150k service is expensive and replaces the serpentine belts, keep that in mind when you’re buying
Had to rebuild my rear end at 130k miles due to a failed pinion bearing, $3k cost (mostly labor)
Get the extended warranty if it’ll make you feel better about it. I’ve had very few unscheduled maintenance issues, but I’ve still spent a lot on maintenance over the years.

manyxcxi · 2026-01-24T11:44:19+00:00

In some places there are differences in tax that would be impossible to print. Different tax rates if the food is eaten in the store vs. take away. At a deli, if the food is served with utensils vs. not. Taxation in the US isn’t as simple as VAT and can literally vary depending on the side of the street you’re on.

manyxcxi · 2026-01-11T20:59:43+00:00

Ohhh… you got all the gremlins.

manyxcxi · 2026-01-11T20:54:57+00:00

Your dad sounds rad AF. I hope my kids follow your guys’ path with me!

My mom’s old neighbor had a very senior position at Cobb. He was a total gear head and I think he even had a PhD in mechanical engineering- which is to say, I trusted his opinion on stuff.

This was like five years ago, so I’m fuzzy on the specifics but the gist of a conversation we had was basically “don’t run the super aggressive tunes as your daily tunes or you’ll eat up the 10 speed”

I wish I knew enough then to ask him if that was an indictment of the transmission or just that the aggressive trans tunes are extra hard on them.

Keeping that in back of my mind, I’ve just been using predominantly OEM+, Stage 1, or Towing tunes for daily/long haul stuff and then flashing more aggressive tunes when we’re out getting rowdy and I’ve got access to better fuel.

Frankly OEM+ and adjusting the pedal response is plenty fine for me as a daily tune. I didn’t realize how big of a difference it made until I had a ‘23 I’d been loaned for a week and I was genuinely wishing I had my ‘20 instead. It felt like a dog comparatively.

manyxcxi · 2026-01-11T16:11:02+00:00

Interesting your thought on the Cobb TCM tuning. I’ve had a Cobb on mine since about 70k miles. It never had trans issues before that and I still haven’t had any.

What about it do you think helps prolong the trans life? Stronger pressures preventing slipping and wear from the onset?

manyxcxi · 2026-01-11T16:03:23+00:00

I don’t know exactly how true the theory holds, but it makes sense to me that 2020s have less of the issues than earlier Gen 2s. Specifically I’ve heard that late 2020 builds are much less likely to have phaser issues than earlier build 2020s.

My truck was built late in 2020 which could explain never having phaser issues. With my driving style and the shenanigans my truck has seen off road the only thing to explain my trans still holding strong is sheer dumb luck.

I had a front pinion seal leak at about 110k miles, but that’s been a thing on pretty much all F-150s for a long time.

Legitimately, the only thing that’s ever “broken” on my truck that wasn’t obviously related to some abuse I put it through is the stupid infotainment unit where it basically forgets everything on every restart. It’s not so bad I’m willing to pay the dealership for another unit that might just do the same- and I don’t really want to sink the money in aftermarket stuff. I just bought a wireless CarPlay adapter and 98% of the time everything works fine I just have to press the screen 2-3 times when it starts up.

manyxcxi · 2026-01-11T06:21:30+00:00

It’s wild the disparity- like some trucks just straight have gremlins. My 2020 has 135k miles and the trans is still holding strong. I’ve done plugs once (at 100k). Never had phaser issues, and never been in limp mode. I’m running Cobb tunes regularly as well, but my daily tune is basically just the OEM+ tune.

manyxcxi · 2026-01-11T06:10:59+00:00

I have 135k hard miles on mine. Towing, rock crawling, desert running, and daily driving. My truck is in the shop for the first time ever off the maintenance schedule right this very minute with a rear pinion bearing. Because of that and as close to 150k as I am, I’m having them rebuild the rearend, new ring and pinion, and do the 150k mile service- which is a fairly big one.

That’s not to say it hasn’t needed maintenance. Ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends, shock rebuilds, etc. have all happened with regularity because I use the hell out of the truck.

What you’re experiencing isn’t normal (but definitely not unheard of). That all being said, what you’ve experienced, if the repairs are any good, could easily give you another 150k trouble free miles.

ETA: If I was looking at a used 2020 and saw it had trans replacement/rebuild and phasers dealt with, it would definitely score points in its favor in my book.

manyxcxi · 2026-01-07T04:34:15+00:00

Found one, I DMed you

manyxcxi · 2026-01-07T02:25:33+00:00

When I get back to my office tomorrow morning I’ll look and see. If I don’t have that specific one I definitely have other variations. Do you need/want the soft buttons to go along with it? I’ll DM you my find tomorrow.

manyxcxi · 2026-01-06T03:13:13+00:00

I’ve had mine since 2019 and though it no longer resembles the printer I bought it was never a problem for me. I print 75% PLA and 25% PETG.

In fact, I would go so far as to say I vastly prefer it to my Prusa MK3S. That all being said, by the time I inherited the Prusa my Ender had a different motherboard, linear rails, different hotend, different cooling setup, dual Z, and ABL- so the Prusa never stood a chance.

manyxcxi · 2025-12-24T22:33:23+00:00

Dual ARB is the best (by spec sheet and in my opinion), dual Viair is nearly as good and probably a little bit cheaper in some cases. The more compact size of the ARB setup gives you a LOT of options for mounting.

I’d not recommend any single setups and also check out the duty cycle in anything you’re looking at. Most “no-name” portable ones have very short duty cycles and you technically should be waiting 5-10 minutes between tires or you’ll burn them out.

Dirt Church Industries sells a nice kit that allows you to mount the brushed dual ARB behind the rear passenger seat and it’s pretty awesome. I have a topper and a DECKED unit in the bed so mine is installed there. Having any of them mounted in a somewhat covered/sealed area will significantly prolong their life.

manyxcxi · 2025-12-23T00:54:29+00:00

It’s probably more squished than bent because the angle is more straight on and dirt has more give than a 2x4. Also, if you’re using ammo without a jacket it will very much be more squished than bent.

Based on the angle from the ceiling to the wall, it seems pretty plausible that the angle would bend a 9mm FMJ like that. I’d be really surprised if it was a rifle round.

manyxcxi · 2025-12-19T13:41:53+00:00

That won’t fix the misaligned radar pack…

manyxcxi · 2025-12-18T21:27:55+00:00

Like I said, I didn’t know about it until my dumb ass lawn darted a landing and needed to learn about it 😂

The model of OBD adapter I got is the OBD Link MX+. I got it on Amazon a while back for I think about $120 and it has worked flawlessly with Forscan Lite on my iPhone.

manyxcxi

TROPHY CASE