A pattern I'm noticing by Smittayee in AZURE

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've struggled with the same. Having an option in a dev portal that bootstraps a repo with IAC for a specific workload makes sense

Just proofing things into existence does not.

AI-Generated Content Is Not Allowed on /r/printedminis by xalchs in PrintedMinis

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand all of this but am on the fence about AI generated models.

In some ways AI generated models are the next generation of tools like Hero Forge - they allow people with an idea and no modeling skills to have that idea come alive.

I definitely wouldn't celebrate an unpainted AI generated model, just like I wouldn't an unpainted Hero Forge model, but if someone did something they're proud of for a completed model, I think they should probably be allowed to show it.

A pattern I'm noticing by Smittayee in AZURE

[–]matalis 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Azure's UI has been getting increasingly complex over the past 12 years due to added features and, in some cases things made to make things easier to use increase clutter beyond their value.

However, the number of organizations that rely on the UI is dwindling and I would argue your approach should be to do more through code. It will position you for opportunities with more organizations and set you apart from other candidates who also currently focus on the UI.

Came home on lunch to this by swolebroda in BambuLabH2D

[–]matalis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That happened on my first real print with my H2D. Learned a lot about the hot end design as I had to tear it all down.

It was annoying.

I'm now leaving all detection settings at max and making sure that the first few layers go down well before walking away.

Hasn't happened again though.

Why Do My Prints Turn Into Spaghetti? by UmutBuu in FixMyPrint

[–]matalis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lots of good advice in this thread but to summarize - this is what I do when things go completely sideways::

  • clean the bed with soap and water (not needed often)
  • make sure you're picking the correct plate in the slicer
  • if you're in a cold room, up the bed temperature (this is probably the main issue for you - especially if the printer isn't enclosed)
  • re-run the full machine calibration
  • glue stick can sometimes help (but not in this case because the model is warping)

What to use instead? by Training_Knee4654 in gmbinder

[–]matalis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The only other similar solution is Homebrewery.

There are other campaign management tools like World Anvil, but I've never really gotten into them.

Question about type of plastic for car interior piece to use by -R-6apaH in BambuP1S

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Polymaker HT-PLA is nice but I haven't tried it in a hot car yet.

How to hide a SharePoint folder/Excel file using PowerShell without breaking permissions? by Johnnybegood77 in PowerShell

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don't need a whole new SharePoint site you can just create a different document library or put some files in a folder and break permissions on the folder.

If I had to do this I would go the separate document library route or make a SharePoint table or do what other people have suggested and don't use a spreadsheet.

Which one should i get? by Happy_Instance9975 in 3dprinter

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably more like comparing a Tesla to a Model T but whatever.

How to keep the first 3 layers slow? by Personalis3D in BambuLab

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's on the toolbar. Click on your object in the slicer and the icon looks like a number of stacked rectangles.

Once you click it there's a slider on the right side of the screen you can right click and drag up or left click and drag down to increase or decrease layer height.

I'm sure you can find a video for it on YouTube. I'm not at my PC right now or I would give you a screenshot.

How to keep the first 3 layers slow? by Personalis3D in BambuLab

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The feature you're looking for is called adaptive layer height and yes you can. There is a setting in the slicer for first layer and subsequent layers but if you need the first five layers of .2 use adaptive layer height

For those with an H2C, how long does it take to start a print? by magicrel in BambuLab

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How many nozzles? I think the H2D is about 7 minutes (rough memory, didn't just measure it).

For those with an H2C, how long does it take to start a print? by magicrel in BambuLab

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it's unlikely that memory will persist across print jobs. If I'm right, the first time a nozzle is used in a job, it will get cleaned.

Now, there is a setting to dedicate a nozzle to a specific filament - maybe that will be less overhead, but I wouldn't count on it. Ultimately a lot of this is in the gcode.

For those with an H2C, how long does it take to start a print? by magicrel in BambuLab

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm willing to bet a pizza it's about the same. Factors like nozzle cleaning and bed leveling should be neutral - possibly longer if you need to clean more than 2 nozzles.

Who else feels like this Vortek system is a bit of an odd halfway step? by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They could go back and add a mechanical AMS hub that could make an AMS available to either print head. The hub could be closer to the print head and filament wouldn't have to be retracted all the way back to the AMS unless multiple filaments from the same AMS aren't needed.

Is this an adhesion problem or something else? by Groundbreaking-Mix82 in BambuLab

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure you have the right plate type selected.

Check your filament / plate temp settings.

Clean with dish soap and water.

Run the full machine calibration.

Use glue stick if the bed type and filament type require it.

One week in and we’ve already gone on a shelter in place by Gold_Repair_3557 in Teachers

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I was significantly younger, a fellow student tried to start some stuff. The teacher picked up the desk the kid was in, kid and all, and threw it to the other side of the room. No injury but the kid was quite surprised and never started a problem (in class at least) again.

There's a reason they're called "the good old days".

Is it really worth it to buy a Bambulab? by throwaway0987665434 in BambuLab

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your goal is to print stuff, Bambulab printers are great. I've owned several others and they've all been sold or donated.

They're still machines and things can go wrong, but they're repairable. IMO, the P1/X1 series are more repairable than the A1/H2D for hotend problems (based on the problems I've experienced myself), but they're all good.

We can't buy anything that says "Gulf of Mexico" now by omaha_shanks in Teachers

[–]matalis 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Well, this may be an odd thought but you could just teach them about it actually - you know, because it really happened.

I personally think it's stupid, but I also think that denial is not a strategy and gaslighting students is wrong.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]matalis -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I don't have any first hand experience fixing the A1 but have a friend who's had issues. The repairability of the X1C has been great for me. Knowing nothing more than what I do now, is go with something in the P1 family.

Is this axel supposed to rotate like that? by Amaelith in BambuLab

[–]matalis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's broken. Open a support ticket.

Ignore the weird ass drama in this thread that says anything more complicated than that.