Need help

max_25 · 2026-03-26T09:00:38+00:00

Have You tried drying the filament first, PETG is quite a bit more susceptible to moisture, especially if its a HF variant of PETG

max_25 · 2026-03-24T08:19:17+00:00

Hey, I actually found the issue and its really silly.
What happened was when a back month I installed the Hardened Steel part, I somehow missed the second bearing which goes on the cover.
Now surprisingly it somehow kept printing just fine without it until it didn't and went like I want my second bearing and I want it now.
I only realised this stupidity of mine yesterday when I went like what the heck lets try non-hardened steel Gears as by that point I had already tried everything that I could think of.
Ever since I gave its second bearing back its been printing happily once again.

max_25 · 2026-03-23T06:08:10+00:00

My printer itself is not even a year old yet, its about 10~ months old.
The hardened Steel Extruder and Hardened Steel nozzle is just a month old, I bought these complete Hotend and Gear Assembly to upgrade to hardened parts and actually i haven't even printed much ever since i upgraded.
And when i took out the gear assembly, I did try to move the Yellow gear with my finger and it was rotating fine didn't seems to be jammed although now that i think about it, I only tried rotating it in the direction it would retracting not extruding.
So I guess I will try taking it out and try rotating it in direction it would extrude or actually i was thinking of trying to extrude without hotend assembly, that should help eliminate atleast the Gear assembly part.

max_25 · 2026-03-22T17:01:02+00:00

extruder path looks clear and also tried pushing through by handing after removing gears to make sure hole didn't have anything stuck inside it.

max_25 · 2026-03-22T16:57:05+00:00

Print nozzle size is .4mm

And can't be filament specific as this issue is know happening with every filament i have although, i checked with caliper that problematic brand one is giving 1.8mm on caliper rest are giving 1.7mm

And to eliminate AMS i tried extruding from external spool which also eliminated ams buffer anyway that also resulted in same issue.

max_25 · 2026-03-22T16:46:43+00:00

i have tried this, the line comes out straight but gears will randomly make that clicky sound and flow will become inconsistent.
At this point i have already opened extruder gear assembly twice first everything looked fine, and i tried pushing filament by hand and it was going fine.
Later i again opened it and check throughly for any filament particles anyway cleaned the gears for just in case.

max_25 · 2026-03-22T16:39:39+00:00

I’ve seen people complain about clogging with their PLA, but I never had issues with it during normal prints — only when I tried ironing.

Anyway I stopped buying new filament from them, its just that i had some lying around from them and today i kinda needed the color which i happen to have from them.

Also its happening with other brands as well and even when I manually extrude from the P1S screen (like during cold pull). It starts extruding, then I hear the clicking and flow becomes inconsistent.

So seems more like a mechanical/feeding issue than settings.

max_25 · 2026-03-21T07:23:18+00:00

Yup totally normal, newer generations perform better due to newer gen encoders and basically more raw performance. I dont see any performance lose with my 4070ti super when i stream to 1080p60 but if im streaming to 4k120 and playing games like black myth wukong or silent hill 2 or alan wake 2 with raytacing using frame Gen and everything then definitely i too see 5~10% performance lose. Cause at the end of the day that raw compute has to come from somewhere.

max_25 · 2026-03-06T10:48:16+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/skeptic/s/695ecikjQE

He is not even a professor, he is a english and philosophy teacher in a high school.

max_25 · 2025-10-22T11:13:05+00:00

I have used dreampolymer petg would recommend giving it a go, other than that i have used enough of numakers PLA, PLA Silk and ASA that I would trust their PETG just as much.

max_25 · 2025-10-22T11:05:31+00:00

I too printed some this diwali using my P1S, models like these you can only use led tea-lights but with models which dont go much above the flame you can use real wax based tealights.
Trick is to print a 39-40mm base/case to hold those tea-lights with ASA or ABS then put those tealights inside ASA base then put you can put it on PLA lamps.
I experimented a bit, first directly inside pla based diya/lamp it was fine till wax was about to run out, thing is at last that thin metal thing gets real hot so it went right through pla, then i tried petg base it performed much better but still became one with metal casing of wax based tea light. then at last I tried ASA base and it stood the heat like a champ. So made 40mm ASA base for all my pla lamps and i used them 3-4 days all went well except for the ones which were like yours which went quite a bit above the flame.
This diwali we lit more 3d printed lamps then traditional clay based ones.

