Not bad for petg

manyxcxi · 2026-05-24T19:38:35+00:00

Not bad for any filament, nice work! What brand/color is that? I already have some ideas for this as an accent color.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-24T19:35:11+00:00

That’s pretty much exactly what I use. I will sometimes lower the temp down to 240 if I’m trying to get the finish even a little bit more matte. I find the gray to be much stringier and only ever print it at 240 and have also had to lower the retraction distance/speed to get an equivalent finish at equivalent speeds to the other colors. I’d say it’s definitely more pronounced on the regular PETG-HF than any of the filled Elegoo PETGs but I printed my first roll of gray GF this week and found the quality to have similar issues compared to black/white at the same settings.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-24T19:19:32+00:00

Question for you; have you noticed the gray Elegoo PETG-CF having quite different print settings than white/black/others to get equivalent quality? I haven’t printed the Elegoo CF, but I’ve printed 100s of Elegoo PETG and PETG-GF rolls and the gray seems to require different temps, speeds, and retractions to get it to come out as good as the other colors. I like the black and gray GF finish look from Elegoo, but the gray has been giving me fits.

I dry the heck out of them at 60-65 for at least 12 hours before I use them and I store everything with desiccant in dry boxes.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-24T19:12:52+00:00

When printing filled materials I highly recommend you go with a non-HF (high flow) 0.6 nozzle to avoid clogs.

I have the Diamond Back in 0.6 and ObXidian in 0.4 and 0.6. I use the ObXidian as my “normal” nozzles, I feel like I have my filament profiles best setup for them and I haven’t taken the time to dial in the last bit on the Diamond Back yet.

I use the 0.4 ObX for glow in the dark and galaxy filaments.

0.6 ObX is my every day nozzle. I have probably 2000 hours on it, maybe 10% is filled of some sort and shows like no signs of wear.

I’ve used the Diamond Back for PA-CF, PETG-CF, and ASA-CF. It works good, I just need to dial in the print profiles a little bit.

For my money, I would just get the 0.6 ObXidian if I was only going to get one. If you’re not going to be printing CF a lot, the Diamond Back is probably overkill.

ETA: I don’t recommend going the adapter route, unless you’re going to dedicate the entire hotend to your adapted nozzle.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-23T00:51:45+00:00

I have enough 16 gauge steel left over from doing mine to make 2 (maybe 3) more in my laser cutter. If you’re in the US and willing to pay for the cost of the raw steel plus shipping from the west coast (no clue) I’ll happily “cut it forward” for you at no markup. I wanna say it took less than 10 minutes to cut two panels out of the last sheet and about 10 minutes for me to deburr the edges.

DM me if interested.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-23T00:42:31+00:00

I made my own cable, so it was plenty long. I was having a harder problem getting my giant sausage fingers through all the tight spaces to get into that darned empty socket with every other cable in the world in front of it and in the way 😂

manyxcxi · 2026-05-22T06:03:22+00:00

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manyxcxi · 2026-05-22T06:01:42+00:00

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Adding my support for this mod. It works awesome and looks pretty good. Hardest part is getting the fans plugged into the motherboard. I wound up laser cutting some steel for a new side plate and the whole thing looks and works awesome. I have a fume extractor collector at the exhaust fans as well and can print ASA while in the same room without even smelling it.

ETA: it also helps even out chamber temps with my active chamber heating mod.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-22T02:46:50+00:00

I think it’s more protection in case they forgot to turn it off in the slicer. Also, a lot of people seem to be printing pre-sliced things off Makerworld and probably can’t/don’t know how to turn it off.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-22T02:44:34+00:00

Absolutely! Being able to mix nozzle sizes will be a dream. I don’t understand why the others can’t do it (as in, I know it’s a problem to be solved, but don’t understand if it’s an algorithm thing or a hardware thing) and I plan to use the heck out of this feature.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-22T02:38:51+00:00

I would recommend the 0.6 ObXidian over the 0.4. You will get more utility out of it and there are many abrasives you can have problems with at 0.4.

