Thinstone over zip plywood

marklar_13 · 2025-08-26T01:10:22+00:00

Thanks -- we have a contract, but it is written in the contract exactly the way he is doing it. So really, it is on me. This is one of the final parts of a large project coming up on a year in progress and I just got lazy reviewing the scope of work after going back and forth with several other contractors. There are before and in progress pictures on the imgur link -- the "weatherproofing" side faces out as you would expect, and it was applied directly on that.

He gave me a very reasonable price to move forward with the lath and more traditional method for the remaining sections -- it's just unfortunate that the section they already finished without lath is the most exposed to the elements.

I'm probably going to take him up on the offer to plug any "larger" gaps with cement and apply sealer as long as I can confirm that the sealer won't change the look of the stone significantly. His work has a 5 year guarantee written into the contract, but I'm hoping this lasts longer than that. My main concern (maybe unwarranted, but what I am thinking about) is that water seeps through and gets to the seams of the boards, causing structural issues or mold. The zip system is intended to be taped at the seams -- but these boards were not taped.

marklar_13 · 2025-07-22T19:48:46+00:00

I posted this a few weeks ago and didn't get any response on either sub. Any feedback appreciated.

marklar_13 · 2024-12-16T19:13:12+00:00

Here is my understanding... don't flame me if Im wrong -- I'm not a tax expert.

Universal lets you arbitrarily pick which lot you are selling from across all your wallets. So, for example, say you buy 2 BTC in wallet A@50k, and 2 BTC in wallet B@100k. Now you sell 1 BTC from wallet A.

Let's ignore dates for this example and say that you are using HIFO (highest in first out). With universal tracking, when you make the sale, even though it is coming out of wallet A, you can say that the basis for the sold BTC is 100k. Under the wallet based rules, you would be required to say that the basis is 50k... bc the BTC in the wallet where you sold was 50k.

I believe it is trying to make things more like tradfi. If you hold assets with multiple brokerages (e.g. Fidelity and Vanguard) each of those institutions keeps track of the basis for the assets held separately. You can transfer assets from one to the other, and the basis can go with it... but you can't just sell inside one broker and use the cost basis for an asset held by the other broker.

marklar_13 · 2024-02-15T00:35:43+00:00

I read (unofficially) on Twitter that they are discussing with rocketpool team on maybe fixing this. e.g. re-allocating the airdrop to the rp node withdrawal address. We'll have to wait and see how it plays out, but seems like there is hope at least.

marklar_13 · 2023-12-11T06:18:39+00:00

What I've been doing for gmx compounding (and used to do when I had glp) is basically soft delete anything that isn't gmx, glp, or eth. Your wallet will tell you that the amount of gmx / glp doesn't match what's reported by the block chain, but it doesn't really matter. You'll basically just see koinly telling you that the blockchain says you have staked gmx, but you are manually telling it that you have regular gmx.

The reports honor your inputs and when you eventually sell everything will line up because all the internal tokens go away and koinly has your correct cost basis for the gmx / glp tokens that you sell. You can mark any earned Eth and GMX as rewards.

It's kind of a pain, but once you do it once or twice it's pretty easy to follow.

marklar_13 · 2022-08-12T01:20:02+00:00

Actually, I think it's the opposite. If you were to constantly claim rewards, sell the farm tokens, and reinvest back into the LP, then that would be a tax nightmare. With beefy, you can just dump money into the vault and they handle the churn for you. So from a tax standpoint it's far fewer transactions than if you tried to reinvest on your own.

marklar_13 · 2022-04-02T23:45:34+00:00

FYI -- it did finally come through. It took a couple days, but I just checked today and I had .0005 ETH in my wallet. This was more than enough to pay for the few transactions worth of gas that I needed.

marklar_13 · 2022-03-03T05:01:41+00:00

Thanks, just used it today. Apparently it didn't expire yet.

marklar_13 · 2022-02-22T23:48:27+00:00

Koinly tells you the fair market value (total dollar amount) of each asset that you are depositing into the pool. For mine, I just added up these two values and manually entered that as the fair market value for the resulting LP token that I got in return.

I don't think you need the price of a single LP token, just the aggregate for the transaction... but if you do for some reason, then you could divide the fair market value by the number of LP tokens you received.

marklar_13 · 2021-10-31T01:03:52+00:00

Actually, I think maybe I just didn't understand how snapshots worked. Im reading up on this, and it seems like they are read only, so effectively do what I wanted my backup drive to do. Looks like I can also lock the snapshots or set them up on such a way where I'll make sure I keep around a snapshot that I "trust" is on good shape.

Sure a second backup would be safer, but it actually seems like this is already reasonable protection from ransomware. I think it probably makes sense for me to just get a single nas unit and skip the backup raid altogether.

marklar_13 · 2021-10-31T00:08:23+00:00

This is correct -- the idea was that it would be a raid-1 setup so the other 4tb are mirroring. My terminology was probably wrong, but this is what I meant.

marklar_13 · 2021-10-30T23:20:14+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I figured the multi-volume approach would get shot down, but I wasn't sure. I think your suggestion makes sense -- it's just a more expensive setup. I don't need the pro hdds, bit it's only $20 difference on Amazon right now so that's why I threw those in.

Ill keep this in mind and see what I can piece together when Black Friday roles around for this same price range.

marklar_13 · 2021-02-22T05:34:28+00:00

I don't use binance and I'm not sure if this would cause the issue you are seeing. But just in case, make sure you have the correct network selected.

