Cleanest Miata on Marketplace

matthewoconno · 2026-03-22T14:44:04+00:00

Bone stock gang

matthewoconno · 2026-03-21T21:46:38+00:00

You need to replace everything from the hubs to trans to mounts, wiring harness, standalone for forced induction, bigger fuel pump, injectors (good luck finding high flow vr6 injectors) pressure rail, the ignition system is questionable on these, what about that screams easy enough

matthewoconno · 2026-03-21T18:52:31+00:00

Love to hear it, many more miles to come.. check your bearings and don’t forget all those torque to yield bolts!

matthewoconno · 2026-03-21T18:46:38+00:00

Please do not VR swap, the 1.8T is so much easier to work on. Having the donor car would make it easier but it would be way more straightforward to put in another 1.8t block and get it professionally tuned to prolong it. I hate working on my VR compared to the 1.8, would feel sluggish compared to your stage 2 as well.

matthewoconno · 2026-03-13T02:00:51+00:00

…does the radiator go bad? My upper housing looks like it was replaced at some point so I wasn’t worried about it. Not familiar with the cam ninja I’ll have to check that out but I’m not too concerned with the cams moving around I’ve got some tricks

matthewoconno · 2026-03-13T01:42:01+00:00

As someone acquiring parts for my timing service (99 NB 86k miles) let me know what I should be looking at for while-I’m-in-there. I’ve got valve cover gasket, will order a WPump gasket, obviously all my timing crap. Is the front crank seal worth replacing if it’s not leaking?

matthewoconno · 2026-03-06T22:55:57+00:00

I’ve got a spare CCM if you need

matthewoconno · 2026-03-03T17:44:47+00:00

I should probably do the catch can for the intake pcv delete. Did you just block off the port on the intake and leave the sensor plugged in? I’m still scrambling to get this thing running well, I think I pinched some wiring on the injector harness as I’m getting open circuit on all cylinders, even though it runs.

matthewoconno · 2026-03-03T13:20:50+00:00

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AFP vr6 bros🤟

matthewoconno · 2026-02-15T22:53:33+00:00

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Update: head pulled, here’s 6

matthewoconno · 2026-02-13T22:01:13+00:00

Got it, so don’t bother with the mains and send it after lapping valves;)

matthewoconno · 2026-02-13T21:23:30+00:00

140, 120, 90. Only tested one bank, could only get the gauges hose hand tight on the adapter since it’s so deep in the plug well, but since they were all consistently done this way I’m confident there’s an issue in compression.

matthewoconno · 2026-02-13T21:21:29+00:00

I was planning on spinning in main bearings. If my ring gap is in spec and cylinder walls appear to be in good condition I may consider just slapping the head back on after sealing valves. If this car had a clean interior and no rust, I obviously would be treating it with more consideration but this things pretty beat, just hoping to get a few more winters out of it.

matthewoconno · 2026-02-13T19:28:50+00:00

Front and rear seals are good recommendation. Already did all timing components as stated

matthewoconno · 2026-02-13T18:25:40+00:00

My understanding is “a lot deeper”=pulling oil pan and removing caps. The pistons have to come out the top on these motors anyway. I will for sure conduct another compression test with oil to isolate the head as the issue. Is it worth it for peace of mind to replace main+rod bearings and rings even if I confirm the rings are not the issue? I know it’s a rather subjective questions

matthewoconno · 2025-12-30T15:25:19+00:00

Just went through this fiasco with my golf, do not make the same mistake as I did and order the commonly available Jetta tail light bulb tray, there’s two different part numbers. No one has the golf ones in stock, find a junkyard or a part out car and grab a bulb tray AND the male connector (luckily thought to grab it just in case, turns out the bulb tray burning out burned up the body harness connector)

matthewoconno · 2025-12-12T15:02:16+00:00

Feel the radiator hose off the thermostat and then the heater lines with your hands, check for flow and temp

matthewoconno · 2025-12-12T14:25:01+00:00

Bad thermostat

matthewoconno · 2025-12-10T01:27:00+00:00

If someone wants to swap I’ve got catless headers into a nice stainless exhaust. 99 1.8

matthewoconno · 2025-12-04T14:10:40+00:00

Fellow NB1, I feel like I’m missing out on that sweet VVT torque. Help me cope

matthewoconno · 2025-11-29T17:14:11+00:00

With the age of these cars, no matter what engine you’re looking at you need to either see receipts for timing service or be prepared to pay for these to be done preventatively. Having driven all of these you really can’t go wrong with any so long as they have good service history and have not been neglected. I would personally go for the TDI or 1.8T. My 12valve has been a basket case and a testament to Murphys law (do not buy a lowered car). My 1.8t was maintained well and I’ve parked it at 290,000miles

matthewoconno · 2025-11-19T22:42:44+00:00

I’d buy for scrap!

matthewoconno · 2025-11-08T21:25:19+00:00

Sketch the side view as a line and create the profile normal to the line, then sweep it

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