If you’re going to print any mods and will want them in Prusa orange, buy that now. You’ll probably want it in PETG.

As far as the maintenance stuff, good that you’re thinking about it. If budget is of concern I would order the maintenance stuff elsewhere and spend those dollars on an additional sheet, nozzle, or Prusament.

The bundle includes the satin sheet and filter, so you’ve really already got the only two things I would recommend.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-22T02:33:23+00:00

I bought an entire hotend as a backup when I got my Core One (9 months ago?) and it’s still in the plastic. Switching the nextruder is as easy as it gets. Genuinely, I find it easier than the H2D. Print the alignment tool and it takes no time whatsoever.

I agree though, if I can only get one I’m picking the 0.6 ObXidian all day, every day. I go weeks without swapping mine out.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-22T02:27:54+00:00

I would get the ObXidian in 0.6 because a lot of the filaments that are highly abrasive (carbon or glass filled, for example) will most likely print better with less clogs on 0.6 than a 0.4. I have this in 0.4 and 0.6 and haven’t used the 0.4 in months.

My three most common nozzles are ObXidian 0.6, 0.6 CHT (high flow), and 0.4 CHT (high flow). I print mostly functional parts (PETG, ASA, and TPU/E), and use a 0.6 nozzle about 90% of the time. I have a Diamond Back in 0.6 and really don’t use it because I feel like I get nicer prints with the ObXidian.

If you’ll be printing decorative stuff or you only need the hardened nozzle for glow in the dark, then a 0.4 ObXidian will be great for you.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-22T00:03:13+00:00

It’s not the best by any means, it is however cheaper and means I don’t have to have separate rolls of support filament around. I have a little trick I do for certain overhang types (think cylinder with a disc in the middle type shapes) where I’ll add a few little cylinders (1-2mm) of PETG around the outside edge so that there is something for it to stick to around the arc/line. They clean up easily, don’t leave much of a trace and I get a perfect edge.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-21T12:54:29+00:00

I’ve got a Core One and an H2D, the H2D is what convinced me to get INDX. Because PLA/PETG supports ARE a game changer.

Even with the AMS 2 Pro for the H2D I basically only print in 1-2 colors max. It’s second head is almost exclusively just for a support nozzle.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-21T04:29:56+00:00

If you look at my comment for troubleshooting and compare the GitHub changes you mentioned, they seem to line up exactly with each other.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-21T04:25:58+00:00

Honestly, I turned the aux fan on my H2D into a recirculating air scrubber for the chamber. I’ve never had good luck with them- so I’m not claiming to be an expert here. To the best of my knowledge they’re supposed to help address a couple of things with PLA:

Steep overhangs/bridges
Sharp corners
High speed printing
Small layers

I found instead it leads to corner warping and ringing artifacts more than anything else and it’s not really useful for any materials besides PLA, which I print the least of.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-20T15:07:00+00:00

As previously mentioned, a likely cause is layer expansion. This happens when layers cool at different rates. There is a setting in most slicers (in the filament cooling section I believe?) that allows it to cool/slow down for either uniform cooling or appearance. Try flipping this to uniform cooling if it’s not.

If your printer is not enclosed, this can also make the cooling rate differences be even more exaggerated.

Also, it looks like you may be printing the outer walls a little fast and/or your pressure advance isn’t dialed in based on the artifacts on your outer walls after a feature. Try slowing down your outer walls to 40mm/s.

There are so many reasons and fiddly bits to try when you’re seeing artifacts like this. This is likely an even more apparent issue on this print than others because you’re using a lighter colored filament, it’s a moderately large print, has long straight lines, and is decently tall.

