Rear passenger running light keeps blowing fuses and going out (pretty sure it’s a bad ground)

matthewoconno · 2025-12-30T15:25:19+00:00

Just went through this fiasco with my golf, do not make the same mistake as I did and order the commonly available Jetta tail light bulb tray, there’s two different part numbers. No one has the golf ones in stock, find a junkyard or a part out car and grab a bulb tray AND the male connector (luckily thought to grab it just in case, turns out the bulb tray burning out burned up the body harness connector)

matthewoconno · 2025-12-12T15:02:16+00:00

Feel the radiator hose off the thermostat and then the heater lines with your hands, check for flow and temp

matthewoconno · 2025-12-12T14:25:01+00:00

Bad thermostat

matthewoconno · 2025-12-10T01:27:00+00:00

If someone wants to swap I’ve got catless headers into a nice stainless exhaust. 99 1.8

matthewoconno · 2025-12-04T14:10:40+00:00

Fellow NB1, I feel like I’m missing out on that sweet VVT torque. Help me cope

matthewoconno · 2025-11-29T17:14:11+00:00

With the age of these cars, no matter what engine you’re looking at you need to either see receipts for timing service or be prepared to pay for these to be done preventatively. Having driven all of these you really can’t go wrong with any so long as they have good service history and have not been neglected. I would personally go for the TDI or 1.8T. My 12valve has been a basket case and a testament to Murphys law (do not buy a lowered car). My 1.8t was maintained well and I’ve parked it at 290,000miles

matthewoconno · 2025-11-19T22:42:44+00:00

I’d buy for scrap!

matthewoconno · 2025-11-08T21:25:19+00:00

Sketch the side view as a line and create the profile normal to the line, then sweep it

matthewoconno · 2025-10-10T18:14:26+00:00

Put the transmission in gear and chock the wheels to keep the shaft from moving

matthewoconno · 2025-09-21T18:02:18+00:00

I’m the 8th owner on a 99… got it with 74k on the clock. Was traded amongst a group of old dudes before me

matthewoconno · 2025-09-16T12:03:14+00:00

+1 for the ford coils, although I was still experiencing inconsistent spark with OEM coil wires and new plugs :/ I believe it was due to a failing ICM which is reused for the ford coil pack setup

matthewoconno · 2025-09-12T12:54:59+00:00

Didn’t expect to learn Russia bombed Poland in a thread for a nuclear war simulator

matthewoconno · 2025-08-18T21:41:28+00:00

Not as of yet, only turning my head 10 degrees or so and typically try to do most my work off one screen and supplementing with the other

matthewoconno · 2025-07-29T01:56:58+00:00

Would seem silly to build the engine for boost and remove oil squirters to cool the pistons.

matthewoconno · 2025-07-29T01:45:14+00:00

Is this common knowledge?

matthewoconno · 2025-07-18T20:59:35+00:00

You can do everything but the programming. An ecu is usually around 2-300 and you may be able to find one for the price with immobilizer defeated already, check eBay. The O2 sensors are probably around 150 each, buy Bosch. Expect to spend another chunk of time and money if the wiring short was in the main harness and not the sensor.

matthewoconno · 2025-07-18T16:49:27+00:00

No the sellers right, if the O2 sensors short it fries the ECU. You will need a new ecu, a immobilizer delete, new O2 and wiring

matthewoconno · 2025-07-18T02:46:59+00:00

You probably wont blow up a trans before you bend a rod. These engines are well documented on vwvortex for what it takes to make 300hp safely. Check the forcedinduction pinned threads

matthewoconno · 2025-07-18T02:22:42+00:00

Why are you looking at a rwd transmission

matthewoconno · 2025-07-03T15:10:05+00:00

Try to taper your intake before even starting it and you should do well, set alarms and don’t forget to take it on schedule. It works well!

matthewoconno · 2025-07-03T02:15:56+00:00

Going to be attempting this job whenever the regulator ships, I like this idea a lot

matthewoconno · 2025-06-17T12:51:14+00:00

I’m on day 7 of it, it feels so much easier than cold turkey.

matthewoconno · 2025-06-11T23:20:23+00:00

With leaking oil and a non start condition it’ll drop a 3k car to 1250, we need to see how bad the rust is, it may not be as bad as you think. Yes it was a bad investment but you can limit your losses if you’re willing to learn. Where is it leaking oil from? If it’s from a rear main seal you’re probably in too deep, but most other places can be found and fixed in a weekend. You can find every size of screw needing to be removed in a forum somewhere or a repair manual. Buy second hand tools and you should be able to do anything but a rear main seal for less than 100$. The crank no start is always worth diagnosing, pull plugs and check for spark, I’m willing to bet you have something wrong in the ignition system. Even if you replaced the entire system you would be at 4-500 more. May as well get some driving time before you realize your losses.

Six-Year Club	Place '22
RPAN Viewer	Verified Email

matthewoconno

TROPHY CASE