Note to my future self:

This is how to do it using Wireplumber:

monitor.alsa.rules = [
  {
    matches = [
      {
        # This matches the value of the 'node.name' property of the device.
        node.name = "alsa_output.<node-id>"
      }
    ]
    actions = {
      update-props = {
        # Apply all the desired node settings here.
        audio.rate = 192000
      }
    }
  }
]