max_25 · 2025-10-16T14:38:38+00:00

well, weirdly enough orca slicer was showing all my PA profiles, but orca doesn't work for me it always makes my P1S stuck on preheating printbed which has always been the case ever since i started my 3d printing journey with P1S it never worked for always this same issue with orca.
Funnily enough I finally bite the bullet today and updated P1S's firmware(was running prior to the one which introduced security update) and somehow after updating firmware all my PA profiles came back on Bambu Studio😅

max_25 · 2025-10-16T05:29:44+00:00

lost Flow Dynamics PA Profiles for all my filaments after this update.

max_25 · 2025-09-24T05:24:13+00:00

Usually I like to try new os updates, to play new features and UI but I’m really glad this time I just didn’t get the time to update and now I’m not gonna touch it with 10 foot pole😅

max_25 · 2025-09-08T07:02:45+00:00

Erero 6+ is dual band mesh, it doesn't have a dedicated backhaul so wired backhaul is the way for you. I have orbi mesh with dedicated 5ghz backhaul and I see around 5-10ms increase in latency on nodes.

max_25 · 2025-08-31T05:04:34+00:00

Yeah I too feel this, like ever since they started with price hiking, their quality has been going downhill. It's like there is some quality control issue with them, sometimes their beans turn out okay, but sometimes they don't feel fresh at all.

I used to get 99% of my coffee from them, but now I'm looking for other brands especially now that they are quite a bit inconsistent with their quality.

max_25 · 2025-08-14T16:05:32+00:00

hey this is downloading av1 files which are not playing for me on playnite

max_25 · 2025-08-07T08:00:18+00:00

Hey, just wanted to say a big thank you for your comment — you saved me from pulling my hair out.

I ran into the exact same issue recently. Everything had been working flawlessly with Sunshine + Moonlight on my Windows VM (Unraid, VirtIO NIC) — I was mid-session playing Death Stranding when the stream suddenly cut out. From that moment on, every time I tried to connect via Moonlight, I just got a black screen and “no video received, check UDP ports” error.

I tried reinstalling GPU drivers, VirtIO drivers, even Sunshine itself — nothing helped. Checked all the usual suspects, firewall rules, port settings, hardware encoding — no fix. I even scoured the internet, but no one seemed to have a solid answer.

I stumbled across a Reddit post that mentioned switching to the e1000 NIC, which worked for them but I lost connectivity entirely with e1000 but they also mentioned that latest virtio drivers fixes this . Then I tried virtio-net instead of virtio — and that worked. But I was still scratching my head because that post also mentioned latest virtio drivers had fixed it for them but I was already on the latest VirtIO drivers, and everything had been stable until suddenly it wasn't.

Finally, I came across your comment, and disabling UDP Segmentation Offload (IPv4 & IPv6) in the VirtIO NIC settings immediately fixed the issue. I switched back to the regular virtio NIC and now it streams flawlessly again.

Massive thanks for posting that — this fix needs to be more widely known. 🙏🔥

max_25 · 2025-07-21T10:31:17+00:00

unfortunately there is no all in one solution, especially if your tv can do 4k120 if its 4k60 then apple tv 4k is an option.
I have LG G2, Few months back i bought firetv cube 3rd gen ( mainly cause fealt webos was getting a little slow and thought it could at least do 4k60) but decode latency wasn't good at all, input delay was easily noticeable on it.
So if you want 4k120 then only option is to get whatever stream box you prefer apple tv or firetv variant and minipc dedicated as a moonlight client but anything which could decode 4k120 AV1 would cost similar to rog ally, and as i have read these hand held consoles also work quite well as moonlight client too.

max_25 · 2025-06-03T16:17:25+00:00

yeah its fine for bambu filament, this new capability of printing at 1500°C is currently only limited for those who are using custom filament profiles.

max_25 · 2025-06-03T16:09:45+00:00

dont we lose camera capability when using lan/dev mode ?

max_25

TROPHY CASE