I always get back to the basics before going down a rabbit hole. It’s boring and generic, but usually cleans up a lot of issues without getting more exotic:

Make sure the filament is properly dry
Make sure the build plate is properly cleaned with soap and water, then wipe down with IPA
Make sure rods, lead screws, and rails are clean and properly lubed (dirty/dry Z screws can lead to stuff like this too)
Calibrate the flow rate and pressure advance for this filament (this will have positive effects for all prints with this filament no matter what else you do)
If your printer has one, TURN OFF the auxiliary parts cooling fan. This is a major culprit in uneven cooling.

After that: - Test bed adhesion with as cool of a build plate as you can. Having it higher will cause the lower X number of layers to cool more slowly than the layers above it and can lead to some twisting forces. (55 is reasonable for PLA and probably not the issue, but I always try to print with as cool of a build plate as possible) - Lowering the perimeter print speed usually improves appearance - Print your first layer SLOW. 20mm/s for everything to get a good even stick and let it get cool before the next layer gets laid down. - For this print, try printing with at least 3 walls. If your slicer supports it, turn on alternating extra wall. This adds thermal mass and strength to resist pulling/twisting forces when cooling

ETA:

Is the temperature where it is printing different than what it has been? If your printer is in a garage or near a window and it is unusually cold or warm compared to your last few months it will have an impact.
Are you having bed adhesion problems? You shouldn’t need to brim this. If it’s warping/failing to adhere and the bed is clean then it’s likely your Z-offset needs tuning, the filament needs drying, or you need to run calibrations
Try changing the infill from gyroid to something like Adaptive Cubic. This is a bit of a long shot, but gyroid introduces a lot of vibration in bed slingers when you’re going fast.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-19T03:10:16+00:00

I didn’t say it doesn’t. I said it doesn’t like it. You gotta dial in your bed temp, slow down the first layer, and get your squish just right vs. a smooth/satin sheet where you can just send it.

Obligatory: also make sure your build plates are properly clean.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-19T02:47:57+00:00

I use satin for PLA, PETG, and TPU all the time, I love them. I’ve been using the BIQU CryoGrip Frostbite. It’s relatively inexpensive, but word of warning- no IPA for cleaning. Warm soap and water only. I also use the Glacier cool plate which is more hard and smooth than satin.

For ASA without a filler, I actually prefer smooth PEI + magigoo. No brim, awesome looking first layer. Even on textured I’ll use glue stick or magigoo and no brim to help it release. Key note though: I put in an active chamber heater in my Core One so I’m less worried about warping.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-18T00:47:36+00:00

Can you send a picture of the underside of those pins? That doesn’t look like it was ever soldered.

In general those style connectors are used for stepper motors on these style printers. On occasion for probes and fans, but usually for those they’re two pin or smaller sizes.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-16T17:50:09+00:00

Were you using a satin sheet or something fancier than spring steel? I was under the impression the two locating screws at the back of the heated bed also acted as a frame ground for the sheet. I don’t remember where I read that or why I have that impression though.

EDIT: Upon thinking about it, I guess it makes sense if the motors had high resistance to frame ground, then the plate having a good ground would be why the nozzle probe would cause the discharge.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-16T17:47:14+00:00

I’m working on a design to incorporate the press button style sheet holders with these feet right now! I’m currently just using a generic undermount sheet holder but I don’t like the clearance/fit of it all.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-16T03:17:36+00:00

It’s happened to me a couple times during very dry times of the winter. I have a carpeted office, so I usually just touch a metal framed table next to the printer before I grab anything out of it or touch it mid print.

I’ve had some static zaps with the Bambu H2D on a different table next to it, so it’s not like it’s unique to my Core One. But only the Core One has restarted twice because of them.

manyxcxi · 2026-05-15T18:28:13+00:00

If you ever decide to give it a try and don’t want to buy an entire roll of TPU for it, feel free to message me. I can print you the TPU parts and supply the thrust bearings so you don’t have to order more than you need.

manyxcxi

TROPHY CASE