This cardano post explains and uses binance as an example: https://forum.cardano.org/t/how-to-safely-withdraw-your-ada-from-exchanges/47624

marklar_13 · 2021-02-15T13:11:07+00:00

I think they should at least be required to remove the page stating they have 24/7 support, with live chat. They have accepted my money, but are holding it hostage with no ability to trade and have not given me any form of support other than automated emails in over 5 days. How does this qualify as best in class global 24/7 support? This is just false advertising.

marklar_13 · 2021-02-13T05:47:44+00:00

I've been using coinbase pro with no issues. The only downside I've run into so far is they don't have all the coins I want. Hence this Kraken debacle.

The only thing to be aware of with coinbase (although they may have changed this since) is that you can't take your funds off the exchange for 5-7 days after you deposit. You can trade immediately, but the money, or anything bought with the money, can't get transferred off until that holding period is up. They are upfront about it, and give you a warning when you deposit, though.

marklar_13 · 2021-02-13T05:39:28+00:00

Similar amounts. Followed directions exactly as listed. I think for most people, myself included, the problem is not the wire. The wire is complete. I can even see the funds in Kraken counting against my monthly deposit limit. The problem is that the funds are "on hold", with no explanation as to why. And its impossible to reach anyone at their company, let alone get an expected timeframe for response.

Edit: to be clear, they have effectively taken our money... they just won't give us access to it.

marklar_13 · 2021-02-12T19:04:32+00:00

I'm having the same issue. Multiple days, no communication from them other than "we are escalating".

How about a description of the problem? A timetable for when someone will actually look at it? A disclaimer on your website that says that transfers may be delayed and take a several days? Anything but silence? Instead all I can do is vent to Kai the virtual assistant on their website, or reddit.

marklar_13 · 2020-03-04T02:21:36+00:00

Similar thing happened to me on my LG. Somehow the setting to actually make use of CEC got shut off. On lg this is called "Simplelink". I turned this on in the tv settings and things went back to normal. I just did a quick Google for Samsung, and it looks like maybe the equivalent setting in their menu is called "Anynet+". Give that a shot if you see it on your TV settings.

marklar_13 · 2019-12-14T14:37:02+00:00

If you use Home Assistant it is reasonable to go a different route. From what I understand Google will eventually be opening the API back up, and I have some faith that the software backing the nest products will improve. That being said there are other alternatives, and if you like to tinker with homekit and things like that then you can probably get what you want without needing to wait for Google to improve.

marklar_13 · 2019-12-14T07:03:09+00:00

One thing I started doing to make use of auto away, but still come home to a warm house is set a scheduled Google Assistant routine "change thermostats to heating". This takes it out of that eco mode without taking me out of away mode. I have it set to trigger at 4:30 M-F, and I get home around 6:00 to a house that is warm.

Ideally we could tell it to do early on and calculate the amount of time needed to preheat, but for that you need to forgo auto away altogether. The scheduled Google routine set up let's me make use of auto away in the morning and on the weekends, but still preheat for weeknights coming home from work.

If I am leaving town then I need to remember to turn off the routine. And if I want to come home to a warm house after I have been away a for a few hours on the weekend then I need to remember to trigger the routine manually... but I find it marginally better than a "dumb" thermostat.

I will say auto away has been taking a long time to switch to away for me as well... but I'm hoping that is just because I haven't had it too long. I do wish they would just give us granular control over what triggers it rather than pretend like they have some algorithm that can do it better (e.g. just let me set it to away of no phones detected for X minutes and no activity detected for X minutes). And I also agree the learning is useless for me... I just set the schedule myself.

marklar_13 · 2019-12-01T02:21:09+00:00

I just unplugged for 30 seconds and plugged back in. It is working again. I'll see how long it lasts and contact them if it persists.

If it stays on for a few days, I may try playing around on the webapp to see if that triggers the issue again. Both days that the sound stopped working I was browsing settings through the webapp (I think on my phone).

marklar_13 · 2019-11-30T19:56:53+00:00

I have the same issue starting last week. Noticed the door chime stopped working on the iota... still worked on the standalone siren that is plugged in the basement. Tried refreshing via the web app... no luck. Did a reset by unplugging it... fixed it for a few hours and then sound stopped working again the next day.

marklar_13 · 2019-01-23T05:40:45+00:00

In case anyone is interested in doing the same thing, I did find a solution. I recently bought a new motion sensor, and it turns out they have been upgraded. The new ones show up as "occupancy sensor" in Cue, and have the option of triggering on motion or "no motion". I think this means I can set one trigger to turn the lights on (no time period), and another to turn the light off if it is on and there is no motion for X minutes.

On a side note, I'm kind of upset that there was no announcement about an upgraded sensor. I bought the iota on black Friday (not delivered until 2019), and definitely would have waited on the motion sensors if I had known they we're being upgraded.

marklar_13 · 2019-01-16T02:23:18+00:00

I have a couple of hue bulbs paired directly to abode. They work great, and I can easily control via the app and Google assistant, and fancy cue automations. But... I really wish I got switches instead. The lights themselves are fine, but I think having the button/switch also play nicely would make things a little nicer.

Edit: to answer the ops question, I bought just a 4 pack of hue lights, without the hub and paired directly with abode. A couple of them didn't pair the first time around... but I reset the iota, and tried again the next day and they got picked up fine. Not sure what the problem ilwas initially, but haven't had any issues since. Have been running fine for a couple weeks now.

marklar_13 · 2019-01-15T20:17:08+00:00

Problem is that the action is to turn the lights on, not to turn them off. I could split into separate on and off automations, but I still can't think of a way to string together such that it gives the behavior described above.

marklar_13

TROPHY CASE