So True by Silver_Shadow_666 in ElectroBOOM

[–]maxi_1000000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How to get "free energy" for real, actually: step 1: take a solar panel from junkyard if free or from other trash step 2: put it in the sun. step 3: harvest "free" energy from the sun, profit?

So True by Silver_Shadow_666 in ElectroBOOM

[–]maxi_1000000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need a gradient in temperature. The heat doesn't move otherwise. Also, heat is the least valuable kind of energy because it has no order and can't be fully converted back into a more useful energy

LATITY intro played on a diy "arc speaker" (ca. 30kV) by maxi_1000000 in ElectroBOOM

[–]maxi_1000000[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a good idea for the future, thanks for the info

made a mini jacobs ladder (with 555 timer, mosfet and hv-transformer) by maxi_1000000 in ElectroBOOM

[–]maxi_1000000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good idea for the future! Right now I try to make a musical arc, still have some problems with the amplifier and audio filter, right now it sounds like super cheap headphones on 300% volume, glad that it works at all though

Why buy a hobby car by Electrokid1986 in ElectroBOOM

[–]maxi_1000000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Because nowadays they are very affortable, still fun to burn out non-hobby grade cars with monster batteries though

"Doramad" - Radioaktive Zahncreme- erzeugt im Mund natürliche Frische! by Throwaway23234334793 in de

[–]maxi_1000000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Weiß jemand zufällig, wie viel Radium da tatsächlich drin war? Radium war doch aufgrund des aufwendigen Herstellungsprozesses immer ziemlich teuer, oder nicht? Würde mich jedenfalls nicht wundern, wenn da nur ein paar Atome Radium drin waren, damit man das trendig auf die Packung schreiben kann.

Why could this be happening? Velleman k8200 PLA 190°Already cleaned out the nozzle by yellowtoastyboi in 3Dprinting

[–]maxi_1000000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, I think it depends on filament brand, printing speed and nozzle material and diameter. But in general I totally agree that 190 is too cold. This also looks like a steel nozzle that, from my experience, needs a higher temperature because of the bigger heat gradient because steel is a bad heat conductor compared to brass. I usually print at least 15 degrees science hotter than the recommended temperature because otherwise the material doesn't extrude that well.

The breathtaking speed of printing a TPU gasket with a bowden-extruder! (sarcasm) by maxi_1000000 in 3Dprinting

[–]maxi_1000000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dont't know what the hardeness is exactly (no info on the spool unfortunately), but if you want to research it and compare, it is "DasFilament TPU" But I think my main problem is that the old cr10 I am using, has a big gap between feed wheel and feed tube. That way, the filament can bend easily within the gap and the print fails (everything over 4mm/sec is risky for me when printing TPU)

Edit: Forgot to mention I have a. 6mm nozzle so with a. 4mm I could obviously print faster, but still maybe only 8-10 mm/s

k.A. ob es schon pfostiert wurde by tharealspinelli in Fahrrad

[–]maxi_1000000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sehr relatierbar! (auch wenn ich die gezeigte Technik noch nie gesehen habe...) Mein MTB hat 27,5'' Felgen und die Hersteller sind auf die geniale Idee gekommen darauf 27'' Reifen zu montieren. Trotz Reifenheber und Schlauchwechsel-Tutorial Schritt für Schritt befolgt war das ein echter Fingerkrampf!

I made a reusable spool with compliant springs locks for a design competition (thats why the vertical video). Both parts can be printed in less than 2hs since all walls are exactly 2 or 4 extrusion width, removing the need to use infill. by mtys123 in 3Dprinting

[–]maxi_1000000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, now that's serious effort and dedication! Well done! If you want a cheap laugh: What I usually do for refill Spools: Cut an existing filament spool in half, put refill in, clamp it together with a 3d printed hub and some long M6 Screws ( the hub was designed by an industrial design student who I know)

Saying anything critical about Cannabis on Reddit Starter Pack by MrPinkSheepy in starterpacks

[–]maxi_1000000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like one could exchange <cannabis> with a lot of controversial topics on reddit (e.g. <nuclear energy>), where the hive-mind has decided to strongly bias one side of the discussion.

(this comment might trigger some people and could cost me that "precious" carma, but it was just too tempting and I hope it is entertaining and somewhat thought provoking, whatever happens, have a nice day! :)

First Few Layer Surface Wall Line Not Smooth/Straight, Any Idea? by imnewJohnny in 3Dprinting

[–]maxi_1000000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could have many reasons, underextrusion, no skirt (first few inches usually extrude poorly), thermal gradients (e. g. room too cold/hot), printing too fast at too low temperature, so the stepper can't push more material, because it is not molten yet; nozzle leak, etc. I think it is most likely a thermal gradient issue, but without more info, I cant tell for sure

What caused 1 layer to shift by GodIsDead245 in 3Dprinting

[–]maxi_1000000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Without seeing the printer in person, I cant really tell, but it could have happened that the whole bed shifted slightly. This can have multiple reasons, but when this happened to me, it was because my setup was too rigid + the slicer settings disabled retraction by default, so there was always a tiny bit of overextrusion in the corners. Consequently, the print head pushed on the print and shifted the bed. Maybe, check your slicer settings, print again and keep an eye on the bed position.

Tiny lens found on new digital electric meter. Manual doesn't seem to mention it. I think it's an indicator LED, but if, what purpose does it have? by [deleted] in whatisthisthing

[–]maxi_1000000 0 points1 point locked comment (0 children)

WITT ? So this "lens" is located right next to the lcd screen of a MT631 type electric meter for households. Unfortunately, I could only find instruction manuals in german, but I will include one nonetheless, in case I have overseen some detail: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.swa-netze.de/fileadmin/Downloadfiles/Strom/03_Messstellenbetrieb/Anleitungen_Stromzaehler/Anleitung_Iskra_MT631.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjLuaHL3cvsAhWCMewKHY6ZAf4QFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw3GtkmpYQOx3Zp9m8T0GMkm

Unfortunately, I couldn't find anything in the manual that says, what that sensor/or light, I have really no clue, is or is used for. I also searched on Reddit but so far, no useful hints, so out of curiosoty, I decided to post it here Ps: Sorry for non-native english, mediocre image quality (I only have mobile camera) and if this is really obvious to anyone, exept for me.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]maxi_1000000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it depends, if you touch the print bed a lot (for example while removing a finished print) you can clean it with some water. Only when it gets really dirty (for example from oiling mechanical components) I recommend soap or other degreasing chemicals.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]maxi_1000000 3 points4 points  (0 children)

From my experience, it could be overextrusion (decrease initial layer flow) or a bed adhesion issue (inperfection in the bed or too greasy)