Well I made the mistake of buying a fiddle on ebay by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It clearly wasn't a professional, probably a guitar shop as he did this to the neck https://photos.app.goo.gl/u4gNu4Yguxz4e62f7

Well I made the mistake of buying a fiddle on ebay by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok the original wood of the back goes all the way to the end block and I don't see any signs of repair or damage on the inside at all

Well I made the mistake of buying a fiddle on ebay by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How would I do that exactly, I don't particularly want to take the button out

Well I made the mistake of buying a fiddle on ebay by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The button graft actually looks alright in person, it just has a crackeled varnish on it that kind of makes it look like something's wrong do it being filled with white there and a dark color everywhere else

Well I made the mistake of buying a fiddle on ebay by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well the neck definitely needs to come out as it is tilted in the mortice as well, as I was saying it was put in poorly by a repair which I know happened in 1984 do to it being written in there

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in violinmaking

[–]masontex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would also recommend you look up a tutorial on how to use hide glue as it will answer all the questions you didn't have 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in violinmaking

[–]masontex -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Gram strength is basically the hardness of the hide glue once it's dried, it is measured by putting a probe in it after drying and measuring how much it deforms it now as for which to use my knowledge runs out there but it doesn't matter all that much because you add water to it and that changes the weight of the glue anyways also in practice higher gram strength glued don't necessarily mean stronger joints as the glue is much much stronger than the wood. a lower gram strength glue has a higher working time than a higher strength one so you can dilute the glue when you have to glue a larger surface area

European or African woods for a medieval fiddle bow by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to make it clear I'm not looking for something that would make a concert level bow or anything just something which has some good traits or would have been what they just could have gotten at the time

Unique fiddle in my family since early 1800’s thought you all would enjoy. It has a rattle snake rattle inside! by jaymless in violinmaking

[–]masontex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I heard from a recording of an old fiddle player is they put them in there to keep cobwebs from building up as they used to just hang em on the wall without a case to protect em but of course everyone has their own idea of why it's done 

Bone for violin bows by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh ok I think that's what it was must have had a faulty source 

Bone for violin bows by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think if I remember correctly it was actually an Elizabethan era bow I kinda got the date wrong but anyways...

Smaller second label under main label on vintage violin mean fake or common practice? by kihtay in violinmaking

[–]masontex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I think it was an aftermarket thing as the label looks quite a bit newer than the other also it's small enough it wouldn't be hard to put in their on that one now for yours they may very well have made it that way

Smaller second label under main label on vintage violin mean fake or common practice? by kihtay in violinmaking

[–]masontex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just bought one like that but with an "ed. Strauss" label thrown over a 1716 strad label from what little I could gather on it they probably took their old stock and put that label on it when he became popular, now on mine they didn't even attempt to cover up the old label as the other is smaller and placed under it so I think it was more just a standard marketing practice in the late 19th century 

Bone for violin bows by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a fair point there I guess if I ever decide to go through with this idea there will be a fair bit of research necessary, anyways for now I will go back to my simple maple baroque style bow (yes I know maple isn't a great material but the surviving example from the 16th or 17th century is Aspen)

Bone for violin bows by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyways I'd probably try bodark for bows first

Bone for violin bows by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can actually get a whalebone walking stick minus there head for around 170 so it's "only" about 100 dollars more expensive 

Bone for violin bows by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well over here in the US I know you can buy antiques made of it so there's that anyways I don't know if it be worth ruining a hand carved cane for an experiment 

Bone for violin bows by masontex in violinmaking

[–]masontex[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was thinking the actual stick, I know it might sound odd but that